HORTICULTURIST'S 
RULE -BOOK 


LIBRARY       • 

OF    THE 

UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA. 
Class 


THE   HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK 


ffiartren=Craft  Series 

THE  HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK 
PLANT-BREEDING 


THE  HORTICULTURISTS 

RULE-BOOK 


A  COMPENDIUM  OF  USEFUL 
INFORMATION  FOR 


Fruit-Growers,    Truck-Gardeners, 
Florists,  and  Others 


BY 

L.  H.   BAILEY 


NEW  AND   REVISED  EDITION 
x^^vX  B  H  A  R  Y^^ 

f      ^   OF  THE  \ 

f  UNIVERSITY   I 

V  o^  y 

\4^Hjro^^ 

WctD  ^|otk 
THE   MACMILLAN    COMPANY 

LONDON:  MACMILLAN  &  CO.,  LTD. 
1899 

AH  rights  reserved 


COPYRIGHT,  1895, 
BY  L.   H.  BAILEY. 

Set  up  and  electrotyped  May,  1895.      Reprinted  February 
1896;  May,  1897;  August,  1898;  August,  1899. 


Norfaooti 

J.  S.  Gushing  &  Co.  -  Berwick  &  Smith 
Norwood  Mass.  U.S.A. 


PREFACE  TO  THE  THIRD  EDITION, 


THE  first  edition  of  this  manual  was  published  late 
in  1889,  and  the  second  early  in  1892,  both  by  the 
Rural  Publishing  Company.  When  the  first  edition 
was  compiled,  the  modern  or  current  methods  of 
dealing  with  insect  and  fungous  pests  upon  large 
and  commercial  plantations  were  in  their  first  experi- 
mental stage.  The  volume,  therefore,  recorded  the 
inexact  knowledge  of  the  time.  It  is  only  within 
the  last  two  years  that  the  methods  of  meeting  these 
troubles  have  come  to  be  generally  accepted  by  horti- 
culturists, and  that  experimenters  have  felt  that  they 
could  give  confident  advice  respecting  the  many  mix- 
tures, appliances,  and  operations  which  have  been 
recommended  in  all  quarters.  It  is  time,  therefore, 
that  a  third  and  complete  edition  of  this  handbook 
should  be  issued,  to  record  and  advise  those  practices 
which  have  been  approved  by  experiment  and  experi- 
ence. The  contents  of  the  volume  have  been  gleaned 
from  many  sources,  and  whilst  the  compiler  cannot 
assume  the  responsibility  of  the  value  of  the  many 
recipes  and  recommendations,  he  has  exercised  everv 
care  to  select  only  those  which  he  considers  to  be 

101734 


VI  PREFACE. 

reliable.  At  the  same  time,  the  book  has  been  thor- 
oughly renovated  in  all  departments,  and  it  has  been 
much  extended  to  meet  the  needs  of  the  many  inquir- 
ies which  are  born  of  the  recent  teaching  and  experi- 
menting in  rural  affairs.  A  chapter  has  been  added 
upon  greenhouse  work  and  heating,  and  another  upon 
the  current  literature  of  American  horticulture.  In  its 
completed  form,  therefore,  it  is  hoped  that  the  volume 
will  serve  to  codify  and  epitomize  the  best  part  of  the 
scattered  and  disconnected  horticultural  advice  and 
practices  of  the  time. 

L.  H.  BAILEY. 
CORNELL  UNIVERSITY, 
ITHACA,  N.Y.,  March  30,  1895. 


PREFACE  TO  THE  FOURTH  EDITION. 

ALTHOUGH  the  third  edition  was  given  to  the  public 
only  last  May,  a  fourth  edition  is  now  called  for  by 
the  publishers.  I  have  made  various  corrections  and 
explanations  in  the  text,  and  have  added  paragraphs 
upon  yields  of  leading  seed-crops,  the  customs  regula- 
tions, methods  of  preserving  posts  in  vineyards  and 
other  places,  some  figures  of  grape  packing,  a  state- 
ment of  the  pollination  of  grapes,  and  a  scheme  for 
the  classification  of  horticultural  industries;  and  the 
index  has  been  extended  until  it  now  comprises  about 
two  thousand  entries. 

L.  H.   BAILEY. 

January  1,  1896. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 
INSECTICIDES       .         .        .        .    .    . 


CHAPTER  II. 
INJURIOUS  INSECTS,  WITH  REMEDIES  AND  PREVENTIVES  .      17 

CHAPTER  III. 

FUNGICIDES,  FOR  PLANT-DISEASES    .        .        .     L-\       .      46 

CHAPTER  IV. 
PLANT-DISEASES,  WITH  PREVENTIVES  AND  REMEDIES       .      52 

CHAPTER  V. 

INJURIES  FROM  MICE,  RABBITS,  SQUIRRELS,  AND  BIRDS, 

WITH  PREVENTIVES  AND  REMEDIES    .         .        .         .       77 

CHAPTER  VI. 
LAWNS.     WEEDS  AND  Moss       .      "-.        .        .        ,  82 


vii 


Vlll  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER   VII. 

PAGE 

WAXES  FOR  GRAFTING  AND  FOR  WOUNDS        ...       86 

CHAPTER  VIII. 
CEMENTS,  MORTARS,  PAINTS,  AND  GLUES         -,        .         .       90 

CHAPTER   IX. 
SEED-TABLES      .         .        .        .        .        .         .         .        .98 

CHAPTER  X. 
PLANTING-TABLES       ........     108 

CHAPTER  XI. 
MATURITIES,  YIELDS,  AND  MULTIPLICATION     .        .        .     123 

CHAPTER  XII. 
COMPUTATION  TABLES        .         .        .        .        .        .         .     129 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

GREENHOUSE    AND   WINDOW-GARDEN    WORK   AND    ESTI- 
MATES .        ....         ,        *        ,         .         .     154 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

METHODS  OF  KEEPING  AND  STORING  FRUITS  AND  VEGE- 
TABLES.    MARKET  DATES 168 

CHAPTER   XV. 

COLLECTING  AND  PRESERVING  SPECIMENS  FOR  CABINETS 

OR  EXHIBITION.     PERFUMERY.     LABELS.     WOOD  180 


CONTENTS.  IX 

CHAPTER   XVI. 

PAGE 

RULES         .        .        .        .  '-'•."  \   .        .        .  ;     .        •     193 

CHAPTER  XVH. 

POSTAL  AND  IMPOST  REGULATIONS    .         .    .    .  '.[ '     .    .     .     215 

CHAPTER   XVIII. 
THE  WEATHER .        .     220 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

LITERATURE        . ;     ..        .     229 

CHAPTER  XX. 

NAMES,  HISTORIES,  AND  CLASSIFICATION  .        ...         .     241 

CHAPTER  XXI. 

ELEMENTS,  SYMBOLS,  AND  ANALYSES        .     'V       .         .     259 

CHAPTER   XXII. 
GLOSSARY  .        .        .        .        .        .        .        *     ^7»-       .     277 

INDEX      .        .        .        .  293 


OF 

UNIVERSITY 

/-'s- 


HORTICULTURIST'S  KULE-BOOK, 


CHAPTER   I. 

INSECTICIDES. 

THE  results  obtained  from  the  use  of  any  insecticide 
or  fungicide  depend  upon  the  operator.  Timeliness, 
thoroughness,  and  persistence  are  the  watchwords  of 
success.  It  is  easier  to  keep  an  enemy  away  than 
to  drive  him  away.  The  worst  foes  are  often  the 
smallest  ones ;  and  the  injury  is  often  done  before 
they  are  detected.  Be  ready,  and  begin  early. 

Insecticides  are  of  three  general  types,  —  liquid 
spray,  powder,  and  fumes  or  vapor. 

Arsenic. — Known  to  chemists  as  arsenious  acid,  or  white  oxide 
of  arsenic.  It  is  considered  an  unsafe  insecticide,  as  its 
color  allows  it  to  be  mistaken  for  other  substances ;  but 
in  its  various  compounds,  it  forms  our  best  insecticides. 
From  1  to  2  grains,  or  less,  usually  prove  fatal  to  an  adult ; 
30  grains  will  usually  kill  a  horse,  10  grains  a  cow;  and 
1  grain,  or  less,  is  usually  fatal  to  a  dog.  In  case  of 
poisoning,  while  awaiting  the  arrival  of  a  physician,  give 
emetics,  and,  after  free  vomiting,  give  milk  and  eggs. 
Sugar  and  magnesia  in  milk  is  useful. 

B  1 


White  arsenic,  when  applied  in  solution  to  foliage,  is 
injurious.  The  poison  can  be  used  with  lime,  however, 
if  treated  as  follows:  Boil  1:  pound  of  arsenic  and  2 
pounds  of  lime  in  3  or  4  gallons  of  water,  for  half  an 
hour.  The  sediment,  an  arsenite  of  lime,  can  then  be 
used  in  about  100  gallons  of  water,  with  good  results. 
Arsenites.  —  A  term  popularly  used  for  compounds  of  arsenic. 
The  leading  arsenites  used  in  destroying  insects  are  Paris 
green  and  London  purple. 

ARSENATE  OF  LEAD.  —  This  compound  of  arsenic  has  re- 
cently come  into  use,  and  it  promises  to  be  of  much  value. 
It  was  first  suggested  by  F.  C.  Moulton,  in  1892,  and  has 
since  been  tested  in  the  extermination  of  the  Gipsy-moth 
in  Massachusetts.  When  used  at  the  rate  of  2  pounds  in 
150  gallons  of  water,  it  was  effective  in  destroying  the 
larvae  of  the  moths,  while  the  foliage  of  apple  trees  was 
'uninjured  when  the  poison  was  used  at  the  rate  of  24 
pounds  in  150  gallons  of  water.  The  arsenate  of  lead 
may  be  prepared  by  dissolving  11  ounces  of  the  acetate 
of  lead  in  one  vessel,  and  4  ounces  of  arsenate  of  soda  in 
another.  When  these  two  solutions  are  mixed,  there  is 
formed  a  fine  white  powder,  which  is  sufficient  for  150 
gallons  of  water. 

LONDON  PURPLE.  —  An  arsenite  of  lime,  obtained  as  a  by- 
product in  the  manufacture  of  aniline  dyes.  The  compo- 
sition is  variable.  The  amount  of  arsenic  varies  from  30 
to  over  50  per  cent.  The  two  following  analyses  show 
its  composition:  1.  Arsenic,  43.65  per  cent;  rose  aniline, 
12.46 ;  lime,  21.82 ;  insoluble  residue,  14.57  ;  iron  oxide, 
1.16  ;  and  water,  2.27.  2.  Arsenic,  55.35  per  cent ;  lime, 
26.23 ;  sulphuric  acid,  0.22 ;  carbonic  acid,  0.27 ;  moisture, 
5.29.  It  is  a  finer  powder  than  Paris  green,  and  therefore 
remains  longer  in  suspension  in  water.  It  is  used  in  the 
same  manner  as  Paris  green,  but  is  sometimes  found  to  be 
more  caustic  on  foliage.  This  injury  is  due  to  the  presence 
of  much  soluble  arsenic ;  but  it  can  be  averted  by  the  use 
of  lime,  as  advised  under  Paris  green. 


INSECTICIDES.  3 

PARIS  GREEN.  —  An  aceto-arsenite  of  copper.  When  pure, 
it  contains  about  58  per  cent  of  arsenic ;  but  the  commer- 
cial article  usually  contains  less  —  often  as  little  as  30  per 
cent,  and  rarely  none.  The  following  may  be  considered 
an  average  analysis :  Arsenic,  47.68  per  cent ;  copper  oxide, 
27.47  ;  sulphuric  acid,  7.16  ;  moisture,  1.35  ;  insoluble  resi- 
due, 2.34.  It  is  applied  in  either  a  wet  or  dry  condition ; 
but  in  any  case,  it  must  be  much  diluted.  For  making  a 
dry  mixture,  plaster,  flour,  air-slaked  lime,  road  dust,  or 
sifted  wood  ashes  may  be  used.  The  strength  of  the  mix- 
ture required  depends  upon  the  plants  and  insects  to  which 
it  is  to  be  applied.  The  strongest  dry  mixture  now  recom- 
mended is  1  part  of  poison  to  50  of  the  diluent ;  but  if  the 
mixing  is  very  thoroughly  done,  1  part  to  100,  or  even  200, 
is  sufficient. 

Paris  green  is  practically  insoluble  in  water.  When  mixed 
with  water,  the  mixture  must  be  kept  in  a  constant  state 
of  agitation,  else  the  poison  will  settle,  and  the  liquid  from 
the  bottom  of  the  cask  will  be  so  strong  as  to  do  serious 
damage,  while  that  from  the  top  will  be  useless.  For 
potatoes,  apple  trees,  and  most  species  of  shade  trees,  1 
pound  of  poison  to  200  or  250  gallons  of  water  is  a  good 
mixture.  For  the  stone  fruits,  1  pound  to  300,  or  even 
350,  gallons  of  water  is  a  strong  enough  mixture.  Peach 
trees  are  very  apt  to  be  injured  by  arsenites  ;  and  for  them 
the  mixture  should  be  no  stronger  than  1  pound  to  300 
gallons.  In  all  cases,  the  liquid  should  be  applied  with 
force,  in  a  very  fine  spray.  At  some  seasons  of  the  year, 
foliage  is  more  liable  to  injury  than  at  others.  The  addi- 
tion of  a  little  lime  (twice  the  bulk  of  lime  as  of  Paris 
green)  to  the  mixture,  will  prevent  any  caustic  injury 
upon  the  foliage. 

Spraying  with  Paris  green  or  London  purple  does  not 
endanger  stock  pastured  in  the  orchard. 

COMBINATIONS  OF  ARSENITES  AND  FUNGICIDES.  —  The  arse- 
nites may  be  used  in  connection  with  some  fungicides,  and 
both  insects  and  plant  diseases  in  this  manner  may  be 


4  HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

combated  at  the  same  time.  The  arsenites  may  be  added 
to  Bordeaux  mixture  in  the  same  proportion  as  if  the 
Bordeaux  were  plain  water.  The  arsenites  are  also  some- 
times added  to  soap  and  other  washes. 

The  addition  of  lime  to  Paris  green  and  London  purple 
mixtures  greatly  lessens  injury  to  foliage,  and,  as  a  conse- 
quence, they  can  be  applied  several  times  stronger  than 
ordinarily  used,  if  they  are  combined  with  the  Bordeaux 
mixture.  The  free  lime  in  the  mixture  combines  with  the 
soluble  arsenic,  which  is  the  material  that  injures  the 
foliage,  and  the  combination  is  thus  made  quite  harmless. 

London  purple  and  Paris  green  should  rarely  be  applied 
with  the  ammoniacal  carbonate  of  copper,  as  the  ammonia 
in  the  latter  dissolves  the  arsenic,  making  the  combination 
caustic.  The  addition  of  sulphate  of  copper  to  the  arsenites 
also  increases  injury. 

Bait. — 1.  Paris  green  or  London  purple,  1  ounce;  chopped 
grass  or  leaves,  8  ounces ;  and  enough  syrup  to  allow  the 
mass  to  be  worked  into  balls,  which  are  spread  about  the 
garden.  For  wire- worm  beetles,  crickets,  katydids,  etc. 

2.  Bran,  40  pounds  ;  middlings,  15  pounds ;  arsenic,  20 
pounds ;  cheap  syrup,  2  gallons.  Mix  in  soft  water  to  a 
paste.  For  grasshoppers  and  cut- worms. 

Benzine.  —  Sometimes  used  to  kill  weevils  and  other  insects  in 
dry  peas,  corn,  and  grain.  Less  useful  than  bisulphide  of 
carbon. 

Bisulphide  of  carbon.  —  A  thin  liquid  which  volatilizes  at  a 
very  low  temperature,  the  vapor  being  very  destructive,  to 
animal  life.  It  is  exceedingly  inflammable,  and  should 
never  be  used  near  a  lamp  or  fire.  It  is  used  for  many 
root-insects.  It  is  poured  into  a  hole,  which  is  immediately 
closed  up,  causing  the  fumes  to  permeate  the  soil  in  all 
directions.  In  loose  soils  it  is  very  destructive  to  insects. 
It  is  also  inserted  in  tight  receptacles  to  kill  such  insects  as 
pea-weevil  and  museum  pests,  where  a  teaspoonful  is  suffi- 
cient for  a  receptacle  holding  2  or  3  gallons.  It  may  also  be 
used  for  mites  and  mealy-bugs  on  live  plants.  For  this 


INSECTICIDES.  5 

purpose,  the  plant  is  covered  with  a  tight  receptacle,  and  1 
fluid  dram  (60  drops  or  minims)  is  sufficient  for  a  space 
equal  to  about  6  to  8  cubic  feet. 

Bisulphide  of  carbon  and  kerosene.  —  1  part  of  bisulphide 
of  carbon  mixed  with  from  5  to  20  parts  of  kerosene  will 
produce  vapor  sufficient  to  kill  many  grain-eating  insects. 

Burning. — Larvae  which  live  or  feed  in  webs,  like  the  tent- 
caterpillar  and  fall  web-worm,  may  be  burned  with  a  torch. 
The  lamp  or  torch  used  in  campaign  parades  finds  its  most 
efficient  use  here. 

Carbolic  acid  and  soap  mixtures.  —  1  pint  crude  carbolic 
acid;  1  quart  soft  soap;  2  gallons  hot  water.  Mix  thoroughly. 
This  wash  is  used  for  borers,  and  for  scale-insects.  Apply 
with  a  cloth  or  soft  broom.  Use  only  on  dormant  wood. 

Carbolic  acid  and  water.  —  Add  1  part  of  acid  to  from  50  to 
100  parts  of  water.  Tor  root-insects. 

Carbolic  acid  emulsion.  —  1  pound  hard  soap  or  1  quart  soft 
soap  dissolved  in  1  gallon  boiling  water,  and  add  1  pint  of 
crude  carbolic  acid,  and  emulsify  by  agitation.  One  part 
is  used  in  30  parts  of  water  for  cabbage-maggots  and  other 
root-insects. 

Carbolized  plaster.  —  Stir  1  pint  of  crude  carbolic  acid  into 
50  pounds  of  land  plaster.  Or,  quicklime  may  be  slaked 
with  the  acid.  The  powder  is  thrown  over  the  tree  when 
the  dew  is  on,  as  a  remedy  for  the  curculio.  It  should  be 
applied  profusely.  This  is  used  by  some  peach  and  plum 
growers  for  the  curculio,  with  apparent  success,  but  it  is  of 
doubtful  efficiency. 

Carbon  bisulphide.  —  See  BISULPHIDE  OP  CARBON,  p.  4. 

Cement  wash.  —  5  tablespoonfuls  hydraulic  cement  to  1 
gallon  sour  milk  or  buttermilk.  Mix,  and  apply  at  once 
to  base  of  peach  trees  as  remedy  for  borer  (N.  Carolina 
Experiment  Station). 

Coal-tar  fumes.  —  Burn  rags  coated  with  coal-tar  attached  to 
a  pole.  Remedy  for  aphis,  but  little  used. 

Copperas  (sulphate  of  iron) .  —  1  ounce  of  copperas  to  a  pail 
of  water  is  sometimes  effective  in  destroying  root-insects. 


6  HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

Little  used  except  when  forming  a  saturated  solution,  to 
which  may  be  added  about  1  %  of  sulphuric  acid.  This  is 
a  standard  remedy  against  grape  anthracnose  in  Europe, 
in  winter. 

Corrosive  sublimate  wash.  — Dissolve  1  ounce  corrosive  sub- 
limate in  1  pint  alcohol,  stir  in  10  gallons  soft  soap,  and 
add  water  to  make  a  stiff  paint.  Apply  to  base  of  trees 
with  brush  for  borers  and  woolly  root-louse.  Recom- 
mended by  N.  Carolina  Experiment  Station. 

Fumigation. — Fumigating  or  "Smoking"  or  "Smudging" 
in  greenhouses  is  performed  by  the  slow  burning  of  tobacco 
stems.  Best  results  are  obtained  when  a  sheet-iron  vessel 
made  for  the  purpose  is  used,  having  holes  in  the  bottom  to 
supply  draft.  A  quart  of  live  coals  is  placed  in  the  bottom 
of  the  vessel,  and  about  a  pailful  of  tobacco  stems  is  laid 
on  them.  The  stems  should  not  blaze,  but  burn  with  a 
slow  smudge.  If  they  are  slightly  damp,  better  results  are 
obtained.  Some  plants  are  injured  by  a  very  heavy  smoke, 
and  in  order  to  avoid  this  injury,  and  also  to  more  effectually 
destroy  the  insects,  it  is  better  to  smoke  rather  lightly  and 
often.  It  is  always  well  to  smoke  on  two  consecutive  days, 
for  the  insects  which  persist  through  the  first  treatment, 
being  weak,  will  be  killed  by  the  second.  If  the  plants  are 
wet,  the  smoke  is  more  likely  to  scorch  them.  The  smudge 
often  injures  flowers,  as  those  of  roses  and  chrysanthe- 
mums. In  order  to  avoid  this  injury,  the  flowers  should  be 
covered  with  paper  bags.  For  aphids  (green-fly  or  plant- 
lice).  See  TOBACCO. 

Gas  (Hydrocyanic),  for  scale-insects.  —  3  oz.  water,  1  fl. 
oz.  sulphuric  acid.  1  oz.  60  per  cent  cyanide  potassium. 
Gas  arising  (very  poisonous)  is  sufficient  for  covered  space 
of  150  cu.  ft.  For  dormant  trees.  Expose  1  hour. 

Glue  and  arsenites  wash.  —  Common  glue  1  pound,  soaked 
a  few  hours  in  cold  water  and  then  dissolved  in  \  gallon  of 
hot  water ;  add  1  ounce  Paris  green,  stir  well,  and  add  hot 
water  till  the  mixture  measures  2  gallons.  For  preventing 
the  attacks  of  borers.  Recommended  in  various  writings, 


INSECTICIDES.  7 

but  to  be  used  with  great  caution,  if  at  all.  If  applied  in 
the  growing  season,  or  more  than  once,  especially  upon 
young  trees,  it  is  apt  to  kill  the  bark.  If  the  Paris  green 
contains  soluble  arsenic,  much  harm  may  be  expected  to 
result. 

Hellebore.  —  See  WHITE  HELLEBORE. 

Hot  water.  —  Submerge  affected  plants  or  branches  in  water 
at  a  temperature  of  about  125°.  For  aphis.  It  will  also 
kill  rose-bugs  at  a  temperature  of  125°-135°. 

Kerosene.  —  In  pure  state,  kerosene  has  been  used  as  an 
insecticide  upon  many  plants,  with  various  results.  It 
does  not  appear  to  injure  the  coleus,  grape,  peach,  and  pea, 
but  does  injure  the  potato,  tomato,  and  gooseberry  and 
other  plants.  It  is  not  to  be  recommended  unless  in  the 
form  of  emulsion,  however,  or  much  diluted. 

Under  the  name  of  paraffine  oil  it  is  used  in  England  as 
follows :  When  plants  are  infested  with  lice,  wet  them  at 
intervals  of  three  or  four  days  for  about  three  weeks  with 
diluted  paraffine  in  the  proportion  of  a  wineglassful  to 
watering-can  of  water. 

Kerosene  emulsion.  —  1.  Cook's  emulsion.  Soft  soap  1 
quart,  or  hard  soap — preferably  whale-oil  soap  —  £  pound  ; 
2  quarts  hot  water ;  1  pint  kerosene.  Stir  until  all  are 
permanently  mixed,  and  then  dilute  with  water  to  one-half 
or  one-third  strength.  A  good  way  to  make  the  emulsion 
permanent  is  to  pump  the  mixture  back  into  the  receptacle 
several  times.  Makes  a  permanent  emulsion  with  either 
hard  or  soft  water. 

2.  The  Hubbard-Kiley,   or  standard    emulsion.      Hard 
soap,  £  pound ;  boiling  soft  water,  1  gallon  ;  kerosene,  2 
gallons.     Churn  or  pump  the  ingredients  vigorously  15  or 
20  minutes.     Dilute  10  or  more  times  when  using. 

Two  ounces  balsam  of  fir  added  to  the  above  appears  to 
increase  its  efficiency,  and.  it  causes  it  to  adhere  to  foliage 
better.  \  pint  spirits  of  turpentine  is  sometimes  added. 

3.  Pyre  thro- kerosene  emulsion.    In  the  place  of  pure 
kerosene  in  the  above  emulsions,  use  a  kerosene  decoction 


8  HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

of  pyrethrum,  made  by  filtering  1  gallon  of  kerosene  through 
2^-  pounds  of  pyrethrum.    Valuable. 

Kerosene  and  condensed  milk  emulsion.  —  Kerosene,  2 
gallons,  or  64  per  cent  of  the  entire  mixture;  condensed 
milk,  4  cans  of  f  pint,  or  12|  per  cent ;  water,  twice  the 
quantity  of  milk,  or  25  per  cent. 

Kerosene  and  milk  emulsion.  —  Sour  milk,  1  gallon ;  kero- 
sene oil,  2  gallons ;  warm  to  a  blood  heat  and  mix  thor- 
oughly. Dilute  10  times  with  water.  For  scale-insects  and 
plant-lice. 

Kerosene  and  water  emulsion.  —  Goff  atomizes  kerosene  and 
water  as  follows :  To  the  Woodason  atomizing  bellows  a 
small  cup  is  attached  directly  in  front  of  the  fount  for  hold- 
ing the  liquid  to  be  atomized.  From  this  cup  a  very  slender 
copper  tube  is  passed  through  the  side  of  the  fount  where  it 
enters  the  larger  tube  that  conducts  the  liquid  from  the 
fount  to  the  mouth  of  the  bellows.  It  then  curves  upward, 
passing  through  the  centre  of  this  tube  as  far  as  the  mouth 
of  the  bellows,  where  both  come  to  an  end  at  the  same 
point.  Kerosene  is  then  placed  in  the  added  cup,  and  water 
in  the  fount.  On  working  the  bellows  the  liquids  are 
atomized  together.  The  proportion  of  kerosene  emitted 
will  depend  upon  the  relative  diameters  of  the  two  tubes, 
but  it  may  also  be  regulated  by  the  relative  depths  of  the 
liquid  in  their  respective  founts.  A  better  way  would  be 
to  use  but  a  single  fount  and  to  divide  this  into  two  parts, 
one  for  kerosene  and  the  other  for  water.  This  would  per- 
mit the  mouth  of  the  bellows  to  be  brought  nearer  to  the 
plant  to  be  atomized. 

The  value  of  kerosene  applied  in  this  manner  is  not  yet 
fully  determined. 

Lead,  arsenate  of.  —  See  under  ARSENITES. 

Lime  spray.  —  Slake  |-  peck  or  a  peck  of  lime  in  a  barrel  of 
water,  straining  the  lime  as  it  enters  the  barrel  to  prevent 
its  clogging  the  pump.  Apply  in  a  spray  until  the  tree 
appears  as  if  whitewashed.  For  rose-chafer. 

London  purple.  —  See  under  ARSENITES. 


INSECTICIDES.  9 

Lye  wash.  —  1  pound  concentrated  lye,  or  potash  \\  pounds, 
to  3  gallons  water.  On  an  average,  1  bushel  of  good  wood 
ashes  contains  about  4  pounds  of  potash.  For  scale-insects. 
Common  home-made  lye  is  often  diluted  with  water  and 
applied  to  apple  branches  with  a  brush  as  a  remedy  for  the 
bark-louse.  It  is  also  recommended  as  a  remedy  for  the 
cabbage-worm,  being  sprinkled  on  the  cabbages  with  a 
watering-pot.  If  concentrated  lye  is  used,  a  pound  should 
be  diluted  with  a  barrel  of  water. 

Lye  and  sulphur  wash.  —  Concentrated  lye,  1  pound,  or  pot- 
ash, 1£  pounds  ;  sulphur,  \\  pounds  ;  water,  3  gallons.  For 
scale-insects. 

Lye  and  whale-oil  soap  wash.  —  (a)  Dissolve  1  pound  of 
concentrated  lye  in  one  gallon  of  water;  add  to  this  1| 
pounds  of  sulphur  and  boil  until  sulphur  is  dissolved.  (6) 
Dissolve  14  pounds  of  the  best  whale-oil  soap  in  54  gallons 
of  water;  add  solution  a  to  &  and  boil  for  a  short  time. 
For  scale;  used  as  a  summer  wash  when  the  first  brood  is 
hatching.  Use  at  130°  Fahrenheit,  thoroughly  washing  the 
trunks  and  larger  branches  and  spraying  the  smaller 
branches  and  twigs. 

Oil  and  alkali  wash.  —  1.  \\  gallons  of  whale  oil,  25  pounds 
sal-soda ;  dissolve  the  sal -soda  in  25  gallons  of  water  and 
heat  it  to  boiling.  When  boiling,  pour  the  whale  oil  in. 
Apply  the  wash  when  cooled  to  130°  Fahrenheit. 

2.  1  pound  of  concentrated  lye  (American)  of  80  per 
cent ;  or  f  of  a  pound  of  Greenbank  powdered  caustic 
soda,  of  98  per  cent ;  or  1  pound  of  solid  caustic  soda,  of 
76  per  cent ;  or  1£  pounds  of  solid  caustic  soda  of  63  per 
cent.  These  varying  proportions  are  given  because  the 
caustic  sodas  in  the  markets  are  of  different  strengths  and 
purity.  Whichever  one  is  chosen,  add  to  each  amount 
named  \  pound  of  commercial  potash  and  dissolve  in  6 
gallons  of  water. 

Both  washes  are  for  scale- insects  on  deciduous  trees  in 
winter.  (  Calif  ornian.) 

Paraffine  oil.  —  Essentially  the  same  as  KEROSENE,  which  see. 


10  HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

Paris  green.  —  See  under  ARSENITES. 

Persian  insect  powder.  —  See  PYRETHRUM. 

Plaster  and  kerosene.  —  2  quarts  of  plaster  or  wood  ashes, 
1  tablespoonful  of  kerosene.  Mix,  and  rub  with  the  hands 
until  the  oil  is  well  incorporated.  Bone-flour  may  be  sub- 
stituted for  the  plaster.  Repellent ;  used  mostly  for  flea- 
beetles  and  striped  squash-beetles. 

Plaster  and  turpentine.  —  2  quarts  common  land  plaster,  1 
or  2  tablespoonf  uls  of  turpentine,  mixed  and  used  as  in  the 
preceding. 

Potash. — Kainit,  1  ounce  to  a  pint  of  water,  applied  in  a 
spray,  is  recommended  for  aphis  and  various  leaf-eating 
larvae.  Muriate  of  potash,  applied  in  the  same  strength,  is 
as  good,  but  is  more  likely  to  injure  the  plants.  Rarely 
used. 

Potassic  fertilizers  have  been  recommended  as  insecti- 
cides against  various  ground  insects. 

Promoting  growth. — Any  course  that  tends  to  promote  vigor 
will  be  helpful  in  enabling  plants  to  withstand  the  attacks 
of  plant-lice  and  other  insects. 

Fyrethrum.  —  A  very  fine  and  light  brown  powder  made 
from  the  flower-heads  of  species  of  pyrethrum.  It  is 
scarcely  injurious  to  man.  Three  brands  are  upon  the 
market : 

PERSIAN  INSECT-POWDER,  made  from  the  heads  of  Pyrethrum 
roseum,  a  species  also  cultivated  as  an  ornamental  plant. 
The  plant  is  native  to  the  Caucasus  region. 
DALMATIAN  INSECT-POWDER,  made  from  Pyrethrum  cinerar- 

icefolium. 

BUHACH,  made  in  California  from  cultivated  plants  of   P. 
cineraricefolium. 

When  fresh  and  pure,  all  these  brands  appear  to  be 
equally  valuable,  but  the  home-grown  product  is  usually 
considered  most  reliable.  Pyrethrum  soon  loses  its  value 
when  exposed  to  the  air.  It  is  used  in  various  ways : 

1.  In  solution  in  water,  1  ounce  to  3  gallons. 

2.  Dry,  without  dilution.     In  this  form  it  is  excellent  for 


INSECTICIDES.  11 

thrips  and  lice  on  roses  and  other  bushes.     Apply  when 
the  bush  is  wet.     Useful  for  aphis  on  house  plants. 

3.  Dry,  diluted  with  flour  or  any  light  and  fine  powder. 
The  poison  may  be  used  in  the  proportion  of  1  part  to  from 
6  to  30  of  the  diluent. 

4.  In  fumigation.     It  may  be  scattered  directly  upon 
coals,  or  made  into  small  balls  by  wetting  and  moulding 
with  the  hands  and  then  set  upon  coals.     This  is  a  desir- 
able way  of  dealing  with  mosquitoes  and  flies. 

5.  In  alcohol.     (1)  Put  1  part  of  pyrethrum  (buhach) 
and  4  parts  alcohol,  by  weight,  in  any  tight  vessel.     Shake 
occasionally,    and   after   8    days  filter.      Apply    with   an 
atomizer.      Excellent  for    greenhouse    pests.     For    some 
plants  it  needs  to  be  diluted  a  little.     (2)  Dissolve  about  4 
ounces  of  powder  in  1  gill  of  alcohol,  and  add  12  gallons 
of  water. 

6.  Decoction.     Whole  flower-heads  are  treated  to  boiling 
water,  and  the  liquid  is  covered  to  prevent  evaporation. 
Boiling  the  liquid  destroys  its  value. 

7.  Water  extract.    Pour  2  quarts  hot  water  through 
about  a  half-pound  of  pyrethrum,  held  in  a  coarse  bag,  and 
then  add  cold  water  enough  to  make  2  gallons,  and  it  is 
well  to  stir  in  the  powder  itself.     For  aphis  and  cabbage- 
worms.     It  will  keep  but  a  few  days.     Or  the  extract  can 
be  made  as  follows :  Make  a  paste  of  2  tablespoonfuls  of 
pyrethrum  by  adding  water.     Stir  this  into  2  gallons  of 
water  and  apply  with  a  fine  nozzle.     This  is  recommended 
for  the  rose-chafer. 

8.  Pyrethro-kerosene  emulsion.      See  under  KEROSENE 
EMULSION. 

Good  insect-powder  can  be  made  from  Pyrethrum 
roseiim,  and  probably  also  from  P.  cineraricefolium,  which 
are  grown  in  the  home  garden. 

Quassia. — Boil  4  ounces  of  quassia  chips  10  minutes  in  a  gal- 
lon of  water  ;  strain  off  the  chips  and  add  4  ounces  of  soft 
soap,  which  should  be  stirred  as  it  cools.  Apply  with 
syringe  or  brush.  Ten  or  fifteen  minutes  after  it  has  been 


12  HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

applied,  give  the  plant  a  good  syringing  with  clean  water. 
For  plant-lice.  Practically  out  of  use  in  the  United  States. 

Resin  and  fish-oil  soap. — 20  pounds  of  resin,  1  gallon  of 
fish-oil,  8  pounds  of  caustic  soda,  and  enough  water  to 
make  100  gallons.  The  caustic  soda  is  first  dissolved  in 
about  16  gallons  of  water,  after  which  £  of  the  solution  is 
taken  out  and  the  resin  added  to  that  remaining  in  the 
kettle.  When  all  the  resin  is  dissolved,  the  fish-oil  is 
added  to  it,  and  the  whole  thoroughly  stirred,  after  which 
the  balance  of  the  caustic  soda  solution  is  added  very 
slowly  and  boiled  for  about  an  hour,  or  until  it  will  readily 
mix  with  water.  Use  an  iron  kettle.  For  scale-insects  on 
orange  and  olive.  (Calif ornian.) 

Resin  and  petroleum  soap. — Water,  100  gallons;  resin, 
17|  pounds;  soda  (60  per  cent),  7  pounds;  fish-oil,  3 
pounds  ;  petroleum,  2  pounds.  The  resin,  soda,  and  fish- 
oil,  with  20  gallons  water,  are  boiled  together  for  four 
hours,  when  the  kerosene  is  added  and  the  whole  is 
thoroughly  stirred.  While  hot,  place  in  a  barrel  and  add 
the  remaining  80  gallons  water,  and  emulsify  by  thoroughly 
stirring.  For  scale  on  citrous  trees. 

Resin  soap.  —  Ingredients  for  one  barrel  of  50  gallons :  10 
pounds  caustic  soda,  98  per  cent ;  10  pounds  potash ;  40 
pounds  tallow;  40  pounds  resin.  First. — Dissolve  the 
potash  and  soda  in  10  gallons  of  water.  When  dissolved, 
place  the  whole  amount  in  the  barrel  to  be  used.  Second.  — 
Dissolve  the  tallow  and  resin  together.  When  dissolved, 
add  the  same  to  the  potash  and  soda  in  the  barrel,  and  stir 
well  for  five  minutes  or  so.  Leave  standing  for  about  two 
hours ;  then  fill  up  with  water,  stirring  well  as  every 
bucket  of  water  goes  in.  Use  the  following  day,  1  pound 
to  the  gallon  of  water.  Apply  warm.  For  scale  on  de- 
ciduous trees  in  summer.  (Californian.) 

Resin,  soda,  and  tallow  soap. —Resin,  2  pounds;  caustic 
soda,  1  pound  ;  tallow,  1  pound.  Mix  resin  and  soda,  boil 
about  30  minutes,  and  then  add  tallow.  For  use,  add  2 
gallons  water  to  a  pint.  Used  in  spray  for  scale. 


INSECTICIDES.  13 

Rotation  of  crops  is  one  of  the  readiest  means  of  overcoming 
or  escaping  insect  attacks.  Even  small-fruit  plantations 
can  be  rotated  to  advantage.  (See  Chap.  III.) 

Salt  and  lime  wash.  —  25  pounds  of  lime  (unslaked),  20 
pounds  of  sulphur,  15  pounds  of  salt,  60  gallons  of  water. 
To  mix  the  above,  take  10  pounds  of  lime,  20  pounds  of 
sulphur,  and  20  gallons  of  water.  Boil  until  the  sulphur  is 
thoroughly  dissolved.  Take  the  remainder  — 15  pounds  of 
lime  and  15  pounds  of  salt- slack  —  and  add  enough  of 
water  to  make  the  whole  60  gallons.  Strain,  and  spray  on 
the  trees  when  milk-warm  or  somewhat  warmer.  This 
can  be  applied  when  the  foliage  is  off  the  tree,  and  will 
have  no  injurious  effects  whatever  on  the  fruit-buds  or  the 
tree  itself.  For  scale  on  deciduous  trees  in  winter.  (Cali- 
fornian.) 

Snuff.  —  Snuff  may  be  used  to  kill  plant-lice  upon  house-plants, 
and  in  other  places  where  fumigation  or  spraying  cannot 
be  employed.  Blow  it  lightly  on  the  plants.  See  SULPHUR 
AND  SNUFF. 

Soap  and  arsenites.  —  Soap,  4  pounds,  which  is  dissolved  in 
1  gallon  of  hot  water ;  add  4  ounces  of  London  purple  or 
Paris  green,  mix,  and  dilute  with  50  gallons  of  hot  water. 
For  various  leaf -eating  insects,  but  likely  to  injure  tender 
foliage,  when  the  arsenite  contains  much  soluble  arsenic, 
unless  lime  is  added. 

Soap  and  lime  wash.  —  5  pounds  potash,  5  pounds  lard 
stirred  in  5  gallons  of  boiling  water;  1  peck  quicklime 
slaked  in  5  gallons  of  boiling  water,  and  mixed  while  hot 
with  the  potash  and  lard  mixture.  Dilute  by  adding  2 
gallons  of  boiling  water  for  each  gallon  of  the  mixture.  It 
will  keep  indefinitely.  Recommended  for  preventing  the 
attacks  of  borers,  but,  like  all  washes  for  this  purpose,  of 
doubtful  utility. 

Soap  and  soda  wash.  —  To  soft  soap  add  a  strong  solution  of 
common  washing-soda,  until  the  mixture  becomes  a  thick 
paint.  Used  for  bark-lice  and  other  scale-insects  on  the 
dormant  wood. 


14  HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

Soap  and  tobacco.  —  Dissolve  8  pounds  of  the  best  soft  soap 
in  12  gallons  of  rain-water,  and  when  cold  add  1  gallon  of 
strong  tobacco  liquor.  For  plant-lice. 

Soap,  fish-oil.  —  Good  potash  lye,  1  pound  ;  fish-oil,  3  pints  ; 
soft  water,  3  gallons.  Dissolve  the  lye  in  the  water, 
and  when  brought  to  a  boil,  add  the  oil.  Boil  about  two 
hours.  When  cold,  it  can  be  cut  into  cakes.  For  use,  put 
the  soap  in  enough  hot  water  to  dissolve  or  cut  it,  and  then 
add  6  to  10  gallons  water  to  a  pound  of  soap.  For  aphis. 

Soda  and  aloes. — Dissolve  2  pounds  of  washing-soda  and  1 
ounce  of  bitter  Barbadoes  aloes,  and  when  cold  add  1 
gallon  of  water.  Dip  the  plants  into  the  solution,  and  lay 
them  on  their  sides  for  a  short  time,  and  the  insects  will 
drop  off.  Syringe  the  plants  with  clean,  tepid  water,  and 
return  to  the  house.  For  plant-lice. 

Soda  and  resin  wash.  —  Sal-soda,  3  pounds,  added  to  1  pint 
of  hot  water  ;  add  slowly  4  pounds  of  resin,  and  gradually 
add  2  pints  of  hot  water.  Dilute  to  5  gallons.  For  scale- 
insects  ;  also  recommended  for  curculio. 

Soda  and  whale-oil  soap  wash. — Dissolve  25  pounds  sal- 
soda  in  25  gallons  water  and  heat  to  boiling,  at  which  time 
add  \\  gallons  whale-oil  soap.  Used  as  a  winter  wash  for 
scale.  Apply  at  a  temperature  of  about  130°  Fahrenheit. 

Soda  wash.  —  Dissolve  |  pound  of  common  washing-soda  in  a 
pail  of  water.  For  scale  and  borers,  on  dormant  wood. 

Spraying,  a  term  applied  to  the  application  of  liquid  insecti- 
cides or  fungicides,  by  means  of  a  pump  or  syringe.  See 
the  various  plants  and  materials  for  explicit  directions. 
Spraying  must  be  thoroughly  and  opportunely  done,  else 
it  will  fail. 

Sulphide  of  soda  wash  (Hilgard's).  —  Dissolve  30  pounds 
of  whale-oil  soap  in  60  gallons  of  water,  by  heating  the  two 
together  thoroughly.  Then  boil  3  pounds  of  American 
concentrated  lye  with  6  pounds  of  sulphur  and  2  gallons 
of  water.  When  thoroughly  dissolved,  it  is  a  dark  brown 
liquid,  chemically  called  sulphide  of  soda.  Mix  the  two  — 
the  soap  and  the  sulphide  —  well,  and  allow  them  to  boil 


INSECTICIDES.  15 

half  an  hour.  Then  add  about  90  gallons  of  water  to  the 
mixture,  and  it  is  ready  for  use.  Apply  it  warm,  by 
means  of  a  spray-pump.  Used  warm,  its  effect  is  better 
and  less  material  is  required  than  when  cold.  For  scale 
on  deciduous  trees  in  summer.  (Californian.) 

Sulphur.  —  Fumes  of  sulphur  are  destructive  to  insects,  but 
should  be  carefully  used  or  plants  will  be  injured.  The 
sulphur  should  be  evaporated  over  an  oil-stove,  until  the 
room  is  filled  with  the  vapor.  The  sulphur  should  never 
be  burned,  as  burning  sulphur  kills  plants.  For  green- 
house use. 

Sulphur  and  snuff.  —  1  pound  of  flowers  of  sulphur,  1 
pound  of  Scotch  snuff,  1  pound  of  quicklime,  £  pound  of 
lampblack,  1  pound  of  soft  soap,  with  sufficient  water  to 
make  them  into  the  consistency  of  paint.  Wash  every 
branch,  from  the  ground  upwards,  with  a  common  paint- 
brush, before  the  blossom-buds  begin  to  swell.  For  plant- 
lice. 

Sulphur  and  whale-oil  soap  wash. — Boil  14  gallons  of  water, 
add  ^  pound  of  sulphur  and  boil  fifteen  minutes.  To 
this  add  a  pound  of  whale-oil  soap  and  boil_for  five  minutes. 
Let  stand  for  a  week.  When  wanted  for  use,  mix  1  pound 
of  the  compound  to  a  gallon  of  water,  and  apply  as  a  spray 
at  a  temperature  of  130°  Fahrenheit.  Used  for  various 
burrowing  larvae,  as  the  gooseberry  fruit-worm  and  the 
currant-borer,  as  a  repellent. 

Tar  is  sometimes  used  to  prevent  the  female  and  wingless 
canker-worm  from  ascending  trees.  The  tar  should  be 
placed  on  cotton,  or  some  material  which  will  prevent  it 
from  coming  in  contact  with  the  bark,  and  a  band  of  the 
preparation  is  then  placed  around  the  trunk.  Care  must 
be  taken  to  see  that  the  tar  does  not  injure  the  tree. 
Tarred  paper  may  be  rolled  loosely  about  trees  to  keep 
away  mice,  but  it  should  be  removed  before  warm  weather. 
It  is  sometimes  recommended  as  a  preventive  of  the  attacks 
of  borers,  but  it  very  often  injures  trees,  and  should  be  used, 
if  at  all,  with  great  caution. 


16  HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

Tobacco. — 1.  Stems,  placed  on  the  walks  and  under  the 
benches  of  greenhouses,  for  plant-lice.  Renew  it  every 
month. 

2.  Tobacco-water,  used  with  whale-oil  soap. 

3.  Dust.     See  SNUFF. 

4.  Fumes.     Burn  dampened  tobacco -stems.     See  FUMI- 
GATION. 

5.  Nicotyl.     Steep  tobacco-stems  in  water  and  evaporate 
the  water. 

6.  Tea,  or  common  decoction.     Boil  the  stems  or  dust 
thoroughly  and  strain.     Then  add  cold  water  until  the 
decoction  contains  2  gallons  of  liquid  to  1  pound  of  tobacco. 

There  are  various  commercial  preparations  of  tobacco 
for  use  in  greenhouses. 

Whale-oil  soap.  —  1  pound  whale-oil  soap  to  5  gallons  of 
water.  For  mealy-bugs  and  similar  insects.  It  will  injure 
some  tender  plants. 

White  arsenic.  —  See  ARSENIC. 

White  hellebore.  —  A  light  brown  powder  made  from  the 
roots  of  the  white  hellebore  plant  (Veratrum  album),  one 
of  the  lily  family.  It  is  applied  both  dry  and  in  water. 
In  the  dry  state,  it  is  usually  applied  without  dilution, 
although  the  addition  of  a  little  flour  will  render  it  more 
adhesive.  In  water,  1  ounce  of  the  poison  is  mixed  with  3 
gallons  ;  and  an  ounce  of  glue,  or  thin  flour  paste,  is  some- 
times added  to  make  it  adhere.  A  decoction  is  made  by 
using  boiling  water  in  the  same  proportions.  Hellebore 
soon  loses  its  strength,  and  a  fresh  article  should  always  be 
demanded.  It  is  much  less  poisonous  than  the  arsenites, 
and  should  be  used  in  place  of  them  upon  ripening  fruit. 
Used  for  various  leaf-eating  insects,  particularly  for  the 
currant-worm  and  rose-slug. 


CHAPTER    II. 

INJURIOUS  INSECTS,    WITH  REMEDIES  AND 
PREVENTIVES. 

INSECTS  are  of  two  kinds  as  respects  their  manner  of 
taking  food, — the  mandibulate  insects,  or  those  which 
chew  or  bite  their  food,  as  larvae  ("worms")  and  most 
beetles ;  and  those  which  suck  their  food,  as  the  plant- 
lice  and  true  bugs.  The  former  class  is  despatched  by 
poisons,  the  latter  by  caustic  applications,  as  kerosene 
or  soap  preparations. 

Angleworm  or  Earthworm.  — The  common  angleworm  often 
destroys  greenhouse  plants  by  its  burrowing.  It  is  some- 
times annoying  in  gardens  also. 

Remedy.  — Lime-water  applied  to  the  soil. 

Ants. — See  LAWNS. 

Aphides,  Plant-Lice  or  Green-Fly,  and  Bark-Lice. — Minute 
insects  of  various  kinds,  feeding  upon  the  tender  parts  of 
many  plants,  both  in  doors  and  out. 

Remedies.  —  Kerosene  emulsion.  Kerosene-and-water 
emulsion.  Hot  water  (about  125°).  Coal-tar  fumes. 
Pyrethrum.  Eish-oil  soap.  Tobacco-water.  Alcoholic 
and  water  extracts  of  pyrethrum.  Hughes'  fir-tree  oil. 
In  the  greenhouse,  fumigation  with  tobacco.  Knock  them 
off  with  the  hose.  In  window  gardens,  dry  pyrethrum  or 
snuff. 

Apple.     APPLE-BCCCULATRIX  (Bucculatrix  pomifoliella,  Clem- 
ens).— A  minute  yellow  or  green  larva  feeding  upon  the 
upper  surface  of  the  leaves,  causing  the  lower  surface  to 
c  17 


18 


turn  brown.  The  cocoons  are  white  and  slender  and  are 
laid  side  by  side  upon  the  under  sides  of  twigs,  where  they 
are  conspicuous  in  winter. 

Remedies.  —  Burn  cocoons  in  winter  or  apply  strong  kero- 
sene emulsion  to  them.  Arsenites  for  the  larvae  in  summer. 

AppLE-CuRCULio  (Anthonomus  quadrigibbus,  Say). — A  soft, 
white  grub,  about  half  an  inch  long,  living  in  the  fruit. 

Remedies. — Arsenites,  as  for  codlin-moth,  are  usually 
recommended.  Probably  jarring  them  off  the  tree,  as  is 
done  for  plum-curculio,  is  the  most  effective  treatment. 

APPLE  FLEA-BEETLE  (Graptodera  foliacea,  Lee.).  —  Beetle, 
one-fifth  inch  or  less  long,  feeding  upon  leaves. 
Remedy.  —  Arsenites. 

APPLE-MAGGOT  or  RAILROAD- WORM  (Trypeta  pomonella, 
Walsh). --Maggot;  infests  fall  apples  mostly,  occasionally 
attacks  winter  fruit.  It  tunnels  apples  through  and  through, 
causing  the  fruit  to  fall  to  the  earth. 

Remedies. — Immediately  destroy  all  infested  fruit,  pom- 
ace, and  apple-waste  from  the  house.  If  the  orchard  is  in 
sod,  burn  the  grass  under  the  trees  in  fall  or  spring  ;  if  in 
cultivation,  spade  or  plough  up  the  soil  under  the  trees 
in  spring.  Orchards  in  sandy  soil  and  with  a  southern 
exposure  are  most  affected. 

BARK-LOUSE  (Mytilaspis  pomorum,  Bouch6). —  Minute  in- 
sects feeding  upon  the  tender  shoots,  most  active  in  early 
spring.  Later  in  the  season  the  insect  secretes  a  scale 
under  which  it  lives.  The  old  scales  become  conspicuous 
on  the  twigs. 

Preventive.  — Plant  unaffected  trees. 
Remedies. — Spray  with  kerosene  emulsion,  carbolic  acid 
wash,  soda  wash,  or  soap-and-soda  wash,  when  shoots  start. 
Wash  limbs  in  winter  or  before  leaves  start,  with  soap-suds 
or  lye  water.     Scrape  off  lice. 

BLIGHT. — See  under  PEAR  in  Chap.  IV. 

BUD-MOTH  (Tmetocera  ocellana,  Fabr.). — A  minute  insect, 
the  larvse  destroying  the  flower-buds  of  apples,  pears, 
plums,  etc. 


INJURIOUS   INSECTS.  19 

Remedies.  —  Arsenites  applied  when  the  buds  begin  to 
open,  and  again  ten  days  later.  Burn  infested  leaves  in 
June. 

CANKER-WORM  (Paleacrita  vernata,  Peck).  —  Larva;  ua 
measuring  worm,"  an  inch  long,  dark  and  variously  striped, 
feeding  upon  the  leaves. 

Preventive.  —  Bands  smeared  with  tar  or  printer's  ink,  or 
similar  devices,  placed  about  the  trunk  of  the  tree  to  pre- 
vent the  wingless  females  from  climbing.  Tedious. 

Remedies.  —  Arsenites,  thoroughly  applied  in  spray,  are 
very  effective.  Jar  the  worms  into  straw,  and  burn  the 
straw. 

CODLIN-MOTH  (Carpocapsa  pomonella,  Linn.).  —  Larva  (off- 
spring of  a  small  grayish  moth),  three-fourths  inch  long, 
pinkish,  feeding  in  fruit ;  generally  two  broods. 

Remedies.  —  Arsenites  applied  just  after  the  blossoms 
fall  and  again  ten  days  or  two  weeks  later.  A  third  appli- 
cation is  rarely  necessary.  The  arsenites  may  be  applied 
with  Bordeaux  mixture  when  spraying  for  the  apple-scab. 
(See  Chap.  IV.)  Swine  in  the  orchard.  Cloth  band  about 
the  trunk  of  the  tree,  which  is  examined  at  intervals  of 
seven  to  nine  days  for  larvse  and  chrysalids. 
FALL  WEB- WORM  (Hyphantria  cunea,  Drury).  —  Hairy 
larva,  about  an  inch  long,  varying  from  gray  to  pale  yellow 
or  bluish  black,  feeding  upon  the  leaves  of  many  trees,  in 
tents  or  webs. 

Remedies.  —  Destroy  by  burning  the  webs,  or  removing 
them  and  crushing  the  larvse.  Spray  with  arsenites. 
FLAT-HEADED  BORER  (Chrysobothris  femorata,  Fabr.). — 
Larva  about  an  inch  long,  flesh-colored,  the  second  segment 
("head")  greatly  enlarged;  boring  under  the  bark  and 
sometimes  into  the  wood.  They  are  readily  located  in  late 
summer  or  fall  by  the  dead  and  sunken  patches  of  bark. 

Preventive.  —  Soap  and  carbolic  acid  washes  applied  early 
in  June  and  July.  Keep  trees  vigorous. 

Remedies.  —  Dig  out  the  borers  in  early  summer  and  fall. 
Encourage  woodpeckers. 


20  HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

PEAR  TWIG-BEETLE.  —  See  under  PEAR. 

PLUM-CURCULIO  (Conotrachelits  nenuphar,  Herbst.).  — 
Beetle;  punctures  the  fruit  and  causes  it  to  become  dis- 
torted. 

Remedies.  —  Arsenites.  Often  recommended  (but  of 
doubtful  efficiency)  to  plant  plum  trees  at  intervals 
throughout  the  orchard  to  attract  the  curculio,  and  fight 
the  insects  on  the  plums.  See  under  PLUM.  Jarring  onto 
sheets  is  probably  the  surest  procedure. 

RAILROAD-WORM.  —  See  APPLE-MAGGOT. 

ROOT-LOUSE,  "AMERICAN  BLIGHT"  of  England  (Schizoneura 
lanigera,  Hausm.).  —  A  minute  insect  which  causes  swell- 
ings upon  the  roots  of  the  tree,  impairing  its  vitality,  or 
killing  it.  In  another  form  the  insect  attacks  the  young 
branches.  It  is  then  conspicuous  from  its  cottony  cover- 
ing. The  treatment  for  aphis  is  useful  here. 

Remedies.  —  Hot  water.  Corrosive  sublimate  wash. 
Scalding  hot  water  may  be  poured  on  the  bare  roots  of 
trees  standing  in  the  soil,  or  nursery  stock  may  be  dipped 
in  water  having  a  temperature  of  120°  to  150°.  Kerosene 
emulsion  or  tobacco  dug  in  about  the  tree.  Infested  nursery 
trees  should  be  dipped  in  kerosene  emulsion  —  root  and  top 
—  before  they  are  set  in  the  orchard.  Mulching  about  trees 
is  said  to  bring  the  lice  nearer  the  surface. 

ROSE-BEETLE. —  See  under  ROSE.  There  is  practically  no 
remedy  for  the  rose-beetle  on  large  orchard  trees.  Ravages 
can  be  prevented,  to  a  large  extent,  by  the  lime  spray  and 
the  emulsions.  Very  heavy  applications  of  Bordeaux  mix- 
ture sometimes  act  as  a  repellent. 

ROUND-HEADED  BORERS  (Saperda  Candida,  Fabr.,  and  S.  cre- 
tata,  Newm.).  —  Larva,  an  inch  long  when  mature,  bores 
into  the  tree.  It  remains  in  the  larval  state  three  years. 

Preventive.  —  Soap  and  carbolic  acid,  and  various  other 
washes  applied  early  in  June  and  July. 

Remedies.  —  Dig  out  borers  in  the  fall.  Force  some 
caustic  material,  as  soda-wash,  into  the  burrows  by  means 
of  a  small  syringe.  Insert  a  wire  into  the  holes.  The  only 


INJURIOUS   INSECTS.  21 

safe  procedure  is  to  watch  the  trees  carefully  for  the  chips 
cast  out  by  the  borers,  and  to  examine  the  trees  fall  and 
spring,  and  dig  out  the  larvse  with  a  knife. 

TENT-CATERPILLARS  (Clisiocampa  Americana,  Harris,  and  C. 
sylvatica,  Harris).  —  Larva,  nearly  two  inches  long,  spotted 
and  striped  with  yellow,  white,  and  black  ;  feeding  upon 
the  leaves.  They  congregate  in  the  tents  at  night  and  in 
cool  weather,  and  forage  out  upon  the  branches  during  the 
day. 

Remedies. — Arsenites,  as  for  codlin-moth.  Burn  out 
nests  with  torch.  Pick  off  egg-masses  from  twigs  during 
winter  and  spring. 

TUSSOCK-MOTH   (Orgyia  leucostigma,   Sm.  and  Abb.).  —  A 
handsome  caterpillar,  an  inch  long,  bright  yellow  with  red 
markings,  -very  hairy.     Eats  the  leaves. 
Eemedy.  —  Arsenites.    Collect  frothy  egg-masses  in  fall. 

TWIG-BORER  (Amphicerus  (Bostrichus*)  bicaudatus,  Say). — 
Beetle,  three-eighths  inch  long,  cylindrical  and  dark  brown, 
boring  into  twigs  of  apple,  pear,  and  other  trees.  The 
beetle  enters  just  above  a  bud. 

Remedies.  —  Burn  the  twigs.  Catch  insects  in  mating 
season. 

TWIG-PRUNERS  (Elaphidion  parallelum,  Newm.,  and  E.vil- 
losum,  Fabr.).  —  Yellowish  white  larvse,  about  a  half  inch 
long,  boring  into  young  twigs,  causing  them  to  die  and 
break  off. 

Remedy.  —  Burn  the  twigs. 
Apricot.     PEAR  TWIG-BEETLE.  — See  under  PEAR. 

PIN-HOLE  BORER.  — See  under  PEACH. 

PLUM-CURCULIO.  —  See  under  PLUM. 

Asparagus.  ASPARAGUS-BEETLE  (Crioceris  Asparagi,  Linn.). 
—  Beetle,  less  than  one-fourth  inch  in  length,  yellow,  red, 
and  shining  black,  with  conspicuous  ornamentation,  feed- 
ing upon  the  tender  shoots.  Larva  feeds  upon  the  leaves 
and  tender  bark. 

Remedies. — Freshly  slaked  lime  dusted  on  before  the 
dew  has  disappeared  in  the  morning.  Poultry.  Draw  the 


22  HOKTICULTUBIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

hand  over  the  stalks  from  bottom  to  top,  crushing  all  the 
eggs;  repeating  two  or  three  times  during  the  season  will 
keep  them  in  check.  Arsenites,  after  the  marketing  season 
has  passed. 

Aster.  ASTER- WORM.  —  A  small  larva  boring  in  the  stem  of 
garden  asters  about  the  time  they  begin  to  flower,  causing 
the  heads  to  droop. 

All  infested  stalks  should  be  burned. 

Bean.  BE  AN- WEEVIL  or  BEAN-BUG  (Bruchus  obtectus,  Say). 
— Closely  resembles  the  pea- weevil,  which  see  for  descrip- 
tion and  remedies. 

Bag-Worm  or  Basket- Worm  (  Thyridopteryx  ephemerceformis, 
Haw.). — Larva  working  in  singular  dependent  bags,  and 
feeding  upon  many  kinds  of  trees,  both  evergreen  and  de- 
ciduous. In  winter  the  bags,  empty  or  containing  eggs, 
are  conspicuous,  hanging  from  the  branches. 

Remedies.  —  Hand-picking.     Arsenites. 
Bark-Lice.  —  See  under  APHIDES. 
Blackberry.    CANE-BORER.  —  See  under  RASPBERRY. 
ROOT  GALL-FLY.  —  See  under  RASPBERRY. 
SNOWY  CRICKET.  —  See  under  RASPBERRY. 
Blister-Beetle  (Lytta   two   or  three  species).  —  Soft-shelled, 
long-necked,  and  slim  black  or  gray  spry  beetles,  feeding 
upon  the  leaves  of  many  trees  and  garden  plants. 

Remedies.  —  Arsenites.    Jarring. 

Cabbage.  CABBAGE- WORM,  or  CABBAGE-BUTTERFLY  (Pieris 
Rapce,  Linn.).  —  Larva  an  inch  long,  green  with  yellow  and 
black  markings,  feeding  upon  the  heads  ;  two  broods. 

Remedies.  —  Pyrethrum  mixed  with,  flour,  or  in  water 
decoction.    Hot  water  (temperature  from  140°  to  160°), 
applied  forcibly  in  a  fine  spray.     Kerosene  emulsion.     Lye 
wash.     Arsenites :  1  ounce  Paris  green  or  London  purple 
to  6  pounds  flour,  applied  while  the  plant  is  wet ;  should 
not  be  used  after  the  plant  begins  to  head.     Salt  water 
sprinkled  into  the  head.    Pyrethrum,  dry  or  in  decoction. 
FLEA-BEETLE.  —  See  FLEA-BEETLE,  under  F. 
GREEN  LETTUCE- WORM.  —  See  under  LETTUCE. 


INJURIOUS   INSECTS.  23 

HARLEQUIN  CABBAGE-BUG  (Murgantia  histrionica,  Hahn). — 
Bug  about  a  half-inch  long,  gaudily  colored  with  orange 
dots  and  stripes  over  a  blue- black  ground,  feeding  upon 
cabbage  ;  two  to  six  broods. 

Eemedies.  —  Hand-picking.  Place  blocks  about  the  patch 
and  the  bugs  will  collect  under  them.  In  the  fall  make 
small  piles  of  the  rubbish  in  the  patch  and  burn  them  at 
the  approach  of  winter. 
LICE.  —  Kerosene  emulsion.  See  APHIDES. 
MAGGOT  (Phorbia  Brassicce,  Bouche).  — A  minute  white  mag- 
got, the  larva  of  a  small  fly,  eating  into  the  crown  and  roots 
of  young  cabbage  and  cauliflower,  radish,  and  turnip  plants. 
Remedies.  —  Carbolic  acid  emulsion  applied  the  day  fol- 
lowing the  transplanting  of  the  cabbage  plants,  and  repeated 
once  a  week  for  several  applications.  Remove  a  little  earth 
from  about  the  plants  and  spray  on  the  emulsion  forcibly. 
Bisulphide  of  carbon  is  generally  preferable  on  cabbages 
and  cauliflowers,  however.  Use  about  one  teaspoonful  to 
the  plant,  inserting  it  in  a  hole  in  the  soil  just  underneath, 
but  not  in  contact  with,  the  root.  Press  the  hole  together 
immediately  to  prevent  the  escape  of  the  vapor.  All  in- 
fested plants  should  be  burned. 

The  "club-root"  of  cabbage  is  not  due  to  the  maggot, 
but  to  a  fungus,  which  see  (page  55). 

Carnation.  TWITTER.  —  A  peculiar  curling  and  tying-up  of 
the  leaves  and  flower-buds  on  the  tips  of  the  stems.  Proba- 
bly due  to  various  species  of  insects,  one  of  them  a  plant- 
louse. 

Remedy.  —  Cut  off  and  burn  the  affected  part. 
Carrot.     PARSLEY-WORM.  —  See  under  PARSLEY. 
Cauliflower.     CAULIFLOWER  or  CABBAGE- WORM.  —  See  under 

CABBAGE. 

MAGGOT.  —  See  under  CABBAGE. 
Celery.     GREEN  LETTUCE- WORM.  —  See  under  LETTUCE. 

PARSLEY- WORM.  —  See  under  PARSLEY. 
Cherry.     CANKER-WORM.  —  See  under  APPLE. 
PLUM-CURCULIO.  — See  under  PLUM. 


24  HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

ROSE-BEETLE.  —  See  under  ROSE  and  APPLE. 
SLUG    (Selandria    Cerasi,    Peck).  —  Larva,    one-half    inch 
long,  blackish  and  slimy,  feeding  upon  the  leaves;   two 
broods. 

Remedies.  —  Arsenites,  for  the  second  brood  (which 
usually  appears  after  the  fruit  is  off),  and  for  the  first 
brood  if  the  trees  are  not  bearing.  Hellebore  in  water. 
Pyrethrum.  Air-slaked  lime.  Road-dust.  Catch  mature 
insects  by  jarring  trees  late  in  the  evening  or  early  in  the 
morning. 

Chestnut.  WEEVIL  (Balaninus  sp.).  —  A  grub  working  in 
chestnuts,  making  them  wormy.  The  weevil  is  a  curculio- 
like  insect. 

Preventives.  —  Destroy  wild  trees  where  the  insects 
breed.  Plant  the  most  immune  varieties. 

Remedy.  —  Gather  and  destroy  the  infested  nuts  immedi- 
ately after  they  fall. 
Chrysanthemum.       GREEN     LETTUCE-WORM.  —  See     under 

LETTUCE. 

CHRYSANTHEMUM  LEAF-MINER  (Oscinis  sp.).  — Works  upon 
the  leaves  of  the  chrysanthemum. 

Remedy.  —  Hand-picking. 

Corn.     BUD- WORM.  —  See  TOMATO  FRUIT- WORM. 
CORNSTALK-BORER   (Helotropha   atra,  Get.). —Larva,  gray 
and  striped,  boring  into  the  stalk. 

Remedies.  —  See  CUT- WORM. 

GRAIN-APHODIUS  (Aphodius  granarius,  Linn.).  —  Beetle,  one- 
eighth  inch  long,  shining  black,  feeding  on  kernels  in  the 
ground  before  they  sprout. 

Remedy.  —  Soak  kernels  in  water,  then  stir  them  in  a 
mixture  of  Paris  green,  one  part  to  twenty  parts  of  flour. 
ROOT  WEB- WORM  (Crambus  sp.).  —  Larva  feeding  in  a  web 
on  the  surface  or  just  below  it,  on  the  roots  of  corn. 

Preventive.  —  Avoid  planting  corn   on  sod  land  where 
there  is  any  suspicion  of  the  insect  having  been  at  work. 
Fall  ploughing. 
WEEVIL  or  GRAIN-BEETLE  (Silvanus  Surinamensis,  Linn.). 


INJURIOUS   INSECTS.  25 

—  Reddish-brown   beetle  about  a  tenth  of  an  inch  long, 
feeding  in  stored  corn  and  grain. 

Eemedy.  — Bisulphide  of  carbon. 

The    larva  of    the  Angoumois    Grain   Moth    (Gelechia 
cereallella,  Oliv.)  also  devours  stored  grain.    The  same 
remedy  applies. 
Cranberry.  —  CRANBERRY-APHIS  or  LOUSE. 

Remedy.  —  Flooding.     See  also  under  APHIDES. 
CRANBERRY    SAW-FLY    (Pristiphora   identidem,   Norton). — 
Larva,  less  than  one-half  inch  long,  greenish,  feeding  upon 
the  leaves  ;  two  broods. 

Remedies.  — Flooding.  Probably  hellebore  and  arsenites. 
FIRE-WORM,  CRANBERRY-WORM,  or  BLACK-HEADED  CRAN- 
BERRY-WORM (Rhopobota  vacciniana,  Packard).  —  Small 
larva,  green,  black-headed,  feeding  upon  the  shoots  and 
young  leaves,  drawing  them  together  by  silken  threads; 
two  broods. 

Remedies.  —  Flooding  for  two  or  three  days  when  the 
worms  are  small.  Arsenites.  Attract  the  moths  to  fires 
at  night. 

FRUIT- WORM  (Acrobasis  Vacdnni,  Riley). —  Small  worm 
working  in  the  fruits,  eating  out  the  insides. 

Remedy.  —  Thorough  application  of  arsenites  as  soon  as 
the  berries  are  set. 

WEEVIL  (Anthonomus  suturalis,  Lee.).  —  Beetle,  less  than 
one-fourth  inch  long  ;  cuts  off  the  flower-buds. 

Remedy.  —  Flooding. 

YELLOW-HEADED  CRANBERRY- WORM  (Teras  vacciniivorana, 
Packard).  —  Stout,  yellowish-green,  small  caterpillar,  with 
a  yellow  head,  webbing  up  the  leaves  as  it  works. 

Preventive.  —  Hold  the  water  late  on  the  bog  in  spring  to 
prevent  egg-laying. 

Remedy.  —  Flood  the  bog  24  to  36  hours  when  the  worms 
are  small. 

Cucumber.  CUCUMBER  or  PICKLE- WORM  (Endioptis  nitidalis, 
Cram.). — Larva,  about  an  inch  long,  yellowish  white, 
tinged  with  green,  boring  into  cucumbers  ;  two  broods. 


26  HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

Remedies.  —  Hand-picking  at  the  first  appearance  of  the 
caterpillars.     Destroy  infested  fruits. 
MELON-WORM.  —  See  under  MELON. 

SPOTTED  CUCUMBER-BEETLE  (Diabrotica  22-punctata,  Oliv.). 
—  Beetle,  yellowish  and  black  spotted,  about  one-fourth 
inch  long,  feeding  upon  the  leaves  and  fruit.  Sometimes 
attacks  fruit-trees,  and  the  larva  may  injure  roots  of  corn. 

Remedies.  —  Same  as  for  STRIPED  CUCUMBER-BEETLE, 
below. 

STRIPED  CUCUMBER-BEETLE  (Diabrotica  vittata,  Fabr.).— 
Beetle,  one-fourth  inch  long,  yellow  with  black  stripes, 
feeding  on  leaves.  Larva,  one-eighth  inch  long  and  size  of 
a  pin,  feeding  on  roots  ;  two  broods. 

Preventive.  —  Cheap  boxes  covered  with  thin  muslin  or 
screens  of  mosquito-netting,  placed  over  young  plants. 

Remedies. — Arsenites  in  flour.  Ashes,  lime,  plaster  or 
fine  road-dust  sprinkled  on  the  plants  every  two  or  three 
days  when  they  are  wet.  Air-slacked  lime.  Plaster  and 
kerosene.  Tobacco  powder,  applied  liberally.  Apply  rem- 
edies when  dew  is  on,  and  see  that  it  strikes  the  under 
side  of  the  leaves. 

Currant.  BORER  (Sesia  tipuliformis,  Linn.).  —  A  whitish 
larva,  boring  in  the  canes  of  currants,  and  sometimes  of 
gooseberries.  The  larva  remains  in  the  cane  over  winter. 

Remedy,  —  In  fall  and  early  spring  cut  and  burn  all 
affected  canes.  These  canes  are  distinguished  before  cut- 
ting by  lack  of  vigor,  and  by  limberness. 
CURRANT-WORM,  or  CURRANT  and  GOOSEBERRY  SAW-FLY 
(Nematus  ventricosus,  King). — Larva,  about  three-fourths 
inch  long,  yellow  green,  feeding  upon  the  leaves  of  red 
and  white  varieties  ;  two  to  four  broods. 

Remedies. — White  hellebore,  applied  early.  Arsenites 
for  the  early  brood.  Treatment  should  begin  whilst  the 
larvas  are  on  the  lowermost  leaves  of  the  bushes.  Before 
the  leaves  are  fully  grown,  the  holes  made  by  the  worms 
may  be  seen.  The  second  brood  is  best  destroyed  by  kill- 
ing the  first  "brood. 


INJURIOUS   INSECTS.  27 

CURRANT  MEASURING  or  SPAN-WORM  (Eufitchia  [Abraxis] 
ribearia,  Fitch.). — Larva  somewhat  over  an  inch  long,  with 
stripes  and  dotted  with  yellow  or  black,  feeding  upon  the 
leaves. 

Remedies.  —  Hellebore,  applied  stronger  than  for  currant- 
worm.  Arsenites,  if  the  bushes  are  not  bearing.  Hand- 
picking. 

FOUR-STRIPED  PLANT-BUG.  —  See  under  F. 
GREEN  LEAF-HOPPER    (Empoa  albopicta,  Forbes).  —  Small 
insect  working  upon  the  under  surface  of  currant  and 
gooseberry  leaves.    Also  upon  the  apple. 

Remedies.  —  Pyrethrum.  Kerosene  emulsion.  Tobacco- 
dust. 

Cut-Worm.  —  Various  species  of  Agrotis  and  related  genera. 
Soft  brown  or  gray  worms,  of  various  kinds,  feeding  upon 
the  roots,  crown,  or  even  the  tops  of  plants. 

Preventives  and  Remedies. — Encircle  the  stem  of  the 
plant  with  heavy  paper  or  tin.  Arsenites  sprinkled  upon 
small  bunches  of  fresh  grass  or  clover,  which  are  scattered 
at  short  intervals  about  the  garden  towards  evening. 
They  will  often  collect  under  boards  or  blocks.  Arsenites 
mixed  with  shorts,  and  placed  about  the  plants.  Make  two 
or  three  deep  holes  by  the  side  of  the  plant  with  a  pointed 
stick  ;  the  worms  will  fall  in  and  cannot  escape.  Dig  them 
out.  Plough  infested  land  in  fall  to  give  birds  a  chance 
to  find  the  worms.  Kainit  or  muriate  of  potash  applied 
liberally  as  a  fertilizer  has  been  advised. 

Cut-Worm,  Climbing.  —  Several  species.  The  worms  climb 
small  trees  of  various  kinds  at  night  and  eat  out  the 
buds. 

Preventive.  —  Strip  of  cotton  batting  tied  about  the  tree 
by  its  lower  edge  and  the  top  then  rolled  down  like  a 
boot-leg.  The  worms  cannot  climb  over  the  cotton.  Use 
baits  (see  page  4) . 

Remedies.  —  Arsenites.     Hellebore. 
Dahlia.     FOUR-STRIPED  PLANT-BUG.  —  See  under  F. 
GREEN  LETTUCE-WORM.  —  See  under  LETTFCB. 


28  HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

Egg-Plant.     POTATO-BEETLE.  —  See  under  POTATO. 

Elm.     CANKER-WORM.  —  See  under  APPLE. 

ELM  LEAF-BEETLE  (Galleruca  xanthomelcena,  Schr.). — 
A  small  beetle,  imported  from  Europe,  which  causes 
great  devastation  in  some  of  the  eastern  States  by  eating 
the  green  matter  from  elm  leaves,  causing  the  tree  to  ap- 
pear as  if  scorched. 

Remedy.  —  Arsenites  with  kerosene  emulsion. 
WILLOW- WORM.  —  See  under  WILLOW. 

Endive.     GREEN  LETTUCE-WORM. —  See  under  LETTUCE. 

Flea-Beetle  (Phyllotreta  vittata,  Fabr.  ;  Haltica  striolata, 
Harris).  —  A  minute  black-spotted  beetle,  feeding  upon 
many  plants,  as  turnip,  cabbage,  radish,  mustard,  potato, 
strawberry,  and  stocks.  It  jumps  upon  being  disturbed. 
Closely  related  species  attack  various  plants.  Very  de- 
structive to  plants  which  are  just  appearing  above  the  sur- 
face. 

Remedies.  —  There  are  no  reliable  preventives  or 
remedies.  Arsenites,  applied  dry  while  the  dew  is  on,  are 
good.  Land  plaster,  lime,  ashes,  and  tobacco-dust,  applied 
in  the  same  manner,  are  more  or  less  effective.  Tobacco 
decoction  used  very  liberally.  Wood  ashes  applied  liber- 
ally. Sometimes  ashes  injure  the  plants.  Kerosene 
emulsion  thrown  with  great  force  against  the  plants. 
Calomel,  mixed  with  flour  or  ashes.  A  heavy  application 
of  Bordeaux  mixture  and  soap  is  one  of  the  best  repellents. 
The  same  remedies  apply  to  other  flea-beetles. 

Four-striped  Plant-Bug  (Pcecilocapsus  lineatus,  Fabr.).  —  A 
bright  yellow,  black-striped  bug  about  one-third  of  an  inch 
long,  puncturing  the  young  leaves  and  shoots  of  many 
plants. 

Remedies.  —  Jarring  at  any  time  of  day  into  a  dish  of 
dilute  kerosene.  Kerosene  emulsion  (2)  (diluted  five 
times)  when  the  bugs  are  young,  in  their  nymphal  stage. 
Cut  off  and  burn  the  tips  of  the  growing  shoots  in  early 
spring  to  destroy  the  eggs. 

Galls.  —  See  KOOT-GALL  (page  41). 


INJURIOUS   INSECTS.  29 

Gipsy-Moth  (Ocneria  dispar,  Linn.).  —  Larva,  nearly  two 
inches  long  when  mature,  very  hairy,  nearly  black,  with  a 
yellow  stripe  along  back  and  sides.  Devours  many  kinds  of 
foliage.  Confined  to  eastern  Massachusetts,  where  it  was 
introduced  from  Europe  about  1869.  It  is  feared  that  it 
will  become  a  serious  pest. 

Remedy.  —  Spray  with  arsenites  (particularly  arsenate  of 
lead)  as  soon  as  the  caterpillars  hatch  in  the  spring. 
Gooseberry.     CURRANT-BORER.  —  See  under  CURRANT. 
CURRANT  MEASURING  or  SPAN-WORM.  —  See  under  CURRANT. 
FOUR-STRIPED  PLANT-BUG.  —  See  under  F. 
GOOSEBERRY  or  CURRANT- WORM.  —  See  under  CURRANT. 
GOOSEBERRY  FRUIT- WORM   (Dakruma  convolutella,  Hubn.). 
—  Larva,  about  three-fourths  inch  long,  greenish  or  yellow- 
ish, feeding  in  the  berry,  causing  it  to  ripen  prematurely. 

Preventive.  —  Spray  just  before  eggs  are  laid  with  the 
sulphur  and  whale-oil  soap  wash. 

Remedies.  —  Destroy  affected  berries.  Clean  cultivation. 
Poultry. 

GREEN  LEAF-HOPPER.  —  See  under  CURRANT. 
Grape.    APPLE-TREE  BORER.  —  See  under  APPLE. 

GRAPE-BERRY  WORM  (Eudemis  botrana,  Schiff.).  —  Larva, 
about  one-fourth  inch  long,  feeding  in  the  berry,  often 
securing  three  or  four  together  in  a  web ;  two  broods. 

Remedy.  —  Burn  the  affected  berries  before  the  larva 
escapes. 

GRAPE-CURCULIO  (Craponius  incequalis,  Say). — Larva, 
small,  black  with  a  grayish  tint.  Infests  the  grape  in 
June  and  July,  causing  a  little  black  hole  in  the  skin  and 
a  discoloration  of  the  berry  immediately  around  it. 

Remedies.  —  Jarring  and  removing  berries.  The  beetle 
may  be  jarred  down  on  sheets,  as  with  the  plum-curculio. 
Bagging  the  clusters. 

GRAPE-SEED  WORM  (Isosoma  vitis,   Saunders).  —  A  minute 
grub,    living  in  the    seed    of   the  grape  and  causing   it 
to  become  distorted.    The  injured  grapes  shrivel.       ' 
Remedy.  —  Burn  the  affected  fruit. 


30  HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

GRAPE-SLUG  or  SAW-FLY  (Selandria  vitis,   Harris).  —  Larva 
about  one-half  inch    long,    yellowish    green    with    black 
points,  feeding  upon  the  leaves  ;  two  broods. 
Remedies.  —  Arsenites.      Hellebore. 

GRAPE-VINE  FIDIA  (Fidia  viticida,  Walsh).  —  Beetle,  re- 
sembles the  rose-bug,  somewhat  shorter  and  broader.  It 
appears  during  June  and  July,  riddling  the  leaves.  The 
larva  also  attacks  the  roots  of  grapes,  seeming  to  prefer 
the  Worden. 

Remedies.  —  The  beetles  can  be  killed  by  strong  arsenical 
sprays,  and  the  larvae  on  the  roots  by  bisulphide  of  carbon. 

GRAPE-VINE    FLEA-BEETLE    (Graptodera    chalybea,   Illig.). 

—  Beetle,  of  a  blue  metallic  color,  about  one-fourth  inch 
long,    feeding  upon  the  buds  and  tender  shoots  in  early 
spring. 

Remedies. — Arsenites.     The  beetle  can  be  caught  by 
jarring  on  cold  mornings. 
GRAPE-VINE  ROOT-BORER  (Sciapteron polistiformis,  Harris). 

—  Larva,  one   and   one- half    inch  or  less  long,  working 
in  the  roots. 

Preventive.  —  Mounding  as  for  the  peach-tree  borer. 

Remedy.  —  Dig  out  the  borers.  Apply  scalding  water  to 
the  roots. 

GRAPE-VINE  SPHINX  (Ampelophaga  Myron,  Cramer).  —  A 
large  larva,  two  inches  long  when  mature,  green  with 
yellow  spots  and  stripes,  bearing  a  horn  at  the  posterior 
extremity,  feeding  upon  the  leaves,-  and  nipping  off  the 
young  clusters  of  grapes  ;  two  broods. 

Remedies.  —  Hand-picking.  Arsenites,  early  in  the 
season. 

There  are  other  large  sphinx  caterpillars  which  feed  upon 
the  foliage  of  the  vine  and  which  are  readily  kept  in  check 
by  hand-picking  and  spraying. 

PHYLLOXERA  (Phylloxera  vastatrix,  Planchon).  A  minute 
insect  preying  upon  the  roots,  and  in  one  form  causing  galls 
upon  the  leaves. 

Preventive.  — As  a  rule  this  insect  is  not  destructive  to 


INJURIOUS   INSECTS.  31 

American  species  of  vines.  Grafting  upon  resistant  stocks 
is  the  most  reliable  method  of  dealing  with  the  insect 
yet  known.  This  precaution  is  taken  to  a  large  extent  in 
European  countries,  as  the  European  vine  is  particularly 
subject  to  attack. 

Remedies.  —  There  is  no  reliable  and  widely  practicable 
remedy  known.  Burn  affected  leaves.  Bisulphide  of 
carbon  poured  in  holes  in  the  ground,  which  are  quickly 
filled,  is  very  effective.  Carbolic  acid  and  water  used  in 
the  same  way  is  also  recommended.  Flood  the  vineyard. 

ROOT-BORER.  —  See  GRAPE-VINE  FIDIA. 

ROSE-BEETLE.  — See  under  ROSE. 

SNOWY  CRICKET.  —  See  under  RASPBERRY. 

THRIP  or  LEAF-HOPPER  (Erythroneura  vitis,  Harris). —  In 
various  stages,  one-tenth  inch  or  less  long ;  feeding  on 
leaves,  causing  them  to  appear  scorched. 

Remedies.  —  Sticky  fly-paper  secured  to  a  stick  and 
carried  over  the  vines,  while  another  person  scares  up  the 
insects.  Attract  to  lights  at  night.  Kerosene  emulsion. 
In  houses,  tobacco- smoke,  pyrethrum  poured  upon  coals 
held  under  the  vines,  syringing  with  tobacco- water  or  soap- 
suds. Fumigation  in  the  field  should  be  done  before  the 
insects  develop  wings  —  late  in  July  or  in  early  August  (in 
the  north).  Rake  ground  clean  about  vines  late  in  fall 
in  order  to  expose  insects  to  the  weather.  It  has  been 
found  in  California  that  thrips  can  be  greatly  lessened  by 
feeding  off  the  leaves  with  sheep,  soon  after  the  grapes 
are  picked. 

Grasshoppers.  —  If  these  pests  become  serious,  they  may  be 
kept  in  check  by  the  following  means  :  Place  a  tablespoon- 
ful  of  poisonous  bait  by  the  side  of  each  tree  or  vine.  The 
bait  is  made  of  40  pounds  bran,  15  pounds  middlings,  2 
gallons  syrup,  20  pounds  arsenic ;  mix  with  soft  water. 
Costs  25  to  75  cents  per  acre  for  orchards.  Or  Paris  green 
spray  may  be  used  where  there  is  no  danger  of  poisoning 
fruit  or  grain.  , 

Green-Fly.  —  See  APHIDES. 


32  HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

Hollyhock.  BUG  (Orthotylus  delicatus,  Uhl.).  —  A  small 
green  bug,  attacking  the  hollyhock  with  great  damage. 

Remedies.  —  Kerosene  emulsion.  Pyrethro-kerosene 
emulsion. 

House-Plants.  —  See  APHIDES,  MEALY-BUG,  MITES,  and  RED 
SPIDER. 

Lawns.  ANTS  (Formica  sp.).  —  Insects  burrowing  in  the 
ground,  forming  "ant-hills." 

Eemedy.  —  A  tablespoonful  of  bisulphide  of  carbon 
poured  into  holes  six  inches  deep  and  a  foot  apart,  the 
holes  being  immediately  filled  up. 

Leaf-Cnimpler  (Phycis  indigenella,  Zeller). — Larva,  brown, 
wrinkled,  found  on  leaves  of  various  kinds,  which  it  brings 
together  in  masses  and  attaches  them  to  each  other  and  to 
the  twigs  by  means  of  silken  threads.  The  next  season 
young  worms  appear  from  the  mass  and  feed  on  the  new 
crop  of  leaves. 

Eemedy.  —  Gather  the  masses  and  burn  them.  Arsenites 
before  the  larvae  cover  themselves  up. 

Lettuce.  APHIS  or  GREEN-FLY. — A  plant-louse  on  forced 
lettuce. 

Preventive.  —  Tobacco-dust  applied  on  the  soil  and  plants 
as  soon  as  the  aphis  makes  its  appearance,  or  even  before. 
Renew  every  two  or  three  weeks  if  necessary.  Fumigating 
with  tobacco  is  the  surest  remedy.  (See  FUMIGATION, 
Chap.  I.) 

GREEN  LETTUCE-WORM  (Plusia  Brassice,  Riley).  —  Larva, 
somewhat  over  an  inch  long,  pale  green,  with  stripes  of  a 
lighter  color,  feeding  upon  leaves  of  many  plants,  as  cab- 
bage, celery,  and  endive. 

Remedies.  —  Pyrethrum  diluted  with  not  more  than 
three  times  its  bulk  of  flour.  Kerosene  emulsion.  Hot 
water. 

Lice.  —  See  APHIDES. 

May-Beetle  or  May-Bug  (Lachnosterna  fusca,  Frohl.). — A 
large  and  familiar  brown  beetle,  feeding  upon  the  leaves 
of  many  kinds  of  trees.  The  common  white  grub  is  the 


INJURIOUS   INSECTS.  33 

larval  state.     It  often  does  great  damage  to  sod  and  to 
strawberries. 

Remedies. — For  beetle,  use  arsenites,  or  jar  them  early 
in  the  morning.  For  grubs,  plough  up  the  lawn  so  as  to 
expose  them  to  field-birds  and  poultry,  or  turn  in  hogs. 
Avoid  planting  strawberries  on  grubby  land.  The  grubs 
are  often  worst  upon  land  which  has  laid  in  sod,  or  which 
has  been  heavily  treated  with  stable  manure. 
Mealy-Bug  (Dactylopius  adonidum,  Linn.).  —  A  white  scale- 
like  insect  attacking  greenhouse  plants. 

Remedies. — Alcoholic  decoction  of  pyrethrum.  Whale- 
oil  soap.  Carbolic  acid  and  soap.  Removing  insects  with 
brush  on  tender  plants.  Whiskey,  applied  with  a  brush. 
Fish-brine.  House-^plants  may  be  washed  in  soapsuds. 
The  best  procedure  in  greenhouses  is  to  knock  them  off 
with  the  hose.  A  small  hard  stream  of  water  upsets  their 
domestic  affairs. 

Melon.  MELON-WORM  (Eudioptis  hyalinata,  Linn.).  —  Larva, 
some  over  an  inch  long,  yellowish  green  and  slightly  hairy, 
feeding  on  melon-leaves,  and  eating  holes  into  melons, 
cucumbers,  and  squashes  ;  two  or  more  broods. 

Remedies.  —  Hellebore.    Arsenites  early  in  the  season. 
SPOTTED  CUCUMBER-BEETLE.  —  See  under  CUCUMBER. 
STRIPED  CUCUMBER-BEETLE.  —  See  under  CUCUMBER. 
SQUASH- VINE  ROOT-BORER. — See  under  SQUASH. 
Mite  (Tetranychus  bimaculatus,   Harvey).  —  Much  like  red 
spider  in  size  and  shape,  but  light-colored,  with  two  dark 
spots  behind.     Feeds  upon  the  under  side  of  the  leaves  of 
many  greenhouse  plants.     The  most  serious  greenhouse 
pest.    Known  also  as  "  Verbena  Mite." 

Remedies. — Kerosene  emulsion,  or  Hughes'  fir-tree  oil. 
Kerosene  emulsion  (2)  (1  part  to  20  or  25  parts  of  water) 
will  kill  them  if  it  is  applied  thoroughly  to  the  under  side 
of  the  leaves.  The  application  should  be  repeated  two  or 
three  times  at  intervals  of  a  day  or  two,  or  until  the  mite 
is  destroyed.  Thereafter,  spray  once  a  week.  On  roses 
and  most  greenhouse  plants,  the  emulsion  should  be  washed 
D 


34  HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

off  the  foliage  by  the  hose,   an  hour  or  two  after  the 
application. 

Mushroom.  —  MUSHROOM-FLY.  — The  larva  bores  through  the 
stems  of  the  mushrooms  before  they  are  full-grown. 

Preventive.  —  Keep  the  beds  cool  so  that  the  fly  cannot 
develop.  When  the  fly  is  present,  growing  mushrooms  in 
warm  weather  is  usually  abandoned. 

Onion.  MAGGOT  (Phorbia  Ceparum,  Meigen).  —  Much  like  the 
cabbage-maggot,  which  see. 

Remedies.  —  Carbolic  acid  emulsion.  Bisulphide  of 
carbon. 

Orange.  KATYDID  (Microcentrum  retinervis,  Burm.).  —  A 
large  green  grasshopper-like  insect,  feeding  upon  the  foli- 
age. It  is  largely  kept  in  check  in  some  localities  by  a 
parasitic  chalcid  fly. 

Remedy.  —  Collect  the  eggs,  which  are  conspicuous  on 
the  borders  of  the  leaves. 

LEAF-NOTCHER  (Artipus  Floridanus,  Horn).  — Beetle,  one- 
fourth  inch  long,  greenish  blue  or  copper-colored,  eating 
the  edges  of  the  leaves. 

Remedy.  — Jarring. 
MITE  (Tetranychus  6-maculatus,  Riley).  — On  the  leaves. 

Remedies.  —  Kerosene     emulsion.      Sulphur.      Practise 
clean  culture. 
SCALE.  —  Many  species,  preying  upon  the  leaves  and  shoots. 

Remedies.  —  Kerosene  emulsion  applied  with  a  brush  or 
in  spray,  just  before  the  trees  bloom,  and  at  intervals  of 
two  or  three  weeks  as  occasion  may  require.  Lye  wash. 
Lye-and-sulphur  wash.  Pyrethrum  decoction.  Resin  and 
fish-oil  soap.  When  young  the  scale  is  more  easily  de- 
stroyed. Some  species  are  held  in  check  in  California  by 
an  Australian  lady-bird  beetle,  which  has  been  introduced 
for  this  purpose. 

Parsley.  PARSLEY-WORM  (Papilio  Asterias,  Cramer). — 
Larva,  inch  and  a  half  long,  light  yellow  or  greenish  yellow 
with  lines  and  spots  ;  feeding  upon  leaves  of  parsley,  celery, 
carrot,  etc.  When  the  worm  is  disturbed  it  ejects  two 


INJURIOUS   INSECTS.  35 

yellow  horns  with  an   offensive  odor,  from  the  anterior 
end. 

Remedies.  —  Hand-picking.    Poultry  are  said  to  eat  them 
sometimes.    Upon  parsnip,  arsenites. 
Parsnip.     PARSLEY- WORM.  —  See  under  PARSLEY. 
PARSNIP  WEB- WORM  (Depressaria  heracliana,  De  Geer). — 
Larva,  about  a  half  inch  long,  feeding  in  the  flower-cluster 
and  causing  it  to  become  contorted. 

Remedies.  —  Arsenites,  applied  as  soon  as  the  young 
worms  appear,  and  before  the  cluster  becomes  distorted. 
The  worms  are  easily  disturbed,  and  hand-picking  is  often 
advisable.  Burn  the  distorted  umbels. 

Pea.  PEA-WEEVIL  or  PEA-BUG  (Bruchus  Pisi,  Linn.). — A 
small  brown-black  beetle,  living  in  peas  over  winter.  The 
beetle  escapes  in  fall  and  spring  and  lays  its  eggs  in  young 
pea-pods,  and  the  grubs  live  in  the  growing  peas. 

Preventive.  —  It  is  said  that  coal  ashes  or  sand  saturated 
with  phenyl  and  sown  with  the  peas  will  prevent  attack. 

Remedies.  —  As  soon  as  the  mature  peas  are  picked,  and 
while  the  grubs  are  only  partly  grown,  subject  the  peas  to 
a  temperature  of  145°  for  an  hour.  The  seed  will  not  be 
injured.  The  ripe  peas  may  also  be  confined  in  some  tight 
receptacle,  and  a  little  bisulphide  of  carbon  added. 
Peach.  APHIS  {Aphis  Persicce-niger,  Smith).  —  A  small  black 
or  brown  plant-louse  which  attacks  the  tops  and  roots  of 
peach  trees.  When  upon  the  roots  it  is  a  very  serious 
enemy,  stunting  the  tree  and  perhaps  killing  it.  Thrives 
in  sandy  lands. 

Remedies.  —  Kerosene  emulsion.  Tobacco  decoction.  To- 
bacco hoed  in  about  the  tree  will  destroy  the  root-colonies. 
APPLE-TREE  (ROUND-HEADED)  BORER.  —  See  under  APPLE. 
FLAT-HEADED  BORER.  — See  under  APPLE. 
FRUIT  BARK-BEETLE.  —  See  PIN-HOLE  BORER. 
KATYDID.  —  This  insect  is  often  troublesome  to  the  peach  in 
the  southern  States  in  the  early  spring,  eating  the  leaves 
and  girdling  young  stems. 
Remedy.  —  Poisoned  baits  placed  about  the  tree. 


36  HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

PEACH-LOUSE  or  APHIS  (Myzus  Persicce,  Sulzer).  —  A  small 
insect  feeding  upon  the  young  leaves,  causing  them  to  curl 
and  die. 

Remedies.  —  Kerosene  emulsion.  Soap-and-soda  wash. 
Soap-water.  Soap  and  tobacco. 

PEACH-TREE  BORER  (Sannina  exitiosa,  Say).  —  A  whitish 
larva,  about  three-fourths  inch  long  when  mature, 
boring  into  the  crown  and  upper  roots  of  the  peach, 
causing  gum  to  exude. 

Preventive.  —  Make  a  mound  about  the  tree  in  early 
summer,  a  foot  high,  and  remove  it  in  September ;  the 
moth  then  lays  her  eggs  about  the  top  of  the  mound,  and 
the  tender  larvae  are  killed  by  exposure  to  the  weather.  A 
coat  of  asbestos  roofing  applied  about  the  base  of  the  tree  is 
recommended  as  a  preventive.  Apply  washes  as  for  apple- 
tree  borers.  Paint  the  crown  of  the  tree  with  ordinary 
paint,  to  which  Paris  green  has  been  added.  All  preven- 
tives are  unsatisfactory,  however,  and  the  only  safety  is  — 

Remedy.  —  Dig  out  the  borers  in  late  fall  and  early  spring. 

PEACH-TWIG  MOTH  (Anarsia  lineatella,  Zeller).  —  The  larva 

of  a  moth,  a  fourth  inch  long,  boring  in  the  ends  of  the 

shoots;  it  sometimes  attacks  the  apple  and  strawberry 

roots. 

Remedy.  —  Burn  the  infested  twigs. 

PIN-HOLE  BORER  (Scolytus  rugulosus,  Ratz). — A  black 
beetle  about  a  tenth  of  an  inch  long,  boring  into  the  trunk 
and  branches  of  peach,  plum,  apricot,  and  other  trees.  It 
is  thought  to  prefer  weak  or  unhealthy  trees. 

Remedy.  —  Burn  the  affected  trees  or  parts.    Keep  the 
trees  strong  and  vigorous. 
PLUM-CURCULIO.  —  See  under  PLUM. 

RED-LEGGED  FLEA-BEETLE  (Haltica  rufipes,  Linn.).  —  A  flea- 
beetle  feeding  on  the  leaves  of  peach  trees,  often  in  great 
numbers. 

Remedies.  —  The  insects  fall  at  once  upon  being  jarred, 
and  sheets  saturated  with  kerosene  may  be  used,  upon 
which  to  catch  them.  Spray  with  Paris  green. 


INJURIOUS   INSECTS.  37 

ROOT-GALLS.  —  See  ROOT-GALLS,  under  R. 

ROOT-KNOT.  —  See  ROOT-KNOT,  under  R. 

ROSE-BEETLE.  —  See  under  ROSE  and  APPLE. 
Pear.     APPLE-TREE  BORER.  —  See  under  APPLE. 

BUD-MOTH.  —  See  under  APPLE. 

GOBLIN-MOTH.  —  See  under  APPLE. 

FLAT-HEADED  BORER.  —  See  under  APPLE. 

MIDGE  (Diplosis  pyrivora,  Riley).  — A  minute  mosquito-like 
fly ;  lays  eggs  in  flower-buds  when  they  begin  to  show  white. 
These  hatch  into  minute  grubs  which  distort  and  discolor 
the  fruit.  New  York  and  eastward.  Prefers  the  Lawrence. 
Introduced  about  twelve  years  ago  from  France. 

Remedies.  — Destroy  the  infested  pears.  Cultivate  and 
plough  in  late  summer  and  fall  to  destroy  the  pupae,  then  in 
the  ground. 

PEAR-LEAF  BLISTER  (Phytoptus  Pyri,  Scheuten).  — A  minute 
mite  which  causes  black  blisters  to  appear  upon  the 
leaves.  The  mites  collect  under  the  bud-scales  in  winter. 

Remedy.  —  Burn  the  twigs  in  winter  or  spray  with  kero- 
sene emulsion. 

PEAR-TREE  BORER  (Sesia  Pyri,  Harris).  —  A  small  whitish 
larva,  feeding  under  the  bark  of  the  pear  tree. 
Remedy.  —  Same  as  for  round-headed  apple-tree  borer. 

PEAR-TWIG  BEETLE  (Xyleborus  Pyri,  Peck).  — Brownish  or 
black  beetle,  one-tenth  inch  long,  boring  in  twigs,  produc- 
ing effect  much  like  pear-blight,  and  hence  often  known  as 
"pear-blight  beetle."  It  escapes  from  a  minute  perfor- 
ation at  base  of  bud  ;  probably  two  broods. 

Remedy .  —  Burn  twigs  before  the  beetle  escapes. 

PSYLLA  (Psylla  pyricola,  Forst.).  —  A  curious  aphis-like  in- 
sect infesting  the  twigs  of  pear  trees  when  the  fruit  is 
setting.  They  are  covered  with  a  sticky  material,  and  in 
the  honey-dew  a  fungus  often  develops,  giving  the  twigs  a 
sooty  appearance.  Often  does  great  damage. 

Remedies.  —  Difficult  to  combat  Spray  with  kerosene 
emulsion  just  after  the  leaves  have  expanded,  whilst  the 
nymphs  are  young.  Repeat,  if  necessary,  within  a  period 


38  HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

of  two  weeks  after  the  nymphs  appear,  before  they  are 
protected  by  honey  dew.  During  midsummer  a  forcible 
spray  will  destroy  a  very  large  proportion  of  the  adults. 

ROSE-BEETLE.  — See  under  ROSE  and  APPLE. 

ROUNDED-HEADED  BORER.  —  See  under  APPLE. 

SLUG.  —  See  under  CHERRY. 

TWIG-GIRDLER  (Oncideres  cingulatus,  Say). — A  brownish- 
gray  beetle,  about  one- half  inch  long,  which  girdles  twigs 
in  August  and  September.  The  female  lays  eggs  above  the 
girdle.  The  twigs  soon  fall. 

Remedy.  —  Burn  the  twigs,  either  cutting  them  off  or 
gathering  them  when  they  fall. 

TWIG-PRUNER.  —  See  under  APPLE. 
Persimmon.    TWIG-GIRDLER.  —  See  under  PEAR. 
Pineapple.     KATYDID  (Acanthacara  similis).  — A  large  katy^ 
did  which  attacks,  among  other  plants,  the  leaves  of  the 
pineapple. 

Remedy.  —  Arsenites,  before  the  plants  are  mature. 
Plant-Lice.  —  See  APHIDES. 
Plum.    BUD-MOTH.  —  See  under  APPLE. 

CANKER-WORM.  —  See  under  APPLE. 

CURCULIO  (Conotrachelus  nenuphar,  Herbst.).  —  Larva,  a 
whitish  grub,  feeding  in  the  fruit. 

Remedies.  —  Arsenites  ;  apply  as  soon  as  the  calyx  falls 
and  repeat  two  or  three  times  at  intervals  of  about  ten  days. 
Plaster  and  carbolic  acid  mixture.  Jarring  the  beetles  on 
sheets  very  early  in  the  morning,  beginning  when  trees  are 
in  flower,  and  continuing  from  four  to  six  weeks,  is  prob- 
ably the  most  sure  procedure.  There  are  various  styles  of 
sheets  or  receptacles  for  catching  the  insects  as  they  fall 
from  the  tree.  Catching  beetles  under  chips  or  blocks 
about  base  of  tree,  the  insects  being  taken  very  early  in 
the  morning. 

FLAT-HEADED  BORER.  —  See  under  APPLE. 

PEAR-TWIG  BEETLE.  —  See  under  PEAR. 

PLUM-GOUGER  (Coccotorus  scutellaris,  Lee.). — A  small 
larva,  feeding  upon  the  kernel  of  the  plum.  The  beetle 


INJURIOUS   INSECTS.  39 

bores  a  round  hole  in  the  plum,  instead  of  making  a  cres- 
cent mark  like  the  curculio. 

Remedy. — Same  as  for  curculio. 

SCALE  (Lecanium  sp.). — A  large  circular  scale  occurring 
upon  plum  (and  perhaps  other)  trees  in  New  York. 

Remedy. — Thorough  spraying  with  kerosene  emulsion 
(2)   (1  part  to  5  of  water)  in  the  winter.    More  dilute 
emulsion  in  midsummer  when  the  young  insects  are  on  the 
leaves  and  young  shoots. 
•  SLUG.  — See  under  CHERRY. 

TWIG-PRUNER.  —  See  under  APPLE. 

Poplar.  COTTONWOOD  LEAF-BEETLE  (Lina  scripta,  Riley). — 
A  striped  beetle  feeding  on  the  leaves  and  shoots  of  poplars 
and  willows. 

Remedy. — Arsenites. 
WILLOW- WORM.  —  See  under  WILLOW. 

Potato.  COLORADO  POTATO-BEETLE  (Doryphora  decemlineata, 
Say). — Beetle  and  larva  feed  upon  the  leaves. 

Remedies. — Arsenites,  either  dry  or  in  spray,  about  a 
third  stronger  than  for  fruits.     Handpicking  the  beetle. 
MOLE-CRICKET  (Gryllotolpa  borealis,  Burm.). — Mature  in- 
sect curiously  formed,  whitish,  feeding  on  tubers  in  low 
and  mucky  ground. 

Preventive.  —  Plant  potatoes  on  upland. 

STALK- WEEVIL  (Trichobaris  trinotata,  Say). — A  grub  bor- 
ing in  the  stalk  of  the  potato  near  or  just  below  the  ground. 
Serious  at  the  west  and  in  some  places  eastward. 

Remedy.  —  Burn  all  infested  vines. 

Privet  or  Prim.  PRIVET  WEB- WORM  (Margaronia  quadristig- 
malis,  Gn.). — Small  larva  feeding  in  webs  on  the  young 
shoots  of  the  privet,  appearing  early  in  the  season  ;  two  to 
four  broods. 

Remedies. — Trim  the  hedge  as  soon  as  the  worms  appear 
and  burn  the  trimmings.    Attract  the  moths  at  night  by 
lights.    Probably  the  arsenites  will  prove  useful. 
Quince.     ROUND-HEADED  BORERS. —  See  under  APPLE. 
SLUG.  —  See  under  CHERRY. 


40  HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

Radish.  MAGGOT  (Anthomyia  Eaphani  of  Harris,  but  now 
considered  to  be  identical  with  the  cabbage  root-maggot). 
—  Treated  the  same  as  the  cabbage- maggot,  which  see. 
Raspberry.  CANE-BORER  (Oberea  bimaculata,  Oliv.). — 
Beetle,  black,  small,  and  slim ;  making  two  girdles  about 
an  inch  apart  near  the  tip  of  the  cane,  in  June,  and  laying 
an  egg  just  above  the  lower  girdle  ;  the  larva,  attaining  the 
length  of  nearly  an  inch,  bores  down  the  cane.  Also  in 
the  blackberry. 

Remedy.  —  As  soon  as  the  tip  of  the  cane  wilts,  cut  it  off 
at  the  lower  girdle  and  burn  it. 

RASPBERRY  ROOT-BORER  (Bembecia  marginata,  Harris).  — 
Larva  about  one  inch  long,  boring  in  the  roots  and  the 
lower  parts  of  the  cane,  remaining  in  the  root  over  winter. 

Remedy.  —  Dig  out  the  borers. 

RASPBERRY  SAW-FLY  (Selandria  Rubi,  Harris).  —  Larva 
about  three-fourths  inch  long,  green,  feeding  upon  the 
leaves. 

Remedies.  — Hellebore.  Arsenites,  after  fruiting. 
ROOT  GALL-FLY  (Rhodites  radicum,  Sacken). — A  small 
larva  which  produces  galls  on  the  roots  of  the  raspberry, 
blackberry,  and  rose,  causing  the  bush  to  appear  sickly, 
and  eventually  killing  it.  The  swellings  are  probably 
often  confounded  with  the  true  root-galls,  which  see 
under  R. 

Remedy. — There  is  no  remedy  except  to  destroy  the 
galls ;  if  plants  are  badly  affected  they  must  be  dug  up 
and  burned. 

SNOWY  or  TREE-CRICKET  (CEcanthus  niveus,  Serv.). — Small 
and  whitish  cricket-like  insect,  puncturing  canes  for  two 
or  three  inches,  and  depositing  eggs  in  the  punctures. 

Remedy.  —  Burn  infested  canes  in  winter  or  very  early 
spring. 

Red  Spider  (Tetranychus  telarius,  Linn.). — A  small  red 
mite  infesting  many  plants,  both  in  the  greenhouse  and 
out  of  doors.  It  flourishes  in  dry  atmospheres,  and  on  the 
under  sides  of  the  leaves. 


INJURIOUS   INSECTS.  41 

Remedies. — Persistent  syringing  with  water  will  gen- 
erally destroy  them,  if  the  spray  is  applied  to  the  under 
surface.  Fumes  of  sulphur.  Sulphide-of-soda  wash. 
Kerosene  emulsion  as  for  MITES. 

Rhubarb.  RHUBARB-CURCULIO  (Lixus  concavus,  Say). — A 
grub  three-fourths  inch  long  boring  into  the  crown  and 
roots.  It  also  attacks  wild  docks. 

Remedy.  —  Burn  all  infested  plants,  and  keep  down  the 
docks. 

Root-Gall,  Crown-Gall. — A  widespread  disease,  of  which 
the  cause  is  wholly  unknown.  It  occurs  upon  the  peach, 
apple,  pear,  raspberry,  blackberry,  and  other  plants.  The 
swellings  are  hard  and  woody,  and  appear  both  at  the 
crown  of  the  plant  —  where  they  sometimes  attain  the  size 
of  one's  double  fists  —  and  on  the  small  roots. 

Remedy.  —  Nothing  is  surely  known  in  the  way  of 
remedy  except  to  destroy  badly  infested  trees.  It  is  rec- 
ommended to  dig  away  the  earth,  cut  off  or  pare  off  the 
knots,  and  to  paint  the  wounds  with  Bordeaux  mixture. 
Nursery  trees  should  be  inspected  for  the  galls. 
Root-Knot  (Heterodera  radicicola,  Miill.).  — A  disease  charac- 
terized by  the  knotting  and  contortion  of  the  roots  of  the 
peach,  orange,  and  many  other  plants.  The  knots  are  mostly 
rather  soft  swellings,  and  on  the  smaller  roots.  It  is  usually 
most  destructive  on  the  peach.  It  is  caused  by  a  nematode, 
or  true  worm.  Gulf  States.  Attacks  greenhouse  plants  in 
the  north. 

Preventive.  —  Plant  non-infested  plants  in  fresh  soil ; 
bud  into  healthy  stocks.  Fertilize  highly,  particularly  with 
potassic  fertilizers.  Set  the  trees  eight  or  ten  inches  deep 
in  high  and  dry  soils.  Infested  small  trees  may  be 
remedied,  in  part  at  least,  by  transplanting  them  into 
highly  manured  holes  which  have  been  prepared  contiguous 
to  them.  Does  not  live  in  regions  where  the  ground 
freezes  deeply.  If  it  is  feared  in  greenhouses,  see  that  the 
soil  has  been  thoroughly  frozen  before  it  is  used.  White- 
wash the  benches.  See  ROOT-GALL. 


42  HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

Rose.     ROOT  GALL-FLY.  —  See  uader  RASPBERRY. 

MEALY-BUG.  —  On  roses,  a  gill  of  kerosene  oil  to  a  gallon  of 
water  is  said  to  be  a  good  remedy.  Syringe  the  plants  in 
the  morning,  and  two  hours  later  syringe  again  with  clean 
water.  See  also  under  MEALY-BUG. 

ROSE-BEETLE,  ROSE-CHAFER  or  "  ROSE-BUG  "  (Macrodacty- 
lus  subspinosus,  Fabr.). — Beetle  three- fourths  inch  long, 
light  brown,  feeding  upon  the  leaves,  blossoms,  and  fruit. 

,  A  very  difficult  insect  to  fight.  Most  abundant  upon  sandy 
lands.  Often  invades  fruit  plantations,  devouring  almost 
everything  before  it.  All  methods  of  dealing  with  it  are 
unsatisfactory. 

Remedies.  —  Hand-picking.  Knocking  off  on  sheet  early 
in  morning.  Bagging.  Pyrethrum.  Kerosene  emulsion. 
Pyrethro-kerosene  emulsion.  Eau  c61este.  It  is  said  to 
prefer  Clinton  grapes,  spireas,  rose-bushes  and  magnolias, 
and  it  has  been  suggested  that  these  plants  be  used  as  a 
decoy.  Open  vials  of  bisulphide  of  carbon  hung  in  bushes 
and  vines  are  recommended  by  some.  Sludge-oil  soap,  a 
manufactured  material.  Spraying  with  dilute  lime  white- 
wash. Hot  water,  at  a  temperature  of  125°  to  130°  Fah- 
renheit. To  prevent  the  insects  from  breeding,  keep  the 
light  lands — in  which  they  breed  —  under  thorough  culti- 
vation, and  especially  never  seed  them  down. 

ROSE  LEAF- HOPPER  (Typhlocyba  Rosce,  Harris). — Hopper, 
very  small,  white,  often  mistaken  for  thrips ;  lives  on  the 
leaves  of  roses.  Various  stages  of  growth  may  be  found 
in  the  leaves  throughout  the  summer,  and  even  on  indoor 
plants. 

Remedies.  —Whale-oil  soap.  Kerosene.  Kerosene 
emulsion.  Nicotyl  vapor.  Dry  pyrethrum  blown  on  the 
bushes  when  they  are  wet. 

San  Jos6  Scale  (Aspidiotus  perniciosus,  Comst.).  —  A  scale- 
insect  recently  introduced  into  the  East  from  Cali- 
fornia (supposed  to  be  native  to  Chile),  living  upon  a 
variety  of  fruit-trees.  The  scale  is  generally  circular,  rarely 
a  little  elongated  or  irregular,  one-sixteenth  inch  across 


INJURIOUS   INSECTS.  43 

(or  rarely  twice  as  large  on  succulent  shoots  or  on  the 
fruit). 

Remedies.  —  Kerosene  emulsion,  or  whale-oil  soap  (2  Ibs. 
to  the  gal.),  in  the  winter,  for  the  East.  Upon  the  Pacific 
coast,  resin  washes. 

Scale-Insects.  —  Various  species  of  small  insects  inhabiting 
the  young  growth  of  trees,  and  sometimes  the  fruit,  in  one 
stage  characterized  by  a  stationary  scale-like  appearance. 
Kerosene  emulsion  and  resin  washes  in  the  winter  are  the 
best  remedies.  Species  which  migrate  onto  the  young 
growth  in  spring  can  be  readily  despatched  at  that  time  by 
kerosene  emulsion. 

Snails.  —  These  animals  are  often  very  troublesome  in  green- 
houses, eating  many  plants  voraciously. 

Preventives.  —  Trap  them  by  placing  pieces  of  turnip, 
cabbage,  or  potatoes  about  the  house.  Scatter  bits  of 
camphor-gum  about  the  plants.  Strew  a  line  of  salt  along 
the  edges  of  the  bed.  Lime  dusted  about  the  plants  will 
keep  them  away. 

Squash.  BORER  or  ROOT-BORER  (Melittia  Ceto,  Westw.).  — 
Larva,  boring  into  the  root  or  crown  of  squashes  and  other 
cucurbits.  The  moth  flies  only  during  the  day,  and  lays  its 
eggs  in  various  places  upon  the  plant. 

Remedies.  —  Catch  the  moths,  which  are  an  inch  long 
and  blackish-brown  with  an  olive-green  lustre,  as  they 
settle  upon  the  leaves  (near  the  base  on  the  upper  side) 
at  twilight.  When  the  vines  begin  to  run,  cover  the  fourth 
or  remoter  joints  with  earth,  in  order  that  they  may  take 
root  and  help  support  the  plant. 

Strawberry.  CROWN-BORER  (  Tyloderma  Fragarice,  Riley) .  — 
White  grub,  one-fifth  inch  long,  boring  into  the  crown  of 
the  plant  in  midsummer.  The  mature  insect  is  a  curculio 
or  weevil. 

Remedy.  —  Burn  over  the  field  after  the  fruit  is  picked. 
If  this  does  not  destroy  the  insects,  dig  up  the  plants  and 
burn  them. 
GRUB  or  MAY-BEETLE.  —  See  under  MAY-BEETLE. 


44  HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

LEAF-ROLLER  (Phoxopteris  comptana,  Frol.). —  Larva,  less 
than  one-half  inch  long,  feeding  on  the  leaves,  and  rolling 
them  up  in  threads  of  silk  ;  two  broods. 

Remedies.  —  In  first  stage  of  attack  apply  hellebore  or 
arsenites  if  the  attack  is  very  early,  or  if  it  is  after  the 
fruit  is  off.  Burn  the  leaf-cases. 

ROOT-BORER  (Anarsia  lineatella,  Zeller).  —  Larva,  about  one- 
half  inch  long,  whitish,  boring  into  the  crown  of  the  plant 
late  in  the  season  and  remaining  in  it  over  winter. 
Remedy.  —  Burn  the  plant. 

ROOT-LOUSE  (Aphis  Forbesii,  Weed).  — From  July  to  the 
close  of  the  season  the  lice  appear  in  great  numbers  on 
the  crowns  and  in  the  roots  of  the  plants. 

Remedies.  —  Rotation  in  planting.  Disinfect  plants  com- 
ing from  infested  patches  by  dipping  the  crowns  and  roots 
in  kerosene  emulsion. 

SAW-FLY    (Emphytus  maculatus,   Norton).  —  Larva,  nearly 
three-fourths  inch  long,  greenish,  feeding  upon  the  leaves  ; 
two  broods. 
Remedies.  —  Hellebore.     Arsenites  for  second  brood. 

WEEVIL  (Anthonomus  signatus,  Say). — Beetle,  one-tenth 
inch  long,  reddish,  feeding  on  flower-buds,  particularly  those 
of  the  polleniferous  varieties. 

Preventive.  — Covering  the  plants  with  newspapers  or 
cloth  is  said  to  be  the  only  effective  means  of  checking  the 


Remedies.  — Plaster  and  crude  carbolic  acid  mixture. 
Sumac.     APPLE-TREE  BORER.  —  See  under  APPLE. 
JUMPING  SUMAC-BEETLE  (Blepharida  Rhois,  Forst.). — Larva, 
half-inch  long,  dull-greenish  yellow,  feeding  on  leaves  ;  two 
broods. 

Remedy.  —  Arsenites. 

Sweet-Potato.  SAW-FLY  (Schizocerus  ebenus,  Norton). — 
Small  larva  about  one-fourth  inch  long,  working  upon  the 
leaves.  The  fly  is  about  the  size  of  a  house-fly. 

Remedies.  —  Hellebore  and  pyrethrum  are  to  be  recom- 
mended ;  also  arsenites. 


INJURIOUS   INSECTS.  45 

Tomato.  FRUIT-WORM  (Heliothis  armiger,  Hub.).  —  Larva, 
one  inch  in  length,  pale  green  or  dark  brown,  faintly 
striped,  feeding  upon  the  fruit.  Also  on  corn  and  cotton. 

Remedies.  —  Hand-picking.     White  hellebore. 
ToMATO-KiNGER  (Stictocephalo,  festina,  Say).  —  A  leaf-hop- 
per which  injures  the  stem  of  the  young  tomato-plant  by 
puncturing  it  in  a  ring.     Southward. 

No  remedy  is  known. 

TOMATO- WORM  (Phlegethontius  celeus,  Hbn.,  or  Macrosila 
quinquemaculata,  Haw.) .  —  A  very  large  green  worm  feed- 
ing upon  the  stems  and  leaves  of  the  tomato  and  husk 
tomato.  Seldom  abundant  enough  to  be  very  serious  ;  kept 
in  check  by  parasites. 

Eemedies.  —  Hand-picking.     Hellebore.    Arsenites. 
Turnip.     MAGGOT.  — See  under  CABBAGE. 
Verbena.    MITE.  —  See  page  33. 

White  Ants,  or  Termites. — These  insects  often  infest 
orchard  trees  in  the  southern  States,  particularly  in 
orchards  which  contain  old  stumps  or  rubbish. 

Remedy.  — The  soap-and-arsenites  wash  brushed  over  the 
trunk  and  branches  of  the  tree. 

Willow.  WILLOW- WORM  (  Vanessa  antiopa,  Linn.).  — Larva, 
nearly  two  inches  long,  black,  feeding  upon  leaves  of 
willow,  elm,  and  poplar ;  two  broods. 

Remedy.  —  Arsenites. 

Wire-Worm  (Various  species).  —  Slim  and  brown  larvae, 
feeding  upon  the  roots  of  various  plants.  They  are  the 
larvse  of  the  click-beetle  or  snapping-beetle. 

Remedy.  —  Arsenites  sprinkled  upon  baits  of  fresh  clover 
or  other  material  which  is  placed  about  the  field  under 
blocks  or  boards.  Sweetened  corn-meal  dough  also  makes 
a  good  bait.  The  best  treatment  is  to  plough  infested  land 
in  the  fall.  A  system  of  short  rotations  of  crops  will 
lessen  injury  from  wire-worms. 


CHAPTER   III. 

FUNGICIDES,  FOR  PLANT-DISEASES. 

THE  results  obtained  from  the  use  of  any  insecticide 
or  fungicide  depend  much  upon  the  operator.  Tmidir 
ness,  thoroughness,  and  persistence  are  the  watchwords 
of  success.  It  is  easier  to  keep  an  enemy  away  than 
to  drive  him  away.  The  worst  foes  are  often  the 
smallest  ones,  and  the  injury  is  often  done  before  they 
are  detected.  Be  ready,  and  begin  early.  Few  people 
spray  with  sufficient  thoroughness. 

The  two  most  important  fungicides  are  ammonia- 
cal  carbonate  of  copper  and  Bordeaux  mixture.  The 
former  is  cheaper  and  more  easily  applied.  The  latter 
is  more  adhesive  and  generally  the  best.  It  may  be 
applied  even  in  the  rain  to  advantage,  when  fair 
weather  does  not  present  itself.  In  case  any  disease 
is  not  mentioned,  or  you  are  in  doubt  and  cannot  secure 
advice,  use  one  or  the  other  of  these  preparations. 

Copper  carbonate  costs  from  40  to  60  cents  per  pound. 

Copper  sulphate  costs  4  to  6  cents  per  pound. 

Ammoniacal  carbonate  of  copper.  —  1.  Carbonate  copper, 
1  ounce  ;  and  ammonia  (J  to  1  quart)  enough  to  dissolve 
it.  The  best  ammonia  water  to  use  for  dissolving  copper 
carbonate  is  made  by  using  1  volume  26°  BeaumS,  with  7 
or  8  volumes  of  water.  It  can  be  kept  indefinitely  in 
corked  bottles.  Dilute  with  9  gallons  of  water  when 
wanted.  This  is  the  handiest  formula. 
46 


FUNGICIDES,   FOR   PLANT-DISEASES.  47 

2.  Into  a  vessel  having  a  capacity  of  2  quarts  or  more, 
pour   1   quart  of  ammonia   (strength  22°  Beaumd),  add 
3  ounces  carbonate  of  copper.     Stir  rapidly  for  a  moment 
and  the  carbonate  of  copper  will  dissolve  in  the  ammonia, 
forming  a  clear  liquid.     The  concentrated  liquid  thus  pre- 
pared may  be  kept  indefinitely.     Dilute  to  25  gallons. 

3.  Carbonate   of  copper,  5   ounces  ;  ammonia  (26°),  3 
pints  ;  water,  45  gallons. 

It  is  better  to  wet  the  carbonate  before  dissolving  it. 

Blue  Vitriol.  —  See  SULPHATE  OF  COPPER. 

Bordeaux  mixture  (copper  mixture  of  Gironde).  —  1.  Dis- 
solve 6  pounds  of  sulphate  of  copper  in  4  or  more  gallons  of 
water.  In  another  vessel  slake  4  pounds  of  quick  lime  (  6 
pounds  air-slaked)  in  a  small  quantity  of  water.  When 
the  latter  mixture  has  cooled,  it  is  poured  into  the  copper 
solution,  care  being  taken  to  mix  the  fluids  thoroughly  by 
constant  stirring,  and  water  is  added  to  make  about  40  gal- 
lons of  mixture.  Stir  before  applying.  Stronger  mixtures 
were  at  first  recommended,  but  they  are  not  now  used. 
This  is  the  normal  mixture. 

2.  Powdered    sulphate  of  copper,   12  pounds  in  15-20 
gallons  of  water ;  lime,  8  pounds  in  10-12  gallons  of  water. 
When  the  materials  are  thoroughly  incorporated  with  the 
water,  unite  the  two  mixtures. 

3.  Patrigeon  Method. — Dissolve  6    pounds   copper  in 
water  as  for  (1),  and  add  milk  of  lime  until  a  drop  of 
ferrocyanide  of  potassium    (yellow  prussiate  of   potash) 
added  to  the  mixture  ceases  to  give  a  red-brown  color 
reaction.    Used  because  the  minimum  amount  of  lime  is 
added,  rendering  the  mixture  more  easy  of  application ;  but 
Bordeaux  made  in  this  way  often  injures  fruit,  particularly 
in  a  wet  season. 

The  best  way  to  dissolve  the  sulphate  of  copper  is  to 
suspend  it  in  a  bag  of  coffee-sacking  in  the  top  of  a  barrel 
of  water.  Use  the  pulverized  sulphate. 

Bordeaux  mixture  may  be  applied  in  combination  with 
the  arsenites.  See  Chap.  I.  (page  3). 


48  HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

Bordeaux  mixture  is  the  best  general  fungicide.  It  is 
used  for  downy  mildew  and  black-rot  of  the  grape,  blight 
and  rot  of  the  tomato  and  potato,  blights  of  fruit,  and 
many  other  diseases. 

Sometimes  the  mixture  is  not  washed  off  grapes  or  plums 
by  the  rains.  In  this  case,  add  one  quart  of  strong  cider- 
vinegar  to  5  gallons  of  water,  and  dip  the  grapes,  allowing 
them  to  remain  a  few  minutes,  then  rinse  once  or  twice. 
Dip  the  fruits  by  placing  them  in  a  wire  basket. 

Carbolic  acid  (phenic  acid).  —  Soapsuds,  10  gallons;  glyc- 
erine, 1  pound ;  carbolic  acid,  \  pint.  Mix  thoroughly  to 
form  an  emulsion.  For  orange-leaf  scab. 

Copper,  precipitated  carbonate  of.  —  Dissolve  2  pounds  of 
sulphate  of  copper  in  hot  water,  and  in  another  vessel  2L 
pounds  of  sal  soda  in  hot  water ;  when  cool,  the  two  are 
added  together  with  constant  stirring.  The  mixture  is  then 
diluted  to  25  gallons.  For  diseases  of  the  grape. 

Copper  sulphate.  —  See  SULPHATE  OF  COPPER. 

Corrosive  sublimate  (bichloride  of  mercury).  —  Used  for 
potato  scab,  which  see  in  Chap.  IV. 

Destroying  affected  parts.  —  It  is  important  that  all  affected 
parts  should  be  removed  and  burned,  if  possible.  In  the 
fall  all  leaves  and  fruit  which  have  been  attacked  by  fungi 
should  be  raked  up  and  burned.  Diseased  branches  should 
be  severed  at  some  distance  below  the  lowest  visible  point 
of  attack.  Fungous  diseases  often  spread  rapidly,  and 
prompt  action  is  usually  necessary.  Practise  clean  and 
tidy  culture. 

Eau  celeste.  —  1  (Audoynaud  process} .  Dissolve  1  pound  of 
sulphate  of  copper  in  2  gallons  of  hot  water.  When  com- 
pletely dissolved  and  the  water  has  cooled,  add  1|  pints 
of  commercial  ammonia  (strength  22°  Beaum6).  When 
ready  to  use,  dilute  to  25  gallons.  For  treatment  of  downy 
mildew  and  black-rot  of  the  grape,  anthracnose,  and  blight 
and  rot  of  the  tomato  and  potato,  and  many  other  diseases. 
2.  Modified  eau  celeste.  Dissolve  1  pound  of  sulphate  of 
copper  in  2  gallons  of  water.  In  another  vessel  dissolve  1 


FUNGICIDES,   FOR   PLANT-DISEASES.  49 

pound  of  carbonate  of  soda.  Mix  the  two  solutions. 
When  chemical  reaction  has  ceased,  add  1|  pints  of  ammo- 
nia, then  dilute  to  25  gallons.  For  the  same  purposes  as 
No.  1,  and  better. 

Grison  liquid  (Eau  Grison} .  —  Prepared  by  boiling  3  pounds 
each  of  flowers  of  sulphur  and  lime  in  6  gallons  of  water 
until  reduced  to  2  gallons.  When  settled,  pour  off  the 
clear  liquid  and  bottle  it.  When  used,  mix  1  pint  of  clear 
liquid  in  100  parts  of  water.  For  European  mildew  and 
powdery  mildew  of  vines. 

Podeschard's  powder.  —  Dissolve  45  pounds  of  sulphate  of 
copper  in  water.  When  thoroughly  dissolved,  pour  the 
solution  upon  225  pounds  of  air-slaked  lime,  which  is  sur- 
rounded by  30  pounds  of  ashes  to  keep  the  liquid  from 
spreading.  After  24  hours  add  20  pounds  of  flowers  of 
sulphur.  Thoroughly  mix  the  compound,  ashes  and  all. 
When  dry,  sift  through  a  sieve  with  meshes  of  one-eighth 
inch.  Will  keep  for  months.  For  downy  mildew,  mildew 
and  anthracnose. 

Potassium  sulphide.  —  See  SULPHIDE  OF  POTASSIUM. 

Rotation  of  crops  is  one  of  the  most  effective  and  prac- 
ticable means  of  heading  off  fungous  diseases.  It  may  be 
applied  to  strawberries  for  the  leaf-blight,  by  fruiting  the 
patch  but  a  single  year,  and  to  blackberries  and  raspberries 
by  destroying  the  patch  after  two  or  three  crops  have  been 
harvested. 

Sulfo-steatite,  or  Cupric  steatite.  — An  exceedingly  fine  blu- 
ish powder  composed  of  steatite,  or  talc,  and  about  10  per 
cent  of  sulphate  of  copper.  Considered  the  most  adherent 
of  all  fungicide  powders.  Is  often  injurious  to  foliage  and 
should  be  applied  with  care.  For  mildews. 

Sulphate  of  copper  (Blue  Vitriol).  —  !.  Dissolve  1  pound  of 
pure  sulphate  of  copper  in  15  gallons  of  water.  For  downy 
mildew  and  black-rot  of  grape  and  apple-scab  in  winter,  or 
in  spring  before  the  buds  swell.  Use  25  gallons  water  for 
peaches.  Should  be  applied  only  to  dormant  wood. 

2.  Dissolve  5  to  8  pounds  in  10  gallons  of  water.     For 


50  HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

soaking  grains  previous  to  sowing,  to  destroy  spores  of 
smuts.  The  Germans  use  a  ^-per  cent  solution,  and  soak 
the  grains  for  about  16  hours. 

3.  A  saturated  solution  with  1  per  cent  sulphuric  acid 
added  is  sometimes  used  in  place  of  a  similar  one  of  iron 
sulphate  for  grape  anthracnose  in  winter. 

Sulphatine  powder,  the  Esteve  process.  —  Mix  2  pounds 
of  anhydrous  sulphate  of  copper  with  20  pounds  of  flowers 
of  sulphur  and  2  pounds  of  air-slaked  lime.  For  mildew, 
downy  mildew,  and  black-rot  of  grape,  tomato,  and  potato- 
blight  and  rot. 

Sulphate  of  iron.  —  1.  Simple  solution  in  water  of  4  to  8 
pounds  to  the  gallon.  To  be  used  only  as  a  wash  before 
the  buds  swell.  A  saturated  solution  to  which  about  1  per 
cent  of  sulphuric  acid  is  added  is  successfully  used  in 
Europe,  for  anthracnose  of  the  vine,  etc.,  in  winter. 
2.  For  a  spray,  dissolve  about  1  pound  to  the  gallon. 

Sulphide,  or  sulphuret,  of  potassium  (liver  of  sulphur) .  — 
Simple  solution  in  water  of  £  to  1  ounce  to  the  gallon.  For 
mildew  in  greenhouses,  mildew  on  roses,  erinose  of  vine, 
orange  leaf-scab,  celery  leaf -blight,  pear  and  apple-scab  and 
various  rots. 

Sulphide-of-soda  wash  (Hilgard'ls). — Dissolve  30  pounds 
of  whale-oil  soap  in  60  gallons  of  water  by  heating  the  two 
together  thoroughly.  Then  boil  3  pounds  of  American 
concentrated  lye  with  6  pounds  of  sulphur  and  2  gallons  of 
water.  When  thoroughly  dissolved,  it  is  a  dark-brown 
liquid,  chemically  called  sulphide  of  soda.  Mix  the  two  — 
the  soap  and  the  sulphur  —  well,  and  allow  them  to  boil  for 
half  an  hour,  then  add  90  gallons  of  water  to  the  mixture, 
and  it  is  ready  for  use.  Apply  it  warm  by  means  of  a 
spray -pump.  Used  warm,  its  effect  is  better,  and  less 
material  is  required  than  when  cold.  For  scab  diseases. 

Sulphur.  —  In  its  dry  and  pulverized  state,  sulphur,  known  as 
flowers  of  sulphur,  is  often  a  valuable  fungicide,  particu- 
larly for  surface  mildew.  In  the  greenhouse  it  may  also 
be  used  in  fumes.  Evaporate  it  over  a  steady  heat,  as  an 


FUNGICIDES,    FOR   PLANT-DISEASES.  51 

oil-stove,  until  the  house  is  filled  with  the  vapor.  It  should 
never  be  heated  to  the  burning  point,  as  burning  sulphur 
quickly  destroys  most  plants.  To  prevent  burning,  place 
the  sulphur  and  pan  in  a  pan  of  sand,  and  set  the  whole 
upon  the  oil-stove.  It  may  also  be  used  in  water,  in  the 
proportion  of  an  ounce  of  sulphur  to  5  gallons  of  water. 

Sulphur  and  lime.  —  A  mixture  of  sulphur  and  lime  in  equal 
parts  by  weight.  For  dusting  on  surface  mildews. 

Sulphuric  acid.  —  Used  in  connection  with  sulphate  of  iron 
or  of  copper,  which  see. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

PLANT-DISEASES,  WITH  PREVENTIVES  AND 
REMEDIES. 

As  a  general  rule,  all  fungi  which  attack  the  leaves 
and  cause  them  to  become  spotted,  as  the  various  leaf- 
blights  and  mildews,  are  readily  kept  in  check  by 
the  thorough  applications  of  fungicides.  Fungi  which 
destroy  the  deeper  tissues,  as  black-knot  of  plums  and 
red-rust  of  the  quince,  can  also  be  kept  off  if  the  plant 
is  always  covered  with  a  fungicide.  For  the  germ  or 
bacterial  diseases,  like  pear-blight  and  others,  there 
are  no  specific  preventives  or  remedies,  and  the  horti- 
culturist must  resort  to  timely  pruning,  rotation  of 
crops,  or  various  methods  of  strategy. 

The  Bordeaux  mixture  is  now  considered  to  be  the 
best  fungicide,  but  as  it  is  essentially  a  whitewash 
(colored  with  blue  vitriol)  it  discolors  fruits  and 
foliage.  On  ornamental  plants,  therefore,  ammoniacal 
carbonate  of  copper  or  modified  eau  celeste  is  prefer- 
able. Upon  fruits  which  are  nearly  full  grown,  the  Bor- 
deaux mixture  may  also  be  displaced  by  the  other 
fungicides,  if  it  is  necessary  to  spray  at  that  period. 

Almond.  LEAF-BLIGHT  or  ALMOND  DISEASE  (Cercospora  cir- 
cumcissa,  Sacc.).  —  Attacks  the  foliage,  making  perfora- 
tions and  causing  the  leaves  to  fall.  Serious  in  parts  of 
California. 

52 


PLANT-DISEASES.  53 

Remedies.  —  Spray  with  ammoniacal  carbonate  of  cop- 
per, or  modified  eau  celeste  (ammonia  is  added   before 
sal-soda) . 
Apple.     BLIGHT.  —  The  same  disease  as  pear-blight,  which  see. 

BROWN-ROT.  —  See  under  CHERRY. 

POWDERY-MILDEW  (Podosphcera  Oxycanthce,  DeBary).  —  At- 
tacks nursery  stocks,  covering  leaves  with  a  grayish  and 
powdery  meal-like  mildew. 

Remedies. — Bordeaux  mixture,  or  ammoniacal  car- 
bonate of  copper,  applied  four  or  five  times. 

RIPE-ROT  or  BITTER-ROT  (Glceosporium  fructigenum, 
Berk.).  —  A  rot  which  attacks  ripe  apples  and  grapes.  It 
attacks  the  fruit  before  it  is  picked,  usually,  although  it 
may  not  become  apparent  until  it  is  stored.  Many  of  the 
culls  in  packed  fruit  are  due  to  this  fungus. 

Remedies. — Spray  the  fruit  late  in  the  season  (begin- 
ning early  in  August)  with  ammoniacal  carbonate  of 
copper,  or  potassium  sulphide  (£  ounce  to  gallon  of  water). 

RUST  (Species  of  Rwstelia). — Bright  yellow  rust  appearing 
on  the  young  leaves  and  fruit,  causing  the  whole  tree  to 
become  enfeebled.  It  is  now  known  that  one  stage  of  this 
fungus  is  the  "cedar-apple"  which  grows  on  red  cedars 
and  junipers,  where  it  is  known  as  Gymnosporangium. 
Several  species  have  been  described.  Also  attacks  quince. 
Preventive.  —  Destroy  the  cedars  or  keep  them  free  from 
the  "apples."  Destroy  hawthorns  and  escaped  apples, 
which  are  liable  to  be  infested.  Some  varieties  of  apples 
appear  to  be  more  susceptible  to  injury  than  others. 

Remedy.  —  Spray  early  with  Bordeaux  mixture,  as  for 
apple-scab. 

SCAB  (Fusicladium  dendriticum,  Fckl.) .  —  Olive  green,  brown 
or  blackish  sooty  and  scab-like  spots  on  the  leaves  and 
fruit,  arresting  growth  and  causing  the  parts  to  become 
distorted,  and  often  causing  the  very  young  fruit  to  fall. 
Very  common.  When  bad,  the  foliage  looks  brown  and 
dry. 

Remedies.  —  Spray  with  sulphate  of  copper  while  the  trees 


54  HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

are  dormant,  if  apple-scab  is  feared.  Thereafter  spray 
with  Bordeaux  mixture.  The  first  application  of  this 
should  be  made  as  soon  as  the  leaves  appear  and  before  the 
blossoms  open,  and  the  second  as  soon  as  the  blossoms  fall. 
Two  or  three  subsequent  sprayings  may  be  necessary  at 
intervals  of  two  or  three  weeks.  Ammoniacal  carbonate 
of  copper,  applied  as  above,  has  also  given  good  results. 

Apricot.     LEAF-RUST. — See  under  PLUM. 

Aster.  LEAF-RUST  (Coleosporium  Sonchi-arvensis,  L6v.). — 
Orange-colored  spots  or  pimples  on  the  leaves  (chiefly 
underneath)  of  China  Asters,  causing  the  foliage  to  shrivel 
and  die. 

Remedy.  —  Spray  with  Bordeaux  mixture  or  ammoniacal 
carbonate  of  copper. 

Balm  of  Gilead.     LEAF-RUST.  — See  under  POPLAR. 

Bean.  ANTHRACNOSE,  or  POD-RUST  (Colletotrichum  Linde- 
muthianum,  Briosi  and  Cav.).  —  Reddish-brown  scab-like 
spots  appearing  upon  bean-pods,  particularly  upon  the  yel- 
low-podded string-beans.  It  is  said  to  attack  the  water- 
melon, cucumber,  and  other  cucurbits.  The  fungus 
sometimes  lies  dormant  in  bean  seeds  and  destroys  the 
plantlets. 

Preventive. — Plant  in  dry  and  airy  places,  on  light  soil, 
and  avoid  rotations  with  melons,  cucumbers,  etc. 

Remedies.  —  Copper  sprays,  especially  Bordeaux  mixture. 
Sulphur  and  water. 

Be«ui,  Lima.  BLIGHT  (Phytophthora  Phaseoli,  Thaxter). — 
Attacks  the  pods  in  August  and  September,  covering  them 
with  a  white,  felted  coating.  It  also  attacks  the  young 
shoots  and  leaves. 

Remedy. —  Bordeaux  mixture. 

Beet.  LEAF-SPOT  (Cercospora  beticola,  Sacc.).  —  The  trouble 
begins  as  light  or  ash-gray  spots  upon  the  leaves.  Event- 
ually the  leaf  becomes  much  cracked  and  torn.  Common 
in  the  eastern  States. 

Remedies.  —  Bordeaux  mixture.     Burn  diseased  leaves. 
ROOT-ROT    (Phyllosticta    sp.).  — A   coal-black    dry  rot   of 


PLANT-DISEASES.  55 

beets  in  storage.    The  fungus  probably  also  lives  upon  the 
leaves,  making  large  circular  spots. 

Preventives.  —  notation  of  crops.  Be  careful  to  remove 
all  spotted  leaves  when  storing  the  roots. 

Eemedy.  —  For  the  fungus  on  the  leaves  spray  with 
Bordeaux  mixture. 

RUST  (Uromyces  Betce,  Pers.). —Powdery  reddish-brown 
spots  on  the  leaves  of  beets  in  California,  often  doing 
much  injury. 

Remedies.  —  Bordeaux  mixture.  Burn  the  infested 
leaves. 

SCAB  (Oospora  scabies,  Thax.).  —The  fungus  which  causes 
scabby  patches  ;  also  attacks  potatoes. 

Preventive.  —  Do  not  grow  beets   where  potatoes  have 
grown  the  preceding  year  or  two. 
Blackberry.     CANE-RUST    or    ANTHRACNOSE.  —  See    under 

RASPBERRY. 

RED  or  ORANGE-RUST.  — See  under  RASPBERRY. 
Buttonwood.    LEAF-SCORCHING.  — See  under  PLANE-TREE. 
Cabbage.    CLUB-ROOT  or  CLUB-FOOT  (Plasmidiophora  Bras- 
sicce,  Woronin).  —  A  contorted  swelling  of  the  root  of  the 
cabbage  in  the  field,  preventing  the  plant  from  heading  and 
causing  it  to  assume  a  sickly  appearance.    It  also  attacks 
the    cauliflower,   turnip,   and   allied  plants,   and  radish, 
shepherd's-purse,  and  the  common  hedge  mustard. 

Eemedies.  — Burn  the  roots  as  soon  as  the  disease 
appears.  Alternate  crops.  Keep  down  the  weeds  upon 
which  the  disease  breeds.  It  is  thought  that  stable- 
manures  aggravate  the  disease.  Lime  put  upon  the  land, 
75  bushels  to  the  acre,  is  thought  to  be  a  partial  remedy. 
Carnation.  ANTHRACNOSE  (Volutella  sp.). — Attacks  cut- 
tings, and  also  stems  near  the  joints,  making  dirty  brown 
depressed  areas,  marked  with  minute  black  pimples. 

Preventives.  —  Be  careful  to  select  only  perfectly  healthy 
stock  in  propagation,  —  advice  which  also  applies  to  other 
carnation  diseases.  Keep  the  fungus  off  healthy  stock  by 
spraying  with  Bordeaux  mixture. 


56  HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

FAIRY-RING  SPOT  (Heterosporium  echinulatum,  Cooke).  — 
Produces  circular  light-colored  spots  upon  the  leaves. 
The  fungus  grows  centrifugally,  usually  giving  rise  to 
successive  rings  of  light  and  dark  color. 

Preventives.  —  Care  in  selecting  stock.  Bordeaux  mixt- 
ure. 

RUST  (Uromyces  caryophyllinus,  Schr.).  —  Produces  gray 
blisters  upon  the  leaves,  the  spots  finally  rupturing  and 
showing  the  rusty  discoloration  of  the  spores. 

Preventives.  —  Careful  picking  and  burning  of  the  in- 
fected parts  is  one  of  the  surest  preventives  of  further 
attacks.  Spray  with  Bordeaux  mixture. 
SPOT  or  BLIGHT  (Septoria  Dianthi,  Desm.).  —  Attacks  the 
leaves  in  large  brown  or  purplish  spots,  which  have  a 
whitish  centre,  or  occasionally  the  whole  leaf  becomes  dis- 
colored and  wilts.  Sometimes  attacks  the  flower-stems 
and  the  flowers  do  not  open. 

Preventives. —  If  the  disease  is  feared,  be  careful  not  to 
apply  water  to  the  leaves.  Ammoniacal  carbonate  of  cop- 
per or  Bordeaux  mixture.  Burn  all  infested  leaves. 
Celery.  CELERY  LEAF-BLIGHT,  RUST  or  SUN-SCALD  ( Cercospora 
Apii,  Fries).  — Appears  in  hot  and  dry  places  and  seasons, 
about  midsummer.  Small  yellowish  spots  appear  upon 
the  leaves ;  later  the  leaves  turn  yellow,  then  brown,  and 
die. 

Preventives.  — Plant  in  a  moist  and  cool  place,  and  shade 
the  plants  if  necessary.  Destroy  all  diseased  leaves  in 
autumn. 

Eemedy.  —  Spray  with  Bordeaux  mixture  early  in  the 
season,  and  with  ammoniacal  carbonate  of  copper  later  on 
if  continued  treatment  is  necessary. 

Cherry.  BROWN-ROT  (Monilia  fructigena,  Pers.).  —  Attacks 
flowers,  leaves,  and  fruit.  The  flowers  die  and  decay,  the 
leaves  become  discolored  with  brownish  patches,  and  the 
fruit  rots  on  the  tree.  Attacks  also  peaches,  plums,  and 
apples. 

Remedies.  — Burn  all  infested  fruit  and  leaves  in   the 


PLANT-DISEASES.  57 

fall.    Before  buds  expand  in  spring  spray  with  sulphate  of 
iron  or  copper.     When  the  flowers  are  falling,  spray  again 
with  Bordeaux  mixture,  and  thereafter  with  ammoniacal 
carbonate  of  copper  or  modified  eau  celeste,  and  repeat  the 
operation  at  intervals  of  a  week  or  two  until  the  fruit  begins 
to  color.     See  under  PEACH. 
LEAF-RUST.     See  under  PLUM. 
POWDERY-MILDEW.     See  under  APPLE. 

Chrysanthemum.  LEAF-SPOT  (Septoria  sp.). — First  appears 
as  dark  brown  spots  which  increase  hi  size  until  the  leaf 
dies.  Also  causes  cuttings  to  damp  off. 

Eemedy.—  Pick  and  burn  all  diseased  leaves,  and  then 
spray  the  plant  with  Bordeaux  mixture  or  ammoniacal 
carbonate  of  copper. 

Corn.  ROT  or  BURRILL  DISEASE.  —  Due  to  bacteria  (Bacillus 
Cloacae}.  The  plants  are  dwarfed,  and  unusually  slender. 
The  roots  become  mucilaginous  and  decay,  as  do  the  leaf- 
sheaths  and  the  ears. 

No  remedies  or  preventives  are  known,  except  rotation. 
Once  thought  to  cause  a  disease  of  cattle,  but  this  is  now 
disproved. 

SMUT  (Ustilago  Maydis,  DC.). —Attacks  the  ears  and  stalks 
of  corn,  producing  familiar  black  abnormal  growths. 
Preventive.  —  Plant  seed  from  clean  fields. 
Remedies.  —  Cut  out  smut  and  burn  it.     It  is  held  by 
some  that  the  plant  is  infected  from  diseased  seed,  and  that 
soaking  the  seed  in  sulphate  of  copper  or  ammoniacal  car- 
bonate of  copper  is  a  preventive ;  experiments  upon  this 
point  have  thus  far  been  unsatisfactory,  however. 
Cottonwood.    LEAF-RUST.  —  See  under  POPLAR. 
Cranberry.     GALL-FUNGUS  or  RED-RUST  (Synchytrium   Vac- 
cinii,  Thomas).  —  Minute  red  galls  or  pimples  upon  the 
leaves,  flowers,  and  stems,  causing  the  parts  to  become 
misshapen  and  dwarfed. 

Remedies.  — Burn  the  infested  plants  and  also  wild  plants 
about  the  bog,  which  are  infested.  Withholding  the  water 
from  the  bog  in  winter  and  spring  may  subdue  it. 


58  HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

SCALD.  —  Attacking  the  fruit  early  in  the  season,  at  first  pro- 
ducing a  scalded  appearance,  and  later  decay. 

Remedies.  —  Sanding  or  earthing  the  bog  an  inch  deep, 
and  keeping  water  off  in  summer,  are  partial  remedies. 
Cucumber.     BLIGHT. — A  bacterial  trouble,  causing  the  entire 
vine,  or  a  branch  of  it,  to  droop  and  die.    No  remedy  is 
known. 

MILDEW  (Erysiphe  Cichoracearum,  DC.). — A  white  mold- 
like  mildew  which  appears  in  spots  upon  the  upper  surface 
of  the  leaves  of  cucumbers,  especially  under  glass. 

Remedies. — Evaporated  sulphur.     Spray  with  ammoni- 
acal  carbonate  of  copper. 
POWDERY  MILDEW.  — See  under  MUSKMELON. 
Currant.     ANTHRACNOSE    (Glceosporium  Ribis,  M.   &  D.).  — 
Small,  dark  brown  or  blackish  spots  chiefly  on  the  upper  sur- 
face of  the  leaves,  but  within  the  tissues.    The  cuticle  over 
the  spots  is  pushed  up,  giving  the  spots  a  whitish  blister-like 
appearance.     The  leaves  finally  turn  yellow,  and  they  fall 
in  July  and  August. 

Preventive.  — Thorough  application  of  Bordeaux  mixture. 
RUST  or  LEAF-SPOT  (Septoria  Ribis,  Desm.).  —  Appears 
about  midsummer,  on  leaves  of  white,  red,  and  black 
currants,  as  whitish  spots  with  black  centres.  It  causes 
the  leaves  to  fall.  Another  spot  disease  is  caused  by  Cerco- 
spora  angulata,  Wint. 

Remedies. — Destroy  infested  leaves.  Spraying  with 
Bordeaux  mixture  and  carbonate  of  copper,  as  for  grape- 
rot. 

Damping-off.  —  A  term  applied  to  the  decay  of  young  seed- 
lings and  cuttings  at  or  near  the  surface  of  the  ground. 
The  trouble  is  undoubtedly  due  to  a  great  variety  of 
causes,  but  it  is  thought  to  be  oftenest  the  work  of  fungi, 
particularly  Artotrogus  DeBaryanus.  Phytophthora  Cacto- 
rum  (or  Pythium  omnivorum)  causes  a  similar  disease  of 
small  seedling  trees.  It  is  probably  sometimes  due  to  some 
fungus  which  exists  in  the  seed,  and  in  such  cases  —  if  they 
could  be  determined  —  soaking  the  seed  in  carbonate  of 


PLANT-DISEASES.  59 

copper  is  to  be  recommended  (see  BEAN).  Other  diseases, 
much  like  damping-off  in  general  external  characters,  seem 
to  be  due  to  bacteria.  A  confined  atmosphere,  compact 
and  wet  soil,  favor  damping-off. 

Preventives  and  Remedies. — Ventilate  the  cutting  or 
seed-beds,  do  not  let  the  plants  crowd,  and  do  not  keep 
very  wet,  and  keep  the  soil  equally  moist  throughout  its 
depth,  and  the  surface  dry.  When  the  trouble  appears 
among  valuable  plants,  the  healthy  ones  should  be  trans- 
planted into  fresh  soil.  Dusting  the  soil  with  sulphur,  and 
sifting  upon  it  and  the  plants  very  hot  clean  sand  are  to  be 
recommended. 

Dropsy.  —  See  (EDEMA. 

Gooseberry.  MILDEW  (Sphcerotheca  Mors-uvce,  B.  &  C.).  —  A 
downy  mildew  attacking  the  fruits  and  young  growth  of 
English  varieties  of  gooseberry  (varieties  of  Ribes  Grossu- 
laria). 

Remedies.  —  Potassium  sulphide  (liver  of  sulphur),  £ 
ounce  to  a  gallon  of  water  is  a  sure  remedy,  if  applied  as 
soon  as  the  leaves  begin  to  unfold,  and  at  intervals  of  two  or 
three  weeks  thereafter.  Bordeaux  mixture  is  equally  good. 

Grape.  ANTHRACNOSE  or  SCAB  (Sphaceloma  Ampelinum,  De 
Bary).  —  The  fungus  attacks  the  leaves,  where  it  forms 
definite  brown  spots,  and  also  the  young  shoots  and  the 
fruits,  where  it  forms  pits  or  scabs.  Generally  distributed 
east  of  the  Mississippi.  Probably  introduced  from  Europe. 
Remedies.  —  It  is  difficult  to  combat.  Before  growth 
starts,  cut  out  and  burn  affected  canes  and  then  spray 
plants  and  trellises  with  a  saturated  solution  of  sulphate  of 
iron.  After  the  leaves  open,  use  Bordeaux  mixture  to  pre- 
vent new  attacks. 

BLACK-HOT  (Lcestadia  Bidwellii,  V.  &  R. ;  Phoma  uvicola, 
B.  &  C.).  — Attacks  nearly  full-grown  berries.  The  fruit 
becomes  black,  hard,  dry,  and  shrivelled,  and  is  covered  with 
minute  pimples.  Occurs  east  of  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
especially  southwards.  Of  American  origin. 

Preventive. — A  board  placed  over  the  trellis,  as  men- 


60  HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

tioned  under  the  downy  mildew,  is  some  protection ;  but 
the  spray  is  sure. 

Remedies. — Burn  infested  fruits  in  autumn.  If  an 
attack  is  feared,  spray  with  a  plain  solution  of  sulphate  of 
iron  or  copper  before  the  buds  swell.  Thereafter  use 
Bordeaux  mixture  or  ammoniacal  carbonate  of  copper,  at 
intervals  of  10  to  15  days,  continuing  for  five  or  six  applica- 
tions if  necessary.  The  first  spraying  is  made  just  before 
the  blossoms  open.  Perhaps  the  best  method  is  to  use 
Bordeaux  mixture  for  the  first  applications,  and  ammo- 
niacal carbonate  of  copper  for  the  last  one  or  two,  as  this 
removes  the  danger  of  discoloring  the  grapes  by  the 
Bordeaux  mixture.  Very  good  results  are  obtained  by 
the  continuous  use  of  the  carbonate  of  copper,  and  it  is 
applied  more  easily  than  the  Bordeaux  mixture. 

The  cost  of  spraying  grapes  six  times  during  the  season, 
including  the  cost  of  the  chemicals,  is  estimated  at  two 
cents  per  vine  for  ammoniacal  carbonate  of  copper  and 
three  cents  for  Bordeaux  mixture.  These  figures  assume 
that  the  best  appliances  are  used,  and  that  the  plantation 
is  a  half  acre  or  more  in  extent,  and  that  the  copper  carbo- 
nate costs  not  to  exceed  40  cents  per  pound  and  the  copper 
sulphate  not  to  exceed  6  cents  per  pound. 

NOTE. — The  following  are  synonyms  for  black-rot: 
Sphceria  Bidwellii,  Physalospora  Bidwellii,  Phoma  uvicola, 
Phoma  uvicola  var.  Labruscce,  Sphceropsis  uvarum,  Phoma 
uvarum,  Nemaspora  ampelicida,  Phyllosticta  Labruscce  (the 
"leaf -spot"  form),  Phyllosticta  viticola,  Phoma  ustulatum, 
Phyllosticta  ampelopsidis,  Sacidium  viticolum,  Septoria 
viticola,  Ascochyta  Ellisii. 

CALIFORNIA  VINE-DISEASE.  —  An  obscure  disease,  probably 
of  fungous  or  bacterial  origin,  causing  the  leaves  to  assume 
red  or  yellow  markings  and  discolored  edges ;  the  canes 
make  a  short  growth  and  become  discolored  and  shed 
their  leaves  early,  and  the  berries  shrivel  and  dry  up  or 
sometimes  fall.  The  leaves  usually  curl  more  or  less. 
Remedies  are  unknown. 


PLANT-DISEASES.  61 

DOWNY  MILDEW,  BROWN-ROT,  GRAY-HOT  (Peronospora 
viticola,  De  Bary).  —  Appears  in  small  frost-like  patches 
on  the  under  surface  of  the  leaves,  and  causes  yellowish 
discoloration  on  the  upper  surface.  It  also  produces  the 
brown-rot  and  the  gray-rot  of  the  fruit.  The  young  ber- 
ries remain  small  and  firm,  usually  not  wrinkled,  being  at 
first  gray  in  color,  while  the  older  ones  become  brown. 
The  disease  is  worst  on  thin  and  smooth-leaved  varieties, 
as  the  Delaware  and  others.  It  extends  generally  through- 
out N.  America.  Of  American  origin. 

Preventive. — A  wide  board  nailed  flatwise  on  the  top  of 
the  trellis  so  as  to  protect  the  vines  somewhat,  as  with 
a  roof,  is  a  considerable  protection,  as  it  tends  to  keep 
the  vines  dry.  Vines  trained  against  a  building  rarely 
suffer. 
Remedies.  — The  same  as  for  black-rot,  which  see. 

POWDERY  MILDEW  (Uncinula  spiralis,  B.  &  C.). — Appears 
early  in  the  season  as  delicate  dust-like  patches  or  covering 
on  the  leaves,  mostly  on  the  upper  surface,  and  on  shoots 
and  fruits.  Berries  attacked  by  it  become  checked  in 
growth,  and  may  remain  small  and  die,  or  they  sometimes 
grow  and  crack  before  death  ensues.  It  attacks  grapes  in 
vineries  whfch  are  not  properly  ventilated  and  managed. 
Occurs  generally  throughout  the  Union,  but  is  less  destruc- 
tive than  the  downy  mildew.  American  origin. 

Remedies.  —  Dry  sulphur  applied  to  the  vines,  two  or  three 
times  —  once  when  the  shoots  just  begin  to  push,  again 
when  in  blossom,  and  usually  again  shortly  before  the 
grapes  begin  to  turn.  Apply  in  warm  and  bright  weather, 
after  the  dew  is  off.  In  vineries,  the  sulphur  may  be  scat- 
tered on  the  hot  pipes.  Any  of  the  sprays  of  copper  com- 
pounds are  specifics,  and  are  to  be  recommended  for  use  in 
vineyards  suffering  from  the  disease,  in  preference  to  sul- 
phur. 

RATTLES.  — A  shelling  of  the  grapes  from  tlie  cluster  when 
they  are  nearly  ripe.  Particularly  serious  in  western  New 
York.  It  is  supposed  to  be  due  largely  to  lack  of  available 


62  HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

potash  in  the  soil.     Other  uncongenial  conditions  of  soil 
and  climate  may  aggravate  it. 

RIPE-ROT  (Glwosporium  fructigenum,  Berk.).  —  See  under 
APPLE.  The  treatment  for  black-rot  is  efficacious  for  this. 

Hollyhock.  RUST  (Puccinia  Malvacearum,  Mont.). — Ap- 
pears upon  leaves  of  hollyhocks  and  a  few  related  plants 
in  small,  light  brown  patches.  Introduced  from  Europe, 
and  becoming  common  in  this  country. 

Remedies.  —  To  destroy  the  plants  is  the  only  general 
method  yet  employed  to  prevent  the  spread  of  the  disease, 
but  spraying  early  with  Bordeaux  mixture  is  to  be  advised. 

Lettuce.  MILDEW  (Peronospora  gangliformis,  De  Bary).  — 
A  delicate  mildew,  attacking  lettuce-leaves  and  causing 
yellow  or  brown  spots,  and  finally  killing  the  leaf. 

Preventives.  (According  to  Maynard.)  —  Grow  at  a  low 
temperature  (35°  to  40°  at  night,  50°  to  70°  during  day) ; 
give  abundance  of  plant-food;  give  abundance  of  water, 
but  apply  it  in  morning  and  bright  days  only  ;  avoid  sudden 
extreme  changes  of  temperature. 
Remedy.  —  Fumes  of  sulphur. 

ROT  (Botrytis  vulgaris,  Fries.) .  —  Forced  lettuce  often  rots 
down,  particularly  the  heading  varieties.  The  fungus 
which  causes  the  rot  lives  in  manure  and  decaying  matter. 
If  manure  is  used,  mix  it  well  with  the  soil,  keep  the  soil 
stirred  on  top  and  avoid  keeping  it  too  wet.  Spreads  most 
rapidly  in  a  moist,  confined  atmosphere. 

Maple.  LEAF-SPOT  (Phyllosticta  acericola,  C.  &  E. ).  —  Attacks 
the  leaves  of  red,  silver,  and  striped  maples  in  spring,  caus- 
ing them  to  become  spotted  and  unsightly,  and  lessening 
the  vigor  of  the  tree. 

Remedies.  —  Rake  and  burn  the  leaves  in  autumn.  When 
the  leaves  are  two-thirds  grown  spray  with  Bordeaux  mix- 
ture, and  repeat  every  three  or  four  weeks  as  long  as 
necessary. 

Moss  or  Lichens  on  trees  is  readily  removed  by  spraying  with 
Bordeaux  mixture,  or  strong  alkaline  washes.  (See  Chap. 
VI.) 


PLANT-DISEASES.  63 

Muskmelon.  POWDERY  MILDEW  (Plasmopara  Cubensis,  B. 
£  C.).  — Attacks  the  leaves  of  the  melon,  cucumber,  water- 
melon, and  pumpkin.  It  causes  large,  angular  discolorations 
upon  the  upper  surface  of  the  leaf,  and  violet,  frost-like 
patches  beneath.  Badly  affected  leaves  become  ragged. 

Remedy. — Bordeaux  mixture. 

Other  leaf-diseases  are  frequent  upon  the  muskmelon. 
Nursery  Stock.  — Various  leaf  fungi  attack  young  trees  in  nur- 
sery rows,  causing  the  foliage  to  blight  and  sometimes  to  fall. 

Preventives.  —  Good  tillage  and  well-drained  soil.  Strong 
stock. 

Remedy.  —  Spray  with  Bordeaux  mixture. 
GFJdema  or  Dropsy  is  a  disorder  of  various  plants  under  glass, 
as  tomatoes,  violets,  geraniums,  which  have  insufficient  sun- 
light, stimulating  temperature  and  soil,  and  too  much  moist- 
ure. It  has  also  been  observed  on  twigs  of  the  apple.  It 
is  usually  indicated  by  elevated  corky  or  spongy  points  or 
masses,  much  resembling  fungous  injury.  The  leaves  curl. 
The  only  remedy  is  to  improve  the  conditions  under  which 
the  plant  grows. 

Onion.  RUST  (Peronospora  Schleideniana,  Unger). — The 
leaves  turn  yellow  about  the  time  the  onions  begin  to  bot- 
tom, or  a  little  later,  and  wilt  and  die. 

Remedies.  —  Grow  on  land  not  infected,  and  destroy  all 
affected  onions.    Spray  early  with  copper  fungicides. 
SMUT  (Urocystis  Cepulce,  Frost).  —  Attacks  the  first  leaf  or 
leaves  of  seedling  onions,  producing  dark,  irregular  spots, 
and  killing  or  weakening  the  plants. 

Remedy.  —  The  sulphur  and  lime  mixture  drilled  into  the 
ground  with  the  seed,  about  an  ounce  of  the  mixture  to 
50  feet  of  drill. 

Orange.  ORANGE-LEAF  SCAB  (Cladosporium) .  —  The  leaves 
become  yellow  and  distorted. 

Remedies.  —  Spray  with  copper  fungicides,  or  carbolic  acid 
and  glycerine  mixture. 

Pansy.  RUST  (Peronospora  Violce,  De  Bary). — Blackish  or 
brown  spots  upon  the  leaves. 


64  HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

Remedies.  —  Bordeaux  mixture  or  ammoniacal  carbonate 
of  copper. 

Pea.  MILDEW  (Erysiphe  Martii,  L6v.).  —  A  whitish  fungus 
overspreading  the  foliage  of  peas,  particularly  the  late 
crops. 

Remedies.  —  Try  Bordeaux  mixture  or  ammoniacal  carbo- 
nate of  copper. 

Peach.  BLACK-SPOT  (Cladosporium  carpophilum,  Thm.). — 
Sooty-black  scab-like  patches  upon  the  fruit,  causing  it  to 
crack  deeply.  Some  varieties,  as  Hill's  Chili,  are  very 
liable  to  attack. 

Remedies.  — Probably  spraying  with  dilute  Bordeaux  mix- 
ture, or  ammoniacal  carbonate  of  copper,  would  be  useful. 

BROWN-ROT.  —  See  under  CHERRY. 

CURL,  LEAF-CURL  or  'TRENCHING"  (Exoascus  deformans, 
Fuckl.  ;  written  also  Ascomyces  deformans  and  Taphrina 
deformans).  —  The  leaves  become  blistered  and  crumpled 
early  in  the  season  and  fall  off. 

Remedies.  —  Good  culture,  to  enable  the  tree  to  put 
forth  new  leaves,  is  to  be  recommended.  Spray  in  spring, 
before  the  buds  open,  with  sulphate  of  copper  or  iron,  and 
follow  with  two  or  three  applications  of  Bordeaux  mixture. 

LEAF-RUST.  —  See  under  PLUM. 

POWDERY  MILDEW.  —  See  under  APPLE.  Spray  with  weak 
Bordeaux  mixture.  Attacks  both  foliage  and  fruit  of  the 
peach. 

ROOT-GALL  and  ROOT-KNOT.  — See  entries  under  R,  Chap.  II. 

ROSETTE.  —  An  obscure  southern  disease  of  peach  trees 
and  some  kinds  of  plums,  characterized  by  bunchy  growths 
containing  very  many  rolled  and  yellowish  leaves  which 
fall  prematurely.  The  tree  dies  the  first  or  second  year. 
There  is  no  premature  fruit,  as  in  yellows.  It  is  often  ac- 
companied by  gummosis  of  the  roots.  The  disease  is 
communicable  by  budding,  and  it  may  enter  through  the 
roots.  All  affected  trees  should  be  exterminated.  Known 
in  South  Carolina,  Georgia,  Kansas,  and  Arkansas. 

ROT  and  BLIGHT  (Monilia  fructigena,  Pers.).  — This  is  the 


PLANT-DISEASES.  65 

familiar  quick  rotting  of  peaches  when  nearly  ripe  or  after 
they  are  picked,  and  the  same  fungus  causes  the  blighting 
of  young  shoots.  It  also  destroys  the  flowers,  and  its 
injury  may  then  be  mistaken  for  effects  of  frost.  It  also 
attacks  plums,  cherries,  apricots,  and  to  a  smaller  extent 
apples  and  pears.  The  rotted  fruits  sometimes  dry  up  and 
hang  on  the  tree  all  winter.  In. such  cases,  the  fruit  spur 
is  apt  to  be  killed  by  the  fungus.  Partial  to  some  varieties. 

Preventives.  —  Burn  or  bury  all  affected  fruits  as  soon  as 
they  appear.  In  wet  weather,  when  peaches  are  rotting 
badly  on  the  tree,  systematic  attempts  should  be  made  to 
pick  and  destroy  the  injured  fruits.  Burning  or  ploughing 
under  the  leaves  in  the  fall  is  to  be  recommended.  Before 
the  leaves  appear,  spray  with  some  copper  compound,  as 
sulphate  of  copper  or  Bordeaux  mixture,  and  spray  there- 
after several  times.  It  is  said  that  harvested  fruit  can  be 
preserved  for  a  short  time  against  the  fungus  by  dipping  it 
in  a  solution  of  potassium  sulphide  (liver  of  sulphur). 
YELLOWS.  —  A  fatal  disease  of  peaches;  also  attacks  nectar- 
ine, almond,  apricot,  and  Japanese  plum.  Cause  un- 
known. The  first  symptom  in  bearing  trees  is  usually  the 
premature  ripening  of  the  fruit.  This  fruit  contains  defi- 
nite small  red  spots  which  extend  towards  the  pit.  The 
second  stage  is  usually  the  appearance  of  "tips,"  or  short, 
late,  second  growths  upon  the  ends  of  healthy  twigs,  and 
which  are  marked  by  small,  horizontal,  usually  yellowish, 
leaves.  The  next  stage  is  indicated  by  very  slender  shoots, 
which  branch  the  first  year  and  which  start  in  tufts  from 
the  old  limbs,  bearing  narrow  and  small  yellowish  leaves. 
Later  the  entire  foliage  becomes  smaller  and  yellow.  In 
three  to  six  years  the  tree  dies.  The  disease  spreads  from 
tree  to  tree.  It  attacks  trees  of  any  age.  Known  at  pres- 
ent only  in  regions  east  of  the  Mississippi.  Peculiar  to 
America,  so  far  as  known. 

Preventive. — Pull  up  and  burn  all  trees  as  soon   as 
the  disease  appears.     Trees  may  be  reset  in  the  places 
from  which  the  yellows  trees  were  taken.     Laws  aiming  to 
F 


66  HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

suppress  the  disease  should  be  enacted  in  all  peach-growing 
States. 

Pear.  BLIGHT  (Micrococcus  amylovorus,  Burrill).  —  A  very 
serious  bacterial  disease.  The  microbes  work  in  the  young 
wood,  causing  it  to  die.  The  bark  becomes  brown  and 
sunken  over  the  diseased  parts.  The  death  of  the  shoots 
causes  the  leaves  to  die.  The  disease  is  readily  distin- 
guished from  the  leaf-blight  in  the  fact  that  the  leaves  are 
equally  brown  and  discolored  over  their  entire  surface, 
and  they  become  dry  and  hang  on  the  tree.  The  disease 
enters  through  growing  points,  probably  largely  through 
the  blossoms,  and  it  proceeds  rather  slowly  down  the  twig. 
If  short  twigs  or  spurs  along  the  trunk  or  large  branches 
are  attacked,  the  disease  frequently  spreads  in  the  large 
branch,  showing  as  a  sunken  patch,  and  it  may  girdle  the 
branch  and  thereby  cut  off  food  supply  to  the  points 
beyond.  Generally  distributed  east  of  the  100th  meridian. 
Known  only  in  America.  Attacks  the  apple  and  quince. 

Preventives.  —  Some  varieties,  like  Duchess,  Lawrence, 
and  Kieffer,  are  partially  immune.  See  that  useless  spurs 
or  sprouts  do  not  grow  upon  the  trunk  or  large  branches. 

Bemedy.  —  As  soon  as  the  disease  is  discovered,  cut  off 
the  affected  parts  a  foot  below  the  point  of  lowest  visible 
attack,  and  burn  them.  A  tree  which  has  been  seriously 
mutilated  may  be  top-grafted  the  following  year. 
LEAF-BLIGHT  and  CRACKING  OF  THE  FRUIT  (Entomosporium 
maculatum,  L6v. ;  Morthiera  Mespili  is  the  same). — 
Attacks  nursery-stocks  of  pears,  beginning  as  small  and 
circular  brown  spots  on  the  leaves ;  soon  the  entire  leaf 
turns  brown  and  falls.  Also  causes  the  cracking  of  the 
fruit,  being  particularly  serious  upon  some  varieties, 
such  as  Flemish  Beauty,  Seckel,  and  Virgalieu  (White 
Doyenne). 

Remedies.  —  Bordeaux  mixture,  eau  celeste  (2),  orarnmo- 
niacal  carbonate  of  copper,  applied  four  or  five  times. 
Begin  when  the  leaves  are  half-grown,  and  follow  at  inter- 
vals of  from  two  to  four  weeks.  The  Bordeaux  is  now 


PLANT-DISEASES.  67 

most  commonly  used,   and  is  a  specific  when  properly 
applied. 

ROOT-ROT  (Polyporus  versicolor,  Fries).  —  Attacks  the  roots, 
the  white  and  felt-like  threads  of  the  fungus  at  length 
becoming  very  abundant  and  conspicuous.  The  trees 
produce  a  short  and  thick  growth,  the  new  wood  being 
reddish,  the  leaves  becoming  yellowish  or  bronzed,  and 
there  is  an  unusual  tendency  to  form  fruit-buds.  The  tree 
may  die  quickly  or  may  live  for  several  years.  The  roots 
rot  away  and  the  tree  tips  over.  The  disease  is  worst  on 
poor  and  dry  soils  and  in  grassy  orchards. 

Eemedies.  —  Give  good  culture.  Remove  the  earth  from 
the  crown  and  apply  a  dressing  of  lime. 

RUST.  —  See  under  APPLE. 

SCAB  (Fusicladium  pyrinum,  Fuckl.). — Brown  or  blackish 
scab-like  spots  on  the  leaves  and  fruit,  arresting  the  growth 
and  causing  the  parts  to  become  distorted. 

Remedy.  —  Spray  several  times  during  May,  June,  and 
July  with  Bordeaux  mixture,  the  same  as  for  apple-scab. 
Plane-Tree.  LEAP-SCORCHING  (Grlceosporium  nervisequum, 
Sacc. ) .  —  Attacks  the  leaves  in  spring,  causing  them  to 
appear  as  if  scorched.  They  finally  fall  off.  Attacks  both 
the  native  and  oriental  planes. 

Remedies.  — Burn  all  leaves  when  they  fall.     Spray  with 
copper  compounds. 
Plum.     BROWN-ROT.  —  See  under  CHERRY. 

LEAF-BLIGHT  or  SHOT-HOLE  FUNGUS  ( Cylindrosporium  Padi 
or  Septoria  cerasina,  Peck). — Appears  as  spots  upon  the 
leaves  in  July,  and  these  spots  assume  definite  outlines, 
and  often  fall  out,  leaving  holes  like  shot-holes.  The  leaves 
fall  early,  preventing  the  fruit  from  maturing.  The  disease 
is  sometimes  designated  simply  "Falling  of  the  leaves." 
Very  serious.  Some  varieties  are  very  liable  to  attack. 

Remedies.  — Bordeaux  mixture,  modified  eau  celeste,  or 
ammoniacal  carbonate  of  copper  applied  several  times  dur- 
ing the  season,  beginning  as  soon  as  the  leaves  appear. 

LEAF-RUST  (Puccinia  Pruni-spinosce,  Pers.).  —  Small,  round, 


68  HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

powdery  spots  of  yellowish  brown  on  the  under  surface  of 
the  leaves,  and  reddish  spots  on  the  upper  surface  directly 
above  them. 

Remedies. — Spray  trees  early  in  the  season  with  Bordeaux 
mixture,  aminoniacal  carbonate  of  copper,  eau  celeste  (2), 
or  other  fungicides. 

PLUM-KNOT  or  PLUM- WART  (Plowrightia  ^Sphceria']  morbosa, 
Sacc.).  —  A  black  and  irregular  swelling,  from  one  to  five 
or  six  inches  long,  appearing  on  the  small  limbs  of  plum 
and  cherry.  The  point  of  attack  is  generally  in  the  crotch 
of  young  shoots  or  at  the  junction  of  the  annual  growths. 
Peculiar  to  America.  A  very  serious  disease. 

Remedies. — Burn  all  affected  parts  in  the  fall.  If  the 
knot  is  found  upon  a  large  limb  or  trunk,  cut  it  out  and 
wash  the  wound  with  sulphate  of  copper.  Wash  the  parts 
as  soon  as  the  swelling  begins  to  appear,  with  linseed  oil, 
turpentine,  or  kerosene,  using  the  two  latter  with  cau- 
tion. A  paint  of  red  oxide  of  iron  hi  linseed  oil  has  been 
recommended.  Spraying  with  Bordeaux  mixture  in  early 
spring  and  during  the  summer  will  prevent  attacks.  There 
should  be  laws  in  every  State  aimed  at  the  destruction  of 
the  knot. 

PLUM-POCKETS  or  BLADDERS  (Exoascus  Pruni,  Fuckl.). — 
Causes  the  fruit  to  become  inflated  and  hollow.  These 
"  bladders  "  begin  to  appear  soon  after  the  flowers  fall,  and 
continue  to  grow  for  several  months,  when  they  fall.  They 
are  at  first  globular,  but  finally  become  oblong,  often  reach- 
ing two  inches  in  length.  Similar  fungi  attack  the  fruit  of 
the  Chickasaw  and  American  plums,  and  various  species  of 
plum  and  cherry. 

Remedies.  — Destroy  the  "bladders  "  before  they  mature, 
together  with  small  portions  of  the  wood  on  which  they  are 
borne.  Spray  before  buds  expand  with  strong  sulphate  of 
copper  or  iron,  and  follow  with  copper  fungicides. 

POWDERY  MILDEW.  —  See  under  APPLE. 

ROT  or  BLIGHT.  —  See  under  PEACH. 
Poplar.  LEAF-RUST  (Melampsorapopulina,  Le"v.).  — An  orange 


PLANT-DISEASES.  69 

rust  attacking,  during  summer,  the  leaves  of  various  species 
of  poplar,  including  the  cottonwood,  balm  of  Gilead,  etc. 

Remedies.  —  Bake  and  burn  the  leaves.  Spray  with 
copper  compounds. 

Potato.  EARLY  BLIGHT.  (Probably  caused  by  Macrosporium 
Solani,  E.  &  M.). — A  blight  of  the  foliage,  appearing 
rather  early  in  the  season,  generally  before  August.  The 
leaves  become  yellowish  and  sickly  and  are  marked  with 
small  fungous  patches.  Progresses  slowly.  Does  not 
attack  the  tubers.  Associated  with  flea-beetle  attacks. 

Remedy.  —  Bordeaux  mixture. 

POTATO-HOT  or  BLIGHT,  LATE  BLIGHT  (Phytophthora  infes- 
tans,  De  Bary). — The  spores  first  germinate  upon  the 
tops  or  vines,  causing  the  foliage  to  become  marked  with 
very  large  blotches,  which  generally  cover  a  third  or  more 
of  the  leaflet.  Progresses  rapidly.  The  disease  soon 
spreads  to  the  tubers,  causing  discolored  and  diseased 
potatoes.  It  is  a  "  dry  rot."  The  fungus  may  remain  in 
the  tubers  during  winter. 

Preventives.  —  Plant  on  light  or  loamy,  well-drained  soil. 
Plant  only  sound  and  disinfected  tubers.  Hill  deep. 

Remedy.  —  Spray  the  tops  with  Bordeaux  mixture,  or 
other  fungicide,  upon  the  first  indication  of  the  blight,  and 
make  three  or  more  applications  at  intervals  of  ten  days 
or  two  weeks. 

The  tubers  should  be  stored  in  a  cool  and  dry  place. 
Dusting  them  in  the  cellar  with  dry  air-slaked  lime  is  to  be 
recommended.  Subjecting  the  tubers  to  a  temperature  of 
105°  to  110°  for  a  few  days  will  destroy  the  fungus  and  will 
not  injure  the  tubers  for  planting. 

There  is  another  kind  of  potato  blight  and  rot  widely 
distributed  over  the  country,  and  probably  due  to  a  germ 
or  bacterium.  The  leaves  curl,  the  plant  droops  and  finally 
dies,  and  the  tubers  contract  a  putrid  rot.  Very  serious. 
No  remedy  is  known.  Practise  rotation. 
SCAB  (Oospora  scabies,  Thax.). — Well-known  scabby  and 
pitted  roughness  of  potato  tubers.  The  same  fungus  is 


70  HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

supposed  to  attack  beets.  Lime  or  ashes  added  to  soil  in 
which  scabby  potatoes  have  been  grown,  increases  the  dis- 
ease, probably  by  modifying  the  acidity  of  the  soil. 

Preventives.  —  Do  not  plant  upon  land  which  has  grown 
scabby  potatoes.  Plant  clean  seed.  Cook  scabby  potatoes 
or  beets  before  feeding  them  to  stock  to  prevent  dissemina- 
tion of  the  fungus  in  the  manure.  Dig  suspected  tubers  as 
soon  as  they  are  ripe,  to  check  the  deepening  of  the  scabs. 
If  scabby  seed  is  planted,  soak  it  in  corrosive  sublimate 
(1^  hours  in  2  ounces  sublimate  to  16  gallons  water),  or 
Bordeaux  mixture.  Corrosive  sublimate  is  probably  the 
better  remedy.  Spraying  the  open  furrows,  before  covering 
the  tubers,  is  also  useful. 

Pumpkin.     POWDERY  MILDEW.  —  See  under  MUSKMELON. 

Quince.  BLACK-ROT  (Sphceropsis  Malorum,  Peck).— A 
trouble  which  usually  appears  at  the  blossom  end  of  young 
quinces,  causing  the  fruit  to  perish  with  a  black,  dry  rot. 
Also  attacks  the  apple  and  pear. 

Remedy.  —  Spray  with  Bordeaux  mixture. 
BLIGHT.  —  See  under  PEAR. 

LEAF-BLIGHT  and  FRUIT-SPOT  (Entomosporium  maculatum, 
L6v.).  —  Leaves  become  spotted  and  then  turn  yellow  and 
fall.  The  fruits  also  become  spotted  with  sunken  brownish 
or  black  scab-like  patches.  This  disease  often  causes  con- 
siderable damage.  It  is  the  same  as  the  leaf-blight  of  the 
pear,  which  see. 
RUST.  — See  under  APPLE. 

Raspberry.  CANE-RUST  or  ANTHRACNOSE  (Glceosporium  neca- 
tor,  E.  &  E.).  —  The  spots  or  patches  of  fungus  appear 
on  both  the  canes  and  leaves.  The  disease  attacks  the 
base  of  the  canes  first  and  spreads  upwards.  It  makes 
sunken  patches  on  the  canes  and  causes  the  fruit  to 
dry  up. 

Preventives.  —  Give  plants  an  abundance  of  light  and 
air  by  broad  planting  and  high  training.  In  pruning  out 
the  young  shoots,  select  those  which  are  the  most  diseased 
and  burn  them.  Frequent  rotation  —  not  fruiting  the  plan- 


PLANT-DISEASES.  71 

tation  after  the  disease  appears  —  is  a  most  satisfactory 
procedure. 

Eemedies.  —  Spray  before  the  buds  swell  with  sulphate 
of  iron,  and  follow  later  with  Bordeaux  mixture  or  ammo- 
niacal  carbonate  of  copper.  Spraying  has  never  been  very 
successful  with  this  disease,  but  frequent  applications  ought 
to  keep  the  fungus  off.  Burn  all  canes  that  are  past  re- 
covery. 

RED  or  ORANGE-RUST  (Cceoma  luminatum,  Link).  —  Attacks 
the  under  surface  of  the  leaves  of  black  and  sometimes  red 
raspberries,  and  of  blackberries,  in  patches  of  whitish  yel- 
low, but  the  fungus  finally  covers  the  whole  under  surface 
with  an  orange-red  coating.  One  form  of  the  fungus  is  a 
leaf-rust  generally  known  as  Puccinia  Peckiana. 

Preventives.  —  Plant  such  varieties  as  are  least  susceptible 
to  attack.  Among  blackberries,  Kittatinny  is  particularly 
susceptible.  Rotation. 

.Remedy.  —  Burn  the  plants,  roots  and  branch,  as  soon 
as  the  disease  appears. 

Rose.  LEAF-BLIGHT  or  BLACK-SPOT  (Actinonemafiosce,  Fries). 
—  Attacks  the  full-grown  leaves,  first  appearing  as  small 
black  spots,  but  later  covering  nearly  or  quite  the  whole 
surface  with  blotches.  The  spots  have  frayed  edges.  Com- 
mon in  outdoor  and  house  culture. 

Eemedies.  —  In  the  house,  fumes  of  sulphur  or  copper 
sprays.  Outdoors,  burn  the  affected  leaves  and  spray  with 
Bordeaux  mixture  or  ammoniacal  carbonate  of  copper. 
Spray  before  the  leaves  unfold. 

LEAF-SPOT  (Cercospora  roscecola,  Pass.).  —Black  or  reddish 
black  spots  on  the  leaves,  shading  into  red  at  the  definite 
edges.  Later  the  centre  of  the  spot  becomes  light  brown 
or  gray.  Attacks  plants  growing  outdoors. 

Eemedies. — Burn  diseased  parts.  Spray  with  copper 
fungicides. 

MILDEW  (Sphcerotheca  pannosa,  Lev.).  —  Whitish  mildew 
attacking  roses.  It  is  brought  on,  according  to  Maynard, 
by  exposure  to  drafts  of  extremely  cold  air  when  the 


72  HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

plants  are  growing  rapidly,  by  high  temperature  running 
the  same  day  and  night,  by  watering  just  before  night,  by 
too  little  water,  by  extreme  dryness,  by  poor  drainage,  by 
deficiency  in  plant-food. 

Remedies.  —  Fumes  of  sulphur.     Copper  fungicides. 

RUST  (Phragmidium  mucronatum,  Winter).  —  Appears  in 
small  and  scattered  bright  yellow  spots  or  pustules  on  the 
leaves,  which  at  length  become  distorted,  and  upon  the 
young  growth. 

Remedy.  —  Spray  with  Bordeaux  mixture  or  other  fungi- 
cides. 

Spinage. — Several  fungi  attack  the  spinage,  of  which  the  fol- 
lowing are  the  worst : 

ANTHRACNOSE  (Colletotrichum  /Spinacece,  Ell.  &  Hals.). — 
Producing  brown  and  gray  blotches  upon  the  leaves  ; 

LEAF-BLIGHT  (Phyllosticta  Chenopodii,  Sacc.). — Forming 
many  minute  pimples  on  the  leaf,  usually  upon  its  under 
surface ; 

MILDEW  (Peronospora  effusa,  Rabenh.). — Producing  violet- 
gray  patches  upon  the  under  side  of  the  leaves  and  yellow 
spots  above; 

WHITE  SMUT  (Entyloma  Ellisii,  Hals.).  —  Covering  the  whole 
leaf  with  a  white  coat. 

Remedies.  —  No  definite  remedies  are  yet  known  for  these 
diseases.  Spraying  with  copper  fungicides  will  undoubtedly 
check  them,  but  this  procedure  is  generally  impracticable 
upon  spinage.  Burning  all  affected  plants,  and  rotation, 
are  to  be  advised. 

Squash.  POWDERY  MILDEW. — See  under  MUSKMELON. 
Strawberry.  LEAF-BLIGHT,  RUST  or  SUN-BURN  (Sphcerella 
Fragarice,  Sacc.,  including  Ramularia).  —  Small  purple  or 
red  spots  appearing  on  the  leaves.  They  eventually  become 
larger  and  browner,  making  the  leaf  appear  blotched.  Most 
serious  after  the  fruit  is  picked,  lessening  the  crop  of  the 
following  year. 

Remedies.  —  Spray  with  Bordeaux  mixture  or  ammoniacal 
carbonate  of  copper  at  intervals  of  two  weeks,  beginning  as 


PLANT-DISEASES.  73 

soon  as  the  fruit  is  picked.  Destroy  all  affected  leaves. 
The  leaves  are  easily  destroyed  without  injury  to  the  plants 
by  quickly  burning  off  a  thin  layer  of  straw  which  is  spread 
over  the  patch  after  the  fruit  is  off.  Where  the  disease  is 
feared,  the  best  treatment,  in  general,  is  to  fruit  the  planta- 
tion but  once. 

MILDEW  (Sphcerotheca  Castagnei,  L6v.). —  A  whitish  cobweb- 
like  mildew  spreading  over  the  fruit  and  leaves  and  causing 
the  latter  to  curl  as  if  wilted. 

Remedies. — If  the  disease  is  discovered  early  enough, 
some  liquid  fungicide,  as  ammoniacal  carbonate  of  copper  or 
Bordeaux  mixture,  should  be  employed.  Sulphur  scattered 
upon  the  foliage  and  upon  the  soil  about  the  plants  is  said 
to  check  the  disease. 

Sweet-Potato.  BLACK-ROT  (Ceratocystis  fimbriata,  Ell.  & 
Hals.).  —  A  dry-rot  of  the  tuber,  and  a  black  rust  upon 
the  stems.  Upon  the  tuber  it  appears  in  large  scab-like 
patches,  and  is  usually  evident  at  digging  time.  It  may 
appear  upon  the  young  plants  in  the  hotbed  and  persist 
upon  them  throughout  the  season. 

Remedies.  —  Rotation  of  crops.  Spray  the  young  plants, 
if  attack  is  feared,  with  copper  fungicides. 

DRY-ROT  (Phoma  .Batatce,  Ell.  &  Hals.).  —  The  upper  end  of 
the  tuber  becomes  dry  and  wrinkled  and  bears  a  multitude 
of  pimples,  and  its  flesh  becomes  dry  and  powdery. 
Preventive. — Destroy  all  affected  tubers. 

LEAF-BLIGHT  (Phyllosticta  bataticola,  E.  &M.). — Produces 
white,  dead  patches  upon  the  leaves. 
Remedy. —  Spray  with  some  of  the  copper  fungicides. 

SCURF  (Monilochcetes  infuscans,  Ell.  &  Hals.).  —  The  whole 
surface  of  the  potato  becomes  scurfy,  and  it  causes  the 
tuber  to  shrink. 

Preventive.  —  Use  only  healthy  potatoes  for  seed. 

SOFT- ROT  (Rhizopus  nigricans,  Ehr.).  —  The  tubers  rot  with 
a  soft  and  putrid  decay.  It  is  most  destructive  after  the 
potatoes  are  stored. 

Preventives.  —  Store    in    a    well-ventilated,    artificially 


74  HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

warmed  room,  at  a  temperature  of  about  70°.  Store  only 
sound  and  perfect  tubers,  and  remove  at  once  any  which 
are  attacked. 

SOIL-KOT  (Acrocystis  Batatas,  Ell.  &  Hals.). —  The  tubers  are 
attacked  when  young,  and  the  diseased  portion  ceases  to 
grow,  causing  the  potato  to  become  constricted  or  variously 
contorted. 

Preventive.  —  Rotation.  It  is  probable  that  the  sweet- 
potato  cannot  be  grown  again  safely  on  infested  soil  for  a 
number  of  years,  without  treatment. 

Remedy.  —  When  the  furrows  are  open  and  ready  for 
planting,  before  the  manure  is  added,  spray  the  soil  with 
Bordeaux  mixture. 

STEM-ROT,  BLACK-SHANK.  — An  obscure  disease  attacking  the 
young  shoots  near  the  ground  and  the  tops  of  the  young 
tubers,  causing  the  tubers  to  rot  away  above,  and  to  send 
up  sprouts  below  the  injured  portion. 

Preventives.  — Rotation.  Heat  the  soil  used  for  seed-bed. 
WHITE-MOLD  or  LEAF-MOLD  (Cystopus  Ipomcece-pandu- 
rance,  Farl.).  —  The  leaves  become  pale  and  brown  patches 
appear,  and  small  whitish  patches  occur  on  the  under  sur- 
face. It  thrives  upon  the  wild  potato- vine  or  man-of-the- 
earth  (Ipomcea  pandurata). 

Preventive. — Destroy  the  wild  potato-vine  upon  which 
the  fungus  grows. 

Remedy.  — Some  copper  fungicide  applied  in  a  spray. 
WHITE-ROT.  —  This  disease  causes  portions  of  the  tuber  to 
become  white  and  chalk-like,  and  sometimes  the  whole 
tuber  assumes  a  chalk-like  consistency. 

Preventives. — Use  only  healthy  stock,  and  probably  a  rota- 
tion of  crops  will  be  useful. 

Tomato.  BLIGHT  (  Cladosporiumfulvum,  Cooke) .  —  Soft  brown 
irregular  spots  appear  on  the  under  surface  of  the  leaves, 
and  the  upper  surface  becomes  spotted  with  yellow.  The 
leaves  finally  shrivel.  Most  serious  in  greenhouses. 

Preventive.  —  In  houses,  keep  the  temperature  as  even  as 
possible.  In  particular,  avoid  sudden  changes.  In  mild 


PLANT-DISEASES.  75 

attacks  the  disease  can  be  kept  in  check  by  picking  off  and 
burning  the  injured  leaves. 

Remedies.  — Bordeaux  mixture  or  ammoniacal  carbonate 
of  copper  sprayed  on  the  plants  every  week  or  ten  days. 

FIELD-BLIGHT  or  SOUTHERN  BLIGHT.  — Attacks  plants  in  the 
field,  causing  the  leaves  to  become  dull  or  slightly  yellowish 
and  curled,  as  if  suffering  from  drought.  The  ends  of  the 
leaves,  or  the  individual  leaflets,  often  die  and  droop. 
Apparently  common  North  and  South.  Probably  bacterial. 
It  is  thought  to  attack  the  potato  also  ;  if  it  does,  potatoes 
and  tomatoes  should  not  follow  each  other  upon  the  same 
land.  No  remedy  is  known. 

ROOT-KNOT. — A  nematode  disease  in  forcing-houses  (see 
under  R,  Chap.  II.),  causing  the  plants  to  curl  their  leaves 
and  become  weak.  Remove  the  crop  and  freeze  the  soil. 

ROT  (Macrosporium  Tomato,  Cooke). — The  rotting  of  the 
nearly  grown  or  ripe  fruit. 

Preventives.  —  The  small  cherry  and  plum  tomatoes  are 
not  attacked,  and  the  old-fashioned  angular  sorts  are  com- 
paratively free.  Training  the  vines  so  as  to  give  the  fruit 
plenty  of  light  and  air  is  useful.  Heavy  applications  of 
fresh  stable  manure  appear  to  augment  the  injury.  Burn 
all  infested  vines  and  fruits  in  the  autumn.  The  trouble 
is  usually  worst  rather  early  in  the  picking  season  during 
hot  and  moist  weather.  In  the  cooler  weather  of  fall  it 
is  rarely  serious.  Therefore,  aim  to  prolong  the  bearing 
season  by  early  planting  and  good  tillage. 

Remedy.  —  Spraying  with  Bordeaux  mixture  seems  to  be 
useful. 

The  bacterial  potato-blight  or  rot  also  attacks  tomatoes. 
See  under  POTATO. 

WINTER-BLIGHT.  —  Probably  a  bacterial  disease.  Attacks 
tomato  plants  grown  under  glass,  causing  the  leaves  to 
curl  and  to  become  marked  with  translucent  dots  or  spots. 
No  remedy  is  known.  Destroy  diseased  plants,  and  do  not 
use  the  same  soil  again. 
Verbena.  RUST  (Erysiphe  Cichoracearum,  DC.). — A  whitish 


76  HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

rust,  or  mildew,  which  appears  on  the  leaves,  eventually 
destroying  the  plants. 

Preventives.  —  Start  with  perfectly  healthy  and  vigorous 
stock,  and  give  good  culture.  In  the  house,  endeavor  to 
avoid  drafts,  but  give  plenty  of  air  on  bright  days. 

Remedies.  —  Sulphide  of  potassium  sprayed  upon  the 
plants  every  few  days.  Bordeaux  mixture. 
Violet.  VIOLET  DISEASE  or  RUST  (Cercospora  Violce,  Sacc., 
and  perhaps  also  Peronospora  Violce,  DeBary).  — Appears 
on  the  leaves  as  small  rounded  light  or  brown  spots,  caus- 
ing the  leaf  finally  to  wither  and  die. 

Preventives.  —  It  is  supposed  that  any  neglect  or  im- 
proper handling  renders  the  plants  more  liable  to  the 
disease.  Burn  all  infested  plants,  and  do  not  use  the  same 
soil  again  for  violets.  Sprays  of  copper  compounds  applied 
during  summer  and  fall. 

Watermelon.  ANTHRACNOSE  or  POD-RUST.  —  See  under  BEAN. 

BLIGHT,  WILT,  or  WATERMELON  DISEASE  (Fusarium  niveum, 

Smith) .  —  Vines  wilt  suddenly    and    soon    die,    without 

apparent  cause.     The  fungus  occurs  in  the  vessels  of  the 

stem.     Serious  in  the  South. 

Preventives.  —  Rotation.     Burn  all  diseased  vines.     Do 
not  throw  the  old  vines  on  compost  piles,  for  a  common 
source  of  infection  is  the  manure  spread  upon  the  land. 
POWDERY  MILDEW.  —  See  under  MUSKMELON. 


CHAPTER  V. 

INJURIES  FROM  MICE,  RABBITS,  SQUIRRELS, 
AND  BIRDS,  WITH  PREVENTIVES  AND 
REMEDIES. 

IF  the  plantation  is  free  of  litter,  and  the  adjacent 
fields  contain  no  harbors  of  brush,  mice  and  rabbits 
are  rarely  annoying  to  orchards.  In  hard  winters, 
with  deep  snow,  these  animals  are  more  destructive 
than  in  open  winters.  Rabbits  often  browse  off  the 
young  growth  of  nursery  stock  and  small  trees.  Sheep 
and  hogs  rarely  girdle  trees  if  they  are  given  sufficient 
food  and  water,  the  latter  being  especially  important. 

To   prevent   mice   from    girdling    trees    in   winter.  —  In 

heeling-in  young  trees  in  the  fall,  do  not  use  straw  or 
litter,  in  which  mice  can  make  their  nests.  In  orchards, 
see  that  tall  grass,  corn-husks,  or  other  dry  material  does 
not  gather  about  the  trees  in  fall.  If  danger  from  mice  is 
apprehended,  tramp  the  first  snow  firmly  about  the  trees, 
in  order  to  compact  the  grass  and  litter  so  that  mice  cannot 
find  shelter. 

Where  the  paper-birch  grows,  it  will  be  found  a  good 
plan  to  place  sections  of  birch-bark  from  limbs  or  small 
trunks  about  the  base  of  the  tree.  These  sections  roll  up 
tightly  about  the  tree,  and  yet  expand  so  readily  with  the 
growth  of  the  tree  that  they  may  be  allowed  to  remain, 
although  it  is  advisable  to  remove  them  each  spring,  so 
that  they  will  not  become  a  harboring-place  for  insects. 
Tie  thin  strips  of  wood,  as  laths  or  shingles,  about  the 
77 


78  HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

tree.  Common  window-screen  placed  about  the  tree  is 
effective  and  safe.  Tarred  paper  is  sometimes  advised  to 
keep  away  mice  and  borers,  but  it  is  very  apt  to  kill  the 
bark,  especially  on  young  trees,  if  tied  on,  or  if  left  on  in 
warm  weather. 

Washes  to  protect  trees  from  mice.  —  Wash  the  trees  with 
some  persistent  substance  in  which  is  placed  Paris  green. 
Maynard  finds  the  following  substances  useful  for  holding 
the  poison  :  Portland  cement  of  the  consistency  of  common 
paint ;  Portland  cement  10  parts  and  gas-tar  1  part ;  Port- 
land cement  10  parts  and  asphaltum  1  part ;  Portland 
cement  10  parts  and  Merrill's  tree-ink  1  part. 

Lime-wash,  to  which  is  added  a  little  sulphur,  tobacco- 
decoction,  and  soapsuds. 

Carbonate  of  baryta  for  rats  and  mice.  —  Sugar  and  oat- 
meal or  wheat  flour,  of  each  6  ounces ;  carbonate  of  baryta, 
\  pound ;  oil  of  anise-seed,  enough  to  give  the  mixture  a 
pretty  strong  odor. 

Tartar  emetic  for  rats  and  mice.  —  Tartar  emetic,  1  part ; 
oatmeal  or  flour,  4  parts ;  beef  or  mutton  suet  enough  to 
make  all  into  a  paste. 

Camphor  for  rats  and  mice.  — Mix  a  few  pieces  of  camphor 
with  vegetable  seeds,  to  repel  vermin. 

French  paste  for  rats  and  mice.  —  Oatmeal  or  wheat  flour,  3 
pounds ;  powdered  indigo,  |-  ounce  ;  finely  powdered  white 
arsenic,  4  ounces ;  oil  of  anise-seed,  \  drachm.  Mix,  and 
add  of  melted  beef  suet  or  mutton  tallow  2|  pounds,  and 
work  the  whole  up  into  a  paste. 

Commercial  forms  of  phosphorus  are  popular  as  extermi- 
nators of  vermin. 

Wash  for  keeping  rabbits,  sheep,  and  mice  away  from 
trees.  —  Some  writers  recommend  fresh  lime,  slaked  with 
soft  water  (old  soapsuds  are  best)  ;  make  the  wash  the 
thickness  of  fence  or  house  wash.  When  1  peck  of  lime  is 
used,  add,  when  hot,  \  gallon  crude  carbolic  acid,  \  gallon 
gas-tar,  and  4  pounds  of  sulphur.  Stir  well.  For  summer 
wash  leave  gas-tar  out  and  add  in  place  of  it  1  gallon 


INJUKIES   FROM  MICE,   ETC.  79 

of  soft  soap.  To  keep  rabbits  and  sheep  from  girdling, 
wash  late  in  fall,  or  about  the  time  of  frost,  as  high  as  one 
can  reach. 

Blood  for  rabbits.  —  Blood  smeared  upon  trees,  as  high  up  as 
rabbits  can  reach,  will  generally  keep  them  away. 

To  drive  rabbits  from  orchards.  —  Dip  rags  in  melted  sul- 
phur and  then  secure  them  to  sticks  which  are  stuck  pro- 
miscuously through  the  orchard. 

It  should  be  an  imperative  rule  with  all  orchardists  not  to 
allow  brush  heaps  or  piles  of  poles  and  rails  to  remain  upon 
their  premises  if  rabbits  are  troublesome  in  the  neighbor- 
hood, for  it  is  in  such  places  that  the  animals  live. 

Wash  to  protect  trees  from  rabbits.  —  Fresh  cow-dung,  1 
peck ;  quicklime,  \  peck ;  flowers  of  sulphur,  \  pound ; 
lampblack,  \  pound.  Mix  the  whole  into  a  thick  paint 
with  urine  and  soapsuds. 

California  rabbit-wash.  —  Commercial  aloes,  1  pound  to  4 
gallons  of  water,  both  sprinkled  on  leaves  and  painted  on 
the  bark  gives  a  bitter  taste,  which  repels  rabbits. 

California  rabbit-poisons.  — 

1.  Pieces  of  watermelon,  canteloupe,  or  other  vegeta- 
bles of  which  they  are  fond,  may  be  poisoned  with  strych- 
nine and  then  scattered  around  the  orchard. 

2.  To  100  pounds  of  wheat  take  9  gallons  of  water  and 
1  pound  of  phosphorus,  1  pound  of  sugar,  and  1  ounce  oil 
of  rhodium.     Heat  the  water  to  boiling-point  and  let  it 
stand  all  night.     Next  morning  stir  in  flour  sufficient  to 
make  a  sort  of  paste.     Scatter  it  about  the  place. 

3.  Another  preparation  is  \  teaspoonful  of  powdered 
strychnine,  2  teaspoonfuls  of  fine  salt,  and  4  of  granulated 
sugar.     Put  all  in  a  tin  box  and  shake  well.     Pour  in  small 
heaps  on  a  board.    It  hardens  into  a  solid  mass.      Rabbits 
lick  it  for  the  salt,  and  the  sugar  disguises  the  poison. 

Sulphur  for  rabbits. — Equal  proportions  of  sulphur,  soot, 
and  lime,  made  into  a  thick  paint  with  cow-manure 
Smear  upon  the  trees. 

Cow-manure  for  rabbits.  —  A  mixture  of   lime,  water,  and 


80  HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

cow-manure,  made  strong,  forms  an  excellent  anti-rabbit 
composition. 

Asafoetida  for  rabbits.  —  A  teaspoonful  of  tincture  of  asa- 
fcetida  in  £  pailful  of  liquid  clay,  mud,  or  muck  of  any 
kind.  Apply  with  a  brush  to  the  stem  and  branches  of 
young  trees.  Two  or  three  applications  during  winter. 

California  ground-squirrel  remedies. — Take  5  quarts  of 
clean  wheat ;  scald  with  water ;  drain.  Take  |-  cup  of 
white  sugar,  dissolve  with  sufficient  water  to  make  a  syrup  ; 
add  1  ounce  powdered  strychnine,  stir  thoroughly  until  a 
thin  paste  is  formed.  Pour  this  on  the  damp  wheat.  Stir 
thoroughly  for  at  least  15  minutes.  Add  1  pint  powdered 
sugar,  stir  ;  add  5  to  10  drops  of  rhodium  and  5  to  10  drops 
of  oil  of  anise-seed.  Place  a  few  grains  in  each  squirrel- 
hole,  putting  it  as  far  in  as  possible. 

Bisulphide  of  carbon  is  also  largely  used.  A  small  quan- 
tity is  poured  into  the  burrow,  and  the  hole  is  immediately 
closed  securely  with  dirt. 

Tying  newspapers  about  trees  in  such  manner  as  to  allow 
the  upper  part  of  the  paper  to  project  loosely  a  few  inches, 
frightens  the  squirrels  away. 

To  remedy  the  injury  done  by  mice,  rabbits,  and 
squirrels.  — 

1.  Pare  and  clean  the  wound,  and  cover  it  thickly  with 
fresh  cow-dung,  or  soft  clay,  and  bind  it  up  thoroughly 
with  a  cloth.     Grafting-wax  bound  on  is  also  good.     Com- 
plete   girdling,  when  done  late  in  spring  —  when  settled 
weather  is  approaching  —  can  be  remedied  in  this  manner. 

2.  Insert  long  scions  over  the  wound,  by  paring  them 
thin  on  both  ends  and  placing  one  end  under  the  bark  on 
the  upper  edge  of  the  wound  and  the  other  under  the  bark 
on  the  lower  edge.     Wax  thoroughly  the  points  of  union, 
and  tie  a  cloth  band  tightly  about  the  trees  over  both 
extremities  of  the  scions. 

Bird-poisons.  — 

1.  Place  a  shallow  box  on  the  end  of  a  pole  and  put  it  4 
or  5  feet  from  the  ground  to  keep  the  poison  out  of  the  way 


INJURIES    FROM   MICE,    ETC.  81 

of  domestic  fowls.  In  the  box  sprinkle  corn-meal  and  a 
very  little  strychnine,  which  mixture  the  birds  eat.  It  will 
not  hurt  dogs  or  cats  to  eat  the  dead  bird,  for  the  reason  that 
there  is  not  enough  poison  absorbed  by  the  bird.  (Cali- 
fornian.) 

2.  Put  the  strychnine  in  pieces  of  apples  and  stick  them 
on  the  ends  of  limbs  of  the  trees.  (Calif ornian.) 

Poison  for  English  sparrows.  —  Dissolve  arsenate  of  soda  in 
warm  water  at  the  rate  of  1  ounce  to  1  pint ;  pour  this  upon 
as  much  wheat  as  it  will  cover  (in  a  vessel  which  can  be 
closed  so  as  to  prevent  evaporation),  and  allow  it  to  soak 
for  at  least  24  hours.  Dry  the  wheat  so  prepared,  and  it  is 
ready  for  use.  It  should  be  distributed  in  winter  in  places 
where  the  sparrows  congregate. 

To  protect  fruits  from  birds.  —  One  of  the  best  devices  is 
mosquito-bar  spread  over  the  bushes  or  trees.  For  bush- 
fruits  and  small  trees  the  expense  is  not  great.  There  is  a 
commercial  netting  made  for  the  purpose. 

Have  a  taxidermist  mount  several  hawks  and  place  them 
in  natural  positions  in  the  trees  or  vines. 

In  large  plantations  of  cherries  or  other  fruits  subject  to 
the  depredations  of  birds,  the  injury  is  generally  propor- 
tionately less  than  in  small  areas.  Some  cherry-growers 
plant  early  sweet  varieties  to  feed  the  birds,  which,  getting 
their  fill,  give  less  attention  to  the  main  crop. 

To  protect  newly  planted  seeds.  —  Coat  the  seeds  with  red 
lead  by  moistening  the  seeds  slightly  and  stirring  in  red 
lead  until  all  the  seeds  are  thoroughly  coated.  Let  the 
seeds  dry  for  two  or  three  hours  before  sowing. 

To  protect  planted  corn  from  crows.  —  Dip  the  kernels  in 
coal-tar  and  then  dust  them  with  plaster. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

LAWNS.  —WEEDS   AND   MOSS. 

1.  How  to  make  lawns.  —  A  lawn  which  is  to  be  perma- 
nent should  be  thoroughly  and  carefully  made.     See  that 
the  land  is  well  drained.    Plow  it  or  trench  it  deeply. 
Kake  the  surface  fine  and  smooth,  removing  lumps  and 
stones.     Use  freely  of  chemical  fertilizer — rich  in  nitrogen 
—  or  clean  stable  manure.      Sow  the  seed  very  early  in 
the  spring,  so  that  the  grass  becomes  established  before 
dry  weather;    or  else  sow  just  before  the  fall  rains  are 
expected.    If  the  land  is  in  readiness,  the  seed  may  be 
sown  on  a  late  spring  snow.     The  best  lawn  grass  is  June 
grass  (known  also  as  Kentucky  blue  grass) .     Sow  3  or  4 
bushels  to  the  acre  in  order  to  secure  a  close,  soft  turf. 
Two  or  three  quarts  of  timothy  seed  may  be  used  when 
seeding,  as  this  grass  makes  a  better  cover  the  first  year, 
and  it  is  gradually  crowded  out  by  the  June  grass.     If  one 
likes  white  clover  in  a  lawn,  it  may  be  added  at  the  rate 
of  a  couple  quarts  to  the  acre.     Weeds  will  come  up  the 
first  year;  keep  them  closely  mown,  and  the  June  grass 
will  crowd  them  out  in  a  year  or  two.     Reseed  and  repair 
all  poor  spots  in  the  lawn  from  year  to  year,  as  recom- 
mended in  Section  3.     Give  a  top  dressing  every  spring. 
Well-made  lawns,  which  are  well  cared  for,  rarely  need 
watering. 

2.  Weeds  in  general.  —  Weeds  rarely  trouble  the  good  culti- 
vator, particularly  in  vegetable  gardening.     Intensive  meth- 
ods of  cultivation  allow  no  weeds  to  appear.    It  is  economy, 
both  in  labor  and  returns  from  the  crop,  to  prevent  weeds 
from  appearing,  rather  than  to  hoe  or  pull  them  out  after 

82 


WEEDS   AND   MOSS.  83 

they  are  partly  grown  and  have  done  some  damage.  Fre- 
quent light  stirrings  of  the  soil  with  cultivator,  harrow,  or 
rake  are  the  cheapest  mode  of  weed  destruction.  Rotation 
of  crops  and  continuous  cropping  of  the  land  are  amongst 
the  best  preventives  and  exterminators  of  weeds.  The 
better  the  system  of  husbandry  the  fewer  the  weeds. 

In  the  struggle  with  weeds  it  is  well  to  consider  the 
longevity  of  the  various  species.  Annual  weeds,  those 
which  naturally  die  after  the  season's  growth,  require  no 
special  treatment.  Biennial  species,  those  which  die  at  the 
end  of  the  second  year,  may  be  held  in  check  by  preventing 
them  from  seeding,  as  by  mowing  them  when  coming  into 
flower.  Examples  of  this  class  are  the  mullein,  wild  carrot, 
and  field  or  bull  thistle.  Perennial  species,  those  which 
live  indefinitely,  often  require  particular  treatment.  Some 
of  the  worst  perennial  species  are  Canada  thistle,  white  or 
ox-eye  daisy,  toad-flax,  live-forever,  docks,  and  various 
grasses.  Very  frequent,  persistent,  and  thorough  cultiva- 
tion will  destroy  any  of  these.  Cultivation  should  be 
repeated  even  before  the  weeds  recover  sufficiently  to  take 
root  again.  Seeding  down  and  mowing  the  weeds  with  the 
hay  will  destroy  most  weeds.  In  dry  and  sandy  soils  three 
or  four  thorough  plowings  during  the  season  will  destroy 
Canada  thistles  and  other  pests,  particularly  in  dry  years, 
but  on  richer  and  retentive  soils  greater  thoroughness  must 
be  practised. 

3.  Weeds  in  lawns.  —  Weeds  usually  come  up  thickly  in 
newly  sown  lawns.  They  are  to  be  prevented  by  the  use  of 
commercial  fertilizers  or  very  clean  manure  and  clean  grass- 
seed.  Clean  June-grass,  or  blue-grass,  seed  is  usually  best. 
Grass-seed  should  be  sown  very  thickly — 3  to  4  bushels 
to  the  acre  —  and  annual  weeds  cannot  persist  long.  Fre- 
quent mowings  during  summer  will  keep  these  weeds  down, 
and  most  species  will  not  survive  the  winter.  In  old  lawns 
most  perennial  weeds  can  be  kept  down  by  frequent  mow- 
ings, with  a  good  lawn-mower.  Grass  can  stand  more 
cutting  than  weeds.  If  mowing  cannot  be  practised  often 


84 


enough  for  this  purpose,  the  weeds  may  be  cut  off  below 
the  surface  with  a  long  knife  or  spud,  and  the  crowns  are 
then  readily  pulled  out.  Or  a  little  sulphuric  acid  —  oil  of 
vitriol  —  may  be  poured  upon  the  crown  of  each  plant. 

It  will  usually  be  found  that  weedy  lawns  are  those  in 
which  the  sod  is  poor  and  thin.  The  fundamental  remedy, 
therefore,  is  to  secure  a  strong  sod.  This  is  done  by  rak- 
ing or  harrowing  over  the  lawn  in  late  spring  when  it  is 
somewhat  soft,  and  sowing  a  liberal  dressing  of  chemical 
fertilizer  and  grass-seed.  Roll  the  land  down  level.  All 
poor  spots  in  lawns  should  be  repaired  in  this  manner 
every  year.  The  use  of  stable  manure  on  lawns  should  be 
discouraged,  both  because  it  is  offensive  and  it  generally 
abounds  in  weed  seeds. 

4.  "Weeds  on  walks.  —  Walks  should  be  so  made  that  weeds 
cannot  grow  in  them.  This  can  be  done  by  making  a  deep 
stone  foundation  and  filling  between  the  stones  with  cinders, 
coal  ashes,  or  other  similar  material.  But  when  weeds 
become  established  they  can  be  destroyed  by  the  following 
methods : 

SALT.  —  Hot  brine  (1  pound  of  salt  to  1  gallon  of  water), 
boiled  in  a  kettle  on  wheels  and  dipped  out  into  watering- 
pots.  Brine  is  better  than  dry  salt,  because  it  leaves  very 
little  color  upon  the  walk. 

LIME  AND  SULPHUR.  —  10  gallons  of  water,  20  pounds  of 
quicklime,  and  2  pounds  of  sulphur  are  boiled  in  an  iron  ves- 
sel. After  settling,  the  clear  part  is  dipped  off  and  used  when 
needed.  Care  must  be  taken,  as  it  will  destroy  edgings. 

OIL  OF  VITRIOL.  —  1  part  oil  of  vitriol  (sulphuric  acid) 
to  30  parts  of  water.  Apply  with  a  watering-pot.  Choose 
a  clear  evening  after  a  hot  day.  Keep  clear  of  the  edgings. 
The  pot  should  be  well  painted,  or  a  wooden  pail  should  be 
used. 

ARSENITE  or  SODA.  — Place  1  pound  of  powdered  arsenic 
in  3  gallons  of  cold  water,  boil  and  keep  stirring  ;  then  add 
7  gallons  of  cold  water  and  2  pounds  of  crushed  soda  ;  stir 
well  while  boiling.  Apply  in  dry  weather. 


WEEDS   AND  MOSS.  85 

CARBOLIC  ACID.  —  1  ounce  of  carbolic  acid  to  1  gallon  of 
water,  sprinkled  from  a  watering-pot.  Also  destroys  ants. 

COAL-TAR  COATING.  —  Mix  coal-tar  with  gravel  to  the 
consistency  of  mortar  ;  spread  over  the  path  1  to  2  inches 
thick;  cover  this  with  gravel,  then  roll  and  add  another 
thin  coating  of  gravel  to  finish. 

5.  Moss  on  walks  and  lawns.  —  In  damp  and  shady  places, 
and  also  in  sterile  places,  moss  may  appear  on  walks  and 
lawns.    If  the  conditions  cannot  be  improved,  the  following 
treatments  may  be  tried : 

1  pound  oil  of  vitriol  (sulphuric  acid)  to  10  quarts  of 
water.  Wet  the  surface  thoroughly,  being  careful  not  to 
sprinkle  edgings  or  good  sod. 

In  early  spring,  while  the  ground  is  soft,  work  it  back- 
wards and  forwards,  with  a  long-toothed  rake,  in  order  to 
bring  the  moss  to  the  surface.  Clear  away  the  moss  and 
leave  the  ground  untouched  for  a  fortnight.  Early  in 
March  repeat  the  operation,  and  about  the  middle  of  that 
month  apply  a  dressing  of  rich  compost,  which  may  consist 
of  any  old  rubbish  well  decomposed,  adding  ^  of  fresh 
lime.  Mix  with  compost  a  few  days  before  using.  Cover 
the  ground  with  the  compost  at  the  rate  of  200  barrow-loads 
per  acre,  passing  it  through  a  |-inch  sieve,  to  save  the 
trouble  of  rolling.  Rake  it  evenly  over  the  surface,  and 
when  dry  seed  down.  An  English  method. 

Endeavor  to  improve  the  sod,  as  recommended  in  Section 
3,  and  thereby  drive  out  the  moss.  In  shady  places,  where 
grass  will  not  grow,  plant  some  shade-loving  plant,  as 
periwinkle  (Fmca  minor),  lily-of-the-valley,  or  moneywort 
(Lysimachia  nummularia) ,  or  species  of  carex. 

6.  Moss  or  lichen  on  trees.  — Moss  on  fruit-trees  is  usually 
an  indication  of  lack  of  vigor.    Cultivate  and  prune.    Wash 
the  trees  with  soap  or  lye  washes.     Scrape  off  the  bark,  ex- 
ercising care  not  to  expose  the  "  quick,"  or  the  tender  inner 
bark.    A  good  scraper  is  made  of  a  small  and  much-worn 
hoe  with  the  handle  cut  to  about  two  feet  long. 

The  moss  is  readily  destroyed  by  Bordeaux  mixture. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

WAXES  FOR  GRAFTING  AND  FOR  WOUNDS. 

1.  Common  resin  and  beeswax  waxes. 

1.  RELIABLE  WAX.  —  Resin,  4  parts  by  weight;  bees- 
wax, 2  parts ;  tallow,  1  part.     Melt  together  and  pour  into 
a  pail  of  cold  water.    Then  grease  the  hands  and  pull  the 
wax  until  it  is  nearly  white.    One  of  the  best  waxes,  either 
for  indoor  or  outdoor  use. 

2.  Resin,  4  pounds ;  beeswax,  1  pound ;  tallow,  1  pound. 

3.  Resin,  6  pounds;  beeswax,  2  pounds;  linseed  oil,  1 
pint. 

4.  6  pounds  resin,  1  pound  beeswax,  and  1  pint  linseed 
oil ;  apply  hot  with  a  brush,  one-eighth  of  an  inch  thick 
over  all  the  joints. 

5.  FOR  WARM  WEATHER.  — 4  pounds  of  resin,  1  pound 
of  beeswax,  and  from  half  to  a  pint  of  raw  linseed  oil; 
melt  all  together  gradually,  and  turn  into  water  and  pull. 
The  linseed  oil  should  be  entirely  free  from  cotton-seed  oil. 

6.  Resin,  6  parts ;  beeswax,  1  part ;  tallow,  1  part.    To 
be  used  warm,  in  the  house. 

7.  Resin,  4  or  5  parts  ;  beeswax,  1£  to  2  parts  ;  linseed 
oil,  1  to  1|  parts.     For  outdoor  work. 

2.  Alcoholic  waxes. 

8.  LEFORT'S    LIQUID    GRAFTING-WAX,    or    ALCOHOLIC 
PLASTIC.  —  Best  white  resin,  1  pound ;  beef  tallow,  1  ounce ; 
remove  from  the  fire  and  add  8  ounces  of  alcohol.     Keep 
in  closed  bottles  or  cans. 

9.  ALCOHOLIC  PLASTIC  WITH  BEESWAX.  —  Melt  6  parts 
white  resin  with  1  part  beeswax ;  remove  from  stove  and 
partially  cool  by  stirring,  then  add  gradually — with  con- 

86 


WAXES  FOB,  GRAFTING  AND  FOB  WOUNDS.      87 

tinued  stirring — enough  alcohol  to  make  the  mixture,  when 
cool,  of  the  consistency  of  porridge.  In  the  temperature  of 
the  grafting-room  it  will  remain  sufficiently  plastic  to  per- 
mit applying  to  the  cut  surfaces  with  the  finger. 

10.  ALCOHOLIC  PLASTIC  WITH  TURPENTINE.  —  Best  white 
resin,  1  pound ;  beef  tallow,  1  ounce ;  turpentine,  1  tea- 
spoonful  ;  add  enough  alcohol  (13  to  15  fluid  ounces  of  95 
per  cent  alcohol)  to  make  the  wax  of  the  consistency  of 
honey.    Or,  less  alcohol  may  be  added  if  the  wax  is  to  be 
used  with  tho  fingers. 

French  and  pitch  waxes. 

11.  COMMON  FRENCH. — Pitch,  £  pound;   beeswax,   £ 
pound ;  cow-dung,  1  pound.    Boil  together,  melt,  and  apply 
with  a  brush. 

12.  COMMON  FRENCH  BANDAGE  WAX.  —  Equal  parts  of 
beeswax,  turpentine,  and  resin.    While  warm  spread  on 
strips  of  coarse  cotton  or  strong  paper. 

13.  GRAFTING  CLAY. — ^  cow-dung,  free  from  straw, 
and  f  clay,  or  clayey  loam,  with  a  little  hair,  like  that  used 
in  plaster,  to  prevent  its  cracking.    Beat  and  temper  it  for 
two  or  three  days  until  it  is    thoroughly  incorporated. 
When  used  it  should  be  of  such  a  consistency  as  to  be 
easily  put  on  and  shaped  with  the  hands. 

14.  2  pounds  12  ounces  of  resin  and  1  pound  11  ounces 
of  Burgundy  pitch.     At  the  same  time,  melt  9  ounces  of 
tallow  ;  pour  the  latter  into  the  former,  while  both  are  hot, 
and  stir  the  mixture  thoroughly.     Then  add  18  ounces  of 
red  ochre,  dropping  it  in  gradually  and  stirring  the  mixture 
at  the  same  time. 

15.  Black  pitch,  28  parts  ;   Burgundy  pitch,  28  parts  ; 
beeswax,  16  parts  ;  grease,  14  parts  ;  yellow  ochre,  14  parts. 

16.  Black  pitch,  28  pounds  ;  Burgundy  pitch,  28  pounds ; 
yellow  wax,  16  pounds  ;  suet  or  tallow,  14  pounds ;  sifted 
ashes,  14  pounds.     When  used,  warm  sufficiently  to  make 
it  liquid. 

17.  Melt    together    1£    pounds    of   clear  resin   and   £ 
pound  of  white  pitch.    At  the  same  time  melt  %  pound  of 


88  HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

tallow.  Pour  the  melted  tallow  into  the  first  mixture,  and 
stir  vigorously.  Then,  before  the  stuff  cools,  add,  slowly 
stirring  meantime,  \  pound  of  Venetian  red.  This  may  be 
used  warm  or  cold. 

4.  Waxed  string  and  bandage. 

18.  WAXED    STRING     FOR    ROOT-GRAFTING.  —  Into    a 
kettle  of  melted  wax  place  balls  of  No.  18  knitting-cotton. 
Turn  the  balls  frequently,  and  in  five  minutes  they  will  be 
thoroughly  saturated,  when  they  are  dried  and  put  away 
for  future  use. 

This  material  is  strong  enough,  and  at  the  same  time 
breaks  so  easily  as  not  to  injure  the  hands.  Any  of  the 
resin  and  beeswax  waxes  may  be  used.  When  the  string  is 
used  it  should  be  warm  enough  to  stick  without  tying. 

19.  WAXED  CLOTH.  —  Old  calico  or  thin  muslin  is  rolled 
on  a  stick  and  placed  in  melted  wax.     When  saturated  it  is 
allowed  to  cool  by  being  unrolled  on  a  bench.    It  is  then 
cut  in  strips  to  suit. 

5.  Waxes  for  wounds. 

20.  Any  of  the  more  adhesive  grafting-waxes  are  excel- 
lent for  dressing  wounds,  although  most  of  them  cleave 
off  after  the  first  year.     Stiff  and  ochreous  paints  are  also 
good.     Tar  is  useful. 

21.  COAL-TAR.  —  Apply  a  coating  of    coal-tar  to  the 
wound,  which  has  first  been  pared  and  smoothed.    If  the 
wound  contains  a  hole,  plug  it  with  seasoned  wood. 

22.  HOSKINS'  WAX.  — Boil  pine-tar  slowly  for  three  or 
four  hours  ;  add  1  pound  of   beeswax  to  a  quart  of  the 
tar.    Have  ready  some  dry  and  finely  sifted  clay,  and  when 
the  mixture  of  tar  and  wax  is  partly  cold,  stir  into  the 
above-named  quantity  about  12  ounces  of  the  clay  ;  continue 
the  stirring  until  the  mixture  is  so  stiff  and  so  nearly  cool 
that  the  clay  will  not  settle.     This  is  soft  enough  in  mild 
weather  to  be  easily  applied  with  a  knife  or  spatula. 

23.  SCH^FELL'S  HEALING-PAINT.  —  Boil  linseed  oil  (free 
from  cotton-seed  oil)  one  hour,  with  an  ounce  of  litharge 
to  each  pint  of  oil ;  then  stir  in  sifted  wood  ashes  until  the 


WAXES  FOR  GRAFTING  AND  FOR  WOUNDS.      89 

paint  is  of  the  proper  consistency.  Pare  the  bark  until 
smooth,  as  the  fuzzy  edge  left  by  the  saw  will  cause  it  to 
die  back.  Paint  the  wound  over  in  dry  weather,  and  if  the 
wound  is  very  large  cover  with  a  gunny-sack. 

24.  TAR  FOR  BLEEDING  IN  VINES.  —  Add  to  tar  about 
3  "or  4  times  its  weight  of  powdered  slate  or  some  similar 
substance. 

25.  HOT  IRON  FOR  BLEEDING  IN  VINES.  —  Apply  a  hot 
iron  to  the  bare  surface  until  it  is  charred,  and  then  rub 
into  the  charred  surface  a  paste  made  of  newly  burnt  lime 
and  grease. 

26.  COLLODION  FOR    BLEEDING   IN   VINES. — In    some 
extreme  cases  2  or  3  coats  will  be  needed,  in  which  case 
allow  the  collodion  to  form  a  film  before  applying  another 
coat.    Pharmaceutical  collodion  is  better  than  photographic. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

CEMENTS,  MORTARS,  PAINTS,  AND  GLUES. 

1.   Cement  and  mortar. 
CEMENTS  FOR  IRON.  — 

1.  Sal  ammoniac,  2  ounces  ;  sulphur,  1  ounce  ;  clean  iron- 
borings  or  filings  reduced  to  powder,  12  pounds;  water 
enough  to  form  a  thin  paste. 

2.  Sal  ammoniac,  2  ounces ;  iron -filings,  8  pounds ;  suf- 
ficient water. 

3.  1  or  2  parts  of  sal  ammoniac  to  100  of  iron-filings. 
When  the  work  is  required  to  set  quickly,  increase  the  sal 
ammoniac  slightly  and  add  a  small  amount  of  sulphur. 

4.  Iron-filings,  4  pounds  ;  pipe-clay,  2  pounds  ;  powdered 
potsherds,  11  pounds;  make  into  a  paste  with  moderately 
strong  brine. 

5.  Equal  parts  of  red  and  white  lead,  mixed  into  a  paste 
with  boiled  linseed  oil.     Used  for  making  metallic  joints  of 
all  kinds. 

6.  To  4  or  5  parts  of  clay,  thoroughly  dried  and  pulver- 
ized, add  2  parts  of  iron-filings,  free  from  oxide,  1  part  of 
peroxide  of  manganese,  ^  of  sea  salt,  and  |  of  borax ;  mix 
well,  and  reduce  to  a  thick  paste  with  water.    Use  immedi- 
ately.    Expose  to  warmth,  gradually  increasing  almost  to 
white  heat. 

7.  Sifted  coal  ashes,  2  parts,  and  common  salt,  1  part. 
Add  water  enough  to  make  a  paste  and  apply  at  once. 
This  is  also  good   for  stoves   and  boilers,  as   it  stands 
heat. 

BOILER  CEMENTS.  — 

8.  Chalk,  60  parts ;  lime  and  salt,  of  each,  20  parts ; 

90 


CEMENTS,  MORTARS,  PAINTS,  AND   GLUES.      91 

sharp  sand,  10  parts ;  blue  or  red  clay  and  clean  iron-filings, 
of  each,  5  parts.     Grind  together  and  calcine  or  heat. 

9.  Powdered  clay,  6  pounds  ;  iron-filings,  1  pound.   Make 
into  a  paste  with  linseed  oil. 

10.  Powdered  litharge,  2  parts ;  silver  sand  and  slaked 
lime,  of  each,  1  part ;  boiled  oil  enough  to  form  a  paste. 

These  cements  are  used  for  stopping  leaks  and  cracks  in 
boilers,  iron  pipes,  stoves,  etc.     They  should  be  applied  as 
soon  as  made. 
TAR  CEMENT. — 

11.  Coal-tar,  1  part ;  powdered  slate  (slate  flour),  3  or 
4  parts ;   mix  by  stirring  until  thoroughly  incorporated. 
Very  useful  for  mending  watering-pots,  barrels,  leaky  sash, 
etc.     It  remains  somewhat  elastic.     It  does  not  adhere  to 
greasy  surfaces.     It  will  keep  for  a  long  time  before  using. 

COPPER  CEMENT.  — 

12.  Beef  blood  thickened  with  sufficient  finely  powdered 
quicklime  to  make  it  into  a  paste  is  used  to  secure   the 
edges  and  rivets  of  copper  boilers,  kettles,  etc.    Use  im- 
mediately. 

FIREPROOF  OR  STONE  CEMENT.  — 

13.  Fine  river  sand,  20  parts ;  litharge,  2  parts  ;  quick- 
lime, 1  part;  linseed  oil  enough  to  form  a  thick  paste. 
Used  for  walls  and  broken  stonework. 

EARTHENWARE  CEMENT.  — 

14.  Grated  cheese,  2  parts  ;  powdered  quicklime,  1  part ; 
fresh  white  of  egg  enough  to  form  a  paste.    Use  as  soon  as 
possible. 

For  fine  earthenware,  liquid  glue  may  be  used. 
CEMENT  FOR  GLASS.  — 

15.  Methylated  spirit  (wood  alcohol)  to  render  liquid  a 
half  dozen  pieces  of  gum-mastic  the  size  of  a  large  pea  ;  in 
another  bottle  dissolve  the  same   quantity  of  isinglass, 
which  has  been  soaked  in  water  and  allowed  to  get  surface 
dry,  in  2  ounces  of  methylated  spirit;  when  the  first  is 
dissolved  add  2  pieces  of  gum-galbanum  or  gum-ammoniac  ; 
apply  gentle  heat  and  stir;  add  the  solution  of  isinglass, 


heat  again  and  stir.     Keep  in  a  tightly  stoppered  bottle, 
and  when  used  set  in  boiling  water. 
SEALING  CEMENTS.  — 

16.  Beeswax,  1  pound ;  resin,  5  pounds.    Stir  in  sufficient 
red  ochre  and  Brunswick  green,  or  lampblack,  to  give  the 
desired  color. 

17.  Black  pitch,  6  pounds  ;  ivory-black  and  whiting,  of 
each,  1  pound.    Less  attractive  than  the  former. 

These  are  used  for  sealing  up  bottles,  barrels,  etc. 
MORTAR  FOR  HEAVY  BUBBLE- WORK  OR  BRICKWORK.  — 

18.  1  part  of  slaked  lime,  2  parts  of  sand,  and  1  part  of 
blacksmith's  ashes ;  for  brickwork,  1  part  of  lime,  1  of 
sand,  and  1  of  blacksmith's  ashes. 

2.  Approximate  Estimates  of  Ma  son- Work.  — 

3  \  barrels  of  lime  are  required  to  cover  100  square  yards 
plastering,  two  coats. 

2  barrels  of  lime  will  cover  100  square  yards  plastering, 
one  coat. 

1£  bushels  of  hair  are  needed  for  100  square  yards  plas- 
tering. 

1£  yards  good  sand  are  required  for  100  square  yards 
plastering. 

|  barrel  of  plaster  (stucco)  will  hard-finish  100  square 
yards  plastering. 

1  barrel  of  best  lime  will  lay  1000  bricks. 

2  barrels  of  lime  will  lay  one  cord  rubble-stone. 

^  barrel  of  lime  will  lay  1  perch  rubble-stone.  (Estimat- 
ing \  cord  to  perch.) 

To  every  barrel  of  lime  estimate  about  f  cubic  yard  of 
good  sand  for  plastering  and  brickwork. 

3.  Concrete,  etc.,  for  floors,  borders,  and  walks. 
GROUT  FLOOR. — 

1.  To  secure  a  good  grout  or  cement  floor,  make  a  good 
foundation  of  small  stones  or  brickbats  and  cover  3  or  4 
inches  thick  with  a  thin  mortar,  made  of  2  parts  sharp  sand 
and  1  part  water-lime. 

2.  Fresh  powdered  lime,  2  parts ;  Portland  cement,  1 


CEMENTS,  MORTARS,  PAINTS,  AND   GLUES.      93 

part;  gravel,  broken  stone,  or  brick,  6  parts.  Mix  with 
water  to  a  liquid  consistency,  and  let  it  be  thrown  forcibly, 
or  dropped  into  its  position.  It  should  be  well  beaten  or 
rammed  to  render  it  solid.  A  "  skim  "  of  thin,  rich  mortar 
may  be  placed  on  top  as  a  finish. 

3.  Equal  parts  of  gravel,  well  screened,  and  clean  river 
or  pit  sand.     With  5  parts  of  sand  and  gravel  mix  1  part 
of  Portland  cement.     Mix  with  water  and  apply  1  inch 
thick. 

FOR  GARDEN  BORDERS.  — 

4.  9  parts  gravel  and  1  part  unslaked  lime ;  slake  the 
lime  and  cover  it  with  gravel,  then  add  water  sufficient  to 
make  a  very  thin  mortar.     Apply  3  inches  deep,  allow  it  to 
stiffen  a  little,  then  roll.     Finish  with  an  inch  thick  of  1 
part  lime  and  3  parts  gravel.    Apply  soft. 

FOR  WALKS. — 

5.  Walks  should  always  have  a  well-made  foundation  of 
stones  or  brickbats  to  give  hardness  and  insure  drainage. 
The  top  of  the  walk  may  be  made  of  gravel,  sifted  coal 
ashes,  cinders  from  foundries,  furnaces,  etc.    If  gravel  is 
used,  care  should  be  exercised  to  avoid  the  round  or  washed 
gravel,  particularly  that  lying  in  the  beds  of  streams,  for  it 
will  not  pack.    1  part  of  clean  clay  to  4  or  5  of  gravel 
makes  a  good  walk.     Or  the  following  may  be  used  (6-11): 

6.  1  part  mineral  pitch,  1  part  resin,   7   parts  chalk, 
and  2  parts  coarse  sand.     Boil  together,  and  lay  it  while  in 
a  hot  state,  adding  a  little  gravel. 

7.  Boil  for  a  short  time  18  parts  of  mineral  pitch  and  18 
parts  of  resin  in  an  iron  kettle  ;  then  add  60  parts  of  coarse 
sand  ;  mix  well,  and  lay  on  the  path  to  the  thickness  of  1 
inch ;  then  sift  a  little  fine  gravel  over  it  and  beat  it  down 
before  the  cement  sets. 

8.  Put  down  a  coat  of  tar  and  sift  some  road  sand  or 
coal  ashes  over  it  very  thickly.     When  this  is  dry,  repeat 
the  operation  until  you  have  four  coats  of  tar  and  as  many 
of  coal  ashes  or  road  sand. 

9.  2  parts  of  thoroughly  dried   sand,   1   part  cinders, 


94  HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

thoroughly  dried.  Mix  together ;  then  spread  the  sand 
and  cinders  on  the  ground  and  make  a  hole  in  the  centre, 
into  which  pour  boiling-hot  tar  and  mix  into  a  stiff  paste  ; 
then  spread  on  the  walk,  beat,  and  roll. 

10.  2  parts  lime  rubbish  and  1  part  coal  ashes,  both 
very  dry  and  finely  sifted  ;  in  the  middle  of  the  heap  make 
a  hole;  into  this  pour  boiling-hot  coal-tar;  mix  to  a  stiff 
mortar  and  spread  on  the  ground  2  or  3  inches  thick.    The 
ground  should  be  dry  and  beaten  well.     Cover  with  coarse 
sand  ;  when  cold,  roll  well. 

11.  Artificial  stone  walks  of  great  durability  may  be. 
made  as  follows :    Upon  a  well-drained  foundation  (pref- 
erably one  of  stone,  which  cannot  heave  with  frost),  place 
4  inches  of  a  well-mixed  mortar  made  of  3  parts  Portland 
cement  and  1  part  water-lime,  with  2  or  3  times  the  quantity 
of  sand  as  of  Portland.     Before  this  is  set,  put  on  a  finish- 
ing layer  of  1  inch  of  1  part  Portland,  1  part  water-lime, 
and  1  part  sharp  sand. 

4.    Paints  and  protective  compounds. 

HOME-MADE  WASHES  FOR  FENCES  AND  OUT-BUILDINGS  may 
be  made  by  various  combinations  of  lime  and  grease.  The 
following  are  good  formulas  : 

1.  Slake  fresh  quicklime  in  water,  and  thin  it  to  a  paste 
or  paint  with  skim-milk.    The  addition  of  2  or  3  handfuls 
of  salt  to  a  pail  of  the  wash  is  beneficial. 

2.  2  quarts  skim-milk,  8  ounces  of  fresh  slaked  lime,  6 
ounces  of  boiled  linseed  oil,  and  2  ounces  of  white  pitch, 
dissolved  in  the  oil  by  a  gentle  heat.     The  lime  must  be 
slaked  in  cold  water  and  dried  in  the  air  until  it  falls  into 
a  fine  powder ;  then  mix  with  \  part  of  the  milk,  adding 
the  mixed  oil  and  pitch  by  degrees ;  add  the  remainder  of 
the  milk.    Lastly,  add  3  pounds  of  the  best  whiting  and 
mix  the  whole  thoroughly. 

3.  Slake  \  bushel  of  lime  in  boiling  water,  keeping  it 
covered  ;  strain  and  add  brine  made  by  dissolving  1  peck 
of  salt  in  warm  water,  and  3  pounds  rice  flour,  then  boil 
to  a  paste  ;  add  \  pound  whiting  and  1  pound  of  glue  dis- 


CEMENTS,  MORTARS,  PAINTS,  AND    GLUES.       95 

solved  in  warm  water.     Mix  and  let  stand  for  a  few  days 
before  using. 
FIRE-PROOF  PAINT.  — 

4.  In  a  covered  vessel  slake  the  best  quicklime,  then 
add  a  mixture  of  skim-milk  and  water,  and  mix  to  the  con- 
sistency of  cream  ;  then  add  20  pounds  of  alum,  15  pounds 
of  potash  and  1  bushel  of  salt  to  every  100  gallons  of  the 
liquid.     If  white  paint  is  desired,  add  to  the  above  6  pounds 
of  plaster  of  Paris. 

FOR  DAMP  WALLS.  — 

5.  f  pounds  of  hard  soap  to  1  gallon  of  water.     Lay  over 
the  bricks  steadily  and  carefully  with  a  flat  brush,  so  as 
not  to  form  a  froth  or  lather  on  the  surface.     After  24 
hours  mix  £  pound  of  alum  with  4  gallons  of  water  ;  let  it 
stand  24  hours,  and  then  apply  it  in  the  same  manner  over 
the  coating  of  soap.     Apply  in  dry  weather. 

6.  1£  pounds  resin,  1  pound  tallow,  1  quart  linseed  oil. 
Melt  together  and  apply  hot,  two  coats. 

WATER-PROOFING  PAINTS.  —  FOR  LEATHER. — 

7.  |  pound  of  shellac,  broken  into  small  pieces  in  a  quart 
bottle  ;  cover  with  methylated  spirit  (wood  alcohol),  cork  it 
tight,  put  it  in  a  warm  place,  and  shake  well  several  times  a 
day  ;  then  add  a  piece  of  camphor  as  large  as  a  hen's  egg ; 
shake  again  and  add  1  ounce  of  lampblack.     Apply  with 
a  small  paint-brush. 

8.  Put  into  an  earthen  jar  ±  pound  of  beeswax,  \  pint  of 
neat's-foot  oil,  3  or  4  tablespoonfuls  of  lampblack,  and  a 
piece  of  camphor  as  large  as  a  hen's  egg.    Melt  over  a  slow 
fire.    Have  both  grease  and  leather  warm  and  apply  with 
a  brush. 

9.  1  pint  of  linseed  oil,  £  pound  mutton  suet,  6  ounces 
of  clean  beeswax,  and  4  ounces  of  resin ;  melt  and  mix  well. 
Use  while  warm  with  a  brush  on  new  boots  or  shoes. 

FOR  CLOTH  FOR  PITS  AND  FRAMES.  — 

10.  Old  pale  linseed  oil,  3  pints  ;   sugar  of  lead  (acetate 
of  lead),  1  ounce  ;  white  resin,  4  ounces.     Grind  the  acetate 
with  a  little  of  the  oil,  then  add  the  rest  and  the  resin. 


96  HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

Use  an  iron  kettle  over  a  gentle  fire.     Apply  with  a  brush, 
hot. 
FOR  PAPER.  — 

11.  Dissolve   If  pounds  of  white  soap  in  1  quart  of 
water;  in  another  quart  of  water  dissolve  1^  ounces  of  gum 
arabic  and  5  ounces  of  glue.    Mix  the  two  liquids,  warm 
them  and  soak  the  paper  in  it  and  pass  through  rollers,  or 
simply  hang  it  up  to  dry. 

To  PREVENT  METALS  FROM  RUSTING.  — 

12.  Melt  together  3  parts  of  lard  and  1  part  of  powdered 
resin.    A  very  thin  coating  applied  with  a  brush  will  keep 
stoves  and  grates  from  rusting  during  summer,  even  in 
damp  situations.     A  little  black  lead  can  be  mixed  with 
the  lard.     Does  well  on  nearly  all  metals. 

TO  PREVENT  RUSTING  OF  NAILS,  HlNGES,  ETC. — 

13.  1  pint  of  linseed  oil,  2  ounces  black  lead  ;  mix  to- 
gether.    Heat  nails  red-hot  and  dip  them  in. 

AMOUNT  OF  PAINT  REQUIRED  FOR  A  GIVEN  SURFACE.  —  It  is 
impossible  to  give  a  rule  that  will  apply  in  all  cases,  as  the 
amount  varies  with  the  kind  and  thickness  of  the  paint, 
the  kind  of  wood  or  other  material  to  which  it  is  applied, 
the  age  of  the  surface,  etc.  The  following  is  an  approxi- 
mate rule  :  Divide  the  number  of  square  feet  of  surface  by 
200.  The  result  will  be  the  number  of  gallons  of  liquid 
paint  required  to  give  two  coats ;  or  divide  by  18,  and  the 
result  will  be  the  number  of  pounds  of  pure  ground  white 
lead  required  to  give  three  coats. 
5.  Glues. 

LIQUID  GLUE.  — 

1.  Dissolve  2  pounds  of  best  pale  glue  in  1  quart  of 
water  in  a  covered  vessel,  placed  in  a  hot-water  bath ;  when 
cold,  add  to  it  7  ounces  of  commercial  nitric  acid.     When 
cold  put  in  bottles. 

2.  Finest  pale  orange  shellac,  broken  small,  4  ounces  ; 
methylated  spirit,  3  ounces  ;  put  in  a  warm  place  in  a  closely 
corked  bottle  until  dissolved.    Should  have  the  consistency 
of  molasses.     Or,  borax,  1  ounce  ;  water,  £  pint ;  shellac  as 


CEMENTS,  MORTARS,  PAINTS,  AND   GLUES.      97 

before ;  boil  in  a  closely  covered  kettle  until  dissolved ; 
then  evaporate  until  nearly  as  thick  as  molasses. 

FLOWER  GUM.  — 

8.  Very  fine  white  shellac  mixed  with  methylated  spirit 
in  a  stone  jar ;  shake  well  for  \  an  hour  and  place  by  a  fire, 
and  shake  it  frequently  the  first  day.  Keep  in  a  cool  place. 
Leave  the  camel's-hair  brush  in  the  gum.  Never  fill  the 
brush  too  full  and  gum  the  petals  close  to  the  tube. 

GUM  FOR  LABELS  AND  SPECIMENS. — 

4.  2  parts  of  gum  arabic,  1  part  of  brown  sugar ;  dis- 
solve in  water  to  the  consistency  of  cream. 

5.  6  parts  of  best  glue  soaked  in  18  to  20  parts  of 
water  for  a  day,  and  to  the  liquid  add  9  parts  of  rock 
candy  and  3  parts  of  gum  arabic. 

6.  Good  flour  and  glue,  to  which  add  linseed  oil,  varnish, 
and  turpentine,  \  ounce  each  to  the  pound.    Good  when 
labels  are  liable  to  get  damp. 


CHAPTER   IX. 

SEED-TABLES. 
i.  Quantity  of  Seed  required  to  sow  an  Acre. 

Asparagus 4  or  5  Ibs.,  or  1  oz.  for  50  ft.  of  drill. 

Beans,  Dwarf    ...  in  drills 1|  bu. 

"       Pole  ....       "  10tol2qts. 

Beet "  5  to  6  Ibs. 

Buckwheat    ....       "  1  bu. 

Cabbage in  beds  to  transplant .     .     .  ^  Ib. 

Carrot in  drills 2  to  4  Ibs. 

Cauliflower    .     .     .     .  1  oz.  of  seed  for  1000  plants 

Celery 1  oz.  for  2000  plants  .     . 

Clover for  orchards 8  to  16  Ibs. 

"        Crimson     .     .  for  orchards  and  vineyards    8  to  16  Ibs. 

Corn in  hills 8  to  10  qts. 

Cow-pea broadcast 2  bu. 

Cucumber      ....  in  hills     .   v.     .    .     .     .     .2  Ibs. 

Cress,  Water      ...  in  drills    .     .     *    .     .     .     .  2  to  3  Ibs. 

"      Upland    ...       "  2  to  3  Ibs. 

Egg-plant 1  oz.  of  seed  for  1000  plants 

Grass for  lawns 2  to  4  bu. 

Kale,  or  Sprouts 3  to  4  Ibs. 

Lettuce 1  oz.  of  seed  for  1000  plants 

Melon,  Musk     ...  in  hills 2  to  3  Ibs. 

"       Water    ...       «  ......     .  4  to  5  Ibs. 

Mustard broadcast £  bu. 

Onion in  drills 5  to  6  Ibs. 

"      Seed  for  Sets    .       "  30  Ibs. 

'*      Sets     ....       *«          6  to  12  bu. 

98 


SEED-TABLES. 


99 


Orchard  Grass 20to301bs. 

Parsnip in  drills 4  to  6  Ibs. 

Peas "          1  to  2  bu. 

" broadcast 2  to  3  bu. 

Potato  (cut-tubers) 7  to  8  bu. 

Pumpkin in  hills 4  to  5  Ibs. 

Radish in  drills 8  to  10  Ibs. 

Rye for  orchards      .     .     .     .     .  1  to  1 |  bu. 

Sage in  drills 8  to  10  Ibs. 

Salsify "  8  to  10  Ibs. 

Spinage "  10tol21bs. 

Squash,  Bash     ...  in  hills 4  to  6  Ibs. 

"         Running    .     .       "  3  to  4  Ibs. 

Tomato to  transplant \  Ib. 

Turnip in  drills 1  to  2  Ibs. 

"  broadcast 3  to  4  Ibs. 

Vetch Ibu. 

2.   Average  Time  required  for  Garden  Seeds  to  germinate. 

Days.  Days. 

Bean 5-10  Lettuce 6-8 

Beet 7-10  Onion 7-10 

Cabbage 5-10  Pea 6-10 

Carrot 12-18  Parsnip 10-20 

Cauliflower 5-10  Pepper 9-14 

Celery 10-20  Radish 3-6 

Corn 5-8  Salsify "  7-12 

Cucumber 6-10  Tomato 6-12 

Endive 5-10  Turnip 4-8 

3.  Weight  and  Size  of  Garden  Seeds. 
Adapted  from   Vilmorin's  Tables. 

Weight  of  a  qt.  of  Number  of  seeds 

seeds  in  ozs.  in  1  grain. 

Angelica 5.825  11.01 

Anise    .  .  11.65  12.96 


100 


HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 


Weight  of  a  qt.  of 
seeds  in  ozs. 


Number  of  seeds 
in  1  grain. 


Asparagus  Bean   (Dolichos 

sesquipedalis}      .    .    .  29.90  32.40  to  42.12 

Balm 21.35  129.60 

Basil 20.58  51.84 

Bean 24.26  to  33.01  4.86  to  5. 18  in  100  gr. 

Beet 9.71  3.24 

Borage 18.74  4.21 

Borecole 27.18  19.44 

Broccoli    .     .     .     .     .     .     .27.18  24.30 

Cabbage 27.18  19.44 

Caper 17.86  10.37 

Caraway 16.34  22.68 

Cardoon 24.46  1.62 

Carrot  with  the  spines  .    .    9.32  45.36 

"      without  the  spines  .  13.98  61.56 

Catmint 30.29  77.76 

Cauliflower 27.18  24.30 

Celery 18.64  162.00 

Chervil 14.76  29.16 

"      Sweet-scented     .    .    9.71  2.59 

"      Turnip-rooted     .     .  20.97  29.16 

Chicory 15.54  45.36 

Chick-pea 30.29  1.94  in  10  gr. 

Coriander 12.43  5.83 

Corn-salad 10.87  64.80 

Cress,  American    .     .     .     .20.97  61.56 
"      Common  Garden      .  28.35  29.16 
"      Meadow  (Cuckoo- 
flower)    .     .     .     .22.52  97.20 

"      Para 7.77  220.32 

"      Water 22.52  259.20 

Cucumber,  Common .     .     .  19.42  2.14 

"          Globe  .     .     .     .19.42  6.48 
"          Prickly -fruited 

Gherkin    .     .  21.36  8.42 


SEED-TABLES. 


101 


Weight  of  a  qt.  of 
seeds  in  ozs. 


Number  of  seeds 
in  1  grain. 


Cucumber,  Snake    (Cucu- 

mis  flexuosus}  17.48  2.59 

Dandelion 10.49  77.76  to  97.20 

Dill  .........  11.65  58.32 

Egg-plant 19.42  16.20 

Endive 13.20  38.88 

Fennel,  Common  or  Wild  .  17.48  20.09 

"       Sweet 9.13  8.10 

Gumbo,  see  OKRA. 

Good  King  Henry.     .     .     .24.27  27.86 

Gourds,  Fancy 17.48  1.29 

Hop 9.71  12.96 

Horehound 26.41  64.80 

Hyssop 22.33  55.08 

Kohlrabi 27.18  19.44 

Leek 21.36  25.92 

Lettuce 16.69  51.84 

Lovage 7.77  19.44 

Maize,  or  Indian  Corn  .     .  24.85  2.59  to  3.24  in  10  gr. 

Marjoram,  Sweet  .     .     .    .21.35  259.20 

"          Winter     .     .    .  26.15  777.60 

Martynia 11.26  1.29 

Muskmelon 13.98  3.56 

Mustard,  Black  or  Brown    26.15  45.36 

"        Chinese  Cabbage- 
leaved    .     .     .  25.63  42.12 

"        White,  or  Salad  .  29.12  12.96 

Nasturtium,  Tall  ....  13.20  4.54  to  5.18  in  10  gr. 

Dwarf    .     .     .  23.30  9.7    in  10  gr. 

Okra 24.08  9.7  to  11.66  in  10  gr. 

Onion 19.42  16.20 

Orach 5.44  .     16.20 

Pea 27.18  to  31.07  1.20  to  3.56  in  10  gr. 

44     Gray  or  Field    .     .     .  26.41  to  31. 07  3.24  to  5. 18  in  10  gr. 

Peanut 15.53  1.29  to  1.94  in  10  gr. 


102 


HORTICULTURIST  S   RULE-BOOK. 


Weight  of  a  qt.  of  Number  of  seeds 

seeds  in  ozs.  in  1  grain. 

Pepper 17.48  9.72 

Pumpkin       .......    9.71  1.94  in  10  gr. 

Purslane 23.69  162.00 

Radish 27.18  7.77 

Rampion  .     .    .    .    .     .     .31.07  1620.00 

Rhubarb 3. 10  to  4. 66  3.24 

Rocket  Salad 29.12  35.64 

Rosemary 15.54  58.32 

Rue 22.52  32.40 

Sage 21.36  16.20 

Salsify 8.93  6.48 

Savory,  Summer   ....  19.42  97.20 

"        Winter     ....  16.69  162.00 

Scorzonera 10.09  5.83 

Scurvy-grass 23.30  97.20  to  116.64 

Sea-kale 8.16  9.72  to  11.66  in  10  gr. 

Spinage,  Prickly -seeded     .  14.56  5.83 

"         Round-seeded    .  19.80  7.13 

"         New  Zealand     .    8.67  6.48  to  7.77  in  10  gr. 

Squash,  Bush-scallop     .     .  16.69  6.48 

Strawberry 23.30  51.84  to  162.00 

"         Elite  (Blitum)  .  31.07  324.00 

"         Tomato    (Phys- 

alis)      .    .    .  25.24  64.80 

Sweet  Cicely     .....    9.71  2.59 

Tansy 11.65  453.60 

Thyme 26.41  388.80 

Tomato 11.65  19.44  to  25.92 

Turnip 26.02  29.16 

Valerian,  African      .     .     .    4.27  16.20 

Watermelon 17.86  3.24  to  3.88  in  10  gr. 

Wax  Gourd.     .  ..    .     .     .  11.65  1.36 

Welsh  Onion,  Common      .  18.64  19.44 

Early  White  22.91  32.40 

Wormwood  .                       .  25.24  745.20 


SEED-TABLES.  103 
4.    Number  of  Tree-Seeds  in  a  Pound. 

FRUIT   TREES. 

About. 

Apple 12,000 

Cherry  Pits 1,000 

Peach 200 

Pear 15,000 

Plum 600 

Quince 15,000 

Mulberry 200,000 

FOREST    TREES. 

By  count. 

Butternut Juglans  cinerea    ...  15 

Black  Walnut Juglans  nigra  ....  25 

American  Horse-Chestnut   .     .  ^Esculus  glabra    ...  36 

Hickory  (Shellbark)    ....  Caiya  alba 78 

American  Sweet  Chestnut   .     .  Castanea  vesca,  var.     .  90 

Silver-leaved  Maple     ....  Acer  dascycarpum    .     .  2,421 

Honey-locust Gleditschia  triacanthos  2,496 

Black  Cherry Prunus  serotina   ...  4,311 

Black  Ash Fraxinus  sambucifolia  .  5,629 

American  Bass  wood   ....  Tilia  Americana  .     .     .  6,337 

Norway  Maple Acer  platanoides  .     .     .  7,231 

Sugar  Maple Acer  saccharinum     .     .  7,488 

Barberry Berberis  vulgaris      .     .  8,183 

Red  Cedar Juniperus  Virginiana    .  8,321 

Rock  Elm .  Ulmus  racemosa  .     .     .  8,352 

American  White  Ash       .     .     .  Fraxinus  Americana     .  9,858 

Osage  Orange Maclura  aurantiaca  .     .  10,656 

Silver  Fir Abies  pectinata    .     .     .  12,000 

Box  Elder Negundo  aceroides   .     .  14,784 

Hardy  Catalpa Catalpa  speciosa  .     .     .  19,776 

Ailanthus Ailanthus  glandulosus  .  20,161 

White  Pine Pinus  Strobus  ....  20,540 

Scarlet  Maple Acer  rubrum    ....  22,464 


104          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

By  count. 

Green  Ash Fraxinus  viridis   .    .  .    22,656 

Black  Locust Robinia  Pseudacacia  .    28,992 

Red  Elm Ulmus  fulva    ....  54,359 

American  White  Elm      .     .    .  Ulmus  Americana    .  .    92,352 

American  Mountain  Ash     .    .  Pyrus  Americana     .  .  108,327 

White  Birch Betula  alba 500,000 

5.    Longevity  of  Garden  Seeds. 

Adapted  from  Vilmorin's   Tables. 

The  plus  sign  denotes  that  the  seeds  had  not  all  lost  their 

germinating  power  at  the  termination  of  the  number  of  years 
recorded. 

Average  Extreme 

years.  years. 

Angelica 1  or  2  3 

Anise 3  6 

Asparagus  Bean  (Dolichos  sesquipedalis)  .     .            3  8 

Balm 4  7 

Basil 8  10+ 

Bean 3  8 

Beet    , 6  10+ 

Borage 8  10+ 

Borecole 5  10 

Broccoli  .     • 5  10 

Cabbage 5  10 

Caraway 4 

Cardoon 7  9 

Carrot,  with  the  spines 4  or  5  10+ 

"      without  the  spines 4  or  5  10+ 

Catmint 6  10+ 

Cauliflower 5  10 

Celery 8  10 

Chervil 2  or  3  6 

"      Sweet-scented 1  1 

"      Turnip-rooted 1  1 


SEED-TABLES. 


105 


Chicory 

Chick-pea 

Coriander 

Corn-salad,  Common 

Cress,  American 

"      Common  Garden 

"      Meadow  (Cuckoo-flower)  .... 

"      Para 

"      Water 

Cucumber,  Common 

"         Globe 

"         Prickly-fruited  Gherkin  .     .     . 
"         Snake  (Cucumis  flexuosus)     . 

Dandelion 

Dill 

Egg-plant 

Endive 

Fennel,  Common  or  Wild 

"       Sweet 

Gumbo,  see  OKRA. 

Good  King  Henry 

Gourds,  Fancy 

Hop 

Horehound 

Hyssop 

Kohlrabi 

Leek 

Lettuce,  Common 

Lovage    

Maize,  or  Indian  Corn 

Marjoram,  Sweet 

Winter     .     • 

Martynia 1  or  2 

Muskmelon 

Mustard,  Black  or  Brown 


Average 

Extreme 

years. 

years. 

8 

10+ 

3 

8 

6 

8 

5 

10 

3 

5 

5 

9 

4 

(?) 

5 

7  + 

5 

9 

10 

10  + 

6 

(?) 

6 

7  + 

7  or  8 

10+ 

2 

5 

3 

5 

6 

10 

10 

10+ 

4 

7 

4 

7 

3 

5 

6 

10+ 

2 

4 

3 

6 

3 

6 

5 

10 

3 

9 

5 

9 

3 

4 

2 

4 

3 

7 

5 

7 

lor  2 

(?) 

5 

10+ 

4 

9 

106          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 


Average 

Extreme 

years. 

years. 

Mustard,  Chinese  Cabbage-leaved  . 

...            4 

8 

"       White  or  Salad    .... 

...            4 

10 

Nasturtium,  Tall  

...            5 

5 

"          Dwarf  

...            5 

8 

Okra  

...            5 

10+ 

Onion      

...           2 

7 

Orach      

...            6 

7 

Parsnip  

...            2 

4 

Parsley   

...            3 

9 

Pea,  Garden     

...            3 

8 

"    Gray  or  Field    

...            3 

8 

Pepper    

...            4 

7 

Pumpkin      

.    .     .    4  or  5 

9 

Purslane      

...           7 

10 

Radish    

...            5 

10+ 

Rampion      

...            5 

10+ 

Rhubarb  

...            3 

8 

Rocket  Salad    

...            4 

9 

Rosemary    

...            4 

(?) 

Rue     

...            2 

6 

Sage   

...            3 

7 

Salsify     

...            2 

8 

Savory,  Summer  

...            3 

7 

"       Winter    

...            3 

6 

Scorzonera  

...            2 

7 

Scurvy-grass     

.     .     .            4 

7 

Sea-kale  

...            1 

7 

Spinage,  Prickly-seeded      .     .     .     . 

...            5 

7 

"        Round-seeded  

...            5 

7 

"        New  Zealand  

...            6 

8 

Squash,  Bush-scallop     

...            6 

10+ 

Strawberry  

...            3 

6 

"         Tomato  (Physalis)    .     . 

...            8 

10+ 

Sweet  Cicely    

...            1 

1 

Tansy     ••  .     .     . 

...            2 

4 

SEED-TABLES.  107 

Average  Extreme 

years.  years. 

Thyme 3  7 

Tomato 4  9 

Turnip 5  10+ 

Valerian,  African 4  7 

Watermelon 6  10 

Wax  Gourd 10  10+ 

Welsh  Onion,  Common 2  or  3          7 

"  Early  White     .......       3  8 

Wormwood   .......  4  6 


6.    Average  Yields  of  Seed-Crops. 

"When  crop  is  as  good 

as  20  bu.  of  wheat  When  cr°P  is 

per  acre  would  be.  very  heavy. 

Bean 600         Ibs.  per  acre  1500        Ibs.  per  acre 

Pea 900           "  "  2500           "       " 

Squash,  Summer,          100            "  "  700           "       " 

"       Winter  .         100           "  "  400           "      " 

Sweet  Corn     .     .1000  to  2500     "  "  2500  to  4000    "      " 

(according  to  variety) 

Cucumber  .    .    .         150           "  "  700           "      " 

Muskmelon    .    .         125           *«  *«  600           u      M 

Watermelon   .    .         150           "  "  1000           u      «« 

Tomato  ....          100           "  u  400           "       " 

Cabbage     ...         250           "  "  800           «'       " 

The  average  crop  is  probably  10  to  20  per  cent  less  than  the 
figures  given  in  the  first  column. 


CHAPTER  X. 

PLANTING-TABLES. 

i.  Dates  for  Sowing  or  Setting  Kitchen-Garden  Vegetables  in 
Different  Latitudes. 

(1)   LANSING,  MICHIGAN. 
Average  of  4  and  5  years. 

Bean,  Bush May  16. 

"      Pole May  30. 

Beet April  20. 

Broccoli May  10. 

Brussels  Sprouts May  10. 

Cabbage,  Early,  under  glass March  15. 

Cabbage,  Late May  20. 

Carrot May  7. 

Cauliflower,  under  glass March  15. 

Celery,  under  glass March  18. 

"      in  open  ground May  20. 

Corn May  19. 

Cucumber May  23. 

Egg-plant,  under  glass March  15. 

Kale May  9. 

Kohlrabi May  9. 

Lettuce May  5. 

Melon May  30. 

Okra May  15. 

Onion April  17. 

Parsnips May  7. 

Peas April  15. 

108 


PLANTING-TABLES.  109 

Pepper,  under  glass March  16. 

Potato May  3. 

Pumpkin May  31. 

Radish April  26. 

Salsify  .     . May  7. 

Spinage April  10. 

Squash May  28. 

Tomato,  under  glass March  13. 

Turnip April  16. 

(2)   BOSTON.     (Rawson.') 

Asparagus About  the  end  of  April. 

Bean,  Bush About  the  first  week  in  May. 

Bean,  Pole From  about  the  middle  of  May  to  the 

1st  of  June. 

Bean,  Lima About  the  1st  of  June. 

Beet About  the  middle  of  April. 

Borecole,  or  Kale  .     .     .  About  the  middle  of  April ;  plant  out 

in  June. 

Brussels  Sprouts  ...  In  March  or  April  in  hotbed. 
Cabbage Transplant  the  last  week  in  April  or 

the  1st  in  May. 

Carrots Last  of  May  or  1st  of  June. 

Cauliflower From  the  1st  of  May  until  the  1st  of 

July. 
Celery The  1st  week  in  April  to  the  2d  in 

July. 

Corn,  Sweet     ....  About  the  1st  of  May. 
Cucumber For  1st  crop,   about  the  middle   of 

March. 

Egg-plant About  March  15th  in  hotbed. 

Endive June  or  July. 

Kohlrabi May  or  June. 

Okra About  the  10th  of  May. 

Peas During  the  last  of  April  up  to  the 

1st  of  May. 


110          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

Pepper Put  out  of  doors  about  the  1st  of  April. 

Radish From  the  1st  of  April  to  the  middle 

of  June. 

Spinage About  the  1st  of  September. 

Tomato About  the  25th  of  May  set  plants  out- 
doors. 

Turnips,  for  fall  use  .     .  Any  time  from  July  1st  to  August  20th. 

Watermelon     ....  About  the  middle  of  May. 

(3)   NEW  YORK.     (Henderson.} 

Plants  to  sow  from  the  middle  of  March  to  the  end  of  April. 
Thermometer  in  the  shade  averaging  45  degrees. 

Beet.  Cauliflower.  Parsley. 

Carrot.  Endive.  Peas. 

Cress.  Kale.  Radish. 

Celery.  Lettuce.  Spinage. 

Cabbage.  Onions.  Turnip. 

Parsnip. 

From  the  middle  of  May  to  the  middle  of  June.     Thermometer 
in  the  shade  averaging  60  degrees. 


Bean,  Bush. 
Bean,  Cranberry. 
Bean,  Lima. 
Bean,  Pole. 
Bean,  Scarlet. 

Bean,  Runner. 
Corn,  Sweet. 
Cucumber. 
Melon,  Musk. 
Melon,  Water. 

Nasturtium. 
Okra. 
Pumpkin. 
Squash. 
Tomato. 

(4)   NORFOLK,  VIRGINIA. 

Months  in  which  different  crops  are  planted  or  sown,  or  set  out  in 
the  open  air. 

Kale  and  Spinach  Sown  during  August,. September,  and  October. 

Cabbage  .  .  .  The  seeds  are  sown  in  August  and  September, 
and  the  plants  are  transplanted  in  the 
open  air  in  November  and  December. 


PLANTING-TABLES . 


Ill 


Onions     .     .     .  Sown  in  August,    September,  January,  and 

February. 

Leeks  ....  The  same  as  onions. 
Lettuce     .     .     .  Sown  in  September  and  January. 
Radish      .     .     .  Sown  in  every  month  in  the  year. 
Peas     ....  December,  January,  February,  March,  April, 

August,  and  September. 
Beans  ....  March  and  April. 
Egg-plant      .     .  April  and  May. 
Tomatoes      .     .  April  and  May. 
Squash      .     .     .  April. 
Cauliflower  .     .  March  and  April. 
Potatoes  .     .     .  February,  March,  and  July. 
Sweet  Potatoes .  May. 
Beets   ....  February  and  March. 
Corn    ....  April,  May,  June,  and  July. 
Oats     ....  September,   October,    November,   December, 

February,  and  March. 

Millet  ....  June  and  July  ;  after  potatoes. 
Grass-seed     .     .  September,    October,    November,    February, 

and  March. 

Carrots     .     .     .  February  and  March. 
Celery ....  April  and  May. 
Cucumbers   .     .  April. 
Watermelons     .  April. 
Canteloupes .     .  April. 
Peanuts    .    .     .  May. 


(5)   GEORGIA.     (Oemler.} 

Asparagus     .     .  From  December  1st  to  the  middle  of  March. 
Bean,  Bush  .     .  From  the  1st  to  the  middle  of  March. 
Beet     ....  Through  November  and  December. 
Cabbage  .     .     .  From  the  1st  of  October  to  the  15th.     Trans- 
plant about  November  1st  and  later. 
Cauliflower  .     .  From  May  to  September. 
Cucumber     .     .  About  March  1st  to  the  15th. 


112          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

Egg-plant  .  .  To  prick  out,  about  the  middle  of  January, 
otherwise  ten  or  fifteen  days  later. 

Lettuce     .     .     .  About  the  middle  of  September. 

Onion  ....  About  January  1st. 

Pea About  December  1st. 

Potato ....  The  1st  of  February. 

Radish     .     .     .  From  Christmas  to  the  last  of  February. 

Spinage    .     .     .  From  September  10th  until  October  15th. 

Squash  .  .  .  About  the  last  of  February  up  to  the  middle 
of  March. 

Sweet  Potato     .  In  cold  frames,  about  the  1st  of  January. 

Tomato     .     .     .  About  January  1st. 

Watermelon .     .  About  the  15th  of  March. 

2.    Tender  and  Hardy  Vegetables. 

Vegetables  injured  by  a  slight  frost,  and  which  should  therefore  be 
planted  only  after  the  weather  has  settled. 

All  Beans.  Egg-plant.  Pumpkin. 

Corn.  All  Melons.  Squash. 

Cucumber.  Okra.  Sweet  Potato. 

Pepper.  Tomato. 

Vegetables  which,  when  properly  handled,  will  endure  a  frost. 

Asparagus.  Corn-salad.  Parsley. 

Beet.  Cress.  Parsnip. 

Borecole.  Endive.  Pea. 

Broccoli.  Horseradish.  Radish. 

Brussels  Sprouts.  Kale.  Rhubarb. 

Cabbage.  Kohlrabi.  Salsify. 

Carrot.  Leek.  Sea-kale. 

Cauliflower.  Lettuce.  Spinage. 

Celery.  All  Onions.  Turnip. 

3.    Usual  Distances  apart  for  planting  Fruits. 

Apples 30  to  40  feet  each  way. 

"     Dwarf  .  10  "  16     "      "        " 


PLANTING-TABLES.  113 

Pears 20  to  30  feet  each  way. 

"    Dwarf 10  "  15     "      "        " 

Plums 16  "  20     "       "        «• 

Peaches 16  "  20     "      "        " 

Cherries 16  "  25     "      "        " 

Apricots 16  "  20     "      "        «* 

Nectarines 16  "  20     "      «*        " 

Quinces 8  "  14     "       "        " 

Figs 20  "  25     "      "        " 

Mulberries 25  "  30     "      «•        «« 

Japanese  Persimmons 20  "  26     "      "        " 

Loquats 15  "  25     "       "         •• 

Pecans 36  "  40     "      "        " 

Grapes 8  "  12     "       "        «* 

Currants 4x5  feet. 

Gooseberries 4x5" 

Raspberries,  Black 3x6" 

"  Red 3x5" 

Blackberries 4x7  to  6x8  feet. 

Cranberries 1  or  2  ft.  apart  each  way. 

Strawberries 1  x    3  or  4  feet. 

Oranges  and  Lemons 25  to  30  feet  each  way. 

Distances  recommended  for  Orange  Trees  in  California. 

Dwarfs,  as  Tangerines 10  to  12  feet. 

Half-dwarfs,  as  Washington  Navel  .  24  "  30     " 
Mediterranean  Sweet,  Maltese  Blood, 

Valencia 24  «*  30     " 

St.  Michael 18  "  24     " 

Seedlings 30  "  40     " 

4.    Usual  Distances  apart  for  planting  Vegetables. 

Artichoke     .     .  Rows  3  or  4  ft.  apart,  2  to  3  ft.  apart  in  the 

row. 
Asparagus    .     .  Rows  3  to  4  ft.  apart,  1  to  2  ft.  apart  in  the 

row. 

i 


114 


HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 


Beans,  Bush  .     .  1  ft.  apart  in  rows  2  to  3  ft.  apart. 

"      Pole  .     .  3  to  4  ft.  each  way. 
Beet,  Early  .     .  In  drills  12  to  18  in.  apart. 

"     Late    .     .  In  drills  2  to  3  ft.  apart. 
Broccoli   .     .     .   1£  x  2J  ft.  to  2  x  3  ft. 
Cabbage,  Early .  16  x  28  in.  to  18  x  30  in. 

"        Late  .  2  x  3  ft.  to  2|  x  3^  ft. 
Carrot ....  In  drills  1  to  2  ft.  apart. 
Cauliflower   .     .  2  x  2  ft.  to  2  x  3  ft. 

Celery ....  Rows  3  to  4  ft.  apart,  6  to  9  in.  in  the  row ; 
"new  celery  culture,"  7x7  in.,  each  way. 
Corn-salad    .     .  In  drills  12  to  18  in.  apart. 
Corn,  Sweet .     .  Rows  3  to  3|  ft.  apart,  9  in.  to  2  ft.  in  the 

row. 

Cress  ....  In  drills  10  to  12  in.  apart. 
Cucumber     .     .  4  to  5  ft.  each  way. 
Egg-plant      .     .  3  x  3  ft. 
Endive      .     .     .  1  x  1  ft.  to  1  x  1|  ft. 
Horseradish  .     .  1  x  2  or  3  ft. 
Kohlrabi  .     .     .  10  x  18  in.  to  1  x  2  ft. 
Leek    .     .     .     .  6  in.  x  1  or  1£  ft. 
Lettuce     .     .     .  1  x  1£  or  2  ft. 
Melons,  Musk   .  5  to  6  ft.  each  way. 

"        Water  .  7  to  8  ft.  each  way. 
Mushroom     .     .  6  to  8  in.  each  way. 
Okra    .     .     .     .  1|  x  2  or  3  ft. 
Onion  ....  In  drills  from  14  to  20  in.  apart. 
Parsley     ...  In  drills  1  to  2  ft.  apart. 
Parsnip     ...  In  drills,  18  in.  to  3  ft.  apart. 
Peas     .     .     .     .  In  drills ;  early  kinds,  usually  in  double  rows, 
6  to  9  in.  apart ;  late  kinds,  in  single  rows, 
2  to  3  ft.  apart. 

Pepper     .     .     .  15  to  18  in.  x  2  to  2£  ft. 
Potato      i    .     .   10  to  18  in.  x  2£  to  3  ft. 
Pumpkin  .     .     .  8  to  10  ft.  each  way. 
Radish      ...  In  drills,  10  to  18  in.  apart. 
Rhubarb  .          .  2  to  4  ft.  x  4  ft. 


PLANTING-TABLES. 


115 


Salsify      ...  In  drills,  1£  to  2  ft.  apart. 
Sea-kale   .     .     .  2  x  2  to  3  ft. 
Spinage    ...  In  drills,  12  to  18  in.  apart. 
Squash,  Bush    .  3  to  4  ft.  x  4  ft. 
"      Late      .  6  to  8  ft.  each  way. 
Sweet  Potato     .  2  ft.  x  3  to  4  ft. 
Tomato    .     .     .  4  ft.  x  4  to  5  ft. 

Turnip      ...  In  drills,  1£ 

to  2|  ft.  apart. 

5- 

Number  of 

Plants  Required  to  Set 

an  Acre 

of  Ground  at 

Given  Distances 

. 

Plants. 

Plants. 

1 

in.  x   1  in. 

.     .  6,272,640 

Sin. 

x   5  in. 

.      .      418,175 

1 

"    x  2  "  . 

.     .  3,136,320 

3  » 

x   6  "  . 

.     .     348,480 

1 

"    x  3  "  . 

.     .  2,090,880 

3  " 

x   7  "  . 

.     .     298,697 

1 

"    x  4  "  . 

.     .  1,568,160 

3  " 

x   8  "  . 

.     .     261,360 

1 

"   x  5  »  . 

.     .  1,254,528 

3  " 

x   9  "  . 

.     .     232,320 

1 

"    x  6  "  . 

.     .  1,045,440 

3  " 

xlO  "  . 

.     .     209,088 

1 

"    x   7  "  . 

.     .     896,091 

3  » 

xll  u  . 

.     .     190,080 

1 

"    x   8  "  . 

.     .     784,080 

3  " 

x!2  "  . 

.     .      174,240 

1 

"    x   9  "  . 

.     .     696,960 

4  " 

x  4  "  . 

.     .     392,040 

1 

"   xlO  "  . 

.     .     627,269 

4  » 

X  6"  . 

.     .     313,632 

1 

"   xll  "  . 

.     .     570,240 

4  " 

x  6  u  . 

.     .      261,360 

1 

"    x!2  "  . 

.     .     522,720 

4  » 

x   7  «'  . 

.     .     224,022 

2 

"x  2  "  . 

.     .  1,568,160 

4  " 

x  8"  . 

.     .      196,020 

2 

"    x  3  "  . 

.     .  1,045,440 

4  " 

x  9  "  . 

.     .      174,240 

2 

u    x  4  "  . 

.     .     784,080 

4  " 

xlO  •'  . 

.     .      156,816 

2 

"    x   5  "  . 

.     .     627,264 

4  " 

xll  "  . 

.     .      142,560 

2 

"    x  6  "  . 

.     .     522;  720 

4  " 

x!2  ««  . 

.     .      130,680 

2 

"    x   7  "  . 

.     .     448,045 

5  " 

x  5  "  . 

.     .      250,905 

2 

"    x   8  "  . 

.     .     392,040 

5  " 

x  6  u  . 

.     .     209,088 

2 

"    x   9  "  . 

.     .     348,480 

5  " 

x   7  "  . 

.     .      179,218 

2 

"   xlO  "  . 

.     .     313,632 

5  " 

x  8  »  . 

.     .      156,816 

2 

"    xll  "  . 

.     .     285,120 

5  «• 

x  9  "  . 

.     .      139,392 

2 

"    x!2  "  . 

.     .      261,360 

5  " 

xlO  "  . 

.    ,     125,452 

3 

"    x  3"  . 

.     .     696,960 

5  " 

xll  "  . 

.    fc      114,048 

3 

"    x  4  "  . 

.     .     522,720 

5  " 

x!2  "  . 

.     .      104,544 

116 


HORTICULTURISTS   RULE-BOOK. 


Plants. 

Plants. 

6 

in 

X 

6 

in.  .     .     . 

174,240 

12  in 

X 

18 

in.  .     .     . 

29,040 

6 

u 

X 

7 

II 

149,348 

12  " 

X 

20 

u 

26,136 

6 
6 

u 
(t 

X 
X 

8 

9 

If 

M 

130,680 
116,160 

12  " 
or  1ft 

Jx24"or2ft. 

21,780 

6 

u 

X 

10 

U 

104,544 

12  in 

X 

30 

u 

17,424 

6 

u 

X 

11 

II 

95,040 

12  " 

X 

36 

"or  3  ft. 

14,520 

6 

u 

X 

12 

u 

87,120 

12  " 

x 

42 

ii 

12,446 

7 

i( 

X 

7 

II 

128,013 

12  " 

X 

48 

"or  4  ft. 

10,890 

7 

t  i 

X 

8 

II 

112,011 

12  " 

X 

54 

"    .     .     . 

9,680 

7 

it 

X 

9 

II 

99,562 

12  " 

X 

GO 

"  or  5  ft. 

8,712 

7 

u 

X 

10 

u 

89,609 

15  " 

X 

15 

u 

27,878 

7 

1  1 

X 

11 

II 

81,462 

15  " 

X 

18 

u 

23,232 

7 

u 

X 

12 

14 

74,674 

15  " 

X 

20 

« 

20,908 

8 

u 

X 

8 

u 

98,010 

15  " 

X 

24 

"or  2  ft. 

17,424 

8 

u 

X 

9 

u 

87,120 

15  " 

X 

30 

ii 

13,939 

8 

(1 

X 

10 

(( 

78,408 

15  " 

X 

36 

"or  3  ft. 

11,616 

8 

u 

X 

11 

II 

71,280 

15  " 

X 

42 

u 

9,953 

8 

u 

X 

12 

it 

65,340 

15  " 

X 

48 

"or  4  ft. 

8,712 

9 

u 

X 

9 

II 

77,440 

15  " 

X 

54 

ti 

7,744 

9 

u 

X 

10 

II 

69,696 

15  " 

X 

60 

"or  5  ft. 

6,969 

9 

II 

X 

11 

u 

63,360 

18  " 

X 

18 

u 

19,360 

9 

u 

X 

12 

(( 

58,080 

18  " 

X 

20 

II 

17,424 

10 

u 

X 

10 

II 

62,726 

18  " 

X 

24 

"or  2  ft. 

14,520 

10 

u 

X 

12 

u 

52,272 

18  " 

X 

30 

ii 

11,616 

10 

u 

X 

15 

II 

41,817 

18  " 

X 

36 

"or  3  ft. 

9,680 

10 

u 

X 

18 

II 

34,848 

18  " 

X 

42 

u 

8,297 

10 

u 

X 

20 

t( 

31,362 

18  " 

X 

48 

"or  4  ft. 

7,260 

10 

1  1 

X 

24 

41  or2ft. 

26,132 

18  " 

X 

54 

u 

6,453 

10 

1  1 

X 

30 

II 

20,908 

18  " 

X 

60 

"or  5ft. 

5,808 

10 

it 

X 

36 

"or  3  ft. 

17,424 

20  " 

X 

20 

ii 

15,681 

10 

u 

X 

42 

n 

14,935 

20  " 

X 

24 

"or  2  ft. 

13,168 

10 

fi 

X 

48 

"  or  4  ft. 

13,068 

20  " 

X 

30 

u 

10,454 

10 

" 

X 

54 

u 

11,616 

20  " 

X 

36 

"orSft. 

8,712 

10 

u 

X 

60 

"or  5  ft. 

10,454 

20  " 

X 

42 

u 

7,467 

12 

it 

X 

12 

ii 

43,560 

20  " 

X 

48 

"or  4  ft. 

6,534 

12 

u 

X 

15 

u 

34,848 

20  " 

X 

54 

u 

5,308 

PLAN  TING-TABLES . 


117 


Plants. 

Plants. 

20  in. 

X  60  in.  or  5  ft. 

5,227 

4ft. 

X  6  ft.  .  .  . 

1»6 

1  ft. 

x  1  ft. 

43,560 

4  « 

x  7  "  .  .  . 

1,556 

1  " 

x  2  "  .  .  . 

21,780 

4  " 

x  8  «'  .  .  . 

1,361 

1  " 

x  3"  .  .  . 

14,520 

4  " 

x  9  «  .  .  . 

1,210 

1  » 

x  4  "  .  .  . 

10,890 

4  " 

X  10  ««  .  .  . 

1,089 

1  " 

x  5  "  .  .  . 

8,712 

4  » 

x  11  "  .  .  . 

990 

1  " 

x  6  »  .  .  . 

7,260 

4  " 

x  12  "  .  .  . 

907 

1  " 

x  7  u  .  .  . 

6,223 

5  " 

x  5  "  .  .  . 

1,742 

1  " 

x  8  "  .  .  . 

5,445 

5  " 

X  6  "  .  .  . 

1,452 

1  " 

x  9  "  .  .  . 

4,840 

5  " 

x  7  "  .  .  . 

1,244 

1  " 

x  10  "  .  .  . 

4,356 

5  " 

x  8"  .  .  . 

1,089 

1  « 

x  11  "  .  .  . 

3,960 

5  «' 

x  9  "  .  .  . 

968 

1  " 

x  12  "  .  .  . 

3,630 

5  " 

x  10  »  .  .  . 

871 

2  " 

x  2  "  .  .  . 

10,890 

5  " 

x  11  "  .  .  . 

792 

2  » 

X  3  "  .  .  . 

7,260 

5  " 

x  12  «*  .  .  . 

726 

2  " 

x  4  «  .  .  . 

5,445 

6  » 

x  6  "  .  .  . 

1,210 

2  » 

x  5  "  .  .  . 

4,356 

6  " 

x  7  "  .  .  . 

1,037 

2  " 

x  6  «  .  .  . 

3,630 

6  " 

x  8  "  .  .  . 

907 

2  " 

x  7  "  .  .  . 

3,111 

6  " 

x  9  "  .  .  . 

806 

2  » 

x  8  "  .  .  . 

2,722 

6  " 

x  10  ««  .  .  . 

726 

2  " 

x  9  "  .  .  . 

2,420 

6  " 

x  11  "  .  .  . 

660 

2  " 

X  10  "  .  .  . 

2,178 

6  «' 

X  12  "  .  .  . 

605 

2  " 

X  11  "  .   .   . 

1,980 

7  '« 

x  7  "  .  .  . 

888 

2  " 

X  12  "  .  .  . 

1,815 

7  «* 

x  8  u  .  .  . 

777 

3  » 

x  3  "  .  .  . 

4,840 

7  " 

x  9  "  .  .  . 

691 

3  " 

x  4"  .  .  . 

3,630 

7  " 

x  10  "  .  .  . 

622 

3  " 

x  5"  .  .  . 

2,904 

7  «« 

x  11  "  .  .  . 

565 

3  « 

x  6"  .  .  . 

2,420 

7  " 

x  12  "  .  .  . 

518 

3  " 

x  7  "  .  .  . 

2,074 

8  " 

x  8  "  .  .  . 

680 

3  " 

x  8  "  .  .  . 

1,815 

8  " 

x  9  "  .  .  . 

605 

3  « 

x  9  "  .  .  . 

1,613 

8  " 

x  10  ««  .  .  . 

544 

3  » 

X  10  "  .  .  . 

1,452 

8  «« 

x  11  "  .  .  . 

495 

3  " 

x  11  "  .  .  . 

1,320 

8  u 

x  12  "  .  .  . 

453 

3  " 

x  12  "  .  .  . 

1,210 

9  u 

x  9  "  .  .  . 

537 

4  " 

x  4  «  .  .  . 

2,722 

9  " 

x  10  "  .  .  . 

484 

4  " 

x  6"  .  .  . 

2,178 

9  « 

x  11  "  .  .  . 

440 

118 


HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 


Plants. 

Plants. 

9ft. 

X  12  ft.  .  . 

.  .  403 

15  ft. 

x  48  ft.  . 

..  ,  .   60 

9  » 

X  14  "  .  . 

.  .345 

15  " 

x54"  . 

...    53 

9  " 

X  15  "  .  . 

.  .  322 

15  " 

x  60  "  . 

...   48 

9  " 

x  18  "  .  . 

.  .  268 

18  " 

x  18  "  . 

.  •  ..;  .  134 

9  " 

X  20  "  .  . 

.  ,  242 

18  «' 

x  20  "  . 

...   121 

10  " 

x  10  "  .  . 

.  .  435 

18  " 

x  24  "  . 

...  100 

10  " 

x  12  "  .  . 

.  ,  363 

18  " 

x  30  "  . 

...   80 

10  " 

x  15  "  .  . 

;.  .  290 

18  " 

x  36  "  . 

...   67 

10  » 

x  18  "  .  . 

.  •  ;  242 

18  " 

x  42  "  . 

...   57 

10  " 

x  20  "  .  . 

•:.  :-:  217 

18  " 

x  48  "  . 

...   50 

10  " 

x  24  "  .  . 

\  :';  181 

18  " 

x  54  "  . 

.-  ,  .   44 

10  " 

x  30  "  .  . 

.  .  145 

18  " 

x  60  "  . 

*•  \  .   40 

10  " 

x  36  «  .  . 

.  .   121 

20  " 

x  20  "  . 

...  108 

10  " 

x  42  u  .  . 

.  .  103 

20  " 

x  24  u  . 

...   90 

10  " 

X  45  "  .  . 

.  .   96 

20  " 

x  30  "  . 

...   72 

10  " 

x  48  "  .  . 

.  .   90 

20  " 

x  36  «  . 

...   60 

10  " 

x  54  "  .  . 

.  .   80 

20  " 

x  42  "  . 

...   51 

10  " 

x  60  "  .  . 

.  .   72 

20  " 

x  48  "  . 

...   45 

12  " 

X  12  "  .  . 

.  ..  302 

20  « 

x  54  "  . 

.  v,  .   40 

12  " 

X  15  "  .  . 

.  :.  242 

20  " 

x  60  ««  . 

,  .  .   36 

12  " 

x  18  "  .  . 

.  .  201 

24  " 

x  24  "  . 

...   75 

12  » 

x  20  "  .  . 

.  -  .  181 

24  " 

x  30  "  . 

...   60 

12  " 

x  24  "  .  . 

.  .  151 

24  «« 

x  36  "  . 

...   50 

12  " 

X  30  "  .  . 

.  .  121 

24  " 

x  42  "  . 

...   43 

12  " 

x  36  "  .  . 

.  .  100 

24  " 

x  48  "  . 

.'  .  .   37 

12  « 

x  42  "  .  . 

86 

24  " 

x  54  "  . 

...   33 

12  " 

X  48  "  .  . 

'  '.  :  :.   75 

24  «* 

x  60  "  . 

»  .  .   30 

12  " 

x  64  "  .  . 

.  .   67 

30  " 

x  30  "  . 

...   48 

12  " 

x  60  "  .  . 

.  :,   60 

30  « 

x  36  u  . 

,  -.  .   40 

15  " 

x  15  "  .  . 

.  .  193 

30  " 

x  42  "  . 

...   34 

15  " 

x  18  "  .  . 

.  .  161 

30  u 

x  48  "  . 

-.  .  .   30 

15  » 

x  20  "  .  . 

,  :.  145 

30  " 

x  54  "  . 

v  .  .   26 

15  " 

x  24  "  .  . 

.  .  121 

30  " 

x  60  u  . 

...   24 

15  " 

X  30  "  .  . 

.  .   96 

36  " 

x36"  . 

.  ..  .   33. 

15  " 

x  36  u  ..  . 

.  :.   80 

36  " 

x  42  "  . 

-.-.-.   28 

15  » 

x  42  "  .  . 

.  .   69 

36  " 

x  48  "  . 

...   25 

PLANTING-TABLES. 


119 


36  ft. 

x  54  ft. 

36  " 

x  60  " 

38  " 

x  38  " 

38  " 

x  40  " 

38  " 

x  42  " 

38  " 

x  48  " 

38  « 

X  50  " 

38  " 

x  54  " 

38  « 

x  60  " 

40  " 

X  40  " 

40  " 

x  42  " 

40  " 

x  48  " 

40  " 

x  50  " 

40  " 

x  54  " 

40  " 

X  60  " 

42  " 

x  42  " 

Plants. 

.    22 

42  ft. 

X  48  ft. 

20 

42  " 

x  54  " 

30 

42  " 

X60" 

.   28 

48  " 

x  48  " 

27 

48  " 

x  54  " 

23 

48  " 

x  60  " 

.   22 

50  " 

x  50  " 

21 

50  " 

x54" 

19 

50  " 

x  60  " 

27 

54  " 

x  54  " 

.   25 

54  " 

x60" 

22 

60  " 

x  60  " 

21 

70  " 

x  70  " 

.   20 

80  " 

x  80  " 

18 

90  " 

x  90  " 

24 

100" 

xlOO" 

Plants. 

.        21 

.       19 

17 

18 

.       16 
15 

.       17 

.       16 

14 

.       14 

.       13 

12 

8 

6 

5 

4 


To  find  the  number  of  plants  required  to  set  an  acre,  multiply 
together  the  two  distances,  in  feet,  at  which  the  trees  stand 
apart,  and  divide  43,560  by  the  product ;  the  quotient  will  be 
the  number  of  plants  required. 

QUINCUNX  PLANTING.  —  To  find  the  number  of  plants 
required  to  set  an  acre  by  the  quincunx  method,  ascertain 
from  the  above  tables  the  number  required  at  the  given  rec- 
tangular distances,  and  then  increase  the  number  by  one-half. 

6.  Model  Kitchen  Garden. 
( W.  W.  Tracy  ;  D.  M.  Ferry  &  Co.) 

It  is  important  to  have  the  garden  so  arranged  that  most  of 
the  work  can  be  done  by  horse  power.  We  can  best  point  out 
the  things  to  be  considered  in  the  arrangement  by  means  of  the 
accompanying  diagram.  The  points  gained  by  this  plan  are : 

First.  —  Ability  to  cultivate  the  ground.  All  but  a  strip 
seven  and  one-half  feet  wide  between  the  beets  and  bush 
beans  can  be  worked  by  any  common  one-horse  cultivator. 


120 


HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 


Second.  —  Placing  those  vegetables  which  may  stay  out  all 
winter  side  by  side,  where  they  will  not  interfere  with  next 
season's  plowing. 


6ft. 

6ft. 

4ft. 

4ft. 

9 
ft. 

8 

ft. 

^ 

S 

'ft 

4ft. 

4ft. 

4ft. 

4ft. 

6ft. 

8ft. 

8ft. 

f 

1 

'S. 

00 

2 

3 

2' 

c 

1 

1 

1 

2 

1 

1 

i 

,0 

S 

3 

3 



O 

b 

| 

Q) 

3 

p 

followed 

Mower. 

* 

o 

« 

3 
cr 

CQ 

fl 

o 

c3 

c 

02 

or  Peas 

O 

-: 

s 

•a 

r. 

I 

^Z 

Summ 

1 

J8 

8 

T3 

1 

\ 

S 

C 

1 

§ 

c 

03 

^ 

I 

3 

'S 

1 

1 

Early  Pot! 

Early  Cab 

s 

Lettuce,  e 

Onions,  w 

1 

3 

Late  Cabb 

Early  Con 

i 

Tomatoes 

Musk  and 

o1 

02 

b 

s. 

a 
S 

PLANTING-TABLES.  121 

Third.  —  Arranging  the  vegetables  very  nearly  in  the  order  in 
which  they  should  be  planted  or  set  out  in  the  spring.  This 
would  be  nearly  perfect,  except  in  case  of  the  cucumbers,  if 
the  late  cabbage  were  to  follow  the  tomatoes. 

Fourth.  —  Providing  for  easy  rotation  of  crops  by  simply 
reversing  (with  the  exception  of  the  permanent  row  of  aspara- 
gus and  that  of  the  parsnip  and  salsify)  the  plan. 

The  number  of  rows  of  each  vegetable,  and  the  relative  pro- 
portion of  each,  may  be  varied,  according  to  the  wants  of  the 
family,  but  the  proportion  given  here  will  be  found  to  suit  most 
families  who  depend  upon  the  garden  for  both  winter  and  sum- 
mer vegetables. 

If  necessary,  the  turning-ground  at  both  ends  may  be  filled 
with  winter  squashes,  as  they  are  planted  so  late  and  at  such 
a  distance  apart  that  they  would  not  seriously  hinder  the  turn- 
ing of  a  steady  horse  with  a  careful  driver. 

7.  Self-Fertile  and  Self-Sterile  Fruits. 

Some  varieties  of  fruits  are  more  or  less  completely  unable 
to  pollinate  themselves,  and  they  should  be  planted  near  other 
varieties  to  ensure  fruitfulness.  Any  variety  will  fertilize  any 
other  variety  of  the  same  species,  so  far  as  known,  if  the  bloom 
occurs  at  the  same  time.  In  general,  in  planting  a  self-sterile 
variety,  every  second  or  third  row  should  be  planted  to  some 
other  variety.  The  subject  is  little  understood,  but  the  follow- 
ing lists  represent  the  best  of  our  knowledge. 

PEARS  (Waite). 

Varieties  more  or  less  self-sterile.  —  Anjou,  Bartlett,  Bous- 
sock,  Clairgeau,  Clapp,  Columbia,  De  la  Chene,  Doyenne 
Sieulle,  Easter,  Gansels  Bergamotte,  Gray  Doyenne,  Howell, 
Jones,  Lawrence,  Louise  Bonne,  Mount  Vernon,  Pound,  Shel- 
don, Souvenir  du  Congress,  Superfin,  Colonel  Wilder,  Winter 
Nelis. 

Varieties  generally  self-fertile.  —  Angouleme,  Bosc,  Brock- 
worth,  Buffum,  Diel,  Doyenne  d'Alemjon,  Flemish  Beauty, 


122          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

Heathcote,   Kieffer,   Le    Coute,    Manning    Elizabeth,    Seckel, 
Tyson,  White  Doyenne. 

APPLES  (Waite  and  Fairchild). 

Varieties  more  or  less  self-sterile.  —  Bellfleur,  Chenango 
(Strawberry),  Gravenstein,  King,  Northern  Spy,  Norton 
Melon,  Primate,  Rambo,  Red  Astrachan,  Roxbury  Russet, 
Spitzenburgh,  Talman  Sweet. 

Varieties  mostly  self -fertile.  —  Baldwin,  Codlin,  Greening. 

"  The  varieties  of  apples  are  more  inclined  to  be  sterile  to  their 
own  pollen  than  the  pears.  With  the  former,  in  the  great  majority 
of  cases,  no  fruit  resulted  from  self-pollination.  The  results  as  a 
rule,  however,  were  less  clear-cut  than  in  the  pear,  because,  with 
most  of  the  self -sterile  varieties,  an  occasional  fruit  will  set  under 
self-pollination,  and  none  of  the  varieties  were  very  completely  self- 
fertile." —WAITE. 

OTHER  FRUITS. 

"  The  quince  seems  to  fruit  nearly  as  well  with  its  own  pollen  as 
with  that  of  another  variety."  — WAITE. 

Many  of  the  native  plums  are  notoriously  self -sterile,  par- 
ticularly Wild  Goose.  Other  self-sterile  varieties  are  Miner, 
Wazata,  Minnetonka,  Itaska.  Varieties  more  or  less  self- 
fertile  are  Moreman,  Newman,  Wayland,  Golden  Beauty, 
Marianna,  Deep  Creek,  Purple  Yosemite. 

Strawberries  often  lack  stamens  altogether,  whilst  others, 
like  Crescent,  have  so  few  and  so  poor  stamens  that  they  are 
practically  self-sterile.  Ordinarily,  there  should  be  a  row  of  a 
perfect-flowered  variety  for  every  two  rows  of  a  pistillate  or 
infertile  variety. 

GRAPES  (Beach). 

Unfruitful  when  planted  by  themselves.  —  Black  Eagle, 
Brighton,  Eumelan,  Massasoit,  Wilder,  Rogers'  No.  5,  Gaert- 
ner,  Merrimac,  Requa,  Aminia,  Essex,  Barry,  Herbert,  Salem. 

Able  to  set  fruit  of  themselves.  —  Concord,  Diamond,  Niagara, 
Winchell  or  Green  Mountain,  Rogers'  Nos.  13,  24,  and  32,  Aga- 
wam,  Delaware. 


CHAPTER  XI. 

MATURITIES,  YIELDS,  AND  MULTIPLICATION. 

i.  Time  required  for  Maturity  of  Different  Garden  Crops, 
reckoned  from  the  Sowing  of  the  Seeds. 

Beans,  String 45-  65  days  from  seed. 

"  Shell 65-  70  "  "  " 

Beets,  Turnip 65  "  "  " 

"  Long  Blood 150  "  "  " 

Cabbage,  Early 105  "  "  " 

"  .Late 150  "  "  " 

Cauliflower 110  "  "  «* 

Corn 75  "  "  " 

Egg-plant 150-160  "  u  «« 

Lettuce 65  "  "  " 

Melon,  Water 120-140  "  "  " 

«*  Musk 120-140  "  "  " 

Onion 135-150  "  "  " 

Pepper 140-150  "  "  «« 

Radish 30-  45  "  "  " 

Squash,  Summer 60-  65  "  ««  «« 

"  Winter 125  «*  "  «« 

Tomatoes 150  ««  ««  u 

Turnips 60-  70  "  "  «« 

2.  Time  required,  from  Setting,  for   Fruit- Plants  to  bear. 
(For  northern  and  central, latitudes.) 

Apple — 3  years.     Good  crop  in  about  10  years. 
Blackberry —  1  year.     Good  crops  in  2  and  3  years. 

Citrous  fruits  (oranges,  lemons,  etc.)  — 2  to  3  years.  Good 
crop  in  2  or  3  years  later. 

123 


124          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

Cranberry  —  3  years  gives  a  fair  crop. 
Currant  —  1  year.     Good  crops  in  2  and  3  years. 
Gooseberry  —  1  year.     Good  crops  in  2  and  3  years. 
Grape  —  Fair  crop  in  4  years. 
Peach  —  2  years.     Good  crop  in  4  and  5  years. 
Pear — 3  or  4  years.     Fair  crop  in  6  to  12  years;  dwarfs  in 
5  to  7  years. 

Persimmon,  or  Kaki  —  1  to  3  years. 
Quince — 2  years.    Good  crop  in  4  years. 
Raspberry  —  1  year.    Good  crop  in  2  and  3  years. 
Plum — 3  years.     Good  crop  in  5  or  6  years. 
Strawberry  —  1  year.     Heaviest  crop  usually  in  2  years. 

3.  Average  Profitable  Longevity  of  Fruit-Plants  under  High 
Culture. 

Apple  ....  25-40  years.  Pear     ....  50-75  years. 

Blackberry    .     .     6-12      "  Persimmon,  or  Kaki,  as  long 

Currant    ...        20      "  as  an  apple  tree. 

Gooseberry   .     .        20      "  Plum    ....  20-25  years. 

Orange  and  Lemon,  50  or  more.  Raspberry     .     .     6-12     «« 

Peach   ....     8-12  years.  Strawberry    .     .     1-3     " 

When  serious  trouble  from  diseases  is  to  be  apprehended, 
the  plantation  may  be  brought  into  early  fruiting  and  then 
destroyed  before  the  disease  makes  great  headway.  This  is 
particularly  applicable  to  blackberries,  raspberries,  and  straw- 
berries. 

4.  Average  Full  Yields  per  Acre  of  Various  Crops. 

The  yields  of  those  crops  in  which  the  salable  products  are 
equal  in  number  to  the  number  of  plants  per  acre,  and  in  which 
the  product  is  sold  by  the  piece,  are  to  be  calculated  from  the 
planting-tables  in  Chap.  X.  —  such  as  cabbage,  celery,  and 
the  like. 

Apples  —  A  tree  20  to  30  years  old  may  be  expected  to  yield 
from  25  to  40  bushels  every  alternate  year. 


MATURITIES,  YIELDS,  AND  MULTIPLICATION.      125 

Artichoke  — 200  to  300  bushels. 

Beans,  Green  or  Snap  —  75  to  120  bushels. 
"       Lima  —  75  to  100  bushels  of  dry  beans. 

Beets  — 400  to  700  bushels. 

Carrots  —  400  to  700  bushels. 

Corn  —  50  to  75  bushels,  shelled. 

Cranberry  — 100  to  300  bushels.  900  bushels  have  been  re- 
ported. 

Cucumber  —  About  150,000  fruits  per  acre. 

Currant — 100  bushels. 

Egg-plant  —  1  or  2  large  fruits  to  the  plant  for  the  large  sorts 
like  New  York  Purple,  and  from  3  to  8  fruits  for  the  smaller 
varieties. 

Gooseberry  — 100  bushels. 

Grape  —  3  to  5  tons.  Good  raisin  vineyards  in  California,  15 
years  old,  will  produce  from  10  to  12  tons. 

Horseradish  —  3  to  5  tons. 

Kohlrabi  —  500  to  1000  bushels. 

Onion,  from  seed  —  300  to  800  bushels.  600  bushels  is  a  large 
average  yield. 

Parsnips  — 500  to  800  bushels. 

Pea,  green  in  pod  — 100  to  150  bushels. 

Peach  —  In  full  bearing,  a  peach  tree  should  produce  from  5 
to  10  bushels. 

Pear  —  A  tree  20  to  25  years  old  should  give  from  25  to  45 
bushels. 

Pepper  — 30,000  to  50,000  fruits. 

Plum  —  5  to  8  bushels  may  be  considered  an  average  crop  for 
an  average  tree. 

Potato  — 100  to  300  bushels. 

Quince  — 100  to  300  bushels. 

Raspberry  and  Blackberry  —  50  to  100  bushels. 

Salsify  — 200  to  300  bushels. 

Spinage  — 200  barrels. 

Strawberry  — 75  to  250  or  even  300  bushels. 

Tomato  —  8  to  16  tons. 

Turnip — 600  to  1000  bushels. 


126 


HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 


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MATURITIES,  YIELDS,  AND  MULTIPLICATION.    127 

6.  Particular  Methods  by  which  Various  Fruits  are  multiplied. 

Barberry Cuttings  of  mature  wood  ;  seeds. 

Orange Seeds  ;  seedlings  budded  or  grafted. 

Figs Cuttings,  either  of  soft  or  mature  wood. 

Mulberry Cuttings  of  mature  wood.   Some  varieties 

are  root-grafted,  and  some  are  budded. 

Olive Cuttings  of  mature  or  even  old  wood. 

Chips  from  the  trunks  of  old  trees 
are  sometimes  used. 

Pomegranate      .     .     .  Cuttings,  layers,  and  seeds. 

Apple  and  Pear .     .     .  Seeds  ;  seedlings  budded  or  grafted. 

Peach  and  other  stone-fruits  — 

Seeds  ;  seedlings  budded.  Peach  trees 
are  sold  at  one  year  from  the  bud,  but 
other  stone-fruit  trees  are  planted 
when  two  or  three  years  old. 

Quince Cuttings,   usually ;    the  cuttings  often 

grafted. 

Grape Cuttings  of  from  one  to  three  buds ; 

layers. 

Currant  and  Gooseberry  — 

Cuttings. 

Raspberries,  red     .     .  Suckers  from  the  root ;  root-cuttings. 

"        black    .     .  Layers  from  tips  of  canes  ;  root-cuttings. 

Blackberry     ....   Root-cuttings  ;  suckers  from  the  root. 

Dewberry Layers  of  tips  of  the  canes;  root-cut- 
tings. 

Dwarf  Juneberry    .     .  Sprouts  or  suckers  from  the  root. 

Cranberry      ....  Layers  or  divisions. 

Strawberry    ....  Runners;  tip-cuttings. 

7.   Stocks  used  for  Various  Fruits. 
Almond     .....  Peach,  hard-shelled  almond,  plum. 
Apple Common  apple  seedlings,  Paradise  and 

Doucin  stocks,  crab-apple  and  wild 

crab. 


128          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

Apricot Apricot  and  peach  in  mild  climates,  and 

plum  in  severe  ones.     Marianna. 

Cherry Mazzard  stocks  are  preferred  for  stand- 
ards ;  Mahaleb  stocks  are  used  for 
dwarfing.  The  wild  pin-cherry 
(Prunus  Pennsylvania')  is  some- 
times used  as  stock  in  the  North- 
west, on  account  of  its  hardiness. 
Seedlings  of  Morello  cherries  are 
also  used  there. 

Medlar Hawthorn,  medlar,  quince. 

Mulberry Seedlings  of  white  and  Russian  mul- 
berry ;  cuttings  of  Downing. 

Orange Seedlings  ;  Otaheite  orange,  shaddock  ; 

Citrus  trifoliata,  particularly  for 
dwarfs. 

Peach  and  Nectarine  .  Peach.  Plum  is  often  used  when  dwarfs 
are  wanted,  or  when  the  peach  must 
be  grown  in  a  too  severe  climate  or 
upon  heavy  soil. 

Pear Pear  (seedlings  of  common  pear  and 

the  Chinese  type).  Quince  (rarely 
mountain  ash,  or  thorn)  for  dwarfs. 
Apple  temporarily. 

Persimmon,  Japanese  .  Native  persimmon. 

Plum  ..J-* — . — s  .  .  Plum,  myrobalan  plum,  peach ;  Mari- 
anna. 

Quince The  finer  varieties  are  sometimes  grafted 

upon  strong-growing  kinds  like  the 
Angers.  When  cuttings  are  difficult 
to  root,  they  are  sometimes  grafted 
upon  apple  roots,  the  foster-root 
being  removed  upon  transplanting, 
if  it  does  not  fall  away  of  itself. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

COMPUTATION  TABLES. 

I.   TABLES  OF  CUSTOMARY  WEIGHTS  AND  MEASURES. 

i .  Avoirdupois  or  Commercial  Weight. 

grains =1  dram. 

16     drams =1  ounce. 

16      ounces =1  pound. 

25     pounds =1  quarter. 

4  quarters,  or  100  pounds    .     .     .     .  =  1  hundredweight. 

20  hundredweight,  or  2000  Ibs.  .     .     .  =  1  ton. 

480      pounds =1  imperial  quarter. 

100     pounds  is  also  called 1  cental. 

t.      cwt.          Ih.  oz.  dr.  gr. 

1  =  20  =  2000  =  32,000  =  512000 
1  =    100  =    1,600  =    25600 

1  =         16  =       256  =  7000 
1  =         16  =  43Z5 

2.  Troy  or  Jewelers'  Weight. 

24  grains =1  pennyweight. 

20  pennyweights       =1  ounce. 

12  ounces =1  pound. 

lb.       OZ.        pwt.          gr. 

1  =  12  =  240  =  5760 

1  =    20  =    480 

1=     24 

3.  Apothecaries'  Weight. 

20  grains =1  scruple. 

3  scruples =1  dram. 

K  129 


130 


HORTICULTURIST  S  RULE-BOOK. 


8  drams 
12  ounces 


=  1  ounce. 

=  1  pound. 

lb.      07..       dr.       scr.          gr. 

1  =  12  =  96  =  288  =  5760 

1=    8=    24  =    480 

1  =     3  =     60 

1  =     20 

4.  Table  of  Comparative  Weights. 


Troy. 
5760  gr.  =  1  lb. 


Apothecaries. 
5760  gr.  =  1  lb. 


Avoirdupois. 

7000  gr.  =  1  lb. 

lib. 
or  144  Ibs.       =     175       Ibs.     =      175       Ibs. 

loz.        =  i*foz.      =  tffoz. 

or  192  oz.        =     175       oz.      =      175       oz. 

5.  Dry  Measure. 

2  pints =1  quart. 

8  quarts =1  peck. 

4  pecks =1  bushel. 

8  bushels  (480  pounds) =1  quarter. 

36  bushels =1  chaldron. 

bu.    pk.     qt.       pt. 

1  =  4  =  32  =  64 

1  =    8  =  16 

1=2 

6.   Liquid  Measure. 

4  gills =1  pint. 

2  pints =1  quart. 

4  quarts =1  gallon. 

31V  gallons =  1  barrel. 

2  barrels,  or  63  gallons =  1 

gal.    qt.     pt.     gi. 

1  =  4  =  8  =  32 

1  =  2=8 

1=   4 


COMPUTATION  TABLES.  131 

7.  Apothecaries'  Fluid  Measure. 
60  minims =1  fluid  dram. 

8  fluid  drams =1  fluid  ounce. 

16  fluid  ounces =  1  pint. 

8  pints =1  gallon. 

cong.    o.      f.  ^.        f.  3.  m. 

1  =  8  =  128  =  1024  =  61,440 
1=    16=    128=    7,680 
1  =        8  =       480 
1  =         60 
1  minim  equals  1  drop  of  water. 

8.   Line  or  Linear  Measure. 

12    inches =1  foot. 

3    feet =1  yard. 

5£  yards,  or  16 1  feet =  1  rod  or  pole. 

40    rods =1  furlong. 

8    furlongs  (320  rods) =  1  mile  (statute  mile). 

3  miles =1  league. 

1.      mi.     fur.       rd.          yd.  ft.  in. 

1  =  3  =  24  =  960  =  5280    =  15,840    =  190,080 

1  =    8  =  320  =  1760    =    5,280    =    63,360 

1=    40=  220    =       660    =      7,920 

1  =       5£  =         16J  =         198 

1    =  3    =  36 

1    =  12 

9.  Surveyors'  or  Chain  Measure. 

7.92  inches =1  link. 

25       links =1  rod  or  pole 

4  rods,  or  66  feet =1  chain. 

80       chains =1  mile. 

mi.      ch.         rd.  1.  in. 

1  =  80  =  320  =  8000  =  63,360 
1=     4=    100=       792 
1  =     25  =       198 

1  =          7.92 


132          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

10.  Square  or  Surface  Measure. 

144    square  inches =1  square  foot. 

9    square  feet    ....    .     .     .     .  =  1  square  yard. 

30  £  square  yards =  1  sq.  rod  or  perch. 

100    square  rods =1  acre. 

640    acres =  1  sq,  mile  or  section. 

sq.m.     a.  sq.  rd.  sq.  yd.  sq.  ft.  sq.  in. 

1  =  640  =  102,400  =  3,097,600    =  27,878,400    =  4,014,489,600 

1  =         160  =         4,840    =         43,560    =         6,272,640 

1  =  30^  =  272£  =  39,204 

1=  9.    =  1,296 

1    =  144 

11.  Surveyors'  Square  Measure. 

625  square  links =1  square  rod  or  pole. 

16  poles =1  square  chain. 

10  square  chains =1  acre. 

640  acres =  1  sq.  mile  or  section. 

36  square  miles  (6  miles  square)     .     .  =  1  township. 

tp.  sq.  mi.         a.  sq.  ch.  sq.  rd.  sq.  1. 

1  =  36  =  23,040  =  230,400  =  3,686,400  =  2,304,000,000 

1  =       640  =      6,400  =     102,400  =       64,000,000 

1=  10=  160=  100,000 

1  =  16  =  10,000 

1  =  625 

12.  Solid  or  Cubic  Measure. 

1728    cubic  inches =1  cubic  foot. 

27    cubic  feet =1  cubic  yard. 

16    cubic  feet =1  cord  foot. 

8    cord  feet,  or  128  cubic  feet      .     .  =  1  cord  of  wood. 
24|  cubic  feet =1  perch. 

cu.yd.  cu.ft.      cu.  in.        cd.  cd.  ft.  cu.  ft.        cu.  in. 
1  =  27  =  46,656  =  1  =  8  =  128  =  221,184. 

13.  Miscellaneous  Measures. 

fa  of  an  inch =  a  line  (American). 

•     of  an  inch .     .     .  =  a  line  (French). 


COMPUTATION   TABLES.  133 

j  of  an  inch    .     ...    .    .    ..    .  =  a  size  (of  shoes). 

3  inches      .     .'  .     .     .     .     .    I     .  =  a  palm. 

4  inches .-*.'.     .  =  a  hand. 

9    inches =  a  span. 

18    inches =  a  cubit. 

2^  feet     .     .     .     ./.'.'    ....  =  a  military  pace. 

3  (or  3.3)  feet =  a  pace. 

A  wine  gallon =     231        cubic  inches. 

A  dry  gallon =     268.8  " 

An  imperial  gallon =     277.274          " 

An  imperial  or  English  bushel  .     .     .=2,218.192          " 

A  U.  S.  bushel =  2,150.42  « 

A  U.  S.  bushel  heaped  (heaped  to  a 

cone  6  inches  high) =2,747.7  " 

1  pint  of  water  weighs  1.0431  pounds. 

1  gallon  of  water  weighs  8.3448  pounds. 

1  cubic  foot  of  water  weighs  62.425  pounds  at  39.2°  F. 

An  English  (statute)  mile  is 1760  yards. 

A  Scotch  mile  is 1984      " 

An  Irish  mile  is 2249      " 

A  Dutch  mile  is 8101      " 

A  Roman  mile  is 1628      " 

A  German  mile  is 6859      " 

A  Russian  mile  is 1100  '    " 

An  Arabian  mile  is 2148      " 

A  sea  (nautical)  mile  is      .     .     .  * 2026      " 

1  tael  (Chinese)  is 1£  oz.  avoir. 

1  Danish  pound  is 1.102  Ib.  avoir. 

1  Russian  pound  is 9  " 

1  libra  (Spanish)  is 1.014       " 

100  pounds  nails =1  keg. 

196  pounds  flour =1  barrel. 

150  pounds  potatoes =1  barrel  of  freight. 

14.  Approximate  value  of  household  measures : 
45  drops  of  water  is  a  teaspoon  ful. 
1  teaspoonful  equals  1  fluid  dram. 


134 


HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE -BOOK. 


1  dessertspoonful  equals  2  teaspoonfuls,  or  2  drams. 

1  tablespoonful  equals  2  dessertspoonfuls,  or  4  teaspoonfuls. 

2  tablespoonfuls  equal  8  teaspoonfuls,  or  1  fluid  ounce. 
1  common-size  wineglassf  ul  equals  2  ounces,  or  \  gill. 

1  common-size  tumbler  holds  ^  pint. 

A  small  tea-cup  is  estimated  to  hold  4  fluid  ounces,  or  1  gill. 

1  pound  of  wheat  is  equal  to  about  1  pint. 

1  pound  and  2  ounces  of  Indian  meal  is  equal  to  1  quart. 

1  pound  of  soft  butter  is  equal  to  about  1  pint. 

1  pound  of  sugar  is  equal  to  about  1  pint. 

A  pint  of  pure  water  is  about  a  pound. 

II.   METRIC  WEIGHTS  AND  MEASURES. 
15.  Weight. 


NAMES. 

NUMBER  OF 
GRAMS. 

EQUIVALENTS  IN  DENOMINATIONS 
OF  AVOIRDUPOIS  WEIGHT. 

Millier  or  Tonneau, 

1,000,000 

2204.6       pounds. 

Quintal, 

100,000 

220.46      pounds. 

Myriagram, 

10,000 

22.046    pounds. 

Kilogram  or  Kilo, 

1,000 

2.2046  pounds. 

Hectogram, 

100 

3.5274  ounces. 

Dekagram, 

10 

0.3527  ounce. 

Gram, 

1 

15.432    grains. 

Decigram, 

A 

1.5432  grains. 

Centigram, 

Tory 

0.1543  grain. 

Milligram, 

1000' 

0.0154  grain. 

1  gram  is  the  weight  of  1  cubic  centimeter  of  distilled  water 
at  its  maximum  density  (39.1°  Fahr.)  in  a  vacuum.  As  a 
matter  of  fact,  however,  the  gram  now  in  use  is  the  one- 
thousandth  part  of  the  weight  of  a  kilogram  of  platinum,  which 
was  deposited  in  the  Palace  of  the  Archives  in  Paris,  in  1799, 
by  the  international  commission,  which  was  appointed  to  fix 
the  standards  of  what  is  now  known  as  the  metric  system. 


COMPUTATION   TABLES. 


135 


16.   Capacity. 


NAMES. 

NUMBER 

OF 

EQUIVALENTS  IN  DRY 
MEASURE. 

EQUIVALENTS  IN 
LIQUID  OR 

LITERS. 

WINE  MEASURE. 

Kiloliter  or  Stere, 

1,000 

1.308  cubic  yards. 

264.17     gallons. 

Hectoliter, 

100 

2  bush,  and  3.35  pecks. 

26.417    gallons. 

Dekaliter, 

10 

9.08     quarts. 

2.6417  gallons. 

Liter, 

1 

0.908    quart. 

1.0567  quarts. 

Deciliter, 

& 

6.1022  cubic  inches. 

0.845    gill. 

Centiliter, 

ife 

0.6102  cubic  inch. 

0.338  fluid  oz. 

Milliliter, 

T5\»T 

0.061    cubic  inch. 

0.27     fluid  dr. 

1  liter  is  equivalent  to  1  cubic  decimeter. 
17.  Length. 


EQUIVALENTS  IN  DENOMINATIONS  IN 
USE. 


Myriameter, 

Kilometer, 

Hectometer, 

Dekameter, 

Meter, 

Decimeter, 

Centimeter, 

Millimeter, 


10,000  meters. 
1,000  meters. 
100  meters. 
10  meters. 
1   meter. 
i5  of  a  meter. 
T&ir  of  a  meter, 
icinr  of  a  meter. 


6.2137  miles. 

0.62137  mile,  or  3.280  ft.  10  in. 

328  ft.  1  in. 

393.7  inches. 

39.37  inches. 

3.937  inches. 

0.3937  inch. 

0.0397  inch. 


Surface. 


Hectare,     10,000  square  meters. 
Are,  100  square  meters. 

Centare,  1  square  meter. 


2.471  acres. 
119.6     square  yards. 
1550        square  inches. 


136 


HORTICULTURIST  S   RULE-BOOK. 


1  8.    Cubic  Measure. 

Myriaster  ........     10,000  cu.  meters. 

Kiloster      ........      1,000  cu.  meters. 


100  cu.  meters. 
10  cu.  meters. 
1  cu.  meter. 
rV  cu«  meter. 
Ti^  cu.  meter. 
cu.  meter. 


Hectoster  ........ 

Decaster    ........ 

Ster  .......... 

Decister     ........ 

Centister    ........ 

Minister     ........ 

The  word  ster  is  seldom  used.  The  names  of  solid  measures 
are  commonly  made  by  adding  cubic  to  the  denominations  of 
linear  measure  ;  as  cubic  meter,  cubic  decimeter,  and  the  like. 

ig.    Equivalents  of  Common  Measures  in  Metric  Terms. 

LENGTH. 

Approximately.  Exactly. 

1  inch            is        2£  centimeters  .......  (2.54) 

1  foot            "        0.3  of  meter  ........  (.3048) 

1  yard           «         0.9     "           ........  (.9144) 

1  rod             "        5    meters      ........  (5.029) 

1  chain          "20        "          ........  (20.117) 

1  furlong       "200         "           ........  (201.17) 

Imile            "  1600         "           ........  (1609.3) 

AREA. 

1  sq.  inch     is         6|      sq.  centimeters    .....  (6.451) 

1  sq.  foot      "         0.09  of  sq.  meter    ......  (.0929) 

1  sq.  yard     "         0.83     "        "         ......  (.8361) 

1  sq.  rod       "       25        sq.  meters  .......  (25.29) 

Irood           "   1000          "        "    .......  (1011.7) 

1  acre           "         0.4    of  hectare  .......  (.4047) 

1  sq.  mile     "     258       hectares      .......  (258.99) 

BULK. 

1  cubic  inch  is  161        cubic  centimeters      ....  (16.387) 

1  cubic  foot  "    0.028  of  cubic  meter  ......  (.028316) 


COMPUTATION   TABLES. 


137 


1  cubic  yard 


is    0.76    of  cubic  meter  .     .     .      (.7645) 


100  cubic  feet  "    2.8  cubic  meters     .     .     .  (2.8316) 

1  M  board  meas.  "    2|  "          "          ...  (2.36) 

1  cord  "    3.6  "          "          ...  (3.624) 

1  U.  S.  liq.  pint  "    0.47    of  liter (.473) 

1      "           quart  "0.9          "            (.946) 

1     "           gallon  "    3.7      liters         (3.785) 

1  peck  "9  "       (U.  S.    8.81.    Eng.    9.08) 

1  bushel  "36  "      (U.  S.  35.24.   Eng.  36.35) 

WEIGHT. 

1  grain  is    0.061  of  gram (.0648) 

1  troy  oz.  "  31         grams (31.103) 

1  avoir,  oz.  "28            "        (28.35) 

1  avoir,  pound  "    0.45    of  kilo (.4536) 

601bs.  (wheat  bu.)  "  27         kilos (27.216) 

801bs.  (coalbu.)  "36            "        (36.287) 

1  cental  "45            "        (45.36) 

112  Ibs.  (cwt.)  "50            "        (50.8) 

1  net  ton  "    0.9  metric  ton     ....  (.9072) 

1  gross  ton  "1  "         "      .    .    .    .  (1.016) 


III.   MONEY  TABLES. 
20.  English  Money. 

4  farthings  (gr.) =1  penny  (d.) . 

12  pence .     .     .  =  1  shilling  (s.). 

20  shillings =1  pound  or  sovereign  (£). 

21  shillings =1  guinea  (<?.). 

£.       s.          d.  qr. 

1  =  20  =  240  =  960 

1  =    12  =    48 

1=      4 

1  pound  is  about  $4.86. 


138          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 


21.  French  Money. 

10  millimes  (m.)     ......  =1  centime  (c.). 

10  centimes  ........  =1  decime  (d.). 

10  decimes     ........  =1  franc  (/r.). 

fr.       d.  c.  m. 

1  =  10  =  100  =  1000 
1  =    10  =    100 
1=      10 
1  franc  is  nearly  20  (19.3)  cents. 

22.  German  Money. 

100  pfennige  (pf.)  ......  =1  mark  (MM."). 

A  mark  is  about  24  cents. 

23.  Dutch  Money. 

100  cents  .........  =1  florin  or  guilder. 

A  florin  is  40  cents. 

24.  Italian  Money. 

100  centesimi     .......  =1  lira. 

A  lira  is  nearly  20  (19.3)  cents. 

25.  Spanish  Money. 

100  centimes      .......  =1  peseta. 

1  peseta  is  nearly  20  (19.3)  cents. 

26.  Russian  Money. 

100  copecks  ........  =1  rouble. 

A  rouble  is  about  54  cents. 

27.  Austrian  Money. 

100  kreutzer  ........  =1  florin. 

A  florin  is  about  33  cents. 


COMPUTATION   TABLES. 


139 


28.  Money  Table.     (Baedeker.} 


ENGLISH. 

DUTCH. 

FRENCH  AND 
BELGIAN. 

GERMAN. 

AMERICAN. 

£. 

8. 

d. 

florin. 

cent. 

frunc. 

cent. 

mark. 

pfg. 

dollar. 

cent. 

1 

12 

25 

20 

4 

76 

19 

11 

40 

23 

75 

19 

4 

53 

18 

10 

80 

22 

50 

18 

4 

20 

17 

10 

20 

21 

25 

17 

4 

5 

16 

9 

60 

20 

16 

3 

81 

15 

9 

18 

75 

15 

3 

57 

14 

8 

40 

17 

50 

14 

3 

34 

13 

7 

80 

16 

25 

13 

3 

10 

12 

7 

20 

15 

12 

2 

86 

11 

6 

60 

13 

75 

11 

2 

62 

10 

6 

12 

50 

10 

2 

38 

9 

5 

40 

11 

25 

9 

2 

14 

8 

4 

80 

10 

8 

1 

91 

7 

4 

20 

8 

75 

7 

1 

67 

6 

3 

60 

7 

50 

6 

1 

43 

5 

3 

6 

25 

5 

1 

19 

4 

2 

40 

5 

4 

95 

3 

1 

80 

3 

75 

3 

71 

2 

1 

20 

2 

50 

2 

48 

1 

8* 

1 

2 

15 

1 

70 

41 

1 

7 

96 

2 

1 

60 

38 

1 

60 

1 

25 

1 

24 

9f 

48 

1 

80 

19 

9 

45 

94 

75 

18 

8 

40 

83 

66 

16 

7 

35 

73 

58 

14 

6 

30 

62 

50 

12 

5 

25 

52 

41 

10 

4 

20 

42 

33 

8 

3 

15 

31 

25 

6 

2 

10 

21 

16 

4 

1 

5 

10 

8 

2 

140 


HORTICULTURIST  S   RULE-BOOK. 


IV.   LEGAL  AND  STANDARD  MEASURES  OF  THE  VARIOUS  STATES 
(CORRECTED  TO  THE  CLOSE  OF  1894). 

29.    Legal  or  Customary  Weights  of  a  Bushel  of  Produce  in 
Various  States. 


STATES. 

t/D 

_0 

"5< 

i 
% 

^ 

t/r 
• 
~, 

ins,  Castor.  | 

S 

'£ 

£ 

•n 

S 

jkwheat. 

*4 

c3 

9) 

a 

•n,  shelled. 

to 

a 

0 

1 
13 

,3 

00 

S 

«fl 

atoes.Sweet. 

a 

& 

| 

3 

18 
?{ 

K 

< 

a 
«fl 

i 

1 

3 
W 

o 
O 

a 

5 

1 

£ 

2 

1 

3 

9 

;H 

•^ 

Arkansas  

24 

*• 

60 

52 
10 

70 

5(5 
5~> 

87 

••' 

60 

50 

(50 

14 

57 

60 
60 

Colorado 

60 

50 

70 

5(i 

57 

60 

14- 

60 

Connecticut 

(>0 

4S 

56 

51) 

60 

60 

50 

Delaware 

56 

60 

Georgia  
Illinois  

v 

24 
24 

46 

(50 
(50 

52 
52 

70 
70 

56 

56 

57 
57 

38 

M 

60 
60 

55 
50 

50 

14 
14 

55 
55 

60 

60 

Indiana  
Iowa  

48 

25 

18 

(56 
16 

60 
60 

50 

5? 

68 
70 

5(5 
5(i 

48 
57 

33 
38 

60 
(iO 

55 
46 

14 

(50 

''1 

11 

60 

50 

70 

51  i 

57 

33 

60 

50 

11 

55 

(50 

Kentucky    

94 

°l 

15 

(50 

56 

70* 

5li 

57 

•V) 

60 

55 

60 

14 

60 

60 

75 

60 

Maine  
Maryland  
Massachusetts.  .. 
Michigan  
Minnesota  

4.4 

48 
48 

•18 

28 
25 
22 
28 
°1 

60 
60 

46 
16 

60 

(50 
60 
60 

(50 

48 
48 
48 
48 
42 
5° 

70 
70 

56 
56 
56 
56 

56 
56 

52 
56 
57 
54 

57 

40 

28 

28 
T-i 

60 
56 
60 
60 
60 
60 

56 
54 
56 

56 

60 
62 
(50 
60 

60 

14 
14 
11 

50 

5(5 

58 

42 

60 
(50 
60 
60 
60 
(50 

|0 

5li 

57 

150 

50 

60 

°1 

16 

60 

5° 

70 

56 

57 

*n 

60 

50 

60 

1  i 

55 

60 

(50 

56 

New  Hampshire. 
New  Jersey  

50 

°5 

60 

60 
60 

50 

51  i 
51) 

57 

60 
60 

54 

(50 
(50 

50 

(50 

New  York  .  . 

(i9 

18 

5S 

60 

60 

North  Carolina.  . 
Ohio 

•is 

00 

•• 

(50 

50 
50 

68 

56 

56 

51) 

18 

60 
60 

50 

(50 
60 

60 

(50 
60 

Oregon  
Pennsylvania  — 
Rhode  Island  .... 
Tennessee  

45 

50 

o.i 

60 

42 

48 

50 

70 

56 
56 
56 

56 

52 
56 

50 

60 
56 
60 
60 

50 

60 

14 

50 

60 
60 

Texas  

(50 

4'? 

56 

57 

60 

55 

55 

(50 

Vermont  
Virginia  
West  Virginia.  .  . 

46 

-7 

28 
25 

°8 

(50 

62 
60 
60 
60 

48 
52 
52 

50 

70 

56 

56 
56 
56 

52 

57 

50 

40 
33 
28 

60 
(50 
(50 
60 

56 

(50 

60 

14 

55 
•'p 

(50 
60 
60 

Washington  ..... 

45 

.. 

42 

56 

50 

(50 

60 

•-• 

50 

60 

*  70  pounds  from  Nov.  1  to  May  1 ;  6S  pounds  May  1  to  Nov.  1. 


COMPUTATION   TABLES.  141 


30.  Miscellaneous  Legal  Weights  per  Bushel. 

BEETS,  MANGELS,  and  RUTA  BAGAS  :  60  pounds  in  Maine, 
Vermont,  Connecticut ;  56  in  Wisconsin  ;  50  in  Missouri.  CAR- 
ROTS :  50  pounds  in  Maine,  Vermont,  Massachusetts,  Wisconsin, 
Missouri,  Montana  ;  55  in  Connecticut.  PARSNIPS  :  45  pounds 
in  Connecticut ;  44  in  Wisconsin,  Missouri ;  50  in  Montana ; 
55  in  Indiana.  BOTTOM  ONION  SETS,  36  pounds  in  Kentucky. 
RICE  CORN,  56  pounds  in  Kansas.  BERRIES,  32  pounds  in 
Rhode  Island.  CHERRIES,  GRAPES,  CURRANTS,  GOOSEBERRIES, 
40  pounds  in  Iowa.  BLACKBERRIES,  STRAWBERRIES,  RASP- 
BERRIES, 32  pounds  in  Iowa.  PEACHES,  QUINCES,  48  pounds 
in  Iowa.  DRIED  PEACHES  :  33  pounds  in  Massachusetts ; 
39  in  Kentucky.  DRIED  PLUMS,  28  pounds  in  Michigan. 
CRANBERRIES,  40  pounds  in  Michigan.  "  WILD  PEACHES,"  33 
pounds  in  Ohio.  In  the  DAKOTA  s,  a  bushel  of  wheat  is  60 
pounds ;  corn,  56  pounds ;  buckwheat,  42  pounds  ;  onions,  52 
pounds  ;  potatoes,  60  pounds  ;  turnips,  60  pounds  ;  sweet  pota- 
toes, 46  pounds.  In  RHODE  ISLAND,  WISCONSIN,  WASHINGTON, 
and  MONTANA,  a  bushel  of  ROOT  CROPS  is  50  pounds. 

31.    Miscellaneous  Legal  Sizes. 

The  heap  bushel  contains  2564  cubic  inches  in  Connecticut 
and  Kansas ;  2150.42  inches  in  New  Jersey,  Pennsylvania, 
Nebraska,  Tennessee,  Missouri,  Washington. 

The  bushel  measure  must  be  19  \  inches  in  outside  diameter, 
the  half -bushel  15^  inches,  the  peck  12  \  inches,  in  New  York 
and  California. 

The  bushel  measure  must  be  18^  inches  in  inside  diameter, 
the  half -bushel  13|  inches,  the  peck  10  f  inches,  and  the  half- 
peck  9  inches,  in  New  Hampshire  and  Minnesota. 

Produce  sold  by  dry  measure  must  be  heaped  as  full  as  the 
measure  will  hold  in  Ohio,  Illinois,  Michigan,  Wisconsin,  Min- 
nesota, California,  Oregon,  and  Washington. 

Heap  measures  must  be  cylindrical,  with  a  plane  bottom,  in 
New  York  and  California. 


142          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

The  half -bushel  is  13  f§  inches  in  interior  diameter  and 
7  fa  inches  deep  in  Ohio.  It  contains  1075£  cubic  inches  in 
Indiana. 

In  New  Jersey  the  cranberry  box,  to  hold  a  bushel,  must  be 
12  x  8 1  x  22  inches  in  the  clear. 

In  Wisconsin,  cranberry  packages  must  conform  to  the  fol- 
lowing sizes :  "  The  legal  and  standard  cranberry  barrel  in 
this  State  shall  be  twenty-three  and  three-quarters  inches  high, 
sixteen  and  one-fourth  inches  in  diameter  at  the  head,  and 
eighteen  inches  in  diameter  at  the  bilge,  inside  measure. 
Every  manufacturer  of  barrels  for  cranberries  shall  stamp  or 
brand  his  name  with  the  letters  W.  S.  on  such  barrels,  to  indi- 
cate that  they  are  the  Wisconsin  Standard  in  size.  All  sales  of 
cranberries  in  packages  less  than  a  barrel  should  be  by  the 
bushel  or  quart,  struck  or  level  dry  measure.  A  standard 
bushel  crate  for  cranberries  shall  be  twenty-two  inches  long, 
twelve  and  one-fourth  inches  wide  by  seven  and  one-half  inches 
deep,  inside  measure." 

In  New  York  a  barrel  of  apples,  quinces,  pears,  or  potatoes 
shall  contain  100  quarts  of  grain  or  dry  measure,  except  that 
potatoes,  when  sold  by  weight,  shall  be  172  pounds  to  the  barrel. 

In  New  York  the  measure  for  fruit  shall  be  the  half-bushel, 
which  shall  be  made  cylindrical,  the  diameter  outside  to  out- 
side 15 1  inches.  The  standard  half-bushel  has  1075T2^  cubic 
inches. 

In  Michigan  the  quantity  known  as  a  box  or  a  basket  of 
peaches  shall  contain  716|  cubic  inches  or  i  of  a  bushel,  strict 
measure. 

Michigan  Standard  Measure.  —  The  half-bushel  or  parts 
thereof  shall  be  the  standard  measure  for  fruits  customarily 
sold  by  heaped  measure  ;  and  in  measuring  said  commodities, 
the  half-bushel  or  other  small  measure  shall  be  heaped  as  high 
as  may  be,  without  special  effort  or  design. 

Michigan  Standard  Barrel. — A  barrel  of  fruit,  roots,  or 
vegetables  is  the  quantity  contained  in  a  barrel  made  from 
staves  27  inches  in  length,  and  each  head  16|  inches  in  diam- 
eter, or  ordinary  flour-barrel  size. 


COMPUTATION   TABLES.  143 

In  Maine  a  barrel  of  potatoes  is  165  pounds. 

In  Tennessee  a  barrel  of  apples  contains  2£  bushels.  A 
liquid  barrel  contains  42  gallons. 

In  Wisconsin  a  barrel  of  apples  shall  contain  100  quarts  dry 
measure. 

The  avoirdupois  pound  bears  to  the  troy  pound  the  relation 
of  7000  to  5760  in  New  York,  New  Jersey,  Pennsylvania, 
Ohio,  Iowa,  Nebraska,  Tennessee,  and  California. 

In  Ohio  and  Rhode  Island,  standard  dry  measure  shall  be 
used  for  berries  and  other  small  fruits. 

The  New  Jersey  standard  legal  peach  basket  is  16  quarts. 
Height,  I2£  inches.  Width  across  top,  13|  inches.  Inside 
measurement,  1075.1  cubic  inches.  Shall  be  marked  "Stan- 
dard, N.  J.,"  in  Roman  letters  upon  the  staves  just  below  the 
rim,  either  burned  in  or  painted  in  permanent  red  paint,  and 
each  letter  shall  be  not  less  than  1  inch  in  length  and  ^  inch  in 
width.  (Laws  of  1892.) 

V.    SOCIETY  AND  CUSTOMARY  STANDARDS. 
32.    Fruit  Packages  in  Florida  and  Georgia. 

The  standard  orange  box  adopted  by  the  Florida  Fruit  Ex- 
change measures  12xl2x26f  inches,  with  partition  in  the 
middle.  The  Exchange  issues  the  following  instructions  : 

We  recommend  the  following  classifications  for  oranges: 
Fancy,  Choice  Bright,  Bright  Russet,  Choice  Russet,  Russet. 

Oranges  classed  as  Fancy  should  be  extra-bright,  with  very 
smooth,  thin  skin.  Rough,  thick-skinned  fruit,  being  ever  so 
bright,  should  never  be  classed  as  Fancy. 

Oranges  classed  as  Choice  Bright  should  be  strictly  bright 
and  fairly  smooth  skin,  and  of  desirable  size. 

Oranges  classed  as  Bright  should  be  bright,  and  free  from  rust. 

Oranges  classed  as  Bright  Russet  should  be  at  least  two-thirds 
bright,  with  smooth  skin  and  of  desirable  size. 

Oranges  classed  as  Choice  Russet  should  be  of  quite  smooth 
skin  and  of  desirable  size. 


144          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

Oranges  of  a  common  dark  variety  should  be  classed  as 
Russet. 

Never  pack  bright  and  rusty  oranges  in  the  same  box.  Never 
pack  large  and  small  oranges  in  the  same  box. 

One  of  the  most  important  features  in  the  packing  of  oranges 
is  the  uniform  neatness  of  the  packages.  Buyers  will  pay  more 
for  fruit  that  is  neatly  and  properly  packed  than  they  will  pay 
for  such  as  is  carelessly  put  up.  A  box  of  oranges  neatly  packed, 
strapped,  and  marked,  naturally  attracts  the  attention  of  buyers. 

After  your  fruit  has  been  carefully  packed  in  accordance  with 
above  instructions,  please  mark  the  boxes  as  follows : 

Place  the  stencil  of  the  Florida  Fruit  Exchange  on  one  end  of 
the  box  in  centre  of  head. 

In  the  upper  left-hand  corner  of  the  box-head  stencil  the 
quality  of  orange  the  box  contains  —  Fancy,  Choice  Bright, 
Bright,  Bright  Russet,  Choice  Russet,  Russet,  Mandarin, 
Tangerine,  or  Navel,  as  the  case  may  be. 

In  the  upper  middle  of  the  box-head  stencil  the  number  of 
oranges  the  box  contains  —  "  128,"  "  176,"  "200,"  as  the  case 
may  be. 

In  the  upper  right-hand  corner  stencil  the  letters  according  to 
the  following  schedule  : 

All  sizes  under  128,  mark  A. 
Sizes  128  to  138,  mark  B. 
Sizes  146  to  160,  mark  C. 
Sizes  176  to  200,  mark  D. 
All  sizes  over  200,  mark  E. 

The  Georgia  Horticultural  Society  adopts  the  one-third  bushel 
oblong  crate  for  peaches  and  similar  fruits.  The  dimensions  of 
this  crate  are  about  8  x  12  £  x  22  inches. 

33.  California.    Sizes  in  Common  Use  for  Local  Markets. 
(Wickson.} 

APPLE  AND  PEAR.  — Top,  bottom,  and  sides  of  |-inch  and  ends 
of  |-mch  stuff.  The  length  is  22  inches  ;  ends  10  by  12  inches. 
This  is  called  a  50-pound  box,  but  it  contains  less  weight. 


COMPUTATION   TABLES.  145 

CHERRY.  — 15}  inches  in  length ;  ends  8}  by  3£. 

FIG.  —  The  two-layer  fig  box  is  20  inches  long ;  ends  2  by 
3 \  inches,  and  holds  about  20  pounds.  The  single  layer  is  the 
same  length  and  width,  but  2  inches  deep,  and  holds  about  12 
pounds. 

GRAPES.  — The  same  as  that  used  for  plums  in  distant  ship- 
ment, except  that  the  depth  is  usually  5  inches,  and  the  con- 
tents about  25  pounds  of  fruit.  Grapes  are  also  shipped  in 
4-pound  splint  baskets,  of  which  4  go  in  a  half  crate,  or  8  in  a 
whole  crate. 

MELOXS.  —  Cantaloupe  crates  38  inches  long,  1(5  inches  wide, 
and  15  inches  deep.  Watermelons  come  in  bulk  in  cars,  or  in 
large  cases  of  all  descriptions. 

ORANGES.  —  Flat  boxes  22  inches  long,  ends  7|  by  17}  inches. 
It  is  divided  into  two  parts  by  a  central  partition.  The  pre- 
vailing orange  box  at  present  is  about  26}  inches  long,  ends 
11^  inches  square,  with  a  central  partition. 

SMALL  FRUITS.  —  Chests  or  crates  which  contain  10, 15,  or  20 
drawers.  The  drawers  are  15}  inches  long,  ends  8£  by  If 
inches.  The  sizes  have  been  constantly  decreasing.  The  old 
drawers  held  5  pounds  of  strawberries ;  the  present  weight  is 
about  4  pounds. 

PACKAGES  FOR  DRIED  FRUITS. — 25-pound  box:  Inside 
measurements  —  length,  13|  inches;  width,  9£  inches;  depth, 
5  J  inches.  Outside  measurements  —  length,  15 \  inches  ;  width, 
10^  inches  ;  depth,  6}  inches ;  top,  bottom,  and  sides,  f  of  an 
inch  thick  ;  ends,  \  of  an  inch  thick. 

A  More  Flat  Package:  Inside  measurements  —  length,  16 
inches ;  width,  9  inches ;  depth,  5  inches.  Outside  measure- 
ments—  length,  Yi\  inches;  width,  9|  inches;  depth,  5| 
inches  ;  top,  bottom,  and  sides,  f  of  an  inch  thick ;  ends,  £  of 
an  inch  thick. 

Fifty-Pound  Box  :  Inside  measurements — length,  15 \  inches ; 
width,  9  inches  ;  depth,  9  inches.  Outside  measurements  — 
length,  Yl\  inches;  width,  10  inches ;  depth,  10  inches ;  top, 
bottom,  and  sides,  }  inch  thick  ;  ends,  1  inch  thick. 

SACKS  FOR  DRIED  FRUIT.  — White  cotton  sacks,  made  of  what 


146          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

is  called  heavy  export  goods,  are  used  for  shipment  of  dried  fruits. 
They  are  20  by  36  inches,  and  hold  about  80  pounds  of  fruit. 

RAISINS.  — 20-pound  raisin  box,  19  £  inches  long,  ends  9  by  4f 
inches.  Half  box,  same  length  and  width,  depth,  2|  inches. 
Quarter  box,  same  length  and  width ;  depth,  l^  inches.  Eighth 
box,  15 1  inches  long,  ends  6  by  1^  inches. 

34.  California  Packages  for  Eastern  Shipment  as  adopted  by 
the  Fruit  Union  of  that  State. 

The  ends  of  all  boxes  should  be  made  of  f-inch  stuff,  and  all 
cleats  of  f-inch  stuff.  The  sides,  tops,  and  bottoms  of  cherry 
boxes  should  be  |-inch  stuff :  the  sides  made  of  two  strips,  each 
of  ^-inch  stuff  and  |  of  an  inch  in  width.  Peach,  pear,  and 
plum  boxes  should  be  made  of  T\-inch  stuff.  All  the  lumber 
used  should  be  dressed  as  smooth  as  possible. 

Cherry  boxes,  capacity  10  pounds.  Outside  measurements  — 
18  inches  in  length,  10  J  inches  in  width,  3  inches  in  depth. 
Inside  measurements  —  length,  16^  inches;  width,  lOf  inches; 
depth,  2JL  inches. 

Plum  boxes,  capacity  20  pounds.  Outside  measurements  — 
19f  inches  in  length,  12 1-  inches  in  width,  4|  inches  in  depth. 
Inside  measurements  —  length,  8£  inches;  width,  llf  inches; 
depth,  4  inches. 

There  are  4  sizes  of  peach  and  apricot  boxes  : 

First,  capacity  22  pounds.  Outside  measurements  —  19f 
inches  in  length,  12£  inches  in  width,  4|  inches  in  depth.  Inside 
measurements  —  length,  18|  inches  ;  width,  llf  inches  ;  depth, 
4 1  inches. 

Second,  capacity  25  pounds.  Outside  measurements  — 19| 
inches  in  length,  12 1-  inches  in  width,  5%  inches  in  depth.  Inside 
measurements  —  length,  18^  inches ;  width,  llf  inches;  depth, 
4£  inches. 

Third,  capacity  27  pounds.  Outside  measurements  —  19f 
inches  in  length,  12 £  inches  in  width,  5f  inches  in  depth.  Inside 
measurements  —  length,  18£  inches  ;  width,  llf  inches  ;  depth, 
5 1  inches. 


COMPUTATION  TABLES.  147 

Fourth,  capacity  30  pounds.  Outside  measurements  — 19| 
inches  in  length,  12£  inches  in  width,  6^  inches  in  depth.  Inside 
measurements  —  length,  18^  inches;  width,  llf  inches  ;  depth, 
5 1  inches. 

Pear  boxes,  capacity  40  pounds.  Outside  measurements  — 
19|  inches  in  length,  12|  inches  in  width,  8£  inches  in  depth. 
Inside  measurements  —  length,  18£  inches;  width,  llf  inches ; 
depth,  8 1  inches. 

35.  California  Prunes. 

Prunes  are  graded  by  running  them  over  screens  of  various 
degrees  of  coarseness.  The  meshes  should  be  oblong,  2  inches 
or  more  in  length  for  all  the  sizes,  the  widths  varying  as  stated 
in  the  table  below.  The  California  French  prunes  are  usually 
sorted  in  six  sizes,  by  using  the  following  methods  : 

Width  of  mesh  for  Width  of  mesh  for 

Grade.  green  prunes.  dried  prunes. 

Extras,  40  to    50  to  pound  ...  If  inches  .     .     .  1£  inches. 

No.  1,    50  to    60        "  .     .     .  1J      "       ...  1£      " 

No.  2,    60  to    70        «  .     .     .  4     «       ...  1 

No.  3,    70  to    80        "  ...  1        "       .     .     .     |      " 

No.  4,    80  to    90        "  ...     |      "...     f      " 

No.  5,    90  to  100        "  .     .     .     f      "       .     .     .     f      " 

36.  Covent  Garden  (London)  Measures. 

SEA-KALE  PUNNETS.  —  8  inches  diameter  at  the  top,  1\  inches 
at  the  bottom,  and  2  inches  deep. 

RADISH  PUNNETS.  —  8  inches  in  diameter  and  1  inch  deep,  if 
to  hold  6  hands  ;  or  9  inches  by  1  inch,  if  for  12  hands. 

MUSHROOM.  —  7  niches  by  1  inch. 

SALAD  PUNNETS.  —  5  inches  by  1  inch. 

SIEVE.  —  Contains  7  imperial  gallons.  Diameter,  15  inches  ; 
depth,  8  inches.  A  sieve  of  peas  is  equal  to  1  bushel.  A  sieve 
of  currants,  12  quarts. 

HALF-SIEVE.  — Contains  3£  imperial  gallons.  It  averages  12| 
inches  in  diameter  and  6  inches  in  depth. 


148          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

BUSHEL  SIEVE  — 10^  imperial  gallons.  Diameter  at  top,  llf 
inches  ;  at  bottom,  17  inches  ;  depth,  11^  inches, 

BUSHEL  BASKET  ought,  when  heaped,  to  contain  an  imperial 
bushel.  Diameter  at  bottom,  10  inches  ;  at  top,  14£  inches ; 
depth,  17  inches.  Walnuts,  nuts,  apples,  and  potatoes  are  sold 
by  this  measure.  A  bushel  of  the  last  named,  cleansed,  weighs 
56  pounds,  but  4  pounds  additional  are  allowed  if  they  are  not 
washed. 

A  JUNK  contains  f  of  a  bushel. 

POTTLE.  — A  long  tapering  basket  that  holds  rather  over  a 
pint  and  a  half.  A  pottle  of  strawberries  should  hold  \  a  gallon, 
but  never  holds  more  than  1  quart..  A  pottle  of  mushrooms 
should  weigh  1  pound. 

HAND  applies  to  a  bunch  of  radishes,  which  contains  12  to  30 
or  more,  according  to  the  season. 

BUNDLE  contains  from  6  to  12  or  20  heads  of  broccoli,  celery, 
etc. ;  sea-kale,  12  to  18  heads  ;  rhubarb,  20  to  30  stems,  according 
to  size  ;  asparagus  from  100  to  150. 

GRAPES  are  put  up  in  2-pound  and  4-pound  punnets  ;  new 
potatoes  by  the  London  growers  in  2-pound  punnets.  Apples 
and  pears  are  put  up  in  bushel  sieves  or  half-sieves.  A  hundred- 
weight of  Kentish  filberts  is  104  pounds.  Weights  are  always 
16  ounces  to  the  pound. 

BUNCH.  — Radishes,  12  to  24  ;  carrots,  12  and  upwards  ;  tur- 
nips, 12  and  upwards  ;  leeks,  6  and  upwards. 

A  ROLL  of  celery  contains  6,  8,  to  12  heads  or  roots. 

A  SCORE  of  lettuce  or  endive  is  22. 

A  TALLY  is  5  dozen. 

37.  What  constitutes  Wholesale  Quantities. 

The  wholesale  fruit-dealers  of  Washington,  D.C.,  have 
adopted  the  following  rules  to  govern  the  least  quantities  of 
fruits  to  be  sold  at  wholesale  rates  : 

BANANAS.  —  Not  less  than  1  bunch. 

APPLES.  — Not  less  than  1  barrel  or  box  as  received ;  no 
packages  to  be  broken. 

PINEAPPLES.  — Not  less  than  26. 


COMPUTATION   TABLES.  149 

ORANGES.  —  Not  less  than  1  box  ;  no  packages  to  be  broken. 

LEMONS.  — Not  less  than  1  box  ;  no  packages  to  be  broken. 

GRAPES  OF  ALL  KINDS.  — Not  less  than  5  baskets. 

MALAGA  GRAPES.  — By  the  keg  only. 

PEACHES.  —  Not  less  than  1  box  or  1  bushel  crate,  or  not 
less  than  5  baskets ;  no  packages  to  be  broken.  If  in  half- 
bushel  lots,  not  less  than  2. 

PEARS.  —  One  box  or  barrel ;  if  in  baskets,  not  less  than  5. 

WATERMELONS.  — Not  less  than  25. 

MUSKMELONS.  — Not  less  than  25. 

STRAWBERRIES  AND  ALL  OTHER  BERRIES.  —  Not  less  than  a 
32-quart  crate,  unless  small  quantity  received.  A  60-quart  crate 
may  be  halved.  An  exception  made  with  raspberries  :  not  less 
than  15  quarts.  In  February  and  March,  strawberries,  not  less 
than  15  quarts. 

VI.    MISCELLANEOUS  WEIGHTS  AND  ESTIMATES. 
38.  Weights  of  Various  Varieties  of  Apples  per  Bushel. 

The  following  varieties,  just  from  the  trees  in  October,  gave 
the  following  weights  for  a  heaped  bushel  (Michigan)  : 


Pounds. 

Baldwin 50 

Belmont 50 

Ben  Davis    .     .     .     .     .     .47 

Bunker  Hill 49 

Cabashae 57 

Esopus  Spitzenburgh     .     .  44 

Rambo 50 

Rhode  Island  Greening      .  52 
Roxbury  Russet   ....  50 

Rubicon 46 

Stark.  .  56 


Pounds. 

Fallawater 48 

Golden  Russet     ....  53 

Lawver 47 

Nickajack 51 

Northern  Spy 46 

Pennock 47 

Swaar 51 

Sweet  Bough 39 

Talman  Sweet  ....  48 
Tompkins  King  ....  44 
Yellow  Bellefleur  .  46 


39.  Dried  Fruit  and  Cider. 

A  bushel  of  average  apples  gives  from  6  to  7£  pounds  of  evap- 
orated product.    Seven  pounds  to  the  bushel  is  a  good  average. 


150         HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

PRODUCT  OP  DRIED  RASPBERRIES  (W.  J.  Green}: 


Ohio  ...  9  Ibs.  to  the  bu. 
Gregg     .     .  8J     " 
Hilborn  .    .  8J     "        " 


Ada    ...  8}  Ibs.  to  the  bu. 
Tyler.    .    .  8£      "        " 
Shaffer   .    .  8        "        " 


In  general,  3|  quarts  (about  4  pounds)  of  fresh  black-cap  rasp- 
berries are  required  for  a  pound  of  marketable  dried  berries. 

A  pound  of  dried  peaches  may  be  made  from  4  or  5  pounds  of 
fresh  fruit,  if  the  variety  has  a  dry  flesh ;  but  6  or  7  pounds 
is  often  required. 

In  California,  20  pounds  of  grapes  produce  6  or  7  pounds  of 
raisins. 

From  7  to  12  bushels  of  apples  are  required  for  a  barrel  of 
cider. 

40.  Various  Estimates. 

Raspberries  contain  from  1£  to  3  pounds  of  seeds  to  the 
bushel. 

A  pint  of  garden  blackberries  weighs  about  one  pound. 

Good  clusters  of  American  grapes  weigh  on  an  average  from 
one-half  to  three-fourths  pound,  while  extra-good  clusters  will 
reach  a  pound  and  a  half.  Clusters  have  been  reported  which 
weighed  two  pounds. 

A  bushel  of  sweet-corn  ears,  "in  the  milk,"  with  the  husks 
which  come  from  it,  weighs  from  50  to  70  pounds. 

There  are  about  5000  honey-bees  in  a  pound. 

Watermelons  are  usually  sorted  into  three  grades.  Of  the 
largest  size,  about  6  melons  are  placed  in  a  barrel.  Of  medium 
size,  about  8  (4  melons  in  each  of  two  layers),  and  of  the 
smallest  size,  10  to  12.  A  truck-load  of  melons  comprises 
about  200  fair-sized  fruits.  A  car-load  numbers  from  1000  to 
1500. 

Cocoanuts  are  packed  for  shipment  in  bags  which  hold  100. 

"  Ekimis  "  branded  upon  boxes  of  Smyrna  figs  means  A.  No.  1, 
or  Superior  Selected.  "Eleme"  means  Selected,  the  second 
grade. 

To  find  the  bushels  of  apples,  potatoes,  shelled  corn,  etc., 


COMPUTATION   TABLES.  151 

in  bins,  divide  the  cubic  contents  in  inches  by  2747.7  (the 
cubic  inches  in  a  heaped  bushel).  If  the  corn  is  in  the  ear, 
deduct  one-third  from  the  result. 

To  find  the  tons  of  hay  in  a  mow  or  stack,  divide  the  cubic 
contents  by  about  510,  if  the  hay  is  not  well  settled ;  or  by 
about  460,  if  the  hay  is  well  packed. 

VII.   CAPACITIES  OF  PIPES  AND  TANKS. 
41.  Quantity  of  Water  held  by  Pipes  of  Various  Sizes. 

Diameter  of  Contents  of  100  Feet 

Bore.  in  Length. 

J  inches 84  gallons. 

1    «« 3.39  " 

\\  " 7.64  " 

2"  " 13.58  " 

2|  " 21.22  " 

3  " 30.56  " 

4  " 54.33  " 

5  » 84.90  " 

6  " 122.26  " 

42.  Number  of  Gallons  in  Circular  Tanks  and  Wells. 

To  find  the  contents  in  gallons  of  circular  tanks,  etc.,  square 
the  diameter  in  feet,  multiply  by  the  depth,  and  then  multiply 
by  5.875. 

GALLONS  WHEN  THE  DEPTH   IS 

Diam-  / ' N 

eter.   3ft.   4ft.   5ft.   6ft.   7ft.   8ft.   9ft.   10ft.   lift.   12ft. 

4  ft.  282.00  376.00  470.00  564.00  658.00  752.00  846.00  940.00  1034.00  1128.00 

5  "  440.63  587.50  734.38  881.25  1028.13  1175.00  1321.89  1468.76  1615.63  1762.50 

6  "  634.50  846.90  1057.50  1269.00  1480.50  1692.00  1903.50  2115.00  2326.50  2538.00 

7  "  863.63  1151.50  1439.38  1727.25  2015.13  2303.00  2590.89  2878.76  3166.63  3454.50 

8  "  1128.00  1504.00  1880.00  2256.00  2632.00  3008.00  3384.00  3760.00  4136.00  4512.00 

9  "  1427.63  1903.50  2379.38  2855.26  3331.13  3806.00  4282.89  4758.76  5234.63  5710.52 

10  "  1762.52  2350.00  2937.52  3525.00  4112.52  4700.00  5287.56  5875.04  6461.52  7050.00 

11  "  2132.63  2843.50  3554.38  4265.26  4976.12  5687.00  6397.89  7108.76  7819.43  8530.52 

12  "  2538.00  3384.00  4230.00  5076.00  5922.00  6768.00  7614.00  8460.00  9306.00  10152.00 


152 


HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 


43.  Number  of  Gallons  in  Square-Built  Tanks. 

To  find  the  number  of  gallons  in  any  square  or  oblong  vessel 
multiply  the  number  of  cubic  feet  contained  in  it  by  7.4805. 


Size  of  Tank. 

3ft. 
deep. 

4ft. 
deep. 

5ft. 
deep. 

6  by 

3 

feet  

.     .    403.9 

538.5 

673.2 

6  " 

4 

u 

.     .     538.5 

718.0 

897.6 

6  " 

6 

u 

.     .     673.2 

897.6 

1122.0 

6  " 

6 

u 

.     .     807.8 

1077.1 

1346.4 

7  " 

4 

14 

.     .     628.3 

837.7 

1047.2 

7  " 

5 

II 

.     .     785.4 

1047.2 

1309.0 

7  " 

6 

U 

.     .     942.4 

1256.6 

1570.8 

7  " 

7 

(1 

.     .  1099.5 

1466.0 

1832.6 

8  " 

4 

l( 

.     .     717.0 

957.4 

1196.8 

8  " 

5 

u 

.     .     897.6 

1196.8 

1496.0 

8  " 

0 

u 

.     .  1077.1 

1436.1 

1683.0 

8  " 

7 

u 

.     .  1256.6 

1675.5 

2094.4 

8  " 

8 

it 

.     .  1436.1 

1914.8 

2393.6 

9  " 

5 

a 

.     .  1009.8 

1346.4 

1683.0 

9  « 

0 

u 

.     .  1211.7 

1615.6 

2019.6 

9  " 

7 

u 

.     .  1413.7 

1884.9 

2356.2 

9  " 

» 

u 

.     .  1615.6 

2154.2 

2692.8 

9  " 

9 

II 

.     .  1817.6 

2423.5 

3029.4 

10  " 

5 

If 

.     .  1122.0 

1496.0 

1870.0 

10  " 

0 

u 

.     .  1346.4 

1795.2 

2244.0 

10  " 

7 

II 

.     .  1570.8 

2094.4 

2618.0 

10  " 

8 

M 

.     .  1795.2 

2393.6 

2992.0 

10  " 

9 

u 

.     .  2019.6 

2692.8 

3366.0 

10  " 

10 

u 

.     .  2244.0 

2992.0 

3740.0 

11  " 

6 

II 

.     .  1481.0 

1974.7 

2468.4 

11  " 

7 

11 

.     .  1727.8 

2303.8 

2879.8 

11  « 

8 

M 

.     .  1974.7 

2632.9 

3291.2 

11  " 

9 

u 

.     .  2221.5 

2962.0 

3702.6 

11  " 

10 

II 

.     .  2468.4 

2521.2 

4114.0 

11  " 

11 

II 

.     .  2715.2 

3620.3 

4525.4 

12  " 

6 

u 

.     .  1660.5 

2164.2 

2692.8 

COMPUTATION  TABLES.  153 


Size 

12  by 
12  " 
12  " 
12  " 
12  " 
12  " 

of  Tank. 
7  feet            .    . 

3ft. 
deep. 

.     .     .   1884.9 

4ft. 
deep. 

2513.2 

2872.3 
3231.3 
3590.4 
3949.4 
4308*4 

5ft. 
deep. 

2141.6 
3590.4 
4039.2 
4488.0 
4936.8 
5385.6 

8    " 

.  2154.2 

9    "          .     .     . 

....  2423.5 

10    "               .     . 

....  2692.8 

11    "               .  A 

.     .     .        2962.0 

12    " 

.  3231.3 

VIII.    THERMOMETER   SCALES. 

Fahrenheit.  —  The  freezing-point  is  taken  as  the  32d  degree 
of  the  scale,  and  180  degrees  are  made  between  that  and  the 
boiling-point,  which  therefore  becomes  212°. 

Centigrade  or  Celsius. — The  freezing-point  of  water  is 
taken  as  zero,  and  boiling-point  as  100°. 

Reaumur. — The  freezing-point  of  water  is  taken  as  zero, 
the  boiling-point  as  80°. 

A  degree  Centigrade  is  therefore  greater  than  a  degree  of 
Fahrenheit  as  nine  is  greater  than  five  ;  and  a  degree  of  Reau- 
mur is  greater,  as  nine  is  greater  than  four. 

To  reduce  Fahrenheit  degrees  to  Centigrade,  subtract  32  from 
the  given  degree  of  Fahrenheit  and  multiply  the  remainder  by 
5  and  divide  it  by  9  :  (F.°  -  32)  f. 

To  reduce  Centigrade  to  Fahrenheit,  multiply  the  given 
degree  of  Centigrade  by  9  and  divide  the  product  by  5,  then  to 
the  quotient  add  32  :  (|C.°  +  32). 

To  reduce  Fahrenheit  to  Reaumur,  subtract  32  from  the 
given  degree  of  Fahrenheit  and  multiply  the  remainder  by  4 
and  divide  by  9  :  (F.°  -  32)  f. 

To  reduce  Reaumur  to  Fahrenheit,  multiply  the  given  degree 
of  Reaumur  by  9  and  divide  by  4,  then  add  32  :  (|R.°  +  32). 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

GREENHOUSE  AND   WINDOW-GARDEN 
WORK  AND   ESTIMATES. 

I.  THE  HEATING  OF  GREENHOUSES. 
(By  Professor  R.  0.  Carpenter.) 

i .  Methods  of  proportioning  Radiating  Surface  for  heating 
of  Greenhouses. 

Radiating  surface,  whether  from  steam  or  hot-water  pipes,  is 
estimated  in  square  feet  of  exterior  surface.  All  projections, 
ornaments,  etc.,  on  the  exterior  of  pipes  or  radiators  are 
counted  as  efficient  surface.  Formerly,  cast-iron  pipe  of  about 
4  inches  in  diameter  was  used  almost  altogether  for  greenhouse 
work  ;  it  is  still  used  to  some  extent  for  hot-water  heating,  but 
the  great  majority  of  houses  are  now  piped  with  wrought  iron, 
which  is  made  of  standard  size  and  thickness,  and  is  a  regular 
article  of  trade. 

The  heating  surface  in  a  boiler  or  hot  water  heater  is  that 
portion  of  the  boiler,  or  heater,  which  is  exposed  to  the  direct 
heat  of  the  fire  or  of  the  heated  gases. 

Grate  surface  is  the  number  of  square  feet  of  grate  in  the 
boiler  or  heater. 

In  estimating  the  heat  required  for  greenhouses,  the  area 
expressed  in  square  feet  of  glass  in  the  roof  and  walls  is  taken 
as  the  basis  from  which  computations  are  made.  Certain  rules 
of  practice  have  been  adopted  and  appear  to  give  fairly  good 
results  in  proportioning  radiating  surface,  grate  surface,  and 
heating  surface.  The  ratio  of  heating  surface  to  grate  surface 
will  depend  upon  the  kind  of  coal  to  be  burned  and  the  economy 
desired.  The  more  heating  surface  provided  per  unit  of  grate 

154 


GREENHOUSE  AND  WINDOW-GARDEN  WORK. 


155 


surface,  the  higher  the  economy,  but  the  greater  the  first  cost 
of  the  heater.  The  usual  practice  is  to  employ  40  square  feet  of 
heating  surface  to  1  of  grate  surface  for  hard  coal,  and  80  feet 
of  heating  surface  to  1  of  grate  surface  for  soft  coal.*  One 
foot  of  heating  surface  in  a  steam  boiler  or  in  a  hot-water  heater 
will  supply  heat  for  about  8  square  feet  of  radiating  surface, 
under  mean  conditions.  It  will  usually  give  a  heater  ample  in 
size  for  the  work  required,  but  if  more  radiating  surface  is  added 
it  may  in  some  instances  prove  to  be  small.  The  table  following 
gives  more  exact  proportions. 
To  maintain  the  temperature  of  the  greenhouse  70  degrees 

(I.)  TABLE  SHOWING  RELATION  OF  GLASS  SURFACE,  RADIATING 
SURFACE,  AND  HEATING  SURFACE.! 


HOT-WATER 
HEATING. 

STEAM  HEATING. 

Temperature  of  radiating  suface. 

160° 

180° 

200° 

(5  Ibs.      (10  Ibs. 
Pressure  )  Pressure  ) 

220°        240° 

Square  feet  of  glass  for  1 
square  foot  radiating  surface. 

Temp.  100°  F.  above  surrounding  air 

2.3 
2.55 

2.7 
3.0 

3.2 
3.55 

3.5         4.2 
3.9        4.66 

80° 

2.75 

3.38 

4.0 

4.37       5.25 

«        70°           "             "             " 

3.2 

4.0 

4.5 

5.0        6.0 

60° 

3.8 

4.5 

5.25 

5.85       7.0 

50° 

4.5 

5.4 

6.4 

7.0         8.4 

40° 

5.7 

6.7 

8.0 

8.7       10.5 

30° 

7.7 

9.0 

10.6 

11.6       14.0 

Heat  units  given  off  1  square  foot 
radiating  surface    

230 
12.2 

270 
10.5 

320 

8.8 

350       420 
8.0         6.8 

Radiating   surface   supplied  by  1 
square  foot  of  heating  surface  in 
boiler  or  heater  

*  25  per  cent  less  for  small  upright  heaters. 

t  From  Carpenter's  work  on  Warming  by  Hot  Water  and  Steam. 


156          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

above  that  of  the  surrounding  air,  there  should  be  1  square  foot 
of  radiating  surface  for  4  square  feet  of  glass  for  hot- water  heat- 
ing, in  which  the  maximum  temperature  of  the  water  is  main- 
tained at  180  degrees  ;  there  should  be  1  square  foot  of  radiating 
surface  for  5  square  feet  of  glass  for  low-pressure  (under  5 
pounds)  steam  heating.  These  numbers  are  given  somewhat 
greater  by  some  authorities,  and  there  is  no  doubt  that  if  the 
house  is  not  much  exposed,  these  higher  proportions  will  give 
most  satisfactory  results. 

The  following  table  gives  more  exact  values  for  these  quanti- 
ties and  will  be  found  to  accord  with  the  best  practice  in  heating 
of  greenhouses,  either  by  steam  or  hot  water.  It  is  to  be  noted 
that  for  steam  at  5  pounds  pressure  the  temperature  will  be 
about  220°  F.  For  steam  at  10  pounds  pressure,  the  tempera- 
ture will  be  about  240°  F. 

2.  Size  of  Pipes  connecting  Radiating  Surface  and  Boiler 
or  Heater. 

Various  empirical  rules  have  been  given  for  proportioning 
main-supply  and  return  pipes,  which  have  proved  quite  satis- 
factory in  practice.  Mr.  George  A.  Babcock  gives  the  following 
rule,  which  will  be  found  very  satisfactory  for  greenhouse  heat- 
ing, whether  with  low-pressure  steam  or  with  water : 

The  diameter  of  main  pipe  leading  to  the  radiating  surface 
should  be  equal  in  inches  to  0.1  the  square  root  of  radiating 
surface  in  square  feet.  The  main  pipes  should  not  be  less  than 
1£  inches  in  diameter,  return  pipes  for  water  heating  the  same 
size  as  mains,  and,  for  steam  heating,  one  size  less  than  mains, 
but  never  less  than  |  inch  in  diameter.  The  following  table  shows 
the  radiating  surface  supplied  by  various  sizes  of  main  pipe. 
(II.)  SIZE  OF  PIPES.  RADIATING  SURFACE  SUPPLIED. 

l\  in 155  square  feet. 

1£  "  .        .        .        .     S       225      "        " 

2  "    .     .  *        .        .        r      400      "        " 
2|  "    .        .  ^      .        .  620      "        " 

3  ««    .        ....      900      "        " 
3|  "    .        .        .         .        .     1220       «*        " 

4  "    .  1600       "        " 


GREENHOUSE  AND  WINDOW-GARDEN  WORK.      157 
3.  Table  of  Dimensions  of  Standard  Wrought-iron  Pipe. 


II 

i  1 

" 


g    a 

-S    T3 


g  ^ 

|          I?       g 

g      ||    CO 

a     «  »     ft 

R  -11  5 

«   II  g 

§   ii  I 


11 


g  -8-8    H 

S  2S 

H  *  * 

B  .A  * 

OS* 

§  iri 

§  1-8 


3  H 


ffll 


5  5  aZ> 
^§! 

02  .Sf£ 


Si: 


^j  V  V2 

nia 


i 


511 

^11 


o  o  o  ^^  ^^  i^  o^  ^o  "^  co 


i—  i  O  >—  'OOr-iiOCtiOCi 


!>• 

CO  O^  CO  *O  OO  CO  CO  CO 


Ir-OiCOQOCO'^COQOQOCOi-tO 
OOr-i^H(NCO»OCOQOOCOCO 


158          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

The  preceding  table  gives  the  standard  sizes  and  principal 
dimensions  of  wrought-iron  pipe.  From  this  table  the  amount 
required  for  a  given  amount  of  radiating  surface  can  be  readily 
computed.  This  pipe  can  be  purchased  of  any  dealer. 

4.  To  design  heating  Surface. 

1st.  Find  radiating  surface  by  dividing  area  of  glass  in  square 
feet  by  results  in  Table  II.  Hot-water  pipes  can  be  kept  at  a 
temperature  of  180°  F.  if  desired. 

2d.  Find  the  amount  of  pipe  by  dividing  amount  of  radiat- 
ing surface  by  number  of  feet  required  per  square  foot  of 
radiating  surface,  as  given  in  Table  III.  Do  not  use  pipe  less 
than  1£  inches  in  diameter  for  radiating  surface. 

3d.  Find  size  of  main  pipes  by  Table  II.,  using  size  next 
larger  when  radiating  surface  comes  between  numbers  given. 
It  is  usually  better  to  have  several  main  and  return  pipes,  and 
divide  the  radiating  surface  in  sections. 

II.     VARIOUS   ESTIMATES  AND  EECIPES. 
5.  Effects  of  Wind  in  cooling  Glass.    (Leuchars.) 

Velocity  of  Wind  Time  required  to  lower  Temperature 

per  hour.  from  120  to  100  Fahr. 

3.26  miles 2  :  58  minutes. 

6.18  "        2:16 

6.54  "        .1:91  « 

8.86  " 1:66 

10.90  "        1:50 

13.36  "        1:25  " 

17.97  "        1:08  " 

20.45  " 1  : 00  " 

24.54  «        :91  '* 

27.27  " :81  " 

6.  Per  Cent  of  Rays  of  Light  reflected  from  Glass  Roofs  at  Vari- 
ous Angles  of  Divergence  from  the  Perpendicular.  (Bouguer.) 
1° 2.5  per  cent. 

10°  .  2.6        " 


GREENHOUSE  AND  WINDOW-GARDEN  WORK.      159 


20° 2.5  per  cent. 


30° 

40° 
50° 
60° 
70° 
80° 
85° 


2.7 

3.4 

5.7 

11.2 

22.2 

41.2 

54.3 


7.  Angle  of  Roof  for  Different  Heights  and  Widths  of  House. 

(Taft.} 


Height  — 
Feet. 

4  ft. 

5  ft. 

6ft. 

7  ft. 

8  ft. 

9  ft. 

Width  — 
Feet. 

o   / 

0    / 

0    / 

o   / 

0    / 

0   1 

6 

33  21 

39  48 

45 

49  24 

53  8 

56  18 

7 

29  44 

35  32 

40  36 

45 

48  49 

52  07 

8 

26  33 

32 

36  52 

41  11 

45 

48  22 

9 

23  57 

29  3 

33  5 

37  52 

41  38 

45 

10 

21  48 

26  33 

30  58 

35 

38  39 

41  59 

11 

24  26 

28  36 

32  28 

36  2 

39  17 

12 

22  57 

26  33 

30  15 

33  41 

36  52 

13 

21  2 

24  47 

28  18 

31  36 

34  42 

14 

23  12 

26  34 

29  44 

32  44 

Measuring  the  height  directly  under  the  ridge  to  a  point  on  a 
level  with  the  bottom  of  the  sash  or  eaves  of  the  roof,  and 
measuring  the  width  along  this  level  to  the  eave,  the  table 
gives  the  angles  which  the  roof  makes  with  the  horizontal. 


8.   Standard  Flower-Pots. 

AMERICAN. 


The  Society  of  American  Florists  has  adopted  a  standard 
pot,  in  which  all  measurements  are  made  inside,  and  which 


160          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

bears  a  rim  or  shoulder  at  the  top.     The  breadth  and  depth  of 
these  pots  are  the  same,  so  that  they  "  nest"  well. 

ENGLISH.  — CHISWICK  STANDARDS. 

Diam. 

at  top.       Depth. 

Thimbles 2    in.      2    in. 

Thumbs 2£  2^ 

4 
5 
6 
8 
9 
10 
11 
12 
13 
14 

9.  To  prevent  boilers  from  filling  with  sediment  or  scale. 

1.  Exercise  care  to  get  clean  water  and  that  which  contains 
little  lime.  2.  Blow  it  out  often.  It  can  be  blown  out  a  little 
every  day,  and  occasionally  it  should  be  blown  off  entirely. 
3.  Put  slippery-elm  bark  in  the  boiler  tank.  Or,  if  slippery- 
elm  is  not  handy,  use  potato-peelings,  flax-seed,  oak-bark,  spent 
tan,  or  coarse  sawdust.  4.  Put  in,  with  the  feed-water  or 
otherwise,  a  small  quantity  of  good  molasses  (not  a  chemical 
syrup),  say  i  to  1  pint  in  a  week,  depending  upon  the  size  of 
boiler.  This  will  remove  and  prevent  incrustation  without 
damage  to  the  boiler.  These  vegetable  substances  prevent  in  a 
measure,  by  mechanical  means,  the  union  of  the  particles  of 
lime  into  incrustations. 

10.  To  prepare  paper  and  cloth  for  hotbed  sash. 

1.  Use  a  sash  without  bars,  and  stretch  wires  or  strings  across 
it  to  serve  as  a  rest  for  the  paper.  Procure  stout  but  thin  manila 


60's    

3 

54's    

4 

48's    

41 

32's    

6 

24's    

8£ 

16's    

9^ 

12's    

HI 

8's    

12 

6's    

13 

4's    

15 

2's    

18 

GREENHOUSE  AND  WINDOW-GARDEN  WORK.      161 

wrapping-paper,  and  paste  it  firmly  on  the  sash  with  fresh  flour 
paste.  Dry  hi  a  warm  place  and  then  wipe  the  paper  with  a 
damp  sponge  to  cause  it  to  stretch  evenly.  Dry  again  and  then 
apply  boiled  linseed  oil  to  both  sides  of  the  paper,  and  dry 
again  in  a  warm  place. 

2.  Saturate  cloth  or  tough,  thin  manila  paper  with  pure,  raw 
linseed  oil. 

3.  Dissolve  1|  pounds  white  soap  in  1   quart  water  ;    in 
another  quart  dissolve  l.l  ounces  gum  arabic  and  5  ounces  glue. 
Mix  the  two  liquids,  warm,  and  soak  the  paper,  hanging  it 
up  to  dry.     Used  mostly  for  paper. 

4.  3  pints  pale  linseed  oil ;  1  ounce  sugar  of  lead ;  4  ounces 
white  rosin.     Grind  and  mix  the  sugar  of  lead  in  a  little  oil, 
then  add  the  other  materials  and  heat  in  an  iron  kettle.    Apply 
hot  with  a  brush.     Used  for  muslin. 

ii.  Liquid  putty  for  glazing. 

Take  equal  parts,  by  measure,  of  boiled  oil,  putty,  and  white 
lead.  Mix  the  putty  and  oil,  then  add  the  white  lead.  If  the 
mixture  becomes  too  thick,  add  turpentine.  Apply  with  a 
putty-bulb. 

12.  Paint  for  shading  greenhouse  roofs. 

Make  a  paint  of  ordinary  consistency  of  white  lead  and 
naphtha.  It  is  removed  from  the  glass  by  the  use  of  a  scrubbing- 
brush.  Make  it  thin  or  it  is  hard  to  remove. 

Ordinary  lime  whitewash  is  good  for  temporary  use.  If  salt 
is  added,  it  adheres  better.  It  may  be  applied  with  a  spray- 
pump. 

13.   To  keep  flower-pots  clean. 

When  the  pots  are  cleaned,  soak  them  a  few  hours  in 
ammoniacal  carbonate  of  copper  (recipe,  p.  46).  Soak  them 
about  once  a  year.  This  fungicide  kills  the  green  alga  upon 
the  pots,  and  prevents  a  new  growth  from  appearing. 

M 


162          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

III.    GREENHOUSE  PRACTICE. 
14.   Potting  Earth. 

Loam  (decomposed  sod),  leaf -mold,  rotted  farm-yard  manure, 
peat,  and  sand  afford  the  main  requirement  of  the  plants  most 
commonly  cultivated.  Seedlings,  and  young  stock  generally,  are 
best  suited  by  a  light  mixture,  such  as  one  part  each  of  loam, 
leaf-mold,  and  sand  in  equal  parts.  The  older  plants  of  vigor- 
ous growth  like  a  rich,  heavy  compost,  formed  of  equal  parts  of 
loam  and  manure ;  and  a  sandy,  lasting  soil,  made  up  of  two 
parts  each  of  peat  and  loam  to  one  part  of  sand,  is  the  most 
desirable  for  slow-growing  sorts.  A  little  lumpy  charcoal  should 
be  added  to  the  compost  for  plants  that  are  to  remain  any  great 
length  of  time,  say  a  year,  in  the  same  pot.  The  best  condition 
of  soil  for  potting  is  that  intermediate  state  between  wet  and 
dry.  Sphagnum  (moss),  or  fibrous  peat  and  sphagnum  in 
mixture  and  chopped,  should  be  used  for  orchids  and  other 
plants  of  similar  epiphytal  character. 

Cow-dung  is  highly  prized  by  many  gardeners  for  use  in 
potting  soil.  It  is  stored  under  cover  and  allowed  to  remain 
until  dry,  being  turned  several  times  in  the  meantime  to  pulver- 
ize it.  Manure-water  is  made  either  from  this  dried  excrement 
or  from  the  fresh  material.  When  made  from  the  fresh  mate- 
rial, the  manure-water  should  be  made  weaker  than  in  the  other 
case. 

15.   Suggestions  for  Potting  Plants. 

The  pots  should  be  perfectly  dry  and  clean,  and  well  drained. 
However  one-sided  a  plant  may  be,  it  is  advantageous  tfo  have 
the  main  stem  as  near  the  centre  of  the  pot  as  possible,  and  the 
potted  plant  is  usually  in  the  best  position  when  perfectly  erect. 
Soft-wooded  plants  of  rapid  growth,  such  as  coleus,  geraniums, 
fuchsias,  and  begonias,  thrive  most  satisfactorily  when  the  soil 
is  loose  rather  than  hard  about  the  roots.  Ferns  should  have 
it  moderately  firm,  and  hard-wooded  stock,  azaleas,  ericas, 
acacias,  and  the  like,  should  be  potted  firmly.  In  repotting 
plants,  more  especially  those  of  slow  growth,  the  ball  of  soil  and 


GREENHOUSE  AND  WINDOW-GARDEN  WORK.      163 

roots  should  never  be  sunk  to  any  great  extent  below  the  original 
level,  and  it  is  always  preferable  to  pot  a  plant  twice,  or  even 
three  times,  rather  than  place  it  in  a  pot  too  large. 

1 6.  Watering  Greenhouse  and  Window  Plants. 

Plants  cannot  be  satisfactorily  watered  just  so  many  times  a 
day,  week,  or  month.  All  plants  should  be  watered  when 
necessary  —  when  they  are  dry.  This  is  indicated  by  a  tendency 
to  flag  or  wilt,  or  by  the  hollow  sound  of  the  pots  when  tapped. 
The  latter  is  the  safest  sign,  as,  after  a  prolonged  period  of  dull 
weather,  many  plants  wilt  on  exposure  to  bright  sunshine, 
although  still  wet  at  the  roots.  But  a  growing  plant  should  not 
be  allowed  to  become  so  dry  as  to  wilt,  nor  should  the  soil  ever 
reach  a  condition  as  dry  as  powder.  This  is  a  condition,  how- 
ever, which  is  essential  to  some  plants,  more  particularly  the 
bulbous  and  tuberous  kinds,  during  their  resting  period.  In- 
cessant dribbling  should  be  avoided ;  water  thoroughly  and 
be  done  with  it  until  the  plants  are  again  dry.  Plants  under 
glass  should  not  be  sprayed  overhead  while  the  sun  is  shining 
hot  and  full  upon  them.  The  evening  is  the  best  time  of  the 
day  for  watering  in  summer,  and  morning  in  winter.  In  water- 
ing with  liquid  manure,  the  material  should  not  come  in  contact 
with  the  foliage.  Plants  recently  potted  should  not  be  watered 
heavily  at  the  roots  for  a  week  or  ten  days ;  spray  them  fre- 
quently overhead. 

17.  Liquid  Manure  for  Greenhouses. 

Most  of  the  artificial  fertilizers  may  be  used  in  the  preparation 
of  liquid  manure,  but  a  lack  of  knowledge  as  to  their  strength 
and  character  lessens  their  value  in  the  minds  of  gardeners. 
Pure  cow-manure,  which  varies  little  in  stimulating  property, 
is  considered  by  gardeners  to  be  the  safest  and  most  reliable 
material  to  use  for  a  liquid  fertilizer.  A  bushel  measure  of  the 
solid  manure  to  100  gallons  of  water  makes  a  mixture  which 
can  be  used  with  beneficial  results  on  the  tenderest  plants ; 
and  for  plants  of  rank  growth,  the  compound  may  be  gradually 


164 


HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 


increased  to  thrice  that  strength  with  safety.  Soot  may  be 
added  with  advantage,  using  it  at  the  rate  of  1  part  to  10  parts 
of  the  manure.  The  mixture  should  stand  for  a  few  days,  stir- 
ring it  occasionally,  before  application. 


IV.    LISTS  or  PLANTS. 
1 8.  Twenty-five  Plants  adapted  to  Window-gardens. 


POTS. 


Adiantum  cuneatum,  particu- 
larly the  form  known  as 
A.  gracillimum. 

Aloysia  citriodora. 

Begonia  metallica,  and  many 
others. 

Cocos  Weddelliana. 

Ficus  elastica. 


Freesia  refracta. 
Fuchsia,  varieties. 
Mahernia  odorata. 
Myrtus  communis. 
Pelargoniums,  in  variety. 
Primrose,  Chinese. 
Pteris  serrulata. 
Vallota  purpurea. 


BASKETS. 


Epiphyllum  truncatum. 
Fragaria  Indica. 
Fuchsia  procumbens. 
Othonna    crassifolia    ( Othon- 

nopsis  cheirifolia) . 
Oxalis  violacea. 


Pelargonium  peltatum. 

Saxifraga  sarrnentosa,  beef- 
steak geranium. 

Sedum  Sieboldii. 

Tradescantia  zebrina,  wander- 
ing Jew  (Zebrina  pendula). 


WATER. 


Eichhornia  crassipes  (E.  speci- 

osa) . 
Hyacinths. 


Narcissus  Tazetta,  var.  orienta- 
lis,  Chinese  sacred  lily. 


In  selecting  plants  for  a  window-garden  or  house  conserva- 
tory, those  plants  should  be  omitted  which  are  much  subject  to 
the  attacks  of  aphis  and  mealy-bug.  Amongst  the  common 
plants  which  are  much  infested,  are  coleus,  German  ivy  (Sene- 
cio  scandens),  calla,  Vinca  variegata,  Cyperus  alternifolius, 


GREENHOUSE  AND  WINDOW-GARDEN  WORK.      165 

fuchsia,  and  carnation.  Those  which  are  nearly  exempt  are 
most  kinds  of  geraniums,  begonias,  wandering  Jew,  and  most 
ferns.  (For  insects,  see  p.  17.) 

19.  Vegetables  used  for  Forcing  under  Glass. 


Asparagus. 

Bush  Bean. 

Carrot. 

Cauliflower ;  generally  matured 
under  glass,  as  a  late  spring 
crop. 

Cress. 

Cucumber ;  there  are  two  types 
of  forcing  cucumbers,  the 
common,  or  White  Spine 
type  and  the  English  or 
frame  varieties. 


Lettuce. 

Muskmelon;   generally  grown 

as  a  late  fall  or  late  spring 

crop. 
Parsley. 
Pea. 
Radish. 
Rhubarb. 
Sweet     herbs,      particularly 

spearmint. 
Tomato. 


Lettuce,  tomato,  cucumber,  asparagus,  and  bean  are  gener- 
ally the  most  profitable  forced  crops  in  this  country,  in  about 
the  order  named. 


20.  Twenty-five  Useful  Aquatic  and  Sub-aquatic  Plants  for 
Out-door  Use. 

T  denotes  those  which  do  not  endure  the  winter. 


Acorus  gramineus,  variegated. 
Aponogeton  distachyum. 
Azolla  Caroliniana. 
Caltha  palustris. 
Cyperus  alternifolius  ;  t. 
Eichhornia  crassipes  or  azurea, 

(properly  E.  speciosa)  ;  t. 
Limnanthemum  Indicum  ;  t. 
"  nymphoides. 

Liinnocharis  Humboldtii  (Hy- 

drocleys  Commersonii) . 


Myriophyllum  proserpinacoi- 
des;  t. 

Nelumbium(jyeZwm&o).  Many 
species  and  varieties.  Some  t. 

Nuphar  advena. 

Nymphsea.  Many  species  and 
varieties.  Some  t. 

Ouvirandra  f enestralis  (Apono- 
geton fenestrale}  ;  t. 

Papyrus  (Cyperus  Papyrus);  t. 


166 


HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 


Pistia  Stratiotes ;  t. 
Pontederia  cordata. 
Sagittaria  Monte  vidensis ;  t. 
Salvinia  natans. 
Sarracenia  purpurea. 


brina  (Juncus  effusus,  varie- 
gated). 

Trapa  natans. 

Typha  latifolia. 

Victoria  regia ;  t. 


Scirpus   Tabernsemontani    ze-    Zizania  aquatica. 

21.   Commercial  Plants  and  Flowers,  or  "Florists'  Plants." 
The  following  are  chiefly  grown  by  florists  in  this  country  : 


Adiantum. 

Alyssum. 

Anemone. 

Asparagus  plumosus. 

Aster,  China. 

Bouvardia. 

Calla. 

Carnation. 

Cattleya. 

Chrysanthemum. 

Coreopsis. 

Cypripedium. 

Daisy  (Bellis  perennis') . 

Freesia. 

Gaillardia. 

Gladiolus. 

Gypsophila. 

Helianthus. 

Heliotrope. 

Hyacinth. 

Iris. 


Lilium    Harrisii    (L.  longifto- 

rum,  var.  eximium). 
Lily  of  the  Valley. 
Marguerite     or    Paris    Daisy 

(Chrysanthemum  frutescens, 

and  (7.  fcKniculaceum). 
Mignonette. 
Narcissus. 
Nymphsea. 
Pansy. 
Pseonia. 
Phlox. 
Kose. 
Smilax   (Asparagus  medeoloi- 

des). 
Spirea. 

Stevia  (Piqueria  trinerma). 
Swainsonia. 
Sweet  Pea. 
Tuberose. 
Tulip. 
Violet. 


The  following  plants  can  be  grown  in  houses  which  are 
adapted  to  the  carnation : 


Alyssum. 
Asparagus  (edible). 


Asparagus  plumosus. 
Calla. 


GREENHOUSE  AND  WINDOW-GARDEN  WORK.      167 


Cauliflower. 

Mignonette. 

Chrysanthemum. 

Narcissus. 

Cress. 

Pansy. 

Daisy. 

Pea. 

Freesia. 

Radish. 

Gladiolus. 

Rhubarb. 

Hyacinth. 

Stevia. 

Iris. 

Sweet  Pea. 

Lettuce. 

Tulip. 

Lily  of  the  Valley  (not  for- 

Violet. 

cing). 

22.  Customary  temperatures 

in  which  plants 

are 

grown 

under 

glass. 

Day. 

Night. 

Aspara°ns  (edible)       . 

85° 

85° 

Asparagus  plumosus 

70° 

60° 

Bean 

75° 

65° 

\s    avaa 

Carnation*.     .     .          ... 

60° 

50° 

Cauliflower 

60° 

40° 

Chrysanthemum 

55° 

45° 

Cucumber      

80° 

70° 

\/  Lettuce 

65° 

40° 

Lily  (Easter)      

65° 

55° 

Lily  of  the  valley  (forcin0") 

90° 

90° 

Melon 

80° 

70° 

Mushroom  (under  benches  or  i] 

i  cellars)    .     .     . 

65° 

65° 

V  Radish                 

55° 

45° 

Rose 

65° 

65° 

Smilax  

60° 

50° 

Tomato      

7fi° 

60° 

Violet    . 

50° 

40° 

CHAPTER   XIV. 

METHODS  OF  KEEPING  AND  STORING  FRUITS 
AND  VEGETABLES.     MARKET  DATES. 

Apples.  — 

1.  Keep  the  fruit  as  cool  as  possible  without  freezing. 
Select  only  normal  fruit,  and  place  it  upon  trays  in  a  moist 
but  well-ventilated  cellar.    If  it  is  desired  to  keep  the  fruit 
particularly  nice,  allow  no  fruits  to  touch  each  other  upon 
the  trays,   and  the  individual  fruits  may  be  wrapped  in 
tissue  paper.    For  market  purposes,  pack  tightly  in  barrels 
after  the  apples  have  shrunk  and  store  the  barrels  in  a  very 
cool  place. 

2.  Some  solid  apples,  like  Spitzenburgh  and,  Newtown 
Pippin,  are  not  injured  by  hard  freezing,  if  they  are  allowed 
to  remain  frozen  until  wanted  and  are  then  thawed  out  very 
gradually. 

3.  Many  apples,  particularly  russets  and  other  firm  varie- 
ties, keep  well  when  buried  after  the  manner  of  pitting 
potatoes.     Sometimes,  however,  they  taste  of   the  earth. 
This  may  be  prevented  by  setting  a  ridge-pole  over  the  pile 
of  apples  in  forked  sticks,  and  making  a  roof  of  boards  in 
such  a  manner  that  there  will  be  an  air-space  over  the  fruit. 
Then  cover  the  boards  with   straw  and  earth.      Apples 
seldom  keep  well  after  removal  from  a  pit  in  spring. 

4.  Apples  may  be  kept  by  burying  in  chaff.     Spread 
chaff  —  buckwheat-chaff  is  good  —  on  the  barn-floor,  pile 
on  the  apples  and  cover  them  with  chaff  and  fine  broken  or 
chopped  straw  2  feet  thick,   exercising  care   to  fill  the 
interstices. 

Cabbage.  —  The  most  satisfactory  method  of  keeping  cabbages 
is  to  bury  them  in  the  field.     Select  a  dry  place,  pull  the 
168 


KEEPING  AND   STORING.  169 

cabbages  and  stand  them  head  down  on  the  soil.  Cover 
them  with  soil  to  the  depth  of  6  or  10  inches,  covering 
very  lightly  at  first  to  prevent  heating — unless  the  weather 
should  quickly  become  severe  —  and  as  winter  sets  in  cover 
with  a  good  dressing  of  straw  or  coarse  manure.  The 
cabbages  should  be  allowed  to  stand  where  they  grew  until 
cold  weather  approaches.  The  storing  beds  are  usually 
made  about  6  or  8  feet  wide,  so  that  the  middle  of  the  bed 
can  be  reached  from  either  side,  and  to  prevent  heating  if 
the  weather  should  remain  open.  Cabbages  quickly  decay 
in  the  warm  weather  of  spring. 

Cabbage  for  family  use  is  most  conveniently  kept  in  a 
barrel  or  box  half  buried  in  the  garden.  Cabbages  and 
turnips  should  never  be  kept  in  the  house  cellar,  as  when 
decaying  they  become  very  offensive. 

Celery.  —  For  market  purposes,  celery  is  stored  in  temporary 
board  pits,  in  sheds,  in  cellars,  and  in  various  kinds  of  earth 
pits  and  trenches.  The  points  to  be  considered  are,  to 
provide  the  plants  with  moisture  to  prevent  wilting,  to  pre- 
vent hard  freezing,  and  to  give  some  ventilation.  The 
plants  are  set  loosely  in  the  soil.  There  are  several  methods 
of  keeping  celery  in  an  ordinary  cellar  for  home  use.  The 
following  methods  are  good : 

Select  a  shoe  or  similar  box.  Bore  one-inch  holes  in  the 
sides,  four  inches  from  bottom.  Put  a  layer  of  sand  or  soil 
in  the  box,  and  stand  the  plants,  trimmed  carefully,  upon 
it,  closely  together,  working  more  sand  or  soil  about  the 
root  part,  and  continuing  until  the  box  is  full.  The  soil 
should  be  watered  as  often  as  needed,  but  always  through 
the  holes  in  the  side  of  the  box.  Keep  the  foliage  dry. 

Celery  may  also  be  stored  and  well  blanched  at  the  same 
time,  in  a  similar  way,  by  standing  it  in  a  barrel  upon  a 
layer  of  soil.  Some  roots  and  soil  may  be  left  adhering  to 
the  plants.  Crowd  closely,  water  through  holes  near  the 
bottom  as  in  case  of  box  storage,  and  keep  the  plants  in  the 
dark. 

Blanched  celery  can  also  be  preserved  for  a  long  time  by 


170          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

trimming  closely  and  packing  upright  in  moss  inside  of  a 
box.  A  large  quantity  of  the  vegetable  may  thus  be  stored 
in  a  small  space. 

Crystallized  or  Glac6  Fruit.  —  The  principle  is  to  extract  the 
juice  from  the  fruit  and  replace  it  with  sugar  syrup,  which 
hardens  and  preserves  the  fruit  in  its  natural  shape.  The 
fruit  should  be  all  of  one  size  and  of  a  uniform  degree  of 
ripeness,  such  as  is  best  for  canning.  Peaches,  pears,  and 
similar  fruits  are  pared  and  cut  in  halves  ;  plums,  cherries, 
etc.,  are  pitted.  After  being  properly  prepared,  the  fruit 
is  put  in  a  basket  or  bucket  with  a  perforated  bottom  and 
immersed  in  boiling  water  to  dilute  and  extract  the  juice. 
This  is  the  most  important  part  of  the  process,  and  requires 
great  skill.  If  the  fruit  be  left  too  long,  it  is  over-cooked 
and  becomes  soft ;  if  not  long  enough,  the  juice  is  not  suffi- 
ciently extracted,  and  this  prevents  perfect  absorption  of 
the  sugar.  After  the  fruit  cools,  it  may  again  be  assorted 
as  to  softness.  The  syrup  is  made  of  white  sugar  and 
water.  The  softer  the  fruit,  the  heavier  the  syrup  required. 
The  fruit  is  placed  in  earthen  pans,  covered  with  syrup  and 
left  about  a  week.  This  is  a  critical  stage,  as  fermentation 
will  soon  take  place,  and  when  this  has  reached  a  certain 
stage  the  fruit  and  syrup  are  heated  to  the  boiling-point, 
which  checks  the  fermentation.  This  is  repeated,  as  often 
as  may  be  necessary,  for  about  six  weeks.  The  fruit  is 
taken  out  of  the  syrup,  washed  in  clean  water,  and  either 
glacSd  or  crystallized,  as  desired.  It  is  dipped  in  thick 
syrup,  and  hardened  quickly  in  the  open  air  for  glacing, 
or  left  to  be  hardened  slowly  if  to  be  crystallized.  The 
fruit  is  now  ready  for  packing,  and  will  keep  in  any 
climate. 

Figs.  —  After  the  figs  are  gathered  and  dried  in  the  same  way 
as  peaches  or  apricots,  wash  to  remove  all  grit,  and  spread 
in  shallow  pans  and  set  them  in  the  oven  to  become 
thoroughly  heated,  taking  care  to  prevent  scorching.  Then 
roll  in  powdered  sugar,  which  has  been  rolled  to  remove  all 
lumps.  When  cold,  pack  away,  preferably  in  paper  bags. 


KEEPING   AND   STOKING.  171 

They  make  a  delicious  lunch  with  a  bowl  of  milk.     They 
are  also  excellent  for  the  dessert. 

Gooseberries  keep  well  if  kept  tight  in  common  bottles  filled 
with  pure  water.  Be  sure  that  none  but  perfect  berries  are 
admitted,  and  keep  in  a  cool  place.  The  berries  should  be 
picked  before  they  are  ripe,  or  edible  from  the  hand,  —  in 
the  stage  at  which  they  are  used  for  culinary  purposes. 

Grapes.  — 

1.  The  firm  grapes  usually  keep  best — as  Catawba,  Ver- 
gennes,  Niagara,  Diana,  Jefferson,  etc.  Thickness  of  skin 
does  not  appear  to  be  correlated  with  good  keeping  qualities. 
Always  cut  the  bunches  which  are  to  be  stored  on  a  dry 
day,  when  the  berries  are  ripe,  and  carefully  remove  all 
soft,  bruised,  and  imperfect  fruits  and  all  leaves.  Keep 
the  fruit  dry,  cool,  and  away  from  currents  of  air.  Many 
varieties  keep  well  if  simply  placed  in  shallow  boxes  or 
baskets  and  kept  undisturbed  in  a  cool,  rather  moist  place. 
•  '  2.  Pack  the  bunches  in  layers  of  dry,  clean  sand. 

3.  Pack  in  layers  of  some  small  grain,  as  wheat,  or  oats, 
or  barley. 

4.  Cork-dust  is  also  excellent  for  use  in  packing  grapes. 
This  cork  can  be  had  from  grocers  who  handle  the  white 
Malagas,  which  are  packed  in  this  material. 

5.  Pack  the  bunches  in  finely  cut,  soft,  and  dry  hay, 
placing  the  grapes  and  hay  in  consecutive  layers. 

6.  Dry  hardwood  sawdust  is  also  good  for  packing. 

7.  Place  on  shelves  in  a  cool,  airy  room.     After  a  few 
days  wrap  the  bunches  separately  in  soft  paper  and  pack  in 
shallow  pasteboard  boxes,  not  more  than  two  or  three 
layers  deep.    Keep  in  a  cool,  dry  room  that  is  free  from 
frost. 

8.  Cut  the  bunches  with  sharp  scissors,  place  in  shallow 
baskets,  but  few  in  a  basket,  and  after  reaching  the  house 
dip  the  cut  end  of  stems  in  melted  wax.     Now  take  tissue 
paper  or  very  thin  manila  paper  cut  just  to  the  right  size,  and 
carefully  wrap  each  cluster  of  grapes.     Secure  shallow  tin 
boxes  ;  place  a  layer  of  cotton-batting  at  the  bottom,  then 


172 


a  layer  of  grapes,  then  batting  ;  three  layers  of  grapes  are 
enough  for  one  box,  alternating  with  cotton-batting,  and 
topping  with  batting ;  then  gently  secure  the  lid  to  each 
box,  and  when  done  place  in  cold  storage  for  use  in  April 
or  even  later.  If  cold  storage  cannot  be  had,  put  in  a  dry, 
cool  room,  and  when  cold  weather  approaches  cover  in  an 
interior  closet  with  just  sufficient  covering  to  prevent 
freezing ;  warmth  will  cause  over-ripening  and  deteriora- 
tion. 

9.  ROE'S  METHOD.  —  In  a  stone  jar  place  alternate 
layers  of  grapes  and  straw  paper,  the  paper  being  in  double 
thickness.  Over  the  jar  place  a  cloth  and  bury  below  frost 
in  a  dry  soil.  The  grapes  will  keep  until  New  Year's. 
KEEPING  GRAPES  FOR  MARKET  (W.  M.  Pattison,  Quebec). — 
It  is  the  generally  received  opinion  that  the  thick-skinned 
native  seedlings  are  the  only  keepers.  This  is  correct  as 
regards  preserving  flavor,  but  several  hybrids  of  foreign 
blood  are  the  best  keepers  known.  Before  giving  results  of 
this  and  former  trials,  instructions  in  packing  may  be  of 
service.  The  varieties  intended  to  be  laid  up  for  winter  use 
should  be  those  alone  which  adhere  well  to  the  stem  and  are 
not  inclined  to  shrivel.  These  should  be  allowed  to  remain 
on  the  vines  as  long  as  they  are  safe  from  frost.  A  clear, 
dry  day  is  necessary  for  picking,  and  careful  handling  and 
shallow  baskets  are  important.  The  room  selected  for  the 
drying  process  should  be  well  ventilated,  and  the  fruit  laid 
out  in  single  layers  on  tables  or  in  baskets  where  the  air 
circulates  freely,  the  windows  being  closed  at  night  and  in 
damp  weather.  In  about  ten  days  the  stems  will  be  dried 
out  sufficiently  to  prevent  molding  when  laid  away.  When 
danger  from  this  is  over,  and  the  stems  resemble  those  ot 
raisins,  the  time  for  packing  has  arrived.  In  this,  the  point 
to  be  observed  is  to  exclude  air  proportionately  with  their 
tendency  to  mold.  I  have  used  baskets  for  permanent 
packing,  but  much  prefer  shallow  trays  or  boxes  of  uniform 
size  to  be  packed  on  each  other,  so  that  each  box  forms  a 
cover  for  the  lower,  the  uppermost  only  needing  one.  Until 


KEEPING   AND   STORING. 


173 


very  cold  -weather,  the  boxes  can  be  piled  so  as  to  allow 
the  remaining  moisture  to  escape  through  a  crevice  about  the 
width  of  a  knife-blade.  Before  packing,  each  bunch  should 
be  examined  and  all  injured,  cracked,  and  rotten  berries 
removed  with  suitable  scissors.  If  two  layers  are  packed  in 
a  box,  a  sheet  of  paper  should  intervene.  The  boxes  must 
be  kept  in  a  cool,  dry  room  or  passage,  at  an  even  tempera- 
ture. If  the  thermometer  goes  much  below  freezing-point, 
a  blanket  or  newspaper  can  be  thrown  over  them,  to  be  re- 
moved in  mild  weather.  Looking  over  them  once  in  the 
winter  and  removing  defective  berries  will  suffice,  the 
poorest  keepers  being  placed  accessible.  Under  this  treat- 
ment the  best  keepers  will  be  in  good  edible  order  as  late  as 
February,  after  which  they  deteriorate. 

The  following  is  a  list  of  grapes  worth  noticing,  that  have 
been  tested  for  keeping : 


DESCRIPTION. 

LIST  OF  GRAPES  TO  BE  RECOMMENDED. 

Nov.  1st. 

Lady,  Antoinette,  Carlotta,  Belinda. 

1 

jj 

H 

Dec.  1st. 

Lady  Washington,  Peter  Wiley,  Mason,  Wor- 

g 

t» 

den,  Senasqua,  Romell's  Superior,  Ricketts* 

A 

No.  546,  Concord,  Delaware. 

0 

O 

Jan.  1st. 

Duchess,  Essex,  Barry,  Rockland,  Favorite, 

fc     • 

Aminia,  Garber,  Massasoit,  Demsey's  No. 

CM 

w 

5,  Burnett,  Undine,  Allen's  Hybrid,  Aga- 

H 

M 

wan,  Gen.  Pope,  Francis  Scott. 

g 
| 

Jan.  15th. 

Salem,  Vergennes,  El  Dorado. 

3 

Feb.  1st. 

Wilder,  Herbert,  Peabody,  Rogers'  No.  30, 

• 

Gsertner,  Mary  and  Owosso. 

174          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

Onions  demand  a  dry  cellar,  and  the  bulbs  should  be  thoroughly 
dried  in  the  sun  before  they  are  stored.  All  tops  should  be 
cut  away  when  the  onions  are  harvested.  If  a  cellar  can-^ 
not  be  had,  the  bulbs  may  be  allowed  to  freeze,  but  great 
care  must  be  exercised  or  the  whole  crop  will  be  lost.  The 
onions  must  not  be  subjected  to  extremes  of  temperature, 
and  they  should  not  thaw  out  during  the  winter.  They 
can  be  stored  on  the  north  side  of  a  loft,  being  covered  with 
two  or  three  feet  of  straw,  hay,  or  chaff  to  preserve  an 
equable  temperature,  They  must  not  be  handled  while 
frozen,  and  they  must  thaw  out  very  gradually  in  the 
spring.  This  method  of  keeping  onions  is  reliable  only 
when  the  weather  is  cold  and  tolerably  uniform,  and  it  is 
little  used. 

Orange. — Aside  from  the  customary  wrapping  of  oranges  in 
tissue  paper  and  packing  them  in  boxes,  burying  in  dry 
sand  is  sometimes  practised.  The  fruit  is  first  wrapped  in 
tissue  paper,  and  it  should  be  buried  in  such  manner  that 
the  fruit  shall  not  be  more  than  three  tiers  deep. 

Pears.  —  Pears  should  be  picked  several  days  or  a  couple  of 
weeks  before  they  are  ripe,  and  then  placed  in  a  dry  and 
well-ventilated  room,  like  a  chamber.  Make  very  shallow 
piles,  or,  better,  place  on  trays.  They  will  then  ripen  up 
well.  The  fruits  are  picked  when  full  grown  but  not  ripe, 
and  when  the  stem  separates  readily  from  the  fruit-spur  if 
the  pear  is  lifted  up.  All  pears  are  better  for  being  pre- 
maturely picked  in  this  way.  Winter  pears  are  stored  in 
the  same  manner  as  winter  apples. 

Quinces  are  kept  in  the  same  way  as  winter  apples  and  winter 
pears.  Some  varieties,  particularly  the  Champion,  may  be 
kept  until  after  New  Year's  in  a  good  cellar. 

Roots  of  all  sorts,  as  beets,  carrots,  salsify,  parsnips,  can  be 
kept  from  wilting  by  packing  them  in  damp  sphagnum 
moss,  like  that  used  by  nurserymen.  They  may  also  be 
packed  in  sand.  It  is  an  erroneous  notion  that  parsnips 
and  salsify  are  not  good  until  after  they  are  frozen. 

Squashes  should  be  stored  in  a  dry  room  in  which  the  temper- 


KEEPING   AND   STORING.  175 

ature  is  uniform  and  about  50°.  Growers  for  market 
usually  build  squash  houses  or  rooms  and  heat  them.  Great 
care  should  be  taken  not  to  bruise  any  squashes  which  are 
to  be  stored.  Squashes  procured  from  the  market  have 
usually  been  too  roughly  handled  to  be  reliable  for  storing. 
Sweet  potatoes.  —  IN  THE  NORTH.  —  Dig  the  potatoes  on  a 
sunny  day,  and  allow  them  to  dry  thoroughly  in  the  field. 
Sort  out  the  poor  ones  and  handle  the  remainder  carefully. 
Never  allow  them  to  become  chilled.  Then  pack  them 
in  barrels  in  layers,  in  dry  sand,  and  store  in  a  warm  cellar. 
They  are  sometimes  stored  in  finely  broken  charcoal,  in 
charcoal-dust,  wheat-chaff,  and  similar  substances. 

Sometimes  they  are  kept  in  small  and  open  crates,  with- 
out packing-material,  the  crates  being  stacked  so  as  to 
allow  thorough  ventilation.  The  Hayman  or  Southern 
Queen  keeps  well  in  this  way. 

A  warm  attic  is  often  a  good  place  in  which  to  store 
sweet  potatoes.  A  tight  room  .over  a  kitchen  is  particularly 
good  when  it  is  so  arranged  that  the  heat  from  the  kitchen 
can  be  utilized  in  warming  it. 

IN  THE  SOUTH  (Berckmans).  — Digging  the  tubers  should 
be  delayed  until  the  vines  have  been  sufficiently  touched  by 
frost  to  check  vegetation.  Allow  the  potatoes  to  dry  off  in 
the  field,  which  will  take  but  a  few  hours.  Then  sort  all 
those  of  eating  size  to  be  banked  separately  from  the  smaller 
ones.  The  banks  are  prepared  as  follows :  Make  a  circular 
bed  6  feet  in  diameter,  in  a  sheltered  corner  of  the  garden, 
throwing  up  the  earth  about  a  foot  high.  Cover  this  with 
straw  and  bank  up  the  tubers  in  shape  of  a  cone,  using  from 
10  to  20  bushels  to  each  bank.  A  triangular  pipe  made  of 
narrow  planks  to  act  as  a  ventilator  should  be  placed  in  the 
middle  of  the  cone.  Cover  the  tubers  with  straw  6  to  10 
inches  thick  and  bank  the  latter  with  earth,  first  using  only 
a  small  quantity,  but  increasing  the  thickness  a  week  or  ten 
days  afterwards.  A  board  should  be  placed  upon  the  top 
of  the  ventilating  pipe  to  prevent  water  from  reaching  the 
tubers.  Several  banks  are  usually  made  in  a  row,  and  a 


176          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

rough  shelter  of  boards  built  over  the  whole.  The  main 
point  to  be  considered  in  putting  up  sweet  potatoes  for  win- 
ter is  entire  freedom  from  moisture  and  sufficient  covering 
to  prevent  heating.  It  is  therefore  advisable  to  allow  the 
tubers  to  undergo  sweating  (which  invariably  occurs  after 
being  put  in  heaps)  before  covering  them  too  much  ;  and  if 
the  temporary  covering  is  removed  for  a  few  hours,  a  week 
after  being  heaped,  the  moisture  generated  will  be  removed 
and  very  little  difficulty  will  follow  from  that  cause.  If 
covered  too  thickly  at  once,  the  sweating  often  engenders 
rapid  fermentation,  and  loss  is  then  certain  to  follow.  Sand 
is  never  used  here  in  banking  potatoes.  Some  varieties  of 
potatoes  keep  much  better  than  others.  The  Yellow  Sugar 
Yam  and  the  Pumpkin  Yam  are  the  most  difficult  to  carry 
through  ;  while  the  Trinidad  potato  keeps  as  readily  as  Irish 
potatoes,  only  requiring  to  be  kept  free  from  frost  and  light 
by  a  slight  covering  of  straw,  if  the  tubers  are  placed  in  a 
house.  Next  in  keeping  quality  come  the  Hayti  Yam,  the 
Red-skinned,  Brimstone,  Nigger  Killer  ;  and  the  last  of  the 
potato  section  is  the  Nansemond. 

Tomatoes.  —  Pick  the  firmest  fruits  just  as  they  are  beginning 
to  turn,  leaving  the  stems  on,  exercising  care  not  to  bruise 
them,  and  pack  in  a  barrel  or  box  in  clean  and  thoroughly 
dry  sand,  placing  the  fruits  so  that  they  will  not  touch  each 
other.  Place  the  barrel  in  a  dry  place. 

In  the  autumn  when  frosts  appear,  tomatoes,  if  carefully 
picked  and  laid  on  straw  under  the  glass  of  cold  frames, 
will  continue  to  ripen  until  near  Christmas.  Fruit  ripened 
in  this  way  seems  to  be  as  good  as  that  ripened  naturally  on 
the  vines.  Green  but  full-grown  tomatoes  may  be  gradually 
ripened  by  placing  them  in  cupboards  or  bureau  drawers. 

The  ripening  of  tomatoes  may  be  hastened  ten  days  by 
bagging  them  as  grapes  are  bagged. 

Grading  and  packing  fruit.  —  A  first-class  apple,  pear,  or 
other  tree  fruit  is  one  which  is  full  grown,  of  normal  size, 
symmetrical,  characteristic  of  the  variety,  wholly  free  of 
blemishes  of  insects  or  fungi,  and  not  overripe.  In  apples, 


KEEPING   AND    STORING.  177 

pears,  and  plums,  the  stem  must  be  left  on  if  the  specimen 
is  to  be  first-class,  but  in  peaches,  apricots,  quinces,  and 
oranges,  the  stem  remains  upon  the  tree  or,  at  least,  is  not 
necessary  to  a  first-class  fruit. 

Second-class  fruits  are  generally  considered  to  be  those 
which  fall  below  first-class  and  which  are  good  enough  for 
marketing.  They  are  sound  enough  to  keep  well,  are  fairly 
uniform  in  size  and  shape,  but  may  have  more  or  less  sur- 
face blemishes.  A  small,  dry  worm-hole  in  the  blossom  end 
of  an  apple  or  pear  makes  the  fruit  second-class. 

The  greatest  care  should  be  exercised  in  packing  fruits 
for  market.  Apples  and  pears  which  are  to  be  shipped  in 
barrels  are  commonly  packed  as  soon  as  they  leave  the 
trees,  but  if  the  fruit  is  to  be  used  for  winter  storage,  it 
should  be  allowed  to  sweat  and  shrink  before  barrelling. 
These  processes  may  be  allowed  to  take  place  in  piles  in  the 
orchard  or  in  bins  under  cover,  but  the  fruit  should  gener- 
ally be  kept  cool.  The  piles  should  be  in  the  shade  of 
trees  if  possible,  or,  if  under  cover,  in  a  cool  shed  or  barn, 
as  under  a  north  or  a  shaded  roof.  The  first  layer  of  fruit 
on  either  end  of  the  barrel  should  be  "faced,"  by  placing 
the  fruits  in  concentric  rings  around  the  head  with  the  stem 
end  next  the  head.  After  the  lower  end  is  faced,  fruit  of 
uniform  grade  is  carefully  poured  or  placed  in,  the  barrel 
being  lightly  shaken  once  or  twice  to  settle  the  fruit.  The 
upper  end  should  usually  be  faced  like  the  lower  one,  and 
the  fruit  should  stand  an  inch  or  less  above  the  rim  of  the 
barrel  before  the  head  is  pressed  in.  The  shipping-mark  is 
usually  placed  on  the  opposite  head,  or  the  one  which  stood 
on  the  ground  whilst  the  packing  proceeded,  and  this  then 
becomes  the  top  end.  Merchants  frequently  turn  the 
barrel  over  and  open  the  other  end,  however;  hence  this 
should  be  faced  as  advised.  Sprayed  fruits  shrink  less  and 
keep  longer  than  unsprayed  samples. 

Perishable  and  dessert  fruits  which  are  shipped  in  bas- 
kets or  other  small  packages,  should  be  carefully  laid  in 
one  by  one,  in  layers.  They  will  then  ship  without  set- 


178          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

tling.  See  that  the  packages  are  full  when  they  leave  the 
packing-house.  Care  must  be  exercised  not  to  rub  the 
bloom  off  grapes  and  plums.  Grape  clusters  should  have 
all  imperfect  berries  cut  away  before  packing.  If  berries 
are  picked  when  dry,  and  cooled  off  before  packing,  they 
may  be  shipped  in  tight  unventilated  packages. 
Chautauqua  grape  figures.  —  The  grapes  are  shipped  in 
9-pound  Climax  baskets,  which  weigh,  when  not  filled, 
including  cover,  24  ounces,  holding  7|  pounds  of  grapes. 
A  carload  is  2800  to  3000  baskets.  The  railroads  count 
222  baskets  to  the  ton.  A  girl  will  pack  from  100  to  150 
baskets  per  day.  One  cent  per  basket  is  paid  for  packing. 
An  average  acre  of  Concord  grapes  yields  about  500  baskets. 
The  average  annual  cost  of  cultivating  the  vineyard  up  to 
picking  time  is  $  8.  The  expense  of  picking,  packing,  pack- 
ages, and  carting  is  about  $  28  for  the  500  baskets.  The 
bunches  are  cut  from  the  vines  with  shears  made  for  the 
purpose.  In  the  packing-house  the  bunches  are  trimmed. 

Dates  at  which  Various  Fruits  and  Nuts  appear  in  Northern 
Markets.  {From  New  England  Grocer.) 

NUTS.  —  Peanuts,  about  the  first  of  November. 

Walnuts  —  French,  Naples,  and  Grenoble  —  about  the  middle 
of  November. 

Pecans,  about  the  same  time  as  walnuts. 

Filberts,  about  the  first  of  November. 

Castanas  (Bertholletia  or  Brazil-nut),  early  in  March. 

Almonds,  shelled  about  October  first,  and  Ivica  and  Prin- 
cess about  forty -five  days  later. 

Shellbarks,  October  first. 

Baracoa  cocoanuts  begin  to  come  during  the  latter  part  of 
March  and  the  first  of  April. 

Chestnuts,  late  in  September. 

DRIED  FRUITS.  —  Citron  (Leghorn),  October  first. 

Currants,  the  middle  of  October. 

Dates,  Fard  about  the  middle  of  November,  and  Persian 
about  December  12. 


KEEPING   AND   STORING.  179 

Prunes,  French,  about  the  middle  of  October,  and  Turkish  a 
month  or  so  later. 

Raisins,  Malaga  fruit  —  which  includes  loose  Muscatels,  2,  3, 
4,  and  6-crown,  and  Imperial  Cabinet  layers,  B.  B. ,  Empire 
Cluster,  Royal,  and  Imperial  —  begin  to  put  in  appearance 
about  the  first  of  November.  California  raisins  begin  to  come 
early  in  October.  Sultana  raisins  are  due  about  October  first, 
and  New  Valencias  about  the  same  time. 

FOREIGN  GREEN  FRUIT.  —  Oranges  —  Messina,  Valencia,  and 
Palermo,  and  all  Mediterranean  fruit,  early  in  December. 

Florida  oranges  generally  begin  to  arrive  the  first  of  Novem- 
ber. Jamaicas  get  here  the  middle  of  September. 

Lemons  —  Messina,  Valencia,  and  Palermo,  and  all  Mediter- 
ranean fruit,  December  first. 

Aspinwall,  Cuban,  Jamaica,  and  Baracoa  bananas  come  the 
year  round,  every  month  in  the  year,  and  about  every  day  in  the 
month  a  portion  of  the  time  —  certainly  every  week  in  each  month. 

Pineapples,  mostly  Havanas,  come  whenever  there  is  a 
demand  for  them,  the  year  round.  Florida  pines  come  during 
the  latter  part  of  May  and  the  first  of  June. 

Grapes,  Malagas,  are  due  about  October  first. 

New  figs  begin  to  come  along  about  the  same  time. 

DOMESTIC  GREEN  FRUIT  — Apples,  new,  early  in  August. 
Russets  generally  make  their  appearance  upon  the  market  early 
in  the  winter,  and  Gravensteins  in  December. 

Pears,  September. 

Peaches,  Jersey,  latter  part  of  August  and  early  in  September. 
Delawares  early  in  August. 

Plums,  all  along  from  August  first  to  the  middle  of  November. 

Grapes,  Hamburgs,  are  in  the  market  about  all  the  year 
round,  save,  perhaps,  three  or  four  months.  Catawbas  arrive 
about  the  middle  of  August,  and  Ives  about  the  same  time. 

Berries.  Blueberries,  usually  in  July.  Blackberries  are 
liable  to  arrive  any  time  in  June. 

Watermelons  are  with  us  from  the  first  of  June  to  the  first  of 
September. 

Cantaloupes,  early  in  July,  lasting  about  three  months. 


CHAPTER   XV. 

COLLECTING  AND  PRESERVING  SPECIMENS 
FOR  CABINETS  OR  EXHIBITION.  PER- 
FUMERY. LABELS.  PRESERVING  "WOOD. 

i.   Collecting  and  Preserving  Plants 

Collect  samples  of  all  parts  of  the  plant,  —  lower  and  upper 
leaves,  stem,  flowers,  fruit,  and  in  most  cases  roots.  In  small 
species,  those  two  feet  high  or  less,  the  whole  plant  should  be 
taken.  Of  larger  plants,  take  portions  about  a  foot  long.  Press 
the  plants  between  papers  or  "driers."  These  driers  maybe 
any  thick  porous  paper,  as  blotting-paper  or  carpet-paper,  or, 
for  plants  that  are  not  succulent  or  very  juicy,  newspapers  in 
several  thicknesses  may  be  used.  It  is  best  to  place  the  speci- 
mens in  sheets  of  thin  paper  —  grocer's  tea-paper  is  good  —  and 
place  these  sheets  between  the  driers.  Many  specimens  can  be 
placed  in  a  pile.  On  top  of  the  pile  place  a  short  board  and  a 
weight  of  30  or  40  pounds,  or  a  lighter  weight  if  the  pile  is 
small  and  the  plants  are  soft.  Change  the  driers  every  day. 
The  plants  are  dry  when  they  become  brittle,  and  when  no 
moisture  can  be  felt  by  the  fingers.  Some  plants  will  dry  in 
two  or  three  days,  while  others  require  as  many  weeks.  If  the 
pressing  is  properly  done,  the  specimens  will  come  out  smooth 
and  flat,  and  the  leaves  will  usually  be  green,  although -some 
plants  always  turn  black  in  drying. 

Specimens  are  usually  mounted  on  single  sheets  of  white 
paper  of  the  stiffness  of  very  heavy  writing-paper  or  thin  Bristol- 
board.  The  standard  size  of  sheet  is  11  £  x  16 £  inches.  The 
plants  may  be  pasted  down  permanently  and  entirely  to  the 
sheet,  or  they  may  be  held  on  by  strips  of  gummed  paper.  In 
the  former  case,  Denison's  fish-glue  is  the  best  gum  to  use. 

180 


COLLECTING   AND   PRESERVING.  181 

Only  one  species  or  variety  should  be  placed  on  a  sheet.  Speci- 
mens which  are  taller  than  the  length  of  a  sheet  should  be 
doubled  over  when  they  are  pressed.  The  species  of  a  genus 
are  collected  into  a  genus  cover.  This  cover  is  a  folded  sheet  of 
heavy  manila  or  other  firm  paper,  and  the  standard  size,  when 
folded,  is  12  x  16J  inches.  On  the  lower  left-hand  corner  of 
this  cover  the  name  of  the  genus  is  written.  A  label  should 
accompany  each  specimen  upon  the  separate  sheets,  recording 
the  name,  date  of  collecting,  name  of  collector,  and  any  notes 
which  may  be  of  interest.  The  specimens  are  now  ready  to  be 
filed  away  on  shelves  in  a  horizontal  position.  If  insects  attack 
the  specimens,  they  may  be  destroyed  by  fumes  of  bisulphide 
of  carbon  (see  Chap.  I.)  or  chloroform.  In  this  case  it  is  neces- 
sary to  place  the  specimens  in  a  tight  box  and  then  insert  the 
liquid.  Lumps  of  camphor  placed  in  the  cabinet  are  useful  in 
keeping  away  insects.  Usually,  however,  specimens  are  dipped 
in  poison,  and  then  dried  before  being  mounted. 

HERBARIUM  POISONS.  —  1.  120  grains  of  arsenic  acid  dissolved 
in  a  quart  of  alcohol.  The  arsenic  acid  is  very  deliquescent  and 
the  bottle  must  be  kept  tightly  corked.  This  is  Dr.  Gray's 
favorite  preparation  for  use  in  the  herbarium  at  Harvard  Uni- 
versity. 

2.  Place  as  much  corrosive  sublimate  in  alcohol  as  the  liquid 
will  dissolve.    If  the  poison  is  applied  with  a  brush,  care  must 
be  taken  to  avoid  one  with  iron  trimmings,  as  the  sublimate  cor- 
rodes the  iron. 

3.  Dissolve  If  ounces  of  corrosive  sublimate  in  1  pint  of  alco- 
hol ;  add  2J  fluid  drams  of  carbolic  acid,  and  apply  with  a 
paint-brush. 

4.  1  pound  of  corrosive  sublimate,  1  pound  of  carbolic  acid 
to  4  gallons  of  methylated  spirit  (wood  alcohol). 

2.   Preserving,  Printing,   and  Imitating  Flowers  and  Other 
Parts  of  Plants. 

To  PRESERVE  THE  COLOR  OF  DRIED  FLOWERS.  —  1.  Im- 
merse the  stem  of  the  fresh  specimen  in  a  solution  of  32  parts 
by  weight  of  alum,  4  of  nitre,  and  186  of  water  for  two  or  three 


182          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

days  until  the  liquid  is  thoroughly  absorbed,  and  then  press  in  the 
ordinary  way,  except  that  dry  sand  is  sifted  over  the  specimen 
and  the  packet  submitted  to  the  action  of  gentle  heat  for  24  hours. 

2.  Make  a  varnish  composed  of  20  parts  of  powdered  copal 
and  500  parts  of  ether,  powdered  glass  or  sand  being  used  to 
make  the  copal  dissolve  more  readily.    Into  this  solution  the 
plants  are  carefully  dipped ;  then  they  are  allowed  to  dry  for 
10  minutes,   and  the  same  process  is  repeated  four  or  five 
times  in  succession. 

3.  Plants  may  also  be  plunged  in  a  boiling  solution  of  1  part 
of  salicylic  acid  and  600  of  alcohol,  and  then  dried  in  bibulous 
paper.    But  this  should  be  done   very  rapidly,  violet  flowers 
especially  being  decolorized  by  more  than  an  instantaneous 
immersion. 

4.  Red  flowers  which  have  changed  to  a  purplish  tint  in  dry- 
ing may  have  their  color  restored  by  laying  them  on  a  piece  of 
paper  moistened  with  dilute  nitric  acid  (1  part  to  10  or  12  parts 
of  water),  and  then  submitting  them  to  moderate  pressure  for 
a  few  seconds ;  but  the  solution  must  not  touch  the  green 
leaves,  as  they  are  decolorized  by  it. 

5.  With  Sulphur.     (Quin.)     Procure  a  chest  about  3  or  4 
feet  square,  with  a  small  opening  in  the  under  part  of  one  side, 
to  be  closed  by  a  bar,  through  which  the  basin  containing  brim- 
stone must  be  put  into  the  chest ;  this  opening  must  be  covered 
inside  with  perforated  tin,  in  order  to  prevent  those  flowers 
which  hang  immediately  over  the  basin  from  being  spoiled. 
Paper  the  inside  to  render  it  air-tight.     When  the  chest  is  ready 
for  use,  nail  small  laths  on  two  opposite  sides  of  the  interior,  at 
a  distance  of  about  6  inches  apart,  and  on  these  lay  thin  round 
sticks  upon  which  to  arrange  the  flowers  ;  these  should  not  be 
too  close  together,  or  the  vapor  will  not  circulate  freely  through 
the  vacant  spaces  around  the  flowers.     When  the  chest  is  suffi- 
ciently full  of  flowers,  close  it  carefully,  place  a  damp  cloth  on 
the  sides  of  the  lid,  and  some  heavy  stones  upon  the  top  of  it ; 
then  take  small  pieces  of  brimstone,  put  them  in  a  small  flat 
basin,  kindle  and  put  through  the  opening  in  the  bottom  of  the 
chest  and  shut  the  bar.    Leave  the  chest  undisturbed  for  24 


COLLECTING   AND   PRESERVING.  183 

hours,  after  which  time  it  must  be  opened,  and  if  the  flowers 
be  sufficiently  smoked  they  will  appear  white,  if  not,  they  must 
be  smoked  again.  When  sufficiently  smoked,  take  the  flowers 
out  carefully  and  hang  them  up  in  a  dry,  airy  place  in  the 
shade,  and  in  a  few  days  or  even  hours  they  will  recover  their 
natural  color,  except  being  only  a  shade  paler. 

To  give  them  a  very  bright  and  shining  color,  plunge  them 
into  a  mixture  of  10  parts  of  cold  water  and  1  of  good  nitric 
acid  ;  drain  off  the  liquid,  and  hang  them  up  again  the  same  as 
before.  The  best  flowers  for  this  process  are  asters,  roses, 
fuchsias  (single  ones),  spireas  (red-flowered  kinds,  such  as 
callosa,  Douglasi,  etc.),  ranunculus,  delphiniums,  cytisus,  etc. 
The  roses  should  be  quite  open,  but  not  too  fully  blown. 

6.  In  Sand.  (Quin.)  Dry  the  plants  in  clean  silver  sand, 
free  from  organic  matter  (made  so  by  repeated  washing,  until 
the  sand  ceases  to  discolor  the  water) .  Heat  the  sand  rather  hot, 
and  mix  with  it  by  constant  stirring  with  a  small  piece  of  wax 
candle,  which  prevents  the  sand  from  adhering  to  the  flowers. 
Have  a  box  not  higher  than  3  inches,  but  as  broad  as  possible  ; 
this  box  should  have  instead  of  a  bottom  a  narrow-meshed  iron- 
wire  net  at  a  distance  of  f  inch  from  where  the  bottom  should 
be.  Place  the  box  on  a  board  and  fill  with  sand  till  the  net  is 
just  covered  with  a  thin  layer  of  sand  ;  upon  this  layer  of  sand 
place  a  layer  of  flowers,  on  that  a  layer  of  sand,  then  flowers, 
and  so  on  ;  the  layers  of  sand  should  vary  in  thickness  accord- 
ing to  the  kind  of  flowers,  from  £  inch  to  ^  inch. 

When  the  box  contains  about  three  layers  of  flowers,  it  must 
be  removed  to  a  very  sunny  dry  place,  the  best  being  close 
under  the  glass  in  an  empty  greenhouse,  exposed  to  the  full 
influence  of  the  sun.  After  a  week,  if  the  weather  is  sunny 
and  dry,  the  flowers  will  be  perfectly  dried ;  then  the  box  is 
lifted  a  little,  the  sand  falls  gently  through  the  iron  net,  and  the 
flowers  remain  in  their  position  over  the  net  without  any  dis- 
turbance whatever. 

They  should  then  be  taken  out  carefully  and  kept  in  a  dry 
and,  if  possible,  dark  place,  where  no  sun  can  reach  them,  and 
afterwards  they  will  keep  very  well  for  many  years. 


184          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

Care  should  be  taken  that  the  flowers  are  cut  in  dry  weather, 
and  that  while  lying  in  the  sand  no  part  of  a  flower  shall  touch 
another  part,  as  this  always  spoils  the  color  and  causes  decay. 
Sand  should  be  filled  in  between  all  the  parts  of  the  flower; 
therefore  it  is  necessary  to  insert  the  double  flowers  in  an  erect 
position,  in  order  to  fill  the  sand  between  the  petals,  while  most 
of  the  single  flowers  must  be  put  in  with  the  stalks  upwards. 

POINTING  PLANTS.  —  1.  First,  lightly  oil  one  side  of  paper, 
then  fold  in  four,  so  that  the  oil  may  filter  through  the  pores, 
and  the  plant  may  not  come  into  direct  contact  with  the  liquid. 
The  plant  is  placed  between  the  leaves  of  the  second  folding, 
and  in  this  position  pressed  (through  other  paper)  all  over  with 
the  hand,  so  as  to  make  a  small  quantity  of  oil  adhere  to  its 
surface.  Then  it  is  taken  out  and  placed  between  two  sheets  of 
white  paper  for  two  impressions,  and  the  plant  is  pressed  as 
before.  Sprinkle  over  the  invisible  image  remaining  on  the 
paper  a  quantity  of  black  lead  or  charcoal,  and  distribute  it  in 
all  directions  ;  the  image  then  appears  in  all  its  parts.  With  an 
assortment  of  colors  the  natural  colors  of  plants  may  be  repro- 
duced. To  obtain  fixity,  rosin  is  previously  added  to  the  black 
lead  in  equal  parts.  Expose  to  heat  sufficient  to  melt  the  rosin. 

2.  The  best  paper  to  use  is  ordinary  wove  paper,  without 
watermarks ;  if  it  can  be  afforded,  use  thin  drawing-paper. 
First  select  the  leaves,  then  carefully  press  and  dry  them.  If 
they  be  placed  in  a  plant-press,  care  must  be  taken  not  to  put 
too  great  pressure  on  the  specimens  at  first,  or  they  will  be 
spoiled  for  printing.  An  old  book  is  the  best  for  drying  the 
samples  to  be  used.  Take  printers'  or  proof  ink,  and  a  small 
leather  dabber  ;  work  a  bit  of  ink  about  the  size  of  a  pea  on  a 
small  piece  of  slate  or  glass,  with  the  dabber,  until  it  is  perfectly 
smooth.  A  drop  or  two  of  linseed  oil  will  assist  the  operation. 
Then  give  the  leaf  a  thin  coating,  being  careful  to  spread  it 
equally  ;  now  lay  the  leaf  ink  downwards  on  a  sheet  of  paper 
and  place  it  between  the  leaves  of  an  old  book,  which  must  then 
be  subjected  to  a  moderate  pressure  in  a  copying-press,  or 
passed  between  the  rollers  of  awringing-machine.  Impressions 
can  be  taken  with  greater  rapidity  by  laying  the  book  on  the 


COLLECTING   AND   PRESERVING.  185 

floor  and  standing  upon  it  for  a  few  seconds.  Soft  book-paper 
is  the  best.  Previous  to  using  it,  place  a  few  sheets  between 
damp  blotting-paper,  which  causes  it  to  take  the  ink  still  more 
readily.  At  first  you  will  find  that  you  lay  on  too  much  ink. 
If  the  impression  is  too  black,  use  the  leaf  again.  If  the  mid- 
rib of  the  leaf  is  too  thick,  it  must  be  shaved  down  with  a 
sharp  knife. 

3.  Leaf-Prints.  (Engle.)  1.  A  small  ink-roller,  such  as 
printers  use  for  inking  type.  2.  A  quantity  of  printers'  green 
ink.  3.  A  pane  of  stout  window-glass  (the  larger  the  better) 
fastened  securely  to  an  evenly  planed  board  twice  the  size  of  the 
glass.  A  small  quantity  of  the  ink  is  put  on  the  glass  and 
spread  with  a  knife,  after  which  it  is  distributed  evenly  by 
going  over  in  all  directions  with  the  ink-roller.  When  this  has 
been  carefully  done,  the  leaf  to  be  copied  is  laid  on  a  piece  of 
waste  paper  and  inked  by  applying  the  roller  once  or  twice  with 
moderate  pressure.  This  leaves  a  film  of  ink  on  the  veins  and 
network  of  the  leaf,  and  by  placing  it  on  a  piece  of  blank  paper 
and  applying  considerable  pressure  for  a  few  moments  the  work 
is  done,  and  when  the  leaf  is  lifted  from  the  paper  the  impress 
remains  with  all  its  delicate  tracery,  faithful  in  color  and  out- 
line to  the  original. 

To  make  the  ink  of  proper  consistency,  add  several  drops  of 
balsam  copaiba  to  a  salt-spoonful  of  ink.  In  case  the  leaf  sticks, 
the  ink  is  too  thick. 

SKELETONIZING  PLANTS.  —  I.  By  Maceration.  Place  the 
leaves  in  water  and  allow  them  to  remain  in  the  same  water  for 
from  3  to  4  months,  until  the  soft  matter  decays,  and  the  stem 
may  be  taken  in  the  hand  and  the  refuse  shaken  away.  There 
remains  behind  a  network  or  skeleton  of  the  original  object, 
which  can  be  bleached  with  a  little  lime.  Leaves  and  pods 
may  both  be  treated  satisfactorily  in  this  manner.  The  pod  of 
the  "Jimson  weed"  or  Datura  Stramonium  is  a  favorite  for 
this  purpose. 

2.  By  Chemicals.  Chloride  of  lime,  £  pound ;  washing 
soda,  i  pound.  Put  the  soda  into  \%  pints  boiling  water 
(rainwater  is  best)  and  let  it  thoroughly  dissolve.  Put  the 


186 


chloride  of  lime  in  a  large  pitcher,  and  add  same  quantity  of 
cold  water.  Stir  well  and  cover  closely  to  prevent  the  escape 
of  the  chlorine.  When  the  soda-water  is  cool,  pour  it  on  the 
chloride  of  lime,  stir  well  together  and  cover  tightly,  leaving  it 
for  an  hour-  or  more.  Then  pour  off  very  gently  the  clear 
liquid,  which  must  be  bottled  tightly. 

This  solution  will  remove  fruit-stains  from  white  goods,  and 
will  bleach  any  vegetable  substances.  When  used  for  cotton  or 
linen,  it  must  be  considerably  diluted,  and  the  goods  well  rinsed 
afterwards. 

WATERPROOF  PAPER  FOR  ARTIFICIAL  FLOWERS.  —  Water- 
proof paper,  transparent  and  impervious  to  grease,  is  obtained 
by  soaking  good  paper  in  an  aqueous  solution  of  shellac  and 
borax.  It  resembles  parchment  paper  in  some  respects.  If 
the  aqueous  solution  be  colored  with  aniline  colors,  very  hand- 
some paper,  of  use  for  artificial  flowers,  is  prepared. 

To  KEEP  FLOWERS  FRESH. — If  cut  flowers  are  not  needed 
immediately,  wet  them  and  then  wrap  them  in  paper  and  place 
in  a  tight  box  in  a  cool  place.  Keep  as  cool  as  possible  without 
freezing. 

The  disagreeable  odor  which  comes  from  flowers  in  vases  is 
due  to  the  decay  of  the  leaves  and  stems  in  the  water.  There- 
fore remove  all  the  lower  leaves  before  putting  flowers  in 


Flowers  that  have  stood  in  a  vase  for  a  day  or  so  can  be 
greatly  refreshed  if  taken  from  the  vase  at  night,  thoroughly 
sprinkled  and  wrapped,  stems,  blossoms,  and  all,  as  closely  as 
possible  in  a  soaked  cloth,  and  laid  aside  until  the  morning. 
They  will  be  much  fresher  than  if  they  had  been  left  in  their 
vases,  yet  will  not  have  bloomed  out  so  much.  Before  thus 
laying  them  aside,  and  again  in  the  morning,  a  bit  of  each  stem 
should  be  cut  off,  as  the  end  soon  hardens.  This  ought  also  to 
be  done  once  or  twice  a  day,  even  if  the  flowers  are  kept  con- 
stantly in  their  vases.  Roses  which  have  drooped  before  their 
time  —  as,  for  example,  when  worn  on  the  dress  —  may  be 
revived  if  the  stems,  after  being  thus  cut,  are  placed  for  ten 
minutes  in  almost  boiling  water  and  then  removed  to  cold  water. 


COLLECTING   AND   PRESERVING.  187 

It  is  also  well  to  add  a  little  charcoal  or  ammonia  to  the  water 
in  which  flowers  are  standing. 

If  salt  is  added  to  the  water  in  which  cut  flowers  are  kept,  it 
will  delay  wilting  and  decay. 

3.  Preserving  Fruits  for  Exhibition. 

1.  Corrosive  sublimate  —  which  is  a  violent  poison  —  is  pre- 
pared at  the  rate  of  half  an  ounce  to  a  gallon  of  water.     Renew 
the  liquid  every  year  or  two.    Distilled  or  other  very  pure  water 
should  be  used  if  it  is  desired  to  retain  the  color  of  the  fruit, 
and  glycerine  may  be  added  to  prevent  the  fruit  from  shrinking. 

2.  Sulphur  is  sometimes  used  as  follows :  Put  30  gallons  of 
water  in  a  40-gallon  barrel ;  float  on  top  of  the  water  a  tin  pan, 
in  which  put  a  little  sulphur.     Set  the  sulphur  on  fire  and  cover 
the  barrel  tightly  until  the  fire  goes  out ;    renew  the  sulphur 
several  times,  opening  the  barrel  for  renewal  of  air  between  the 
doses.     The  water  absorbs  the  sulphurous  acid,  and  the  fluid  is 
then  used  as  a  preservative. 

Better  results  are  generally  obtained  if  the  prepared  sulphur- 
ous acid  is  purchased.  It  costs  about  35  cents  per  pound  in 
5-pound  bottles.  Two  ounces  of  the  acid  is  added  to  a  gallon 
of  water. 

3.  Place  an  ounce  of  salicylic  acid  in  5  gallons  water,  and 
then  add  a  little  glycerine.    The  amount  of  glycerine  will 
depend  upon  the  juiciness  of  the  fruit.     The  greater  the  juici- 
ness, the  more  glycerine  must  be  added.     From  8  to  15  per  cent 
may  be  considered  an  average. 

Another  recipe,  and  one  particularly  useful  for  dark-colored 
grapes,  is  as  follows  :  Dissolve  an  ounce  of  salicylic  acid  in 
8  ounces  of  alcohol,  and  add  this  to  2  gallons  of  water.  Allow 
it  to  stand  for  a  short  time  before  using. 

4.  Boric  acid  may  be  used  as  a  preservative  by  dissolving  a 
half  pound  in  50  pounds  of  water.    If  the  liquid  is  not  clear, 
filter  it.     Useful  for  colored  fruits. 

5.  A  solution  of  zinc  chloride,  for  preserving  light-colored  and 
yellow  fruits,  is  made  by  dissolving  1  pound  of  the  chloride 
in  50  pounds  of  water.     Filter  if  the  solution  is  not  clear. 


188          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

6.  Bisulphite  of  soda,  £  ounce  of  the  pure,  dry,  commercial 
article,  to  a  gallon  of  water,  to  which  is  added  4  ounces   of 
alcohol,  makes  a  good  preservative.    It  is  best  to  dissolve  the 
bisulphite  in  a  half  pint  of  water,  before  adding  the  remainder 
of  the  water  and  the  alcohol.     Filter  if  necessary.     The  alco- 
hol is  added  to  prevent  the  fruit  from  bursting. 

7.  Pure  kerosene  is  excellent  in  which  to  preserve  straw- 
berries and  blackcap  raspberries.    Be  sure  that  no  drops  of 
water  adhere  to  the  fruits  before  they  are  placed  in  the  oil. 

8.  Alcohol  preserves  fruits  almost  perfectly,  except  that  it 
destroys  the  color.     High-grade  alcohol  is  usually  diluted  one- 
half  with  pure  water  before  using. 

9.  Formic  acid  is  an  excellent  preservative,  particularly  for 
pulpy  and  colored  fruits.     The  commercial  formalin  is  gener- 
ally used,   in  2  or  3  per   cent  solution,   usually  the   latter 
strength.    Formalin  may  be  added  to  alcohol  (8). 

4.   Collecting  and  Preserving  Insects. 

Flying  insects  are  caught  in  a  net  made  of  mosquito-bar, 
after  the  fashion  of  the  minnow-net.  The  material  is  made  into 
a  bag  about  a  yard  deep,  and  about  a  foot  in  width  at  the  top. 
The  opening  is  fastened  upon  a  wire  hoop,  which  is  secured  to 
a  pole — as  a  broomstick.  Insects  are  killed  by  placing  them  in 
a  "cyanide-bottle."  This  is  prepared  by  placing  2  or  3  lumps 
of  cyanide  of  potassium  the  size  of  a  quail's  egg  in  a  museum- 
bottle  or  glass  jar,  covering  the  lumps  with  dry  plaster  of  Paris, 
and  then  adding  just  enough  water  to  make  the  plaster  set. 
The  fumes  of  the  poison  coming  through  the  plaster  quickly  kill 
the  insects.  Keep  the  bottle  corked.  The  cyanide  is  very 
poisonous  and  the  fumes  should  not  be  inhaled.  A  very  broad- 
mouthed  bottle  with  glass  stopple  is  necessary.  Bugs  and 
beetles  can  be  pinned  and  mounted  as  soon  as  they  are  dead. 
It  is  customary  to  pin  beetles  through  the  right  wing-cover,  and 
bugs  —  as  squash-bugs  —  through  the  triangular  space  between 
the  wings.  Butterflies,  moths,  bees,  flies,  etc.,  must  be  pressed 
to  preserve  the  wings.  This  is  done  by  placing  on  a  "setting- 
board."  This  apparatus  is  a  little  trough  with  a  crack  at  the 


COLLECTING   AND  PRESERVING.  189 

bottom.  The  sides  of  the  trough  are  made  of  thin  bits  of  board, 
3  or  4  inches  wide  and  a  foot  or  more  long.  These  sides  have 
very  little  slant.  The  crack  in  the  bottom  of  the  trough  is  left 
about  a  half -inch  wide,  and  it  is  covered  beneath  with  a  strip  of 
cork.  The  body  of  the  insect  is  now  placed  lengthwise  the 
crack,  a  pin  is  thrust  through  the  thorax,  or  middle  division  of 
the  insect,  into  the  cork,  and  the  wings  are  laid  out  on  the  sides 
of  the  trough.  The  wings  are  held  in  place  by  strips  of  card- 
board pinned  over  them.  Take  care  not  to  stick  the  pins 
through  the  wings.  In  about  two  weeks  the  insects  will  be 
dry  and  stiff. 

Insects  must  be  kept  in  tight  boxes  to  keep  other  insects 
from  devouring  them.  Cigar  boxes  are  good.  Tight  boxes 
with  glass  covers  are  generally  used  by  collectors.  Place  sheets 
of  cork  in  the  bottom  of  the  box  to  receive  the  pins.  If  insects 
attack  the  specimens,  expose  them  in  a  tight  box  to  vapors  of 
bisulphide  of  carbon  (see  Chap.  I, )  or  benzine. 

5.  Preparing  Old  Bottles  for  Specimens. 

CUTTING  GLASS  BOTTLES.  —  1.  Pass  5  or  6  strands  of  coarse 
packing-twine  round  the  bottle  on  each  side  of  the  line  where 
you  want  it  divided,  so  as  to  form  a  groove  £  inch  wide  ;  in  this 
groove  pass  one  turn  of  a  piece  of  hard-laid  white  cord,  extend 
the  two  ends,  and  fasten  to  some  support.  Saw  the  bottle  back- 
wards and  forwards  for  a  short  time  ;  after  a  minute's  friction, 
by  a  side  motion  of  the  bottle  throw  it  out  of  the  cord  into  a 
tub  of  water,  and  then  tap  on  the  side  of  the  tub  and  the 
bottom  will  fall  off. 

2.  Fill  the  bottle  the  exact  height  you  wish  it  to  be  cut,  with 
oil  of  any  kind  ;  dip,  very  gradually,  a  red-hot  iron  into  the  oil. 
The  glass  suddenly  chips  and  cracks  all  round,  then  the  upper 
surface  may  be  lifted  off  at  the  surface  of  the  oil. 

3.  For  cutting  off  bottoms  of  bottles,  make  a  slight  nick  with 
a  file,  and  then  mark  round  with  a  streak  of  ink  where  you 
want  it  to  come  off.     Make  an  iron  red-hot  and  lay  it  on  the 
nick.    This  will  cause  it  to  expand  and  crack  ;  then,  by  moving 
the  rod  round,  the  crack  will  follow. 


190          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 


6.  Perfumery. 

PERMANENT  ATTAR  OR  OTTO  OF  ROSES  (Ellwanger).  —  The 
roses  employed  should  be  just  blown,  of  the  sweetest-smelling 
kinds,  gathered  in  as  dry  a  state  as  possible.  After  each  gath- 
ering, spread  out  the  petals  on  a  sheet  of  paper  and  leave  until 
free  from  moisture  ;  then  place  a  layer  of  petals  in  a  jar, 
sprinkling  with  coarse  salt ;  then  another  layer  of  coarse  salt 
alternating  until  the  jar  is  full.  Leave  for  a  few  days,  or  until 
a  broth  is  formed  ;  then  incorporate  thoroughly  and  add  more 
petals  and  salt,  mixing  thoroughly  daily  for  a  week,  when 
fragrant  gums  and  spices  should  be  added,  such  as  benzoin, 
storax,  cassia-buds,  cinnamon,  cloves,  cardamon,  and  vanilla- 
bean.  Mix  again  and  leave  for  a  few  days,  when  add  essential 
oil  of  jasmine,  violet,  tuberose,  and  attar  of  roses,  together 
with  a  hint  of  ambergris  or  musk,  in  mixture  with  the  flower 
ottos,  to  fix  the  odor.  Spices,  such  as  cloves,  should  be  spar- 
ingly used. 

PERFUME  JAR.  —  1.  1  pound  of  dried  rose-petals  bought  at  a 
drug-store,  4  ounces  of  salt,  and  2  ounces  of  saltpeter,  on  which 
put8  drops  of  essence  of  ambergris,  6  drops  of  essence  of  lemon, 
4  drops  of  oil  of  cloves,  4  drops  of  oil  of  lavender,  and  2  drops 
of  essence  of  bergamot. 

2.  One-half  pound  of  common  salt,  £  pound  saltpeter,  \ 
ounce  storax,  £  dozen  cloves,  a  handful  of  dried  bay-leaves, 
and  another  handful  of  dried  lavender-flowers.  This  basis  will 
last  for  years,  and  petals  of  roses  and  other  fragrant  flowers 
gathered  on  dry  days  may  be  added  annually,  or  powered  ben- 
zoin, chips  of  sandal  wood,  cinnamon,  orris-root,  or  musk  may 
be  added. 

LAVENDER  BAG.  — One-half  pound  lavender-flowers,  \  ounce 
dried  thyme  and  mint,  \  ounce  ground  cloves  and  caraway,  1 
ounce  common  salt.  Tie  up  in  a  linen  bag,  which  is  hung  in  a 
wardrobe. 

Orris-root  is  a  good  medium  in  which  to  place  delicate  per- 
firnes  for  perfumery  bags. 


COLLECTING  AND   PRESERVING.  191 


7.  Labels. 

TREE  LABELS  may  be  made  of  various  kinds  of  material. 
The  commonest  and  cheapest  label  is  made  of  clean  white 
pine,  primed  with  thin  white  lead.  These  can  be  purchased 
of  dealers  in  nurserymen's  supplies.  The  ordinary  nursery 
tree  label  is  3J  inches  long. 

The  Cornell  tree  label  is  made  from  the  "package  label" 
used  by  nurserymen.  It  is  a  pine  notched  tally  6  inches  long 
and  1  \  inches  wide.  (Cost,  painted,  about  $1.30  per  thousand.) 
These  are  wired  with  heavy  stiff  wire  not  less  than  18  inches 
long,  so  that  the  loop  is  5  or  6  inches  across.  The  labels 
are  hung  on  one  of  the  lower  limbs  of  the  tree  where  they  are 
very  conspicuous.  The  ends  of  the  wire  are  hooked  together 
around  the  limb  by  means  of  pincers,  and,  being  stiff,  it  is  not 
readily  removed  by  careless  or  mischievous  persons.  The  name 
is  written  firmly  with  a  very  soft  black  lead-pencil,  and  when 
the  label  is  hung  upon  the  tree,  it  is  dipped  in  thin  white  lead, 
which  fixes  the  writing  and  preserves  it  almost  indefinitely  ; 
or  the  name  may  be  written  firmly  into  a  fresh  coat  of  white 
lead. 

Labels  made  of  small  strips  of  common  zinc  are  often  used, 
the  name  being  written  on  the  metal  with  a  lead-pencil.  The 
label  is  wound  about  a  limb,  and  it  expands  as  the  part  grows. 
The  label  is  so  inconspicuous  and  so  easily  removed  that  it  is 
unsatisfactory. 

Thick  tallies  of  lead  with  the  name  stamped  in  with  dies,  are 
very  durable. 

Thin  metal  labels  which  hang  on  a  wire  are  often  broken  or 
torn  out  at  the  eyelet  by  the  wind. 

STAKE  LABELS,  made  of  pine  or  other  soft  clear  wood,  are 
most  satisfactory  for  garden  use,  unless,  perhaps,  in  botanic 
gardens,  or  other  permanent  exhibition  grounds  where  a  more 
conspicuous  and  ornamental  label  is  wanted.  The  label  should 
be  primed  with  white  lead,  after  which  it  takes  a  permanent 
mark  from  a  medium  soft  lead-pencil.  , 


192          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

A  good  label  for  grounds  which  are  cultivated  by  horses,  and 
which  are  therefore  likely  to  be  broken  by  the  whiffletrees,  is 
a  pine  stake  2  feet  long,  3*-  inches  wide,  and  l\  inches  thick, 
sawed  to  a  taper  at  the  lower  end.  Give  them  two  coats  of  thin 
white  lead,  taking  care  not  to  pile  them  on  their  faces  whils't 
drying.  Make  the  record  with  a  soft  large  lead-pencil.  When 
the  writing  wears  off,  or  the  label  is  wanted  for  other  uses, 
plane  a  shaving  off  the  face,  paint  again  and  it  is  as  good  as  new. 

To  PRESERVE  WOODEN  LABELS.  —  Thoroughly  soak  the  pieces 
of  wood  in  a  strong  solution  of  copperas  (sulphate  of  iron)  ; 
then  lay  them,  after  they  are  dry,  in  lime-water.  This  causes 
the  formation  of  sulphate  of  lime,  a  very  insoluble  salt,  in  the 
wood. 

BLACK  INK  FOR  ZINC  LABELS.  — Verdigris,  1  ounce  ;  sal  am- 
moniac, 1  ounce  ;  lampblack,  I  ounce  ;  rain  water,  \  pint.  Mix 
in  an  earthenware  mortar  or  jar  and  put  up  in  small  bottles. 
To  be  shaken  before  use  and  used  with  a  clean  quill  pen  on 
bright  zinc. 

8.    To  Preserve  Posts  in  the  Ground. 

Dip  them  in  hot  coal-tar. 

Char  them. 

Use  the  copperas  solution  mentioned  above  for  labels. 

Into  boiled  linseed  oil  stir  pulverized  coal  until  the  mixture 
is  the  thickness  of  paint.  Apply  a  heavy  coat  to  the  post. 

Posts  may  be  kyanized  by  soaking  them  in  a  liquid  made  by 
dissolving  1  pound  of  blue  vitriol  in  20  pounds  of  water. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

RULES. 
i.  London's  Rules  for  Gardeners. 

1.  Perform  every  operation  in  the  proper  season  and  in  the 
best  manner. 

2.  Complete  every  operation  consecutively. 

3.  Never,  if  possible,  perform  one  operation  in  such  a  man- 
ner as  to  render  another  necessary. 

4.  When  called  off  from  any  operation,  leave  your  work  and 
tools  in  an  orderly  manner. 

5.  In  leaving  off  work,  make  a  temporary  finish,  and  clean 
your  tools  and  carry  them  to  the  tool  house. 

6.  Never  do  that  in  the  garden  or  hothouses,  which  can  be 
equally  well  done  in  the  reserve  ground  or  in  the  back  sheds. 

7.  Never  pass  a  weed  or  insect  without  pulling  it  up  or  taking 
it  off,  unless  time  forbid. 

8.  In  gathering  a  crop,  take  away  the  useless  as  well  as  the 
useful  parts. 

9.  Let  no  plant  ripen  seeds,  unless  they  are  wanted  for  some 
purpose,  useful  or  ornamental,  and  remove  all  parts  which  are 
in  a  state  of  decay. 

2.  Rules  of  Nomenclature. 

1.     RULES    FOR    NAMING     FRUITS,     ADOPTED     BY     THE     AMERICAN 
POMOLOGICAL    SOCIETY. 

1.  The  originator  or  introducer  (in  the  order  named)  has  the 
prior  right  to  bestow  a  name  upon  a  new  or  unnamed  fruit. 

2.  The  society  reserves  the  right,  in  case  of  long,  inappropri- 
ate, or  otherwise   objectionable  names,  to  shorten,  modify,  or 

o  193 


194          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

wholly  change  the  same  when  they  shall  occur  in  its  discussions 
or  reports  ;  and  also  to  recommend  such  names  for  general 
adoption. 

3.  The  names  of  fruit  should,  preferably,  express  as  far  as 
practicable  by  a  single  word,  the  characteristics  of  the  variety, 
the  name  of  the  originator,  or  the  place  of  its  origin.     Under  no 
ordinary  circumstances  should  more  than  a  single  word  be  em- 
ployed. 

4.  Should  the  question  of  priority  arise  between  different 
names  for  the  same  variety  of  fruit,  other  circumstances  being 
equal  the  name  first  publicly  bestowed  will  be  given  preference. 

2.  RULES  FOR  NAMING  KITCHEN-GARDEN  VEGETABLES,  ADOPTED 
BY  THE  COMMITTEE  ON  NOMENCLATURE  OF  THE  ASSOCIATION 
OF  AMERICAN  AGRICULTURAL  COLLEGES  AND  EXPERIMENT 
STATIONS  (1889). 

1.  The  name  of  a  variety  shall  consist  of  a  single  word,  or  at 
most  of  two  words.     A  phrase,   descriptive  or  otherwise,  is 
never  allowable ;  as,  Pride  of  Italy,  King  of  Mammoths,  Earliest 
of  All. 

2.  The  name  should  not  be  superlative  or  bombastic.     In 
particular,  such  epithets  as  New,  Large,  Giant,  Fine,  Selected, 
Improved,  and  the  like,  should  be  omitted.     If  the  grower  or 
dealer  has  a  superior  stock  of  a  variety,  the  fact  should  be  stated 
in  the  description  immediately  after  the  name,  rather  than  as 
a  part  of  the  name  itself  ;  as,  "  Trophy,  selected  stock." 

3.  If  a  grower  or  dealer  has  secured  a  new  select  strain  of  a 
well-known  variety,  it  shall  be  legitimate  for  him  to  use  his 
own  name  in  connection  with  the  established  name  of  the 
variety ;  as,  Smith's  Winnigstadt,  Jones's  Cardinal. 

4.  When  personal  names  are  given  to  varieties,  titles  should 
be  omitted  ;  as,  Major,  General,  etc. 

5.  The  term  ' '  hybrid ' '  should  not  be  used  except  in  those  rare 
instances  in  which  the  variety  is  known  to  be  of  hybrid  origin. 

6.  The  originator  has  the  prior  right  to  name  the  variety,  but 
the  oldest  name  which  conforms  to  these  rules  should  be  adopted. 


RULES.  195 

7.  This  committee  reserves  the  right,  in  its  own  publications, 
to  revise  objectionable  names  in  conformity  with  these  rules. 

3.     RULES    OF    THE    SOCIETY    OF    AMERICAN    FLORISTS. 

This  society  commends  (through  its  nomenclature  com- 
mittee) the  rules  adopted  by  the  American  Pomological  Society 
and  the  Station  Horticulturists  (as  given  above),  and  further 
urges  "upon  those  originating  plants  requiring  new  names,  the 
employment  of  short,  appropriate,  and  neat  vernacular  names  ; 
the  avoidance  of  misleading,  long,  high-sounding,  or  vulgar 
names,  and  the  use  of  Latinized  names  exclusively  in  con- 
nection with  species  and  natural  varieties." 

The  rules  adopted  by  the  society  are  as  follows  (1893)  : 

1.  Natural  species  and  varieties  shall  bear  the  Latin  names 
assigned  to  them   in   Nicholson's  Dictionary,  so   far  as  they 
are  named,  except  that  where  differences  exist  between  the 
Dictionary  and  Kew  Index,  the  name  adopted  by  the  latter 
shall  be  chosen.     Species  first  published  or  reinstated  subse- 
quent to  the  date  of  the  latter  (1885)  shall  be  treated  in  accord- 
ance   with    botanical    custom,   especially    that    of    the    Kew 
Gardens.     In  all  cases  where  the  application  of  this  rule  shall 
cause  the  displacement  of  a  commonly  used  and  well-known 
name,  the  latter  shall  be  added  as  a  synonym. 

2.  Florists'  varieties,  races  and  forms,  shall  be  named  in 
accordance  with  the  recommendations  of    the  nomenclature 
committee  (stated   above)  ;   but  the  greatest  conservatism   is 
counseled  in  all  changes  which  are  likely  to  cause  confusion  or 
detriment  to  legitimate  business  interests. 

4.  RULES  FOR  THE  NAMING  OF  ORCHIDS,  ADOPTED  BY  THE  COUN- 
CIL OF  THE  ROYAL  HORTICULTURAL  SOCIETY  OF  ENGLAND. 

SECTION  I.  —  Genera,  species,  well-marked  varieties,  and  natu- 
ral hybrids. 

1.  The  names  of  natural  genera,  species,  and  well-marked 
hybrids,  as  well  as  of  presumed  wild  hybrids,  shall  be  written 


196          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

so  as  to  accord  with  botanical  language  and  ways,  and  to  con- 
form with  the  laws  of  botanical  nomenclature,  as  adopted  at 
the  International  Botanical  Congress  at  Paris,  in  1867. 

2.  Exhibitors  showing,  for  the  first  time,  a  plant  under  a 
Latin  name,  shall  be  required  to  furnish  the  name  of  the 
botanist  who  has  described  the  plant. 

SECTION  II.  — Artificial  hybrids  between  genera. 

3.  Every  bigener  shall  receive   a  generic  name  in  Latin, 
formed  by  combining  the  names  of  the  parent  genera,  and  a 
specific  name  also  in  Latin,  the  sign  of  hybridity  ( x )  being 
always  added. 

SECTION  III.  —  Artificial  hybrids  between  species. 

4.  Hybrids  between  species,  raised  artificially,  shall  be  named 
in  Latin,  with  the  addition  of  the  word  "hybrid,"  or  of  the  sign 
of  hybridity  (  x  ) . 

SECTION  IV.  —  Artificial  crosses  between  varieties. 

5.  Crosses  between  varieties,  raised  artificially,  should  re- 
ceive suitable  vernacular  names. 

SECTION  V.  —  General  recommendations. 

6.  The  orchid  committee  shall  decline  to  recognize  any  un- 
authorized name,  or  any  name  that  is  deemed  unsuitable,  or  is 
not  applied  in  conformity  with  the  preceding  rules. 

7.  A  name  once  authoritatively  adopted  shall  not  be  altered, 
unless  in  case  of  material  error. 

8.  An  award  may  be  made  to  any  plant  that  is  considered 
by  the  committee  worthy  of  such  distinction,  even  though  it  be 
unnamed,  or  not  named  in  accordance  with  the  preceding  regu- 
lations, providing  that,  within  a  reasonable  time,  to  be  deter- 
mined by  the  committee,  a  proper  name  be  given.     Any  award 
made  under  the  circumstances  shall  be  suspended  until  the 
plant  has  been  properly  named. 


RULES.  197 

9.  The  operation  of  these  rules  shall  be  prospective,  not 
retrospective. 

10.  The  Council  wishes  to  impress  upon  orchid  growers  the 
desirability  of  obtaining  drawings  or  photographs  of  all  new 
and  certified  orchids,  and  of  depositing  such  dravvings  in  the 
library  of  the  society,  for  reference. 

11.  The  Council  also  desires  to  remind  cultivators  of  the 
great  importance  of  preserving  specimens  for  future  reference 
and  comparison,  and  suggests  that,  wherever  practicable,  speci- 
mens should  be  sent  for  this  purpose  to  the  Director  of  the 
Royal  Gardens,  Kew. 

5.     PARIS    CODE    OP    BOTANICAL   NOMENCLATURE. 

At  an  international  botanical  congress  held  in  Paris  in  1867, 
a  series  of  general  rules  for  the  nomenclature  of  plants  was 
adopted,  which  has  been  more  or  less  closely  followed  by  bota- 
nists until  the  present  time.  The  code  assumes  that  botanical 
names,  like  other  language,  are  determined  by  custom  or  gen- 
eral consensus  of  opinion.  It  also  asserts  that  the  name  of 
a  species  consists  of  two  inseparable  parts,  the  generic  and 
specific,  and  that  the  author  of  the  combination  of  these  two, 
rather  than  the  author  of  either  part  separately,  should  be 
quoted  as  the  authority  for  the  complete  name  of  the  species. 
In  opposition  to  these  assertions,  some  botanists  now  contend 
(see  Caption  6)  that  the  first  single  name  applied  to  a  species 
should  always  follow  that  species,  in  whatever  genus  it  may  be 
placed,  and  that  the  citation  of  authority  following  any  combi- 
nation should  comprise  the  name  of  the  person  who  first  used 
the  specific  appellation  and  also  the  name  of  the  person  who 
placed  the  given  generic  and  specific  appellations  together,  in 
case  a  subsequent  combination  has  occurred.  The  Paris  Code 
comprises  68  articles,  of  which  only  the  following  are  of  direct 
interest  here : 

ARTICLE  2.  The  rules  of  nomenclature  should  neither  be 
arbitrary,  nor  imposed  by  authority.  They  must  be  founded  on 
considerations  clear  and  forcible  enough  for  every  one  to  com- 
prehend and  be  disposed  to  accept. 


198          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

ART.  15.  Each  natural  group  of  plants  can  bear  in  science 
but  one  valid  designation,  namely,  the  most  ancient,  whether 
adopted  or  given  by  Linnseus,  or  since  Linnaeus,  provided  it  be 
consistent  with  the  essential  rules  of  nomenclature.  [The  ex- 
act work  of  Linnseus  from  which  names  may  start  is  not  desig- 
nated.] 

ART.  31.  All  species,  even  those  that  singly  constitute  a 
genus,  are  designated  by  the  name  of  the  genus  to  which  they 
belong,  followed  by  a  name  termed  specific,  more  commonly  of 
the  adjective  kind. 

ART.  35.  No  two  species  of  the  same  genus  can  bear  the  same 
specific  name,  but  the  same  specific  name  may  be  given  in 
several  genera. 

ART.  37.  Hybrids  whose  origin  has  been  experimentally  dem- 
onstrated are  designated  by  the  generic  name,  to  which  is 
added  a  combination  of  the  specific  names  of  the  two  species 
from  which  they  are  derived,  the  name  of  the  species  that 
has  supplied  the  pollen  being  placed  first  with  final  i  or 
o,  and  that  of  the  species  that  has  supplied  the  ovulum  com- 
ing next  with  a  hyphen  between  (Amaryllis  vittato-regince, 
for  the  Amaryllis  proceeding  from  A.  regince  fertilized  by  A. 
vittata. 

Hybrids  of  doubtful  origin  are  named  in  the  same  manner  as 
species.  They  are  distinguished  by  the  absence  of  a  number  (in 
descriptive  works),  and  by  the  sign  x  being  prefixed  to  the 
generic  name  (x  Salix  capreola,  Kern). 

ART.  38.  Names  of  sub-species  and  varieties  are  formed  in 
the  same  way  as  specific  names,  and  are  added  to  them  accord- 
ing to  relative  value,  beginning  by  those  of  the  highest  rank. 
Half-breeds  (mules  of  florists)  of  doubtful  origin  are  named 
and  ranked  in  the  same  manner. 

Sub-varieties,  variations,  and  sub-variations  of  uncultivated 
plants  may  receive  names  analogous  to  the  foregoing,  or  merely 
numbers  or  letters,  for  facilitating  their  arrangement. 

ART.  39.  Half-breeds  (mules  of  florists)  of  undoubted  origin 
are  designated  by  a  combination  of  the  two  names  of  the 
sub-species,  varieties,  sub-varieties,  etc.,  that  have  given  birth 


RULES.  199 

to  them,  the  same  rules  being  observed  as  in  the  case  of 
hybrids. 

ART.  40.  Seedlings,  half-breeds  of  uncertain  origin,  and 
sports  should  receive  from  horticulturists  fancy  names  in 
common  language,  as  distinct  as  possible  from  the  Latin 
names  of  species  or  varieties.  When  they  can  be  traced 
back  to  a  botanical  species,  sub-species,  or  variety,  this  is 
indicated  by  a  succession  of  names  (Pelargonium  zonale, 
Mrs.  Pollock). 

ART.  41.  The  date  of  a  name  or  of  a  combination  of  names 
is  that  of  its  actual  and  irrevocable  publication. 

ART.  42.  Publication  consists  in  the  sale  or  the  distribution 
among  the  public  of  printed  matter,  plates,  or  autographs.  It 
consists,  likewise,  in  the  sale  or  the  distribution,  among  the 
leading  public  collections,  of  numbered  specimens,  accompanied 
by  printed  or  autograph  tickets,  bearing  the  date  of  the  sale  or 
distribution. 

ART.  48.  For  the  indication  of  the  name  or  names  of  any 
group  to  be  accurate  and  complete,  it  is  necessary  to  quote  the 
author  who  first  published  the  name  or  combination  of  names 
in  question. 

ART.  51.  When  a  group  is  moved,  without  alteration  of 
name,  to  a  higher  or  lower  rank  than  that  which  it  held  before, 
the  change  is  considered  equivalent  to  the  creation  of  an  entirely 
new  group,  and  the  author  who  has  effected  the  change  is  the 
one  to  be  quoted. 

ART.  55.  In  case  two  or  more  groups  of  the  same  nature  are 
united  into  one,  the  name  of  the  oldest  is  preserved.  If  the 
names  are  of  the  same  date,  the  author  chooses. 

ART.  59.  Nobody  is  authorized  to  change  a  name  because  it 
is  badly  chosen  or  disagreeable,  or  another  is  preferable  or 
better  known,  or  for  any  other  motive  either  contes  table  or  of 
little  import. 

ART.  68.  Every  friend  of  science  ought  to  be  opposed  to  the 
introduction  into  a  modern  language  of  names  of  plants  that 
are  not  already  there,  unless  they  are  derived  from  a  Latin 
botanical  name  that  has  undergone  but  a  slight  alteration. 


200          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 


6.  RULES  FOR  BOTANICAL  NOMENCLATURE  ADOPTED  BY  THE 
BOTANICAL  CLUB  OF  THE  AMERICAN  ASSOCIATION  FOR  THE 
ADVANCEMENT  OF  SCIENCE. 

(Combined  Rules  of  Rochester  and  Madison  Meetings.) 

The  Paris  Code  of  1867  is  adopted  except  where  it  conflicts 
with  the  following : 

The  Law  of  Priority. — Priority  of  publication  is  to  be  re- 
garded as  the  fundamental  principle  of  botanical  nomen- 
clature. 

Beginning  of  Botanical  Nomenclature.  —  The  botanical 
nomenclature  of  both  genera  and  species  is  to  begin  with  the 
publication  of  the  first  edition  of  Linnaeus'  "  Species  Planta- 
rum,"  in  1753. 

Stability  of  Specific  Names.  —  In  the  transfer  of  a  species  to 
a  genus  other  than  the  one  under  which  it  was  first  published, 
the  original  specific  name  is  to  be  retained. 

Precedence  of  Publication.  —  In  determining  the  name  of  a 
genus  or  species  to  which  two  or  more  names  have  been  given 
by  an  author  in  the  same  volume,  or  on  the  same  page  of  a 
volume,  precedence  shall  decide. 

Homonyms.  —  The  publication  of  a  generic  name  or  a 
binomial  invalidates  the  use  of  the  same  name  for  any  subse- 
quently published  genus  or  species  respectively. 

Publication  of  Genera.  —  Publication  of  a  genus  consists 
only  (1)  in  the  distribution  of  a  printed  description  of  the 
genus  named ;  (2)  in  the  publication  of  the  name  of  the  genus 
and  the  citation  of  one  or  more  previously  published  species  as 
examples  of  types  of  the  genus,  with  or  without  diagnosis. 

Publication  of  Species.  —  Publication  of  a  species  consists 
only  (1)  in  the  distribution  of  a  printed  description  of  the 
species  named ;  (2)  in  the  publishing  of  a  binomial  with  refer- 
ence to  a  previously  published  species  as  a  type. 

Similar  Generic  Names.  —  Similar  generic  names  are  not  to 
be  rejected  on  account  of  slight  differences,  except  in  the  spell- 
ing of  the  same  word  ;  for  example,  Apios  and  Apium  are  to  be 


RULES.  201 

retained,  but  of  Epidendrum  and  Epidendron,  Asterocarpus  and 
Astrocarpus,  the  latter  is  to  be  rejected. 

Citation  of  Authorities.  —  In  the  case  of  a  species  which  has 
been  transferred  from  one  genus  to  another,  the  original  author 
must  always  be  cited  in  parenthesis,  followed  by  the  author  of 
the  new  binomial. 

To  this  code  the  Committee  on  Nomenclature  of  the  Botanical 
Club  adds  the  following  working  rules  : 

1.  That  the  original  name  is  to  be  maintained,  whether  pub- 
lished as  a  species,  sub-species,  or  variety. 

2.  That  varieties  are  to  be  written  as  trinomials. 

3.  That  specific  or  varietal  names  derived  from  persons  or 
places,  or  used  as  the  genitive  of  generic  names  or  substantives, 
are  to  be  printed  with  a  capital  initial  letter. 

4.  That  no  comma  is  to  be  inserted  between  the  specific  or 
varietal  name  and  the  name  of  the  author  cited. 

3.    Rules  for  Exhibition. 

In  order  to  guide  societies  in  the  formation  of  laws  governing 
the  exhibition  of  horticultural  products,  the  codes  of  three 
prominent  societies  are  here  inserted  as  samples. 

1.       AMERICAN    POMOLOGICAL    SOCIETY    RULES. 

For  Exhibitors. 

1.  A  plate  of  fruit  must  contain  six  specimens  —  no  more,  no 
less  —  except  in  the  case  of  single  varieties  not  included  in  col- 
lections. 

2.  To  insure  examination  by  the  proper  committees,  all  fruits 
must  be  correctly  and  distinctly  labeled,  and  placed  upon  the 
tables  during  the  first  day  of  the  exhibition. 

3.  The  duplication  of  varieties  in  a  collection  will  not  be  per- 
mitted. 

4.  In  all  cases  of  fruits  intended  to  be  examined  and  reported 
by  committees,  the  name  of  the  exhibitor,  together  with  a  com- 
plete list  of  the  varieties  exhibited  by  him,  must  be  delivered  to 


202          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

the  secretary  of  the  society  on  or  before  the  first  day  of  the 
exhibition. 

5.  The  exhibitor  will  receive  from  the  secretary  an  entry- 
card,  which  must  be  placed  with  the  exhibit,  when  arranged  for 
exhibition,  for  the  guidance  of  committees. 

6.  All  articles  placed  upon  the  tables  for  exhibition  must 
remain  in  charge  of  the  society  till  the  close  of  the  exhibition, 
to  be  removed  sooner  only  upon  express  permission  of  the  per- 
son or  persons  in  charge. 

7.  Fruits  or  other  articles  intended  for  testing,  or  to  be  given 
away  to  visitors,  spectators,  or  others,  will  be  assigned  a  sepa- 
rate hall,  room,  or  tent,  in  which  they  may  be  dispensed  at  the 
pleasure  of  the  exhibitor,  who  will  not,  however,  be  permitted  to 
sell  and  deliver  articles  therein,  or  to  call  attention  to  them  in  a 
boisterous  or  disorderly  manner. 

For  the  Guidance  of  Examining  and  Awarding  Committees. 

1.  In  estimating  the  comparative  values  of  collections  of 
fruits,  committees  are  instructed  to  base  such  estimates  strictly 
upon  the  varieties  in  such  collections  which  shall  have  been 
correctly  named  by  the  exhibitor  prior  to  action  thereon  by  the 
committee  on  nomenclature. 

2.  In  instituting  such  comparison  of  value,  committees  are 
instructed  to  consider :  1st,  the  values  of  the  varieties  for  the 
purposes  to  which  they  may  be  adapted  ;  2d,  the  color,  size,  and 
evenness  of  the  specimens ;  3d,  their  freedom  from  the  marks 
of  insects  and  from  other  blemishes  ;  4th,  the  apparent  careful- 
ness in  handling,  and  the  taste  displayed  in  the  arrangement  of 
the  exhibit. 

2.       MASSACHUSETTS    HORTICULTURAL   SOCIETY    RULES. 

Special  Eules  of  the  Fruit  Committee.  —  1.  All  collections 
and  single  dishes  of  fruit  offered  for  prizes  at  any  exhibition 
must  have  marked  upon  the  cards  the  numbers  of  the  prizes  for 
which  they  are  offered. 

2.   All  fruits  offered  for  premiums  must  be  correctly  named. 


RULES.  203 

Indefinite  appellations,  such  as  "  Pippin,"  "Sweeting,"  "Green- 
ing," etc.,  will  not  be  considered  as  names. 

3.  All  fruits  offered  for  premiums  must  be  composed  of 
exactly  the  number  of  specimens  or  quantity  named  in  the 
schedule.    A  "dish"  of  apples,  pears,  peaches,  plums,  nectar- 
ines, quinces,  figs,  apricots,  etc.,  is  understood  to  contain  twelve 
specimens,  and  this  number  will  be  required  of  all  fruits  when 
not  otherwise  specified. 

4.  The  whole  quantity  required  of  any  one  variety  of  fruit 
must  be  shown  in  a  single  dish  or  basket. 

5.  Contributors  of  fruits  for  exhibitions  or  prizes  must  present 
the  same  in  the  society's  dishes.   All  small  fruits  must  be  shown 
in  baskets,  not  more  than  an  inch  and  three-quarters  in  depth, 
which  will  be  furnished  to  the  exhibitors  by  the  superintendent, 
at  cost.     Market-baskets  will  not  be  allowed  on  the  tables. 

6.  No  person  can  compete  for  more  than  one  prize  with  the 
same  variety  or  varieties  of  fruit,  except  that  a  single  dish  may 
be  of  the  same  variety  —  but  not  the  same  specimens  —  as  one 
of  a  collection ;  and  also  that  the  same  variety  —  but  not  the 
same  specimens  —  may  compete  for  both  special  and  regular 
prizes. 

7.  Grapes  grown  on  girdled  vines  cannot  compete  for  a 
premium. 

8.  All  fruits  offered  for  prizes  [exceptions  noted],  and  those 
for  foreign  grapes  must  be  of  outdoor  culture. 

The  Fruit  Committee,  in  making  its  awards,  will  consider 
the  flavor,  beauty,  and  size  of  the  specimens,  comparing  each  of 
these  properties  with  a  fair  standard  of  the  variety.  The 
adaptation  of  the  variety,  to  general  cultivation  will  also  be 
taken  into  account.  Other  things  being  equal,  specimens  most 
nearly  in  perfection  as  regards  ripeness  will  have  the  preference. 

Special  Rules  of  the  Vegetable  Committee.  —  1.  The  speci- 
mens offered  must  be  well-grown,  and  placed  on  the  tables 
clean,  correctly  labeled,  and  fully  complying  with  the  Rules  and 
Regulations  of  the  society. 

2.  Special  gratuities  will  be  awarded  for  well-grown  varieties 
from  under  glass,  previous  to  the  opening  exhibition. 


204 


8.  All  vegetables  offered  for  premiums  must  be  composed  of 
exactly  the  number  of  specimens  or  quantity  named  in  the 
schedule. 

4.  All  vegetables  offered  for  premiums  at  any  exhibition  must 
have  marked  upon  the  cards  the  numbers  of  the  prizes  for  which 
they  are  offered. 

5.  Prizes  will  not  be  awarded  when  the  articles  are  judged 
unworthy. . 

6.  Non-compliance  with  the  rules  will  cause  the  rejection  of 
the  articles  offered  for  premium. 

Special  Eules  of  the  Flower  Committee.  —  1.  All  named 
varieties  of  plants  or  flowers  exhibited  for  premiums  must  have 
the  name  legibly  and  correctly  written  on  stiff  card,  wood,  or 
some  other  permanent  substance ;  and  each  separate  plant  or 
flower  must  have  its  name  attached. 

2.  All  plants,  flowers,  bouquets,  designs,  etc.,  offered  for 
prizes  at  any  exhibition,  must  have  marked  upon  the  cards  the 
numbers  of  the  prizes  for  ivhich  they  are  offered. 

3.  Plants  in  pots,  to  be  entitled  to  prizes,  must  evince  skillful 
culture  in  the  profusion  of  bloom,  and  the  beauty,  symmetry, 
and  vigor  of  the  specimens. 

4.  All  exhibitors  not  strictly  complying  with  the  above  rules 
will  be  excluded  from  competition  for  premiums. 

5.  No  gratuities  will  be  awarded  on  other  than  regular  prize 
days,  except  for  objects  of  special  merit. 

3.     MICHIGAN   HORTICULTURAL   SOCIETY    RULES. 

For  Exhibitors.  —  Entries  may  be  made  for  exhibition  with- 
out competition;  and,  if  worthy,  the  awarding  committee  is 
expected  to  notice  them  properly  in  its  reports. 

No  article  entered  for  competition  in  one  class  will  be  per- 
mitted to  compete  for  a  premium  in  any  other,  except  as  here- 
inafter expressly  provided. 

Each  entry  of  collection  of  fruits  must  be  accompanied  by  a 
correct  list  of  the  varieties  of  each  class  of  fruits,  named  in  the 
order  of  their  maturity  as  nearly  as  may  be.  No  premiums 
will  be  awarded  in  the  absence  of  such  list. 


RULES.  205 

Fruits  will  be  valued  by  committees  according  to  their  adapta- 
tion to  the  requirements  under  which  they  are  entered.  A 
really  superior  dessert  fruit,  if  entered  in  a  market  collection, 
can  only  receive  credit  for  its  value  for  the  market,  as  given  in 
the  society's  catalogue  ;  and,  vice  versa,  market  varieties  found 
in  a  dessert  or  family  collection  must  be  adjudged  by  their 
proper  value  for  family  purposes. 

A  plate  of  fruit,  unless  otherwise  specified,  must  contain  five 
specimens  —  no  more,  no  less.  Of  those  usually  designated 
"  small  fruits,"  the  exhibit  must  be  one  pint  of  each  variety. 
Of  crab-apples  and  plums,  one  dozen  of  each  variety.  Of  dried 
fruits,  one  quart  of  each  separate  variety  or  article.  Jellies, 
canned,  pickled,  and  preserved  fruits  may  be  entered  and  shown 
in  glass  vessels  of  such  character  and  capacity  as  are  commonly 
employed  for  family  or  market  purposes. 

Flowers,  plants,  evergreens,  and  such  other  articles  as  the 
fancy  of  the  exhibitor  may  suggest,  may  be  freely  employed  in 
the  ornamentation  of  exhibits,  in  any  manner  that  shall  not 
essentially  interfere  with  the  examinations  of  committees  or 
the  general  designs  of  decoration  ;  and  full  weight  will  be  given 
to  such  ornamentation  by  the  awarding  committees  in  render- 
ing their  awards. 

The  entry-card  furnished  by  the  secretary,  specifying  the 
class  and  number  of  the  entry,  must  in  all  cases  be  placed  in 
connection  with  the  articles  to  which  it  appertains,  as  a  guide 
to  committees. 

Articles  when  entered,  named,  and  arranged  for  exhibition 
will  thenceforth  be  strictly  under  the  control  of  the  officers  in 
charge  of  the  exhibition,  and  neither  exhibitors  nor  spectators 
will  be  permitted  to  handle  them,  except  by  permission  of  the 
proper  officer. 

Any  exhibitor  having  been  awarded  a  premium  upon  an 
article,  and  removing  the  same  prior  to  the  close  of  the  exhi- 
bition, without  permission  of  the  officer  in  charge,  will  by  so 
doing  forfeit  his  right  to  such  premium. 

The  name  of  the  fruit  should  in  no  case  appear  on  the  entry- 
card,  except  only  in  the  case  of  single  plates  or  other  single  articles. 


206          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

Entry-cards,  name-cards,  and  the  cards  of  the  committee  on 
nomenclature,  should,  for  the  convenience  of  awarding  commit- 
tees and  other  officers,  be  each  of  a  different  color,  or  otherwise 
printed  in  different-colored  inks. 

Exhibitors  will  not  be  permitted  to  sell  and  deliver  the  arti- 
cles they  may  have  entered  for  exhibition,  or  to  bring  fruit  or 
any  other  article  for  the  purpose  of  sale,  on  a  penalty  of  for- 
feiture of  all  premiums,  but  such  articles  must  remain  in  charge 
of  the  officers  until  the  close  of  the  exhibition. 

Any  exhibitor  interfering  with  awarding  committees  while  in 
discharge  of  their  duties,  will  be  held,  by  so  doing,  to  have  for- 
feited all  premiums. 

For  Awarding  Committees.  —  1.  The  division  superintendent 
will  be  a  member  and  clerk  of  the  awarding  committee  for  his 
division.  The  remaining  members  of  each  committee  will  be 
selected  with  great  care  from  the  best  horticulturists  of  this 
and  neighboring  states.  The  names  of  such  persons  will  not  be 
made  public  until  the  time  of  the  fair. 

2.  Members   of  the  awarding  committee   are  requested  to 
report  to  the  president,  at  the  secretary's  office,  on  or  before 
noon  of  the  second  day  of  the  fair,  that  the  places  of  those 
failing  to  report  may  be  supplied. 

3.  The  president  is  chairman  of  the  committee  on  nomencla- 
ture;  but  to  expedite  the  business  of  correction  the  superin- 
tendent of  each  division  will  correct  the  nomenclature  of  his 
division,  appealing  to  the  chairman  in  all  doubtful  cases,  and 
attaching  the  committee's  card  in  all  cases  in  which  corrections 
are  made. 

4.  No  exhibitor  will  be  permitted  to  act  on  a  committee  in  a 
class  in  which  he  shall  exhibit  for  premiums. 

5.  Members  of  the  awarding  committee  are  requested  to 
report  to  the  president,  at  the  secretary's  office,  at  1  o'clock  P.M., 
on  Thursday,  when  they  will  receive  their  committee  books, 
together  with  such  explanations  and  instructions  as  may  at  the 
time  seem  needful. 

6.  Upon  conclusion  of  their  labors,  not  later  than  the  after- 
noon of  Friday,  awarding  committees  will  deliver  their  reports 


RULES.  207 

to  the  president,  who  will  examine  them,  and  in  case  of  insuffi- 
ciency or  omission,  will  return  them  with  instructions.  When 
accepted  by  the  president,  they  will  be  delivered  to  the  secretary. 

7.  When  an  exhibit  is  not  deemed  worthy  of  a  premium,  the 
committee  will  withhold  the  award. 

8.  A  majority  of  an  awarding  committee,  when  present,  shall 
constitute  a  quorum,  and  of  those  present,  the  first  on  the  list 
shall  act  as  chairman,  unless  the  committee  shall  arrange  other- 
wise. 

9.  Awarding  committees,    in    estimating    the    comparative 
values  of  exhibits,  are  instructed  to  base  such  estimates  strictly 
upon  the  varieties  in  such  collections  that  shall  be  correctly 
labeled  by  the  exhibitors  prior  to  the  corrections  of  the  com- 
mittee on  nomenclature. 

10.  In  awarding  premiums  upon  any  and  all  exhibits  of  fruits, 
committees  will  exclude  any  and  all  unlabeled  and  incorrectly 
labeled  specimens,  as  well  as  duplicates,  and  consider  :  1st,  the 
value  of  the  varieties  for  the  required  purpose,  as  given  in  the 
society's  Catalogue  of  Fruits ;  2d,  the  color,  size,  and  evenness 
of  the  specimens  ;  3d,  their  freedom  from  the  marks  of  insects 
and  other  blemishes  ;  4th,  the  apparent  carefulness  in  handling 
and  the  tastefulness  of  the  exhibit,  recollecting  that  the  grada- 
tions of  the  catalogue  call  for  perfect  specimens.    These  grada- 
tions should,  therefore,  be  correspondingly  lowered  in  case  of 
deficiencies  or  imperfections.    A  copy  of  the  catalogue  will,  for 
this  purpose,  be  furnished  to  each  committee.    In  grading  col- 
lections entered  for  family  purposes,  the  dessert  and  culinary 
sub-columns  should  be  consulted,  and  the  gradation  expressing 
the  highest  value  taken.    For  market,  the  gradations  of  the 
market  sub-column  only  should  be  employed. 

11.  In  the  case  of  fruits  not  named  in  the  catalogue,  for  the 
dessert,  committees  should  consider :  1st,  quality  ;  2d,  beauty  ; 
3d,  size.     For  culinary  uses  :  1st,  flavor ;  2d,  texture ;  3d,  size. 
For  market :  1st,  productiveness;  2d,  color;  3d,  handling  qual- 
ities ;  4th,  suitable,  even  size. 

12.  The  true  and  legitimate  purpose  of  the  premiums  offered 
is  to  draw  out  the  views  of  both  exhibitors  and  committees 


208          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

respecting  the  relative  values,  for  the  purposes  specified,  of  the 
varieties  included  in  the  exhibits. 

13.  The  society  desires  to  encourage  the  planting  of  only  a 
sufficiently  large  variety  of  sorts  for  the  desired  purpose.    Hence 
it  is  important  that  the  committee,  in  their  reports,  specify,  in 
the  order  of  their  value,  the  varieties  upon  which  the  determi- 
nation of  their  awards  is  based. 

14.  Useful  and  valuable  varieties  only  are  expected  to  influ- 
ence awards  ;  while  indifferent  sorts,  even  though  large,  showy, 
and  attractive,  should  not  for  these  reasons  alone  be  held  to  add 
to  the  value  of  an  exhibit,  except,  possibly,  as  a  means  of 
education. 

15.  An  important  object  of  the  society  is  to  collect  valuable 
information  of  a  pomological  character.     Committees  are  there- 
fore requested  to  gather  all  the  information  possible  from  the 
exhibitors  in  their  classes,  and  to  make  their  reports  as  full  as 
time  and  circumstances  will  permit. 

16.  The  society  desires  to  foster  a  free  exercise  by  exhibitors 
of  the  principles  of  correct  taste  in  the  arrangement,  display, 
and  ornamentation  of  their  exhibits.    To  this  end,  committees 
will  give  all  reasonable  and  proper  consideration  to  particulars  of 
this  character. 

4.     REGISTRATION   OF   FLOWERS. 

Three  societies  now  register  new  varieties  of  plants  in  this 
country:  American  Chrysanthemum  Society,  American  Car- 
nation Society,  and  American  Rose  Society. 

4.   Scales  of  Points  for  Judging  Fruits  and  Flowers. 

1.  WORLD'S  FAIR  SCALE  FOR  POMACEOUS  FRUITS  (apples, 
pears,  quinces).  —  The  following  points  were  considered  by  the 
judges  of  pome  fruits  at  the  World's  Fair,  1893 :  Adaptability, 
size,  form,  color,  evenness,  blemishes,  handling  (i.e.,  how  the 
specimens  have  been  handled),  maturity,  arrangement,  quantity. 

WORLD'S  FAIR  SCALE  FOR  STONE  FRUITS. — Size,  form, 
color,  tissue,  pit  or  seeds,  juice,  sweet  or  dessert,  acid  or  cook- 
ing, maturity,  flavor. 


RULES.  209 

2.  CANADIAN    SCORE    CARDS,    adopted    by    Ontario    Fruit 
Growers'  Association  (Woolverton)  : 

Plates  of  Apples  and  Pears.  —  Form,  10  ;  size,  10  ;  color,  10  ; 
freedom  from  blemishes,  20  ;  uniformity,  20  ;  quality,  30. 

General  Collections  of  Apples  and  Pears. — Form,  1 ;  size,  2  : 
color,  2  ;  freedom  from  blemishes,  3  ;  uniformity,  2. 

Dessert  Collections  of  Apples  and  Pears.  —  Form,  2  ;  size,  1 ; 
color,  2  ;  clearness,  3  ;  uniformity,  2. 

Cooking  Collections  of  Apples  and  Pears.  —  Perfection  of 
form,  1 ;  size,  3 ;  color,  1  ;  uniformity,  2 ;  freedom  from 
blemishes,  3. 

Plates  of  Grapes.  —  Flavor,  30;  form  of  bunch,  10  ;  size  of 
bunch,  15;  size  of  berry,  15;  color,  10;  firmness,  5;  bloom,  5  ; 
freedom  from  blemishes,  10. 

Collections  of  Grapes.  —  Flavor,  3 ;  form  of  bunch,  1 ;  size 
of  bunch,  1| ;  size  of  berry,  1| ;  color,  1  ;  firmness,  \ ;  bloom,  ^ ; 
freedom  from  blemishes,  1. 

3.  TOMATO  (Bailey). — Score  of  a  good  variety:    Vigor  of 
plant,  5 ;  earliness,  10 ;  color  of  fruit,  5 ;  solidity,  20  ;  shape 
of  fruit,  20 ;   size,  10  ;   flavor,  5  ;    cooking  qualities,  5 ;   pro- 
ductiveness, 20.  — 100. 

4.     CALIFORNIA    CITROUS    SCALE    ADOPTED  BY   CALIFORNIA   STATE 
BOARD   OF   HORTICULTURE. 

Oranges. 

The  points  to  be  considered  are :  Size,  form,  color,  peel, 
weight,  fiber,  grain,  seed,  taste ;  to  be  considered  in  order 
named. 

Counts  (credits  —  points)  to  be  units  and  tenths  thereof, 
expressed  decimally.  Possible  total  of  same  to  equal  100. 

1.   SIZE,  0  TO  10  (COUNTS). 

Standards. — Large,  126's,  3J  inches  diameter;  medium, 
176's,  2|  inches  diameter;  small,  226's,  2|  inches  diameter; 
Tangerines,  etc.,  2}  inches  diameter. 


210          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

Three-eighths  inch  excess  of  standard  allowed  (without  dis- 
count) to  "medium"  and  "small"  fruit;  £  inch  ditto  to 
"  large."  One  unit  discount  for  each  deficiency  in  any  size. 

2.   FORM,  0  TO  5  (COUNTS). 

Standards.  —  Round,  oval,  ovate,  pyriform. 

Discounts  for  lack  of  symmetry  and  for  form  blemishes. 
Navel  marks  not  to  be  discounted,  except  when  of  abnormal 
size  or  of  bad  form. 

3.    COLOR,  0  TO  15. 

Subdivisions.— Bloom,  0  to  2;  of  peel,  0  to  10;  of  flesh,  0  to  3. 

Standard.  — Bloom  to  be  perceptible,  and  to  be  discounted 
according  to  degree  of  deficiency,  or  of  injury  thereto  ;  peel  to 
be  of  rich,  deep  orange  color,  in  natural  condition,  and  to  be 
discounted  according  to  degree  of  deviation  therefrom  —  one  or 
more  points.  Rust,  scale,  and  smut  to  be  discounted  5  to  10 
points,  and  fruit  that  gives  visible  evidence  of  having  been 
cleaned  of  the  same  to  be  subject  to  equal  penalty.  Also  peel 
that  has  been  rubbed  or  "polished,"  giving  gloss  at  expense  of 
breaking  or  pressing  the  oil  cells,  to  suffer  some  discount. 
Flesh  to  be  rich,  clear,  and  uniform  in  any  of  the  shades 
common  to  fine  fruit. 

(Omit  consideration  of  "  Flesh  Color"  until  after  concluding 
Division  5,  "Peel.") 

4.    WEIGHT,  0  TO  10. 

Standard.  —  Specific  gravity  1  (equal  to  that  of  water)  with 
buoyancy  of  |  ounces  allowed  to  "large"  fruit;  £  ounce  ditto 
to  "medium,"  and  £  ounce  ditto  to  "small,"  all  without 
discount. 

One  point  to  be  discounted  for  first  £  ounce  of  buoyancy  in 
excess  of  allowance,  and  thereafter  2  points  for  each  additional 
£  ounce. 

NOTE.  —  Buoyancy  may  be  easily  determined  by  clasping 
apothecaries'  weights  to  fruit  with  light  rubber  elastics,  and 
then  placing  in  water. 


RULES.  211 


5.  PEEL,  0  TO  10. 

Subdivisions.  — Finish,  0  to  3 ;  protective  quality,  0  to  7. 

Standards.  —  Of  finish,  smoothness  and  uniformity  of  surface 
and  pleasant  touch ;  protective  quality,  firm  and  elastic  texture ; 
abundant,  compact,  and  unbroken  oil  cells ;  and  J  to  T3^  inch 
thickness. 

Discount  1  point  for  first  ^  inch  above  maximum  or  below 
minimum,  and  2  points  for  second  ditto  —  provided  that  for  too 
long-picked  and  fully  "cured"  oranges  the  minimum  shall  be 
lowered  to  -£%  inch  ;  and  that  to  fresh-picked  and  to  slightly 
"cured  "  " large  "  fruit  the  maximum  shall  be  raised  to  £  inch. 

Breaking  of  oil  cells,  abrasions  of  peel,  and  drying  of  same, 
to  be  subject  to  1  to  10  discounts  according  to  degree. 

(Here  consider  "Color  of  Flesh."  —  See  Division  3.) 

6.  FIBER,  0  TO  8. 

Standards.  —  Septa  delicate  and  translucent ;  maximum 
diameter  of  core  T\  inch  in  "large"  fruit,  and  |  ditto  in 
others. 

7.  GRAIN,  0  TO  4. 

Standards.  —  Fineness,  firmness,  compactness. 

8.  SEED,  0  TO  8. 

Standard. — Absence  of. 

Discount  1  point  for  each  of  first  3  seeds ;  ditto  thereafter 
2  point  for  each  additional. 

Each  rudiment  considered  as  a  seed  if  any  growth  has  been 
developed  ;  otherwise  allowed  without  discount. 

9.    TASTE,  0  TO  30. 

Subdivisions.  — Sweetness,  0  to  10  ;  citrous  quality,  0  to  10  ; 
aroma,  0  to  10. 

Standards.  —  Clearness  and  definability  of  elements  ;  sweet- 
ness rich,  delicate  rather  than  heavy ;  citrous  quality  pro- 
nounced ;  aroma  pervasive  and  agreeable. 

Deficiency  or  absence  to  be  cause  for  discounts  against  any 


212          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

element,  and  excess  to  be  like  cause  against  sweetness,  and 
against  acid  in  citrous  quality. 

Staleness  and  flavors  of  age  or  of  decay  to  be  discounted 
from  the  aggregate  of  points  in  this  division. 

Lemons. 

Size,  form,  color,  weight,  peel,  fiber,  grain,  seed,  taste. 
Rules  of  counts  and  discounts  as  in  scale  for  oranges. 
Total  of  possible  counts  (points),  100. 

1.  SIZE,  0  TO  7. 

Standards. — Large,  250's,  2 f  inches  in  diameter;  medium, 
300's,  2 1  inches  diameter  ;  small,  360's,  If  inches  diameter. 

All  sizes  between  250's  and  300's  allowed. 

Larger  fruit  to  be  discounted  1  point  for  each  \  inch  in 
excess.  Smaller  to  be  discounted  1  point  for  400's  (If  inches), 
and  4  points  for  450's  (1£  inches). 

2.  FORM,  0  TO  2. 

Standard.  —  Oblong,  with  allowance  of  well-formed  points 
at  stem  and  tip.  Symmetry  required. 

3.   COLOR,  0  TO  10. 

Standard.  —  Bright,  clear  lemon. 

Discounts  according  to  degree  for  green  splashes,  dashes  of 
bronze,  or  deep  shades  or  for  sunburn. 

Rust,  scale,  and  smut,  with  fruit  that  gives  evidence  of  having 
been  cleaned  of  the  same,  to  be  discounted  5  to  10  counts. 

Rubbing  or  dusting,  if  heavy  enough  to  press  oil  from  the 
cells,  to  be  causes  for  discount. 

4.    WEIGHT,  0  TO  10. 

Standard.  —  Specific  gravity  1  (equal  to  that  of  water),  with 
buoyancy  of  \  ounce  allowed  to  "large"  lemons,  and  \  ounce 
to  "  medium  and  small,"  all  without  discount. 

One  point  to  be  discounted  for  first  \  ounce  excess  of  allow- 
ance, and  2  for  each  \  ounce  thereafter. 


RULES.  213 

5.  PEEL,  0  TO  10. 

Subdivisions.  —  Finish,  0  to  3  ;  protective  quality,  0  to  7. 

Standard.  —  For  protective  quality  to  be  strong,  elastic,  and 
reasonably  firm  texture  ;  abundant,  compact,  and  unbroken  oil 
cells,  and  thickness  of  •£%  to  T\  inch. 

To  be  discounted  2  counts  for  first  ^  inch  below  minimum, 
and  5  counts  for  second  ditto  ;  and  1  count  for  first  ^  above 
maximum,  and  2  for  each  succeeding  ditto. 

Fresh  picked  lemons  not  allowed. 

6.  FIBER,  0  TO  8. 

Standard.  —  Septa  delicate  and  translucent.  Core  not  to 
exceed  T\  inch  in  "large,"  and  |  inch  in  "medium"  and 
"small"  fruit. 

7.  GRAIN',  0  TO  4. 

Standards.  — Fineness,  firmness,  compactness. 

To  be  water-colored,  shading  to  blue  rather  than  to  gray. 

8.    SEED,  0  TO  8. 

Standard.  —  Absence  of. 

One  point  to  be  discounted  for  each  of  first  three  seeds,  and 
£  point  thereafter  for  each  additional. 

Rudiments  to  be  considered  as  seed  if  any  growth  has  been 
developed  ;  otherwise  allowed  without  discount. 

9.   TASTE,  0  TO  40. 

Subdivisions.  —  Acidity,  0  to  20  ;  aroma,  0  to  10  ;  absence  of 
bitterness,  0  to  10. 

In  interstate  competitions  the  standard  of  acidity  shall  be 
the  highest  per  cent  of  strength  of  acid  found  in  any  fruit, 
determined  by  chemical  test.  In  other  competitions  such  tests 
may  be  applied  as  committees  or  competitors  may  require. 

Aroma  shall  be  full  and  of  clear  quality. 

Bitterness  to  be  determined  by  slicing  the  fruit  (including 
peel)  thin,  covering  with  hot  water,  and  cooling  slowly  ;  to  stand 
24  hours  when  practicable.  (No  sugar  to  be  used.)  Should  a 


214          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

trace  of  bitterness  appear  to  the  taste,  discount  1  point ;  should 
this  be  fairly  defined,  discount  2  points ;  if  pronounced,  dis- 
count 5  points,  and  if  strong,  10  points. 

5.    FLOWER  SCORES. 

CHRYSANTHEMUM  SCALES  OF  THE  MASSACHUSETTS  HORTI- 
CULTURAL SOCIETY. — 1.  Size  and  form  of  plants,  25;  size  of 
bloom,  20  ;  general  effect,  30  ;  foliage,  25. 

2.    Size  and  form  of  plant,  40 ;  size  of  bloom,  30 ;  foliage,  30. 

NEWPORT  CHRYSANTHEMUM  SCALE.  —  Size  of  bloom  and 
quality,  30 ;  size  of  plants,  30 ;  foliage,  20 ;  distinctness  of 
form  and  color,  10  ;  general  effect,  10. 

F.  SCHUYLER  MATHEW'S  SCALE  FOR  THE  JUDGMENT  OF 
EXCELLENCE  IN  FLORAL  DESIGN.  —  Adaptability  to  purpose, 
35 ;  color  harmony,  25 ;  composition,  25 ;  excellence  of 
material,  15. 

CHICAGO  SCALE  FOR  FLORAL  ARRANGEMENT. — Adaptability 
for  purpose  intended,  45  ;  arrangement  and  effect,  35  ;  quantity 
of  material,  20. 

H.  H.  BATTLES'  SCALE  FOR  FLORAL  DESIGNS  (50  points).  — 
Color,  general  effect,  grace,  practicability,  quality  of  flowersf 
each  10. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

POSTAL  AND  IMPOST  REGULATIONS, 
i    Classes  of  Domestic  Mail  Matter,  and  Rates. 

FIRST  CLASS.  —  Letters,  postal  cards,  and  matter  wholly  or 
partly  in  writing,  whether  sealed  or  unsealed  (except  manu- 
script copy  accompanying  proof-sheets  or  corrected  proof-sheets 
of  the  same),  and  all  matter  sealed  or  otherwise  closed  against 
inspection. 

Rate.  —  Two  cents  per  ounce  or  fraction  thereof.  Postal 
cards,  one  cent  each.  On  "  drop  "  letters,  two  cents  per  ounce 
or  fraction  thereof,  when  mailed  at  letter-carrier  office  ;  and 
one  cent  per  ounce  or  fraction  thereof  at  other  offices. 

SECOND  CLASS.  —  Newspapers  and  publications  issued  at 
stated  intervals  as  often  as  four  times  a  year,  bearing  a  date  of 
issue  and  numbered  consecutively,  issued  from  a  known  office 
of  publication,  and  formed  of  printed  sheets,  without  board, 
cloth,  leather,  or  other  substantial  binding.  Such  publications 
must  be  originated  and  published  for  the  dissemination  of  in- 
formation of  a  public  character,  or  devoted  to  literature,  the 
sciences,  art,  or  some  special  industry.  They  must  have  a 
legitimate  list  of  subscribers,  and  must  not  be  designed 
primarily  for  advertising  purposes,  or  for  free  circulation  at 
nominal  rates. 

Hate.  —  One  cent  per  pound  or  fraction  thereof  when  sent 
by  publisher  thereof  and  from  office  of  publication,  including 
sample  copies,  or  when  sent  from  news  agency  to  actual  sub- 
scribers or  other  news  agents. 

One  cent  for  each  four  ounces  or  fraction  thereof  on  news- 
papers and  periodical  publications  of  second  class,  when  sent 
by  other  than  publisher  or  news  agent. 

215 


216          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

One  cent  each  on  newspapers  (excepting  weeklies)  and  peri- 
odicals not  exceeding  two  ounces  in  weight,  when  deposited  in 
letter-carrier  office  for  delivery  by  carrier ;  two  cents  each  on 
periodicals  weighing  more  than  two  ounces. 

One  cent  per  pound  on  newspapers,  other  than  weeklies,  and 
periodicals  when  deposited  by  publisher  or  news  agent  in  letter- 
carrier  office  for  general  or  box  delivery ;  one  cent  for  four 
ounces  or  fraction  thereof  when  deposited  by  other  than  pub- 
lishers or  news  agents  for  general  or  box  delivery. 

One  cent  per  pound  or  fraction  thereof  on  weekly  newspapers 
deposited  by  publisher  or  news  agent  in  letter-carrier  office  for 
letter  or  box  delivery,  or  delivery  by  carrier. 

Free  when  one  copy  is  sent  to  each  actual  subscriber  residing 
in  county  where  same  are  printed,  in  whole  or  in  part,  and  pub- 
lished ;  but  at  rate  of  one  cent  per  pound  when  delivered  at 
letter-carrier  office,  or  distributed  by  carriers. 

THIRD  CLASS.  —  Books,  circulars,  and  pamphlets,  and  matter 
wholly  in  print  (not  included  in  second  class),  proof-sheets, 
corrected  proof-sheets,  and  manuscript  copy  accompanying  the 
same. 

"Printed  matter"  is  the  reproduction  upon  paper,  by  any 
process  except  that  of  handwriting,  of  any  words,  letters, 
characters,  figures,  or  images,  or  of  any  combination  thereof, 
not  having  the  character  of  an  actual  and  personal  correspond- 
ence. 

A  "  circular  "  is  a  printed  letter,  which,  according  to  internal 
evidence,  is  being  sent  in  identical  terms  to  several  persons.  It 
is  permissible  to  write,  in  circulars,  the  date,  the  name  of  the 
person  addressed,  or  of  the  sender,  and  to  correct  mere  typo- 
graphical errors. 

Seeds,  bulbs,  roots,  cions,  and  plants  are  also  mailable  at  the 
rate  of  third-class  postage,  such  as  samples  of  wheat  or  other 
grain  in  its  natural  condition,  seedling  potatoes,  beans,  peas, 
acorns,  etc.  Cut  flowers  and  botanical  specimens  go  as  fourth 
class. 

Hate.  —  One  cent  for  each  two  ounces  or  fraction  thereof. 

FOURTH  CLASS.  — Merchandise  ;  namely,  all  matter  not  em- 


POSTAL   AND   IMPOST   REGULATIONS.         217 

braced  in  the  other  three  classes,  and  which  is  not  in  its  form 
or  nature  liable  to  destroy,  deface,  or  otherwise  damage  the 
contents  of  the  mail  bag,  or  harm  the  person  of  any  one 
engaged  in  the  postal  service,  and  not  above  the  weight  pro- 
vided by  law.  Includes  artificial  flowers,  cut  flowers,  dried 
plants,  botanical  and  geological  specimens,  samples  of  flour  or 
other  manufactured  grain  for  food  purposes,  blank  address 
tags  or  labels,  queen  bees  when  properly  packed,  dried  fruit. 
Mate.  —  One  cent  per  ounce  or  fraction  thereof. 

2.   Foreign  Postage. 

To  Canada,  Newfoundland,  and  Mexico,  the  rates  are  mostly 
the  same  as  domestic  postage.  Seeds  and  plants  to  Canada  are 
one  cent  an  ounce. 

In  the  Universal  Postal  Union,  which  includes  nearly  all  the 
countries  of  the  world,  rates  are  as  follows : 

Letters,  |  ounce - 5  cents 

Postal  cards,  single,  each 2     " 

Newspaper  and  other  printed  matter,  per  2  ounces      .     1  cent 
Commercial  papers,  same  as  "printed  matter,"  except 

that  lowest  rate  is 5  cents 

Samples  of  merchandise,  same  as  "  printed  matter," 

except  that  lowest  rate  is 2      " 

Registration  fee 8     " 

3.  Unmailable  Matter. 

Held  for  Postage.  —  Domestic  matter  of  first  class  on  which 
two  cents  has  not  been  prepaid,  and  all  other  domestic  matter 
not  fully  prepaid. 

Misdirected.  —  Matter  without  address,  or  so  incorrectly,  in- 
sufficiently, or  ineligibly  addressed  that  it  cannot  be  forwarded 
to  destination,  including  "nixies"  or  matter  not  addressed  to 
a  post-office,  or  addressed  to  a  post-office  without  the  name  of 
the  state  being  given,  or  otherwise  so  incorrectly,  illegibly,  or 
insufficiently  addressed  that  it  cannot  be  transmitted. 

Destructive.  —  Matter  of  a  harmful  nature,  poisons,  explosive 


218          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

or  inflammable  articles,  live  animals,  or  dead  animals  not  stuffed, 
fruits  or  vegetable  matter  liable  to  decomposition,  comb-honey, 
guano,  articles  exhaling  a  bad  odor,  vinous,  spirituous,  and  malt 
liquors,  liquids  liable  to  explosion,  spontaneous  combustion,  or 
ignition  by  shock  or  jar  (for  example,  kerosene  oil,  naphtha, 
benzine,  turpentine,  etc.).  Bees  and  dried  insects  or  reptiles 
must  be  so  put  up  as  not  to  injure  any  one  handling  the  mails, 
nor  to  soil  mail  bags  or  their  contents. 

Disease  Germs.  —  Discharges  of  any  kind  from  diseased 
persons,  no  matter  how  securely  put  up. 

Coin  and  Jewelry.  —  Coin,  jewelry,  and  other  precious  articles 
prohibited  by  postal  treaty  from  being  sent  in  the  mails  to  for- 
eign countries. 

Scurrilous  Matter.  —  Matter  upon  the  envelope  or  outside 
cover  or  wrapper  of  which,  or  any  postal  card  upon  which,  any 
delineations,  epithets,  terms,  or  language  of  an  indecent,  lewd, 
lascivious,  obscene,  libelous,  scurrilous,  defamatory,  or  threaten- 
ing character,  or  calculated  by  the  terms,  or  manner  or  style  of 
display,  and  obviously  intended  to  reflect  injuriously  upon  the 
character  or  conduct  of  another,  may  be  written  or  printed. 

Obscene  Matter.  —  Every  obscene,  lewd,  or  lascivious  book, 
pamphlet,  picture,  paper,  letter,  writing,  print,  or  other  publica- 
tion of  an  indecent  character,  and  every  article  or  thing  designed 
or  intended  for  the  prevention  of  conception  or  procuring  of 
abortion,  and  every  article  or  thing  intended  or  adapted  for  any 
indecent  or  immoral  use,  and  every  written  or  printed  card, 
letter,  circular,  book,  pamphlet,  advertisement,  or  notice  of  any 
kind  giving  information,  directly  or  indirectly,  where  or  how  or 
of  whom,  or  by  what  means  any  of  the  hereinbefore-mentioned 
matters,  articles,  or  things  may  be  obtained  or  made. 

Lottery  Matter.  —  Letters  and  circulars  known  to  be  concern- 
ing lotteries,  gift-concerts,  etc.,  or  concerning  any  scheme 
devised  and  intended  to  receive  and  defraud  the  public  for  the 
purpose  of  obtaining  money  under  false  pretenses. 

Mutilated.  —  Matter  recovered  from  wrecked  or  burned  mail 
cars  or  vessels,  or  matter  damaged  so  that  it  cannot  be  for- 
warded to  destination.  All  matter  found  loose  in  the  mails, 


POSTAL  AND    IMPOST    REGULATIONS.          219 

separated  from  the  wrapper,  label,  or  envelope  containing  the 
address,  so  that  the  direction  cannot  be  known ;  and  the  matter 
recovered  from  depredations  on  the  mails  and  to  be  restored  to 
the  owners  upon  due  proof  of  ownership. 

Excess  of  Weight  and  Size.  —  Packages  of  domestic  third  and 
fourth  class  matter,  weighing  more  than  four  pounds  (except 
single  books  and  official  matter  emanating  from  the  Depart- 
ments at  Washington),  and  of  foreign  matter  in  excess  of 
weight  or  size  fixed  by  stipulation  of  postal  treaty. 

4.    Customs  Regulations  on  Various  Horticultural  Products. 

Act  of  Aug.  28,  189k. 

DUTIES.  —  Garden  and  agricultural  seeds,  not  specially  pro- 
vided for,  10  per  cent  ad  valorem. 

Vegetables  in  natural  state,  not  specially  provided  for,  10 
per  cent  ad  valorem. 

Apples  green,  ripe,  or  dried,  dates,  pineapples,  grapes,  olives 
green  or  prepared,  fruits  preserved  in  their  own  juices,  peanuts, 
cocoanuts,  20  per  cent  ad  valorem. 

Oranges,  lemons,  and  limes,  in  packages,  at  rate  of  8  cents 
per  cubic  foot  of  capacity ;  in  bulk,  $  1.50  per  thousand ;  and 
in  addition  thereto  a  duty  of  30  per  cent  ad  valorem  upon  the 
boxes  or  barrels. 

Plums,  prunes,  figs,  raisins,  and  other  dried  grapes,  including 
Zante  currants,  1|  cents  per  pound. 

Almonds,  unshelled,  3  cents  per  pound  ;  shelled,  5  cents  per 
pound.  Filberts  and  walnuts,  unshelled,  2  cents  per  pound ; 
shelled,  4  cents  per  pound. 

Orchids,  lily  of  the  valley,  azaleas,  palms,  and  other  plants 
used  for  forcing  under  glass  for  cut  flowers  or  decorative  pur- 
poses, 10  per  cent  ad  valorem. 

FREE  LIST.  —  Cabbages,  cider,  coffee,  green  peas  in  bulk  or 
barrels  or  sacks,  nursery  stock,  yams  ;  seeds  as  follows :  anise, 
canary,  caraway,  cardamom,  coriander,  cotton,  croton,  cummin, 
fennel,  fenugreek,  hemp,  hoarhound,  mustard,  rape,  St.  John's 
bread  or  bene,  sugar  beet,  mangel-wurzel,  sorghum  or  sugar  cane 
for  seed,  and  all  flower  and  grass  seed.  Bulbs  and  roots  not  edible. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

THE   "WEATHER. 
i.  Barometer  Indications. 

Stationary  barometer  indicates  continuance  of  the  present 
weather. 

Slowly  rising  barometer  usually  indicates  fair  weather. 

Slowly  falling  barometer  indicates  the  approach  of  a  severe 
storm.  One-fifth  to  one-third  of  an  inch  is  sufficient  fall  to  give 
indications. 

Sudden  rise  of  the  barometer  indicates  the  approach  of  a 
storm  or  the  breaking-up  of  an  existing  storm. 

Sudden  fall  of  the  barometer  indicates  high  winds  and  prob- 
able rain. 

When  areas  of  low  and  high  barometer  are  near  together, 
heavy  gales  may  be  expected. 

2.  Popular  Weather  Signs. 

Long  lines  of  clouds  extending  up  the  sky  from  a  common 
starting-point  often  foretell  a  storm  from  that  quarter. 

When  the  fleecy  or  cirrus  clouds  settle  down  into  horizontal 
bars  or  ribs  in  the  upper  sky,  wet  and  foul  weather  may  be  ex- 
pected. This  is  the  "  mackerel  sky." 

If  contiguous  clouds  move  in  various  directions,  rain  is  likely 
to  follow  soon. 

When  small  black  clouds  scud  over  an  overcast  sky,  heavy 
rain  and  bad  weather  may  be  expected. 

Cumulus  clouds  that  preserve  a  well-rounded  form  and  float 
high  in  the  air  indicate  fair  weather. 

Anvil-shaped  cumulus  clouds  usually  indicate  thunderstorms. 
220 


THE   WEATHER.  221 

In  spring  and  fall,  rain  is  often  indicated  by  a  dense  bank  of 
gray  clouds  in  the  east,  in  front  of  which  are  little  shoals  of 
blackish  clouds. 

Cirro-cumulus  clouds— like  bunches  and  fleeces  of  wool 
scattered  high  in  the  sky  —  are  indications  of  still  and  dry 
weather. 

When  the  rays  of  the  rising  sun  shoot  far  up  into  the  sky, 
fair  weather  may  be  expected. 

When  the  ray-like  shadows  of  clouds  overlie  a  hazy  sky  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  sun,  rain  is  apt  to  follow.  This  is  expressed  in 
the  phrase  "the  sun  drawing  water." 

Gaudy  hues  of  blue  and  purple  at  sunset  prophesy  rain  and 
wind. 

A  bright  red  sunset  means  fair  weather  for  the  morrow. 

A  pale  and  diffuse  sun  at  setting  portends  a  storm. 

If  the  sun  sets  in  subdued  purple  and  the  zenith  is  pale  blue, 
fair  weather  may  be  expected. 

A  deep  red  morning  sky  is  usually  followed  by  bad  weather. 

A  rosy  or  gray  morning  sky  means  good  weather. 

A  sonorous  condition  of  the  atmosphere  foretells  rain. 

A  bank  of  cloud  across  the  southern  horizon  in  winter  indi- 
cates snow.  It  is  frequently  called  the  "snow-bank." 

If  the  sun  rises  clear  but  becomes  overcast  within  half  an 
hour,  prepare  for  rain. 

A  halo  about  the  moon  indicates  a  rain  storm. 

If  the  sky  is  white  or  yellowish-white  nearly  to  the  zenith 
after  sunset,  prepare  for  rain  soon. 

Strong  east  winds  indicate  a  storm. 

Haziness  is  indicative  of  dry  weather.  It  is  due  to  dust  in 
the  atmosphere. 

When  haziness  suddenly  disappears  and  the  sun  sets  pale  and 
the  sky  is  very  clear,  rain  is  probable. 

When  stars  twinkle  with  unusual  prominence,  rain  may  be 
expected. 

Heavy  dew  indicates  fair  weather. 

Absence  of  dew  for  two  or  three  mornings  in  succession  in 
summer  is  a  precursor  of  rain. 


222          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

3.  Frosts. 

To  Predict  Frost  (Kedzie).  —  1.  When  the  sunshine  is  very 
hot  and  the  shade  very  cold  and  the  shadows  very  deep,  "  there 
is  frost  in  the  air,"  because  the  air  is  very  dry  and  radiation  of 
heat  little  checked. 

2.  When  the  dew-point  is  more  than  10°  Fahrenheit  above 
frost-point  (32°) ,  there  is  little  danger  of  frost,  but  when  it  is 
less  than  this,  frost  may  be  expected.  To  find  approximately 
the  temperature  of  dew-point  when  the  temperature  of  the  air 
is  between  45°  and  65°  Fahrenheit,  multiply  the  difference 
between  the  wet-bulb  and  dry -bulb  thermometers  by  two  and 
subtract  the  product  from  temperature  of  dry -bulb.  If  the  re- 
mainder is  above  42°  Fahrenheit,  there  is  little  danger  of  frost. 
The  nearer  this  remainder  comes  to  32°,  the  greater  the  danger 
of  frost,  especially  it  the  air  is  still  and  clouds  disappear  at 
sunset. 

The  dew-point  is  determined  by  the  wet  and  dry  bulb  ther- 
mometer (or  psychrometer).  The  instrument  may  be  made  as 
follows :  For  the  frame  take  a  board  18  inches  long,  2  inches 
wide,  and  ^  inch  thick,  with  a  hole  bored  in  one  end  to  hang  the 
apparatus  on  a  nail  when  not  in  use.  Get  two  all-glass  ther- 
mometers with  cylindrical  bulbs,  and  the  degrees  Fahrenheit 
engraved  on  the  stem.  Cover  the  bulb  of  one  thermometer 
with  a  thin  piece  of  cotton  cloth,  fastening  it  securely  by 
a  thread.  When  this  cloth  covering  is  wet  with  water  and 
exposed  to  evaporation  in  the  air,  it  constitutes  the  "  wet-bulb 
thermometer"-,  the  other  thermometer  has  no  covering  on  its 
bulb,  is  not  wet  at  any  time,  and  constitutes  the  "dry -bulb 
thermometer. ' ' 

The  range  of  temperature  of  the  open  air  in  this  table  is 
from  36°  Fahrenheit  to  75°  Fahrenheit,  and  of  depression  of 
temperature  in  the  wet  bulb,  from  1°  to  13°  Fahrenheit,  giving 
a  range  in  both  directions  of  sufficient  scope  for  the  needs  of 
Northern  farmers  during  the  growing  season.  The  tempera- 
ture of  the  dry-bulb  (or  open  air  temperature)  is  found  in 
the  left-hand  column  of  the  table ;  the  difference  in  degrees 


THE   WEATHER. 


223 


TABLE  FOR  DETERMINING  THE  TEMPERATURE  OF  DEW-POINT 
FROM  THE  HEADINGS  OF  THE  DRY  AND  WET  BULB  THER- 
MOMETERS (HAZEN). 


pj 

as    W 

DEPRESSION  OF  THE  WET-BULB  THERMOMETER. 

il 

><  a 

^  a 

1' 

2° 

3° 

4° 

5° 

6° 

7° 

8° 

9° 

10° 

11° 

13° 

13° 

75°  

74 

72 

71 

69 

68 

66 

64 

63 

61 

59 

57 

56 

54 

74°  .... 

73 

71 

70 

68 

67 

65 

C3 

62 

60 

58 

56 

54 

52 

73°  .... 

72 

70 

69 

67 

66 

64 

62 

61 

59 

57 

55 

53 

51 

72°  

71 

69 

68 

66 

64 

63 

61 

59 

58 

56 

54 

52 

50 

71°  

70 

68 

67 

65 

63 

62 

60 

58 

56 

55 

53 

51 

48 

70°  

69 

67 

66 

64 

62 

61 

59 

57 

55 

53 

51 

49 

47 

69°  

68 

66 

64 

63 

61 

59 

58 

56 

54 

52 

50 

48 

46 

68°  

67 

65 

63 

62 

60 

58 

57 

55 

53 

51 

49 

46 

44 

67°  .... 

66 

64 

62 

61 

59 

57 

55 

54 

52 

50 

47 

45 

43 

66°  

64 

63 

61 

60 

58 

56 

54 

52 

50 

48 

46 

44 

65°  .... 

63 

62 

60 

59 

57 

55 

53 

51 

49 

47 

45 

42 

kl 

64°  

62 

61 

59 

57 

56 

54 

52 

50 

48 

46 

43 

ko 

63°  

61 

60 

58 

56 

55 

53 

51 

49 

47 

44 

42 

kl 

38 

62°  .... 

60 

59 

57 

55 

53 

52 

50 

48 

45 

43 

39 

37 

61°  

59 

58 

56 

54 

52 

50 

48 

46 

44 

42 

kl 

38 

35 

60°  

58 

57 

55 

53 

51 

49 

47 

45 

43 

39 

36 

S3 

59°  

57 

56 

54 

52 

50 

48 

46 

44 

kO 

38 

35 

32 

5S°  

56 

55 

53 

51 

49 

47 

45 

42 

kl 

39 

36 

33 

SO 

57°  

55 

54 

52 

50 

48 

46 

44 

ko 

37 

35 

31 

28 

56°  

54 

53 

51 

49 

47 

44 

42 

kl 

39 

36 

33 

30 

26 

55°  

53 

52 

50 

48 

46 

43 

kO 

37 

3k 

31 

28 

25 

54°  

52 

50 

49 

46 

44 

42 

kl 

39 

36 

33 

30 

27 

23 

53°  

51 

49 

47 

45 

43 

ko 

37 

3k 

31 

28 

25 

20 

52°  

50 

48 

46 

44 

42 

kl 

38 

36 

33 

30 

27 

23 

18 

51°  

49 

47 

45 

43 

kO 

37 

3k 

31 

28 

25 

21 

16 

50°  

48 

46 

44 

42 

kl 

38 

36 

33 

30 

27 

23 

19 

Ik 

49°  

47 

45 

43 

ko 

37 

Sk 

31 

28 

25 

21 

17 

11 

48°  

46 

44 

42 

kl 

38 

36 

33 

30 

27 

23 

19 

Ik 

9 

47°  

45 

43 

ko 

37 

35 

32 

29 

25 

22 

17 

12 

6 

46°  

44 

42 

kl 

39 

36. 

33 

30 

27 

2k 

20 

15 

10 

3 

45°  .... 

43 

kO 

37 

35 

32 

29 

26 

22 

18 

13 

7 

-1 

44°  .... 

42 

kl 

39 

36 

33 

30 

27 

2k 

20 

16 

11 

k 

-5 

ko 

37 

35 

32 

29 

26 

23 

19 

Ik 

8 

1 

-9 

43°.  . 

kl 

39 

36 

3k 

31 

28 

25 

21 

17 

12 

6 

-2 

-15 

42°  

ko 

38 

35 

33 

26 

23 

19 

15 

9 

3 

-6 

-22 

41°  .... 

39 

36 

Sk 

31 

28 

25 

22 

17 

13 

7 

0 

-11 

-32 

40°  .... 

38 

35 

33 

30 

27 

2k 

20 

16 

11 

k 

-k 

-16 

-7k 

39°  

37 

3k 

32 

29 

26 

22 

18 

Ik 

8 

2 

-8 

-23 

88°  

36 

33 

SI 

28 

2k 

21 

17 

12 

6 

-1 

-12 

-35 

37°  .... 

35 

32 

29 

26 

23 

19 

15 

10 

k 

-5 

-17 

36°  

3k 

31 

25 

22 

18 

13 

8 

1 

-8 

-25 

224          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

between  the  readings  of  the  dry  and  wet  bulb  is  entered  in 
the  horizontal  line  at  the  top,  from  1°  to  13°.  To  find  the 
temperature  of  dew-point  at  any  observation,  find  in  left-hand 
column  the  temperature  of  dry-bulb,  then  follow  the  horizontal 
line  opposite  that  figure  till  you  reach  the  perpendicular  col- 
umn under  the  difference  between  dry  and  wet  bulb  readings, 
and  the  figures  at  the  meeting  of  these  two  columns  will  give 
the  temperature  of  dew-point.  For  example,  suppose  the  dry- 
bulb  stands  at  65°  and  wet-bulb  at  55°,  the  difference  is  10°. 
Pass  across  the  page  in  the  line  of  65°  till  you  intersect  the 
vertical  column  under  10°  and  you  read  47°,  which  is  dew-point 
under  these  conditions.  If  the  dew-point  is  10°  or  more  above 
frost-point  (32°  Fahrenheit),  there  is  no  danger  of  killing 
frost;  but  if  the  dew-point  is  less  than  10°  above  32°,  danger 
may  be  apprehended.  If  a  line  is  drawn  from  the  intersection 
of  43°  — 1°  and  67°— 13°,  of  the  table,  this  may  be  called  the 
danger  line,  and  all  dew-point  temperatures  below  this  line 
indicate  danger  of  frost,  and  are  printed  in  italics.  This  mar- 
gin of  10°  is  taken  because  the  temperature  on  a  still  night 
will  sink  a  few  degrees  below  the  first  dew-point,  and  the 
temperature  of  the  air  at  5  feet  above  the  ground  is  several 
degrees  above  that  at  ground  level.  For  these  reasons  com- 
bined a  margin  of  10°  may  be  safely  assumed  as  the  limit  of 
safety. 

To  Protect  Plants  from  Light  Frosts. — 1.  Make  a  smudge 
in  the  garden  or  vineyard  at  night  when  the  frost  is  expected. 
Rubbish  or  litter  and  tar  make  the  best  smudge.  2.  Syringe 
the  plants  thoroughly  at  night-fall. 

"  If  the  farmer  is  forewarned  of  the  approach  of  a  still  frost, 
he  may  do  something  to  avert  the  calamity.  The  conservative 
influence  of  watery  vapor  is  the  most  hopeful  means  of  pro- 
tection, and  sometimes  trivial  causes  of  this  class  will  produce 
surprising  results.  The  old  plan  of  '  a  tub  of  water  under  the 
fruit  tree,  and  a  rope  reaching  from  the  tub  into  the  branches,' 
may  serve  a  useful  purpose.  The  evaporation  from  the  water 
in  the  tub  and  of  the  water  carried  up  by  capillary  action  in 
the  rope  may  spread  the  protecting  folds  of  the  water  blanket 


THE   WEATHER.  225 

over  the  tree.     Such  appliances,  while  of  some  use  for  a  small 
garden,  would  be  futile  for  a  farm. 

"  If  the  hoed  crops  of  the  farm  are  cultivated  with  reference 
to  securing  a  constant  supply  of  moisture  in  the  upper  soil,  — 
to  draw  by  capillary  action  of  the  soil  upon  the  reservoir  of 
water  in  the  subsoil,  and  at  the  same  time  keep  the  surface*  soil 
in  such  condition  as  to  prevent  the  too  rapid  dissipation  of  soil 
moisture,  —  the  fields  may  be  saved  from  frost  by  a  covering  as 
impalpable  as  air  but  as  effectual  as  eider-down.  Here  is  a 
conservatism  of  highest  importance  for  both  farmer  and  fruit 
grower. ' '  —  Kedzie. 

4.   Signals  of  the  United  States  Weather  Bureau. 

A.    FLAG    SIGNALS. 

No.  1,  square  white  flag,  alone,  indicates  fair  weather,  station- 
ary temperature. 

No.  2,  square  blue  flag,  alone,  indicates  rain  or  snow,  station- 
ary temperature. 

No.  3,  square,  white  above,  blue  below,  alone,  indicates  local 
rain,  stationary  temperature. 

No.  4,  triangular  black,  refers  to  temperature. 

No.  5,  square  white,  with  black  center,  cold  wave. 

No.  1,  with  No.  4  above  it,  indicates  fair  weather,  warmer. 

No.  1,  with  No.  4  below  it,  indicates  fair  weather,  colder. 

No.  2,  with  No.  4  above  it,  indicates  warmer  weather,  rain  or 
snow. 

No.  2,  with  No.  4  below  it,  indicates  colder  weather,  rain  or 
snow. 

No.  3,  with  No.  4  above  it,  indicates  warmer  weather  with  local 
rains. 

No.  3,  with  No.  4  below  it,  indicates  colder  weather  with  local 
rains. 

No.   1,   with  No.    5   below  it,    indicates    fair   weather,  cold 
wave. 

No.    2,  with   No.    5  below  it,    indicates  wet  weather,   cold 
wave. 

Q 


226          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 


B.     WHISTLE    SIGNALS. 

The  warning  signal,  to  attract  attention,  will  be  a  long  blast 
of  from  fifteen  to  twenty  seconds'  duration.  After  this  warning 
signal  has  been  sounded,  long  blasts  (of  from  four  to  six  seconds' 
duration)  refer  to  weather,  and  short  blasts  (of  from  one  to 
three  seconds'  duration)  refer  to  temperature  ;  those  for  weather 
to  be  sounded  first. 

Blasts.  Indicate. 

One  long Fair  weather. 

Two  long Rain  or  snow. 

Three  long Local  rains. 

One  short Lower  temperature. 

Two  short Higher  temperature. 

Three  short Cold  wave. 

Interpretation  of  combination  blasts. 

One  long,  alone Fair  weather,  station- 
ary temperature. 

Two  long,  alone Rain  or  snow,  station- 
ary temperature. 

One  long  and  short Fair  weather,  lower 

temperature. 

Two  long  and  two  short Rain  or  snow,  higher 

temperature. 

One  long  and  three  short  .  .  .  .  .  Fair  weather,  cold 

wave. 

Three  long  and  two  short Local  rains,  higher 

temperature. 

By  repeating  each  combination  a  few  times,  with  an  interval 
of  ten  seconds  between,  possibilities  of  error  in  reading  the 
forecasts  will  be  avoided,  such  as  may  arise  from  variable  winds, 
or  failure  to  hear  the  warning  signal. 

5.  Phenology. 

Phenology  (contraction  of  phenomenology}  is  that  science 
which  considers  the  relationship  of  local  climate  to  the  peri- 


THE   WEATHER.  227 

odicity  of  the  annual  phenomena  of  nature.  It  usually  studies 
climate  and  the  progression  of  the  seasons  in  terms  of  plant  and 
animal  life,  as  the  dates  of  migrations,  of  blooming,  leafing, 
ripening  of  fruit,  defoliation,  and  the  like.  If  observations  are 
to  have  permanent  value,  they  must  be  taken  with  a  definite 
purpose.  The  particular  objects  of  phenological  observations 
are  the  following : 

1.  To  determine  the  general  oncoming  of  spring. 

2.  To  determine  the  fitful  or  variable  features  of  spring. 

3.  To  determine  the  epoch  of  the  full  activity  of  the  advanc- 
ing season. 

4.  To  determine  the  active  physiological  epoch  of  the  year. 

5.  To  determine  the  maturation  of  the  season. 

6.  To  determine  the  oncoming  of  the  decline  of  fall. 

7.  To  determine  the  approach  of  winter. 

8.  To  determine  the  features  of  the  winter  epoch. 

9.  To  determine  the  fleeting  or  fugitive  epochs  of  the  year. 

Good  phenological  observations  upon   plants  should  satisfy 
the  following  tests,  as  given  by  Hoffmann : 

1.  They  should  represent  as  broad  a  distribution  as  possible 
of  the  given  species,  selected  for  observation. 

2.  Ease  and  certainty   of    identifying    the  definite  phases 
which  are  to  be  observed. 

3.  The  utility  of  the  observations  as  regards  biological  ques- 
tions, such  as  the  vegetative  periods,  time  of  ripening,  etc. 

4.  Representation  of  the  entire  vegetation  period. 

5.  Consideration  of  those  species  which  are  found  in  almost 
all  published  observations,  and  especially  of  those  whose  devel- 
opment is  not  influenced  by  momentary  or  accidental  circum- 
stances, as  is  the  dandelion. 

The  epochs  of  vegetation  which  should  be  observed  for  most 
phenological  purposes  are  these  : 

1.  Upper  surface  of  the  leaf  first  visible  or  spread  open. 

2.  First  blossoms  open. 


228          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

3.  First  fruit  ripe. 

4.  All  leaves,  or  more  than  half  of  them,  colored. 

Typical  and  average  plants  should  always  be  selected  for 
observation,  and  they  should  be  few  in  number.  A  dozen  well- 
selected  species  will  afford  more  satisfactory  records,  year  by 
year,  than  observations  made  at  random  upon  a  great  variety  of 
plants.  For  the  sudden  moods  of  spring,  the  peach  and  dande- 
lion are  useful  for  observation,  but  such  plants  —  those  which 
respond  quickly  to  every  fitful  variation  of  the  early  season  — 
are  not  reliable  for  the  staple  records  of  the  years.  Useful 
plants  for  study  are  the  following : 

Apple.  Cultivated  Strawberry. 

Pear.  Lilac. 

Quince.  Mock  Orange  or  Syringa. 

Plum.  Horse  Chestnut. 

Sweet  Cherry.  Red-pith  Elder. 

Sour  Cherry.  Common  Elder. 

Peach.  Flowering  Dogwood. 

Choke  Cherry.  Native  Basswood. 

Wild  Black  Cherry.  Native  Chestnuts. 
Japanese  or  Flowering  Quince.    Privet  or  Prim. 

Cultivated  Kaspberry.  Red  Currant. 

Cultivated  Blackberry.  Cultivated  Grape. 


CHAPTER   XIX. 

LITERATURE. 
i.  Some  Current  Books  upon  American  Horticulture. 

A.     GENERAL. 

BAILEY,  L.  H.  Annals  of  Horticulture  in  North  America  for 
the  Year  1889.  A  Witness  of  Passing  Events  and  a  Record 
of  Progress.  Similar  volumes  for  1890,  1891,  1892,  1893. 
Rural  Publishing  Co.  and  Orange  Judd  Co.  $  1  each. 

BAILEY,  L.  H.  Plant-Breeding.  Five  Lectures  upon  the  Ame- 
lioration of  Domestic  Plants.  Macmillan  &  Co.  $  1. 

BAILEY,  L.  H.  The  Nursery -Book.  A  Complete  Guide  to  the 
Multiplication  and  Pollination  of  Plants.  Rural  Publishing 
Co.  fll. 

BARNARD,  CHARLES.  My  Handkerchief  Garden.  Rural  Pub- 
lishing Co.  20  cents. 

CROZIER,  WILLIAM,  and  PETER  HENDERSON.  How  the  Farm 
Pays.  Peter  Henderson  &  Co.  $2.50. 

FOWLER,  A.  B.  Greenhouse  Heating.  Published  by  the 
author,  Exeter,  N.H.  75  cents. 

FULLER,  A.  S.  The  Propagation  of  Plants.  Orange  Judd  Co. 
$1.50. 

GRAY,  ASA.  Field,  Forest,  and  Garden  Botany.  Revised 
edition,  by  L.  H.  Bailey.  American  Book  Co. 

GREENHOUSE  HEATING.  Articles  by  various  authors.  Florist's 
Exchange,  N.Y.  25  cents. 

HENDERSON,  PETER.  Garden  and  Farm  Topics.  Peter  Hender- 
son &  Co.  $  1. 

HENDERSON,  PETER.  Gardening  for  Pleasure.  Orange  Judd 
Co.  $2. 


230          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

;  / 

HENDERSON,  PETER.  Handbook  of  Plants.  Henderson  &  Co.  $4. 
LONGMAN,  E.  G.    The  Spraying  of  Plants.     Macmillan  &  Co. 

^$1*    (Rural  Science  Series.) 

RoE,E.P.  Play  and  Profit  in  My  Garden.  Orange  Judd  Co.  $1.60. 
,  -IjJ  P.     The  Home  Acre.     Dodd,  Mead  &  Co.     $1.50. 

s,  F.  W.     Injurious  Insects  and  the  Use  of  Insecticides. 
*  W*  Atlee  Burpee  &  Co.,  Philadelphia.     $  1. 
STEWART,    HENRY.     Irrigation    for    the    Farm,    Garden,    and 
/*>  Orchard.    Orange  Judd  Co.     $1.50. 
TAFT,   L.   R.      Greenhouse   Construction.     Orange   Judd  Co. 


TREAT,  MRS.  MARY.    Insects  of  the  Farm  and  Garden.    Orange 

Judd  Co.     $2. 

WEED,  C.  M.     Fungi  and  Fungicides.     Orange  Judd  Co. 
WEED,  C.  M.      Insects  and  Insecticides.     Published  by  the 

author,  Hanover,  N.H.    $1.25. 
WEED,  C.  M.    Spraying  Crops.    Rural  Publishing  Co.    50cents. 

B.     FLOWERS,    ORNAMENTAL   AND   LANDSCAPE    GARDENING. 

ALLEN,    CHARLES    L.      Bulbs    and    Tuberous-  rooted    Plants. 

Orange  Judd  Co.     $  2. 
BARKER,  MICHAEL.    American  Chrysanthemum  Annual,  1895. 

Mayflower  Publishing  Co.     $  1. 
CAMPBELL,  ELLA  GRANT.     Floral  Designs.     $3.50. 
ELLIOTT,  F.  R.     Handbook  of  Practical  Landscape  Gardening. 

D.  M.  Dewey,  Rochester.     $1.50. 

ELLWANGER,  H.  B.    The  Rose.     Dodd,  Mead  &  Co.     $1.25. 
HALLIDAY,  ROBERT  J.     Practical  Azalea  Culture.    Published 

by  the  author,  Baltimore.     $  2. 
HALLIDAY,  ROBERT  J.     Practical  Camellia  Culture.     Published 

by  the  author,  Baltimore.     $  2. 
HEINRICH,  JULIUS  J.    Window  Flower  Garden.     Orange  Judd 

Co.     75  cents. 
HENDERSON,  PETER.     Practical  Floriculture.    Orange  Judd  Co. 

$1.50. 
HENDERSON,  PETER  &  Co.     Bulb  Culture.     Peter  Henderson 

&  Co.,  New  York.     25  cents. 


LITERATURE.  231 

HUNT,  M.  A.  How  to  Grow  Cut  Flowers.  Published  by  the 
author  (deceased),  Terre  Haute,  Ind.  $2. 

HUTCHINS,  RET.  W.  T.  All  about  Sweet  Peas.  W.  Atlee 
Burpee  &  Co.,  Philadelphia.  20  cents. 

JOHNSON,  REV.  E.  A.  Winter  Greeneries  at  Home.  Orange 
Judd  Co.  $  1. 

KEMP,  EDWARD.  How  to  Lay  out  a  Garden  (or  Landscape 
Gardening).  American  edition.  John  Wiley  &  Son. 
$2.50. 

LAMBORN,  L.  L.  American  Carnation  Culture.  Published  by 
the  author,  Alliance,  Ohio.  $1.50. 

LONG,  E.  A.  How  to  Plant  a  Place.  Rural  Publishing  Co. 
20  cents. 

LONG,  E.  A.  Landscape  Gardening  (plans).  Rural  Publish- 
ing Co.  50  cents. 

LONG,  E.  A.  Ornamental  Gardening  for  Americans.  Orange 
Judd  Co.  $2. 

LONG,  E.  A.  The  Home  Florist.  Charles  A.  Reeser,  Spring- 
field, Ohio.  $1.50. 

MATHEWS,  F.  SCHTJYLER.  The  Beautiful  Flower  Garden. 
W.  Atlee  Burpee  &  Co.,  Philadelphia.  50  cents. 

MORTON,  JAMES.  Chrysanthemum  Culture  for  America.  Rural 
Publishing  Co.  $1. 

MORTON,  JAMES.  Southern  Floriculture.  W.  P.  Titus,  Clarks- 
ville,  Tenn.  $  1. 

PARSONS,  SAMUEL,  JR.  Landscape  Gardening.  G.  P.  Put- 
nam's Sons.  $3.50. 

PARSONS,  S.  B.    On  the  Rose.     Orange  Judd  Co.    $  1. 

POWELL,  E.  C.,  and  WILLIAM  MCMILLAN.  Street  and  Shade 
Trees.  Rural  Publishing  Co.  20  cents. 

RAND,  E.  S.,  JR.  Flowers  for  the  Parlor  and  Garden.  Hough- 
ton,  Mifflin  &  Co.  $2.50. 

RAND,  E.  S.,  JR.     Orchids.     Houghton,  Mifflin  &  Co.     $3.00. 

RAND,  E.  S.,  JR.  Popular  Flowers  and  How  to  Cultivate  Them. 
Houghton,  Mifflin  &  Co.  $2.00. 

RAND,  E.  S.,  JR.  Rhododendrons.  Houghton,  Mifflin  &  Co. 
$1.50. 


232          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

RAND,  E.  S.  JR.  The  Window  Gardener.  Houghton,  Mifflin 
&  Co.  $  1.25. 

REXFORD,  EBEN  E.  Home  Floriculture.  James  Vick,  Roches- 
ter, N.Y. 

SCOTT,  F.  J.  Beautiful  Homes.  American  Book  Exchange. 
$2.50. 

SHEEHAN,  JAMES.     Your  Plants.     Orange  Judd  Co.     40  cents. 

SOLLY,  GEORGE  A.  &  SON.  Designs  for  Flower  Beds.  Spring- 
field, Mass.  $3. 

TUBEROUS  BEGONIAS.     Rural  Publishing  Co.     20  cents. 

WEIDENMANN,  J.  Beautifying  Country  Homes.  Orange  Judd 
Co.  $  10. 

C.    VEGETABLES. 

BRILL,  F.  Cauliflowers  and  How  to  Grow  Them.  Orange 
Judd  Co.  20  cents. 

BRILL,  FRANCIS.  Farm  Gardening  and  Seed  Growing.  Orange 
Judd  Co.  $  1. 

BURPEE,  W.  ATLEE.  How  and  What  to  Grow  in  a  Kitchen 
Garden  of  One  Acre.  W.  Atlee  Burpee  &  Co.,  Phila- 
delphia. 75  cents. 

BURPEE,  W.  ATLEE,  Editor.  How  to  Grow  Cabbages  and  Cauli- 
flowers. By  Pedersen  and  Howard.  W.  Atlee  Burpee  & 
Co.,  Philadelphia.  30  cents. 

BURPEE,  W.  ATLEE,  Editor.  How  to  Grow  Melons  for  Market. 
W.  Atlee  Burpee  &  Co.,  Philadelphia.  30  cents. 

CARMAN,  E.  S.  The  New  Potato  Culture.  Rural  Publishing 
Co.  75  cents. 

CROZIER,  A.  A.  The  Cauliflower.  Register  Publishing  Co., 
Ann  Arbor,  Mich.  $  1. 

DAY,  J.  W.  Treatise  on  Tomato  Culture.  Published  by  the 
author,  Crystal  Springs,  Miss.  25  cents. 

DAY,  J.  W.,  D.  CUMMINS  and  A.  I.  ROOT.  Tomato  Culture. 
A.  I.  Root,  Medina,  Ohio.  40  cents. 

FALCONER,  WM.  Mushrooms,  How  to  Grow  Them.  Orange 
Judd  Co.  $1.50. 

FITZ,  JAMES.    Sweet  Potato  Culture.    Orange  Judd  Co.   60  cents. 


LITERATURE.  233 

GREGORY,  J.  J.  H.  Cabbages,  How  to  Grow  Them.  Marble- 
head,  Mass.  30  cents. 

GREGORY,  J.  J.  H.  Carrots,  Mangold-Wurzels,  and  Sugar 
Beets.  Marblehead,  Mass.  30  cents. 

GREGORY,  J.  J.  H.  Onion  Raising.  Rand  Avery  Co.,  Boston. 
30  cents. 

GREGORY,  J.  J.  H.  Squashes,  How  to  Grow  Them.  Orange 
Judd  Co.  30  cents. 

GREINER,  T.  Celery  for  Profit.  W.  Atlee  Burpee  &  Co., 
Philadelphia.  30  cents. 

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234          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

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LITERATURE.  235 

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236          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

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Monthly.    50  cents.   (Formerly  Smith's  Small  Fruit  Farmer.) 


LITEEATUEE.  237 

American  Florist  (trade).     Chicago  and  New  York.     Weekly. 

•  1. 
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Des  Moines,  Iowa.     Monthly.     50  cents. 


238          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

3.  Experiment  Station  Literature. 

The  bulletins  of  the  various  Agricultural  Experiment  Stations 

can  be  obtained  by  addressing  the  directors  or  officers  in  charge 

of  the  stations,  as  follows  : 

ALABAMA  —  Auburn:  College  Station;  W.  L.  Broun.  Union- 
town  :  Canebrake  Station  ;  H.  Benton. 

ARIZONA  —  Tucson  :  T.  B.  Comstock. 

ARKANSAS — Fayetteville.   II.  L.  Bennett. 

CALIFORNIA — Berkeley:  E.  W.  Hilgard. 

COLORADO  —  Fort  Collins  :  Alston  Ellis. 

CONNECTICUT  —  New  Haven.  State  Station;  S.  W.  Johnson. 
Storrs :  Storrs  Station  ;  W.  0.  Atwater. 

DELAWARE  —  Newark:  A.  T.  Neale. 

FLORIDA  —  Lake  City :  O.  Clute. 

GEORGIA  —  Experiment:  R.  J.  Redding. 

IDAHO — Moscow:  C.  P.  Fox. 

ILLINOIS  —  Champaign :  Eugene  Davenport. 

INDIANA  —  Lafayette  :  C.  S.  Plumb. 

IOWA  —  Ames :  James  Wilson. 

KANSAS  —  Manhattan:  G.  T.  Fairchild. 

KENTUCKY  —  Lexington :  M.  A.  Scovell. 

LOUISIANA  — Audubon  Park,  New  Orleans :  Sugar  Station. 
Baton  Eouge :  State  Station.  Calhoun :  North  Louisiana 
Station.  W.  C.  Stubbs. 

MAINE —  Orono  :  W.  H.  Jordan. 

MARYLAND  —  College  Park:  R.  H.  Miller. 

MASSACHUSETTS  —  Amherst :  State  Station;  C.  A.  Goessmann. 
Amherst :  Hatch  Station  ;  H.  H.  Goodell. 

MICHIGAN  —  Agricultural  College:  C.  D.  Smith. 

MINNESOTA  —  St.  Anthony  Park:  W.  M.  Liggett. 

MISSISSIPPI — Agricultural  College:  S.  M.  Tracy. 

MISSOURI  —  Columbia:  P.  Schweitzer. 

MONTANA  —  Bozeman  :  S.  M.  Emery. 

NEBRASKA  —  Lincoln:  C.  L.  Ingersoll. 

NEVADA  —  Reno  :  J.  E.  Stubbs. 

NEW  HAMPSHIRE  —  Durham  :  G.  H.  Whitcher. 


LITERATURE.  239 

NEW  JERSEY  —  New  Brunswick:  State  Station;  E.  B.  Voor- 
hees.  New  Brunswick :  College  Station  ;  A.  Scott. 

NEW  MEXICO — Las  Gruces :  S.  P.  McCrea. 

NEW  YORK  —  Geneva  :  State  Station  ;  P.  Collier.  Ithaca  : 
Cornell  University  Station  ;  I.  P.  Roberts. 

NORTH  CAROLINA  —  Ealeigh  :  H.  B.  Battle. 

NORTH  DAKOTA  —  Fargo  :  J.  B.  Power. 

OHIO  —  Wooster :  C.  E.  Thome. 

OKLAHOMA  —  Stillwater :  James  C.  Neal. 

OREGON  —  Corvallis :  J.  M.  Bloss. 

PENNSYLVANIA  —  State  College :  H.  P.  Armsby. 

RHODE  ISLAND  —  Kingston:  C.  O.  Flagg. 

SOUTH  CAROLINA  —  Clemson  College :  E.  B.  Craighead. 

SOUTH  DAKOTA  —  Brookings  :  L.  McLouth. 

TENNESSEE  —  Knoxville  :  C.  F.  Vanderford. 

TEXAS—  College  Station:  J.  H.  Cornell. 

UTAH  —  Logan:  J.  H.  Paul. 

VERMONT  —  Burlington :  J.  L.  Hills. 

VIRGINIA  —  Blacksburg :  J.  M.  McBryde. 

WASHINGTON  —  Pullman  :  E.  A.  Bryan. 

WEST  VIRGINIA  —  Morgantown  :  J.  A.  Myers. 

WISCONSIN  —  Madison:  W.  A.  Henry. 

WYOMING  —  Laramie  :  A.  A.  Johnson. 

The  Scientific  Bureaus  and  Divisions  of  the  Department  of 
Agriculture,  Washington,  are  as  follows  : 

WEATHER  BUREAU  —  M.  W.  Harrington,  Chief. 

BUREAU  OF  ANIMAL  INDUSTRY  —  D.  E.  Salmon,  Chief. 

DIVISION  OF  STATISTICS  —  H.  A.  Robinson,  Statistician. 

DIVISION  OF  ENTOMOLOGY  —  L.  O.  Howard,  Entomologist. 

DIVISION  OF  CHEMISTRY  —  H.  W.  Wiley,  Chemist. 

DIVISION  OF  BOTANY — F.  V.  Coville,  Botanist. 

DIVISION  OF  FORESTRY  —  B.  E.  Fernow,  Chief. 

DIVISION     OF     ORNITHOLOGY     AND     MAMMALOGY  —  C.    Hart 

Merriam,  Ornithologist. 

DIVISION  OF  POMOLOGY  —  S.  B.  Heiges,  Pomologist. 
DIVISION  OF  VEGETABLE  PATHOLOGY  —  B.  T.  Galloway,  Chief. 


240          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

DIVISION  OF  MICROSCOPY  —  T.  Taylor,  Microscopist. 
OFFICE  OF  EXPERIMENT  STATIONS  —  A.  C.  True,  Director. 

Abstracts  of  all  experiment  station  and  scientific  agricultural 
literature  are  published  monthly  in  the  Experiment  Station 
Becord,  issued  by  the  Office  of  Experiment  Stations,  Depart- 
ment of  Agriculture. 


CHAPTER  XX. 

NAMES,     HISTORIES,  AND   CLASSIFICATION. 

i.   Vegetables  which  have  Different  Names  in  England  and 

America. 
In  America.  In  England. 

Artichoke  (Helianthus  tuberosus)  Jerusalem  artichoke.   (The 

true  artichoke  is  a  very 
different  plant,  grown  for 
its  edible  flower-heads.) 

Bean Kidney-bean,     or    French 

bean.  (To  distinguish  it 
from  the  broad  bean, 
Vicia  Fab  a,  which  is  the 
chief  bean  of  history.) 

Beet Beet-root. 

Lima  bean Lima  kidney-bean. 

Muskmelon Melon. 

Parsnip Parsnep  in  many  old  books. 

Pepper Capsicum.     ("Pepper"  is 

properly  applied  to  the 
black  and  white  pepper 
of  commerce.) 

Pumpkin Vegetable  marrow.  Gourd. 

Rutabaga Turnip-rooted     cabbage, 

Swedish  turnip. 

Salsify Salsafy. 

Squash Pumpkin.    Gourd. 

"      Scallop Custard-marrow. 

"      Winter    Crookneck    (Cu- 

curbita  moschata)    .     .     Muskmelon,  rarely. 

Swiss  chard Leaf -beet. 

Turnip Turnep  in  many  old  books. 

R  241 


242          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 


2.  Names  of  Fruits  and  Vege- 

English.  French.  German. 

Almond  .     .....  Amandier Mandel 

Apple Pommier Apfel 

Apricot Abricotier Aprikose 

Artichoke Artichaut Artischoke 

Asparagus Asperge Spargel 

Banana Banane Pisang 

(  Grosse    Bonne  and  Gar-  ) 
Bean,  Broad    ....  Fove  de  Marais     .     .     .    \ 

(     ten  Bonne f 

Bean,  Kidney  ....  Haricot Turcksche  Bohne  .... 

Beet Betterave Rothe  Rube 

Berberry lupine  vinette Berberitzenstrauch  .  .  . 

Black  Currant  .  .  .  Cassis  and  Groseille  noir  .  Schwartze  Johannisbeere  . 

Borecole Chou  vert,  or  Non  pomrnc  Griiner  Kohl 

Broccoli Broccoli  and  Chau  brocolis  Italienischer  Kohl .... 

Brussels  Sprouts  .  .  Chou  de  Bruxelles  or  a  jets  Sprossen  Kohl 

Cabbage Chou  pornino  or  Cabus  .  .  Kopfkohl 

Cardoon Cardon Kardon 

Carrot Carotte Mohre  or  Gelbe  Rube  .  . 

Cauliflower Chou-fleur Blumen  Kohl 

Celery  ......  Celeri Sellerie 

Cherry Cerisier Kirsche 

Chicory  or  Succory  .  .  Chicor6e  Sauvage .  .  .  .  Gemeine  Cichorie  .  /  .  . 
Cress,  Garden  .  .  .  Cresson Gemeine  Garten  Kresse 

"     Water    ....  Cresson  de  Fontaine      .     .  Brunnen  Kresse     .... 

"  Winter  ....  Cressou  de  Terro  ....  Winter  Kresse 

Cucumber Concombre Gurke 

Egg-plant Melongene,  Aubergine  .  .  Tollapfel  and  Eierpflanze  . 

(  Chicoree  des  Jardins,  En-  |  ^    , .  . 
Endive {     diye  j-Endivie 

Fig Figuier Feige 

Filbert Noisette Nussbaum 

Garlic Ail Knoblauch 

Gooseberry      ....  Groseiller  a  Maquereau      .  Stachelbeere 

Grape Vigne Traube  and  Weintrauben    . 

Horseradish     ....  Cranson  or  le  Grand  Raifort  Meerrettig 

Kohlrabi    or    Turnip-  j  „,  -^  , ,  ,,  ,  . 

1    \  Chou-rave Kohl  Rabi 

cabbage    .    .    .    .    > 

i  Geineiner  Lauch  or  Porro  j 

Leek Poireau 1     Zwiebe f 

Lemon    .  .  Limonier Limonie 


f 


v  OF  THE 

5ITY 


NAMES,  HISTORIES,  AND  CLASSIFICATION.      243 


tables  in  Various  Languages. 

Dutch. 

Amandelboom 
Appelboom      . 
Abrikozenboom 
Artisjok .    .     . 


Italian* 

,  Mandorlo  .  .  .  . 
Melo  or  Pomu  .  . 
Aibicocco  .... 
Carciofo  . 


Aspergie Asparago  or  Sparagio 

Bananeboom    ....  Banana      .    .    . 


.  Almendro. 
.  Manzana. 
.  Albaricoque. 
.  Cinauco. 
.  Esparrago. 


Boon  .  ....  Fava 


Haba. 


Turksche  Boon  .  . 
Beetwortel  or  Karoot 
Barbarisse  .... 
Aalbessenboom  .  . 
Grone  Kool  .  .  . 
Scotsche  Kool .  .  . 
Spruit  Kool  .  .  . 

Kool 

Spaansche  Artisjok  . 
Gerle  Wortel  .  .  . 
Bloem  Kool  .  .  . 

Selderij 

Keresenboom  .     .     . 

Suikerei 

Tuinkers  .... 
"Waterkers  .... 
Winterkers  .  .  . 
Komkommer  .  .  . 
Dolappel  .... 


Fagiuolo Judias  and  Fasoles. 

Barba  bietola Betarraga. 

Berberi  or  Crespino    .     .     .  Berberis. 

Kibes  nero Grosella  negro. 

Cavolo  verzotto  or  Verza     .  Col. 

Broccoli Broculi. 

Cavolo  di  Bruxelles    .     .     . 

Cavolo Berza. 

Cardo Cardo. 

Carota Chirivia. 

Cavoli  fiori Berza  florida. 

Sedano Appio  hortense. 

Ciriegia Cerezo. 

Cicoria Achicoria. 

Crescione Mastuerzo. 

Crescione  di  Sorgenti      .     .  Berro. 

Erba  di  Santa  Barbarea  .     .  Hierba  de  Santa  Barbbara. 

Citriuolo Pepino  or  Cohombro. 

Melanzana Berengena. 

Indivia .  .  Endivia. 


Vijgeuboom  .  .  . 
Hazelnotenboom  .  . 
Knoflook  .... 
Kruisbessenboom 

.  Fico  
.  Avellano  or  Noccinolo 
.  Aglio  
.  Uva-spina  .... 

.     .  Higuera. 
.     .  Avellano. 
.     .  Ajo. 
.  Uva-crespas. 

Druif  

Earnmenas  . 

.  Vite  

.    .  Vina. 

Look  or  Prei 
Limoenboom 


Porro Puerro. 

Limone  .  Limon. 


*  The  Italian  names  have  been  revised  for  the  third  edition  by  Dr.  Aser  Poll, 
of  the  Institute  Tecnico,  Piacenza,  Italy. 


244 


HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 


Names  of  Fruits  and  Vegetables  in 


English. 

Lettuce 

Melon,  Musk  .  .  . 
Mint,  Common  .  . 
Mulberry  .... 
Mushroom  .... 

Mustard 

Nectarine    .... 

Olive 

Onion 

Orange    

Orach 

Parsley 

Parsnip 

Pea 

Peach 

Pear 

Pepper,  Red  or  Chile 
Pine-apple  .... 

Plum  ...... 

Pomegranate  .     .     . 

Potato 

Pumpkin  or  Gourd  . 

Quince 

Radish 

Rape 

Red  Currant  .  .  . 
Rhubarb 


Salsify     .    .  . 

Savoy      .    .  . 

Sea-kale.    .  . 

Spinach  .    .  . 

Strawberry .  . 
Sweet  Chestnut 

Thyme    .    .  . 


French. 

.  Laitue 

.Melon 

.  Menthe  dea  jardins    .     .     . 

.  Murier 

.  Champignon  comestible     . 

.  Moutarde 

.  Peche  lisse 

.  Olivier 

.  Oignon 

.  Granger 

.  Arroche 

.  Persil  ........ 

.  Panais 

.  Pols 

.  Pecher 

.  Poirier 

.  Piment 

.  Ananas 

.  Prunier 

.  Grenadier 

.  Pomine  de  Terre  .     .     .    . 

.  Courge      

.  Coignassier 

.  Radis  and  Rave     .    .    .    . 

.  Navette 

.  Groseiller  commun    .     .    . 
.  Rhubarbe     ...... 

.  Sauge . 

.  Salsifis 

j  Chou  de  Milan  or  poinme  \ 

I     fraise j 

.  Chou  inarin  and  Crambe    . 

.  Epinard 

.  Fraisier 

.  Chataignier  and  Marronier 
.  Thym 


German. 
Gartensalat  and  Lattich 

Melone 

Munze 

Maulbeere 

Essbare   Blatterschwamme 

Senf 

Nectarpfirsch 

Oelbaum  and  Olive    .    .    . 

Zwiebel 

Pomeranze 

Meldekraut 

Peterailie 

Pastinake 

Erbse  

Pfirsiche 

Birne 

Spanischer  Pfeffer .... 

Ananas 

Pflaume 

Granatenbaum 

Kartoffel 

Kurbis 

Quitte 

Rettig  and  Radios .... 

Repskohl 

Gemeine  Johanuisbeere      . 

Rhabarber 

Salbey 

Haferwurzel  and  Bocksbart 

"Wirsing  or  Herzkohl .     .     . 

Meerkohl 

Spinat 

Erdbeer 

Castanien 

Thimian    . 


Tomato Tomate Liebesapfel 


Turnip  .  .  . 
Walnut  .  .  . 
White  Currant 
Watermelon  . 


Navet 

Noyer 

Groseiller  commun 
Melon  d'Eau     , 


.  Rube 

.  Wallnuss 

.  Gemeine  Johannisbeere 
.  Wassermelone  . 


NAMES,  HISTORIES,  AND  CLASSIFICATION.      245 


Various  Languages.  —  Continued. 

Dutch.  Italian.  Spanish. 

Latouw Lattuga Lechuga. 

Meloen Mellone  and  Popone  .     .     .  Melon. 

Hunt Menta Menta. 

Moerbezieboom    .     .     .  Moro  or  Gelso Moral. 

Kampernoelio  ....  Pratajuolo  bianco  ....  Seta. 

Mosterd Senapa Mostaza. 

Kale  Perzik     ....  Pesche  noci  or  Nettarine     .  Especie  de  Durazno. 

OHjfboom Ulivo Olivo. 

Uijen Cipolla Cebolla. 

Oranjeboom     ....  Arancio Naranja. 

Melde Atreplice Armuelle. 

Pieterselie Prezzemolo Perejil. 

Pinksternakel ....  Pastinaca Chlrivia  and  Pastinaca, 

Erwt Pisello Guisante. 

Perzikboom     ....  Pesco Alberchigo. 

Perenboom      ....  Pero Pera. 

Spaansche  Peper  .    .     .  Peperone Pimiento. 

Ananas Ananasso Pina. 

Prufnboom Susino Ciruelo. 

Granaatbooin  ....  Melagrano .  Granada. 

Aardappel Patata Batatas  Inglezas. 

KauwOrde Zucca Calabaza. 

Kweeboora Cotogno Membrillo. 

Radijs     ......  Ravanello  or  Kadice   .    .    .  Rabano. 

Rapskool Rapa  selvatica Naba  silvestre. 

Aalbessenboom    .     .     .  Ribes  rosso Grosella. 

Rabarber Rabarbaro Ruibarbo. 

Salie Salvia Salvia. 

Boksbaard Sassifica Barba  Cabruna. 

Savojie  Kool    ....  Cappuccio Berza  de  Saboya. 

Zeekool Crambe  marina Col  marina. 

Spinazie Spinacio Espinaca. 

Aardbezienplaut  .     .     .  Fragola Fresa. 

Kastanjeboom      .     .     .  Castagno Castano. 

Gemeene  Thyne  .     .     .  Timo Tomillo. 

(  Appeltjes  der  liefde  )  _ 

J.  !•  Pomodoro Tomate. 

I      and  Tomaat  .     .     ) 

Raap Rapa Nabo. 

Walnotenbooin    .     .     .  Noce Noguera. 

Aalbessenboom    .     .     .  Ribes  rosso Grosella. 

Cocomero  or  Anguria     .     .  Sandia. 


246 


3.  Emblematic  Flowers. 

NATIONAL    FLOWERS. 

Canada      .......  Sugar  maple. 

China Narcissus. 

Egypt Lotus  (Nymphcea  Lotus}. 

England Rose. 

France Fleur-de-lis  (7ns). 

Germany Corn-fLower  (Centaurea  Cyanus}. 

Greece  (Athens)     ....  Violet. 

Ireland Shamrock  (Trifolium,  usually 

T.  repens}. 

Italy Lily. 

Japan Chrysanthemum. 

Prussia Linden. 

Saxony Mignonette. 

Scotland Thistle. 

Spain ^ .     .  Pomegranate. 

Wales *.     .  Leek. 

PARTY    FLOWERS. 

Beaconsfield's  followers Primrose. 

Bonapartists Violet. 

Ghibellines White  lily. 

Guelphs Red  lily. 

Prince  of  Orange The  orange. 

STATE    FLOWERS. 

(Adopted  by  Legislatures  and  State  Horticultural  Societies.} 

Alabama Goldenrod. 

California California  poppy,  or  Eschscholtzia. 

Minnesota Moccasin-flower,  or  Cypripedium. 

Oregon Oregon  grape  (Berber is  Aquifolium} . 

Washington   ....  Rhododendron  (E.  Calif ornicum} . 


NAMES,  HISTORIES,  AND  CLASSIFICATION.       247 

4.   Derivation  of  the  Names  of  Various  Fruits  and  Vegetables 
A.   FRUITS. 

Apple.  —  Anglo-Saxon,  ceppel. 

Apricot.  —  Indirectly  from  Latin  prcecoquum,  early-ripe. 

Blackberry.  — From  the  color  of  the  fruit. 

Cherry. — Anglo-Saxon,  cirse. 

Cranberry.  —  Crane-berry,   from  the  slender  pedicel  of  the 

European  species. 
Currant.  —  Corruption  of  Corinth,  Greece,  whence  came  the 

"dried    currants"    (grapes),    which    were    once    called 

Corinths. 
Gooseberry.  — Probably  from  groseberry  or  groiseberry,  from 

Old  French  groisele,  the  currant  and  gooseberry. 
Grape.  —  French,  grappe  ;  allied  to  the  word  grapple. 
Lemon.  —  French,  limon,  indirectly  from  the  Arabic. 
Mulberry.  —  German,  mulber,  indirectly  from  Latin  morus,  a 

mulberry  tree. 
Nectarine.  —  Nectar-like. 

Orange.  —  From  the  Arabic,  through  the  French. 
Peach.  —  Corruption  of  Persia,  whence  the  fruit  was  early 

obtained. 

Pear.  —  Pirum,  the  Latin  name. 
Plum.  — Anglo-Saxon,  plume;  indirectly  from  Latin  prunum, 

a  plum. 
Quince.  —  Corruption    of    Cydonia,    the    Latin    name,   from 

Cydon. 

Raspberry.  —  From  rasp,  referring  to  the  prickles. 
Strawberry.  —  In  early  times  the  berries  were    strung    on 

straws  when  sold.     This  is  a  folk-explanation,  but  is  erro- 
neous.    Evidently  associated  with  Latin  fragum,  fragrant, 

B.  VEGETABLES. 

Artichoke.  — Italian,  articiocco  ;  indirectly  from  the  Arabic. 
Asparagus.  —  The  Latin  name,  from  the  Greek. 
Bean.  —  The  Anglo-Saxon  name. 


248          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

Beet.  — Latin,  beta,  the  beet-plant. 

Cabbage.  — French,  cabus,  from  the  Latin  caput,  a  head. 

Carrot.  —  French,  carotte,  from  Latin  carota,  the  carrot. 

Brussels  sprouts.  —  From  Brussels,  Belgium. 

Cauliflower.  — Latin,  caulis,  stem,  and  flower. 

Celery. — Latin,  selinon,  parsley. 

Chervil.  —Anglo-Saxon,  cerfille,  indirectly  from  a  Greek  com- 
bination signifying  "  pleasant  leaf." 

Chives  or  Gives.  —  Latin,  cepa,  onion. 

Corn.  —  Anglo-Saxon,  corn. 

Cress.  —Old  German,  kresan,  to  creep. 

Cucumber.  —  Latin,  cucumis. 

Egg-plant.  —  From  the  egg-shaped  fruit  of  some  varieties. 

Endive.  —  French,  endive,  indirectly  from  the  Latin  intubus, 
the  endive  or  chicory. 

Garlic.  —  Anglo-Saxon,  gar  and  leak,  spear-leaf,  referring  to 
the  shape  and  position  of  the  leaves. 

Gumbo.  —  Portuguese,  quingombo,  from  quillobo,  an  African 
name. 

Horseradish.  —  Refers,  evidently,  to  the  strong  and  pungent 
character  of  the  roots  by  reference  to  the  strength  of  the 
horse. 

Kohlrabi.  —  Corruption  of  the  Latin  caulo-rapa,  stem-turnip. 

Leek.  — Anglo-Saxon,  leac  or  leak. 

Lettuce.  —  Latin,  lactuca,  the  lettuce  ;  from  lac,  milk,  refer- 
ring to  the  milky  juice  of  the  plant. 

Melon.  —  Latin,  melo,  a  certain  small  melon. 

Mushroom.  —  French,  mousseron,  alluding  to  mousse,  or  moss, 
in  which  some  mushrooms  grow. 

Mustard.  — French,  mustarde,  from  Latin  mustum,  the  must, 
with  which  mustard  was  mixed. 

Onion. — French,  oignon ;  indirectly  from  Latin  unus,  one, 
unis,  oneness,  in  allusion  to  a  plant  of  which  the  bulb  was 
formed  in  one  piece. 

Parsley.  —  From  a  Greek  combination  meaning  "  rock-pars- 
ley," a  parsley-like  plant. 

Parsnip.  —  Latin,  pastinaca. 


NAMES,  HISTORIES,  AND  CLASSIFICATION.      249 

Pea.  — French,  pois,  from  Latin  pisum,  the  pea. 

Pepper,  Red.  —  Latin,  piper,  the  true  pepper  or  black  pepper, 
with  which  the  present  plant  is  compared  in  pungency. 

Potato.  —  Spanish  and  Portuguese,  batata,  an  aboriginal 
American  name.  First  applied  to  the  sweet-potato. 

Pumpkin.  —  French,  pompion,  from  Latin  pepo,  a  pumpkin- 
like  fruit. 

Radish.  —  Latin,  radix,  root. 

Rhubarb.  — French,  rhubarbe  ;  probably  indirectly  from  Latin 
barbarus,  foreign. 

Sage.  —  Latin,  salvus,  saved,  evidently  in  allusion  to  medicinal 
properties  of  the  plant. 

Salsify. — French,  salsifis. 

Spinach  or  Spinage. — Latin,  spinacia,  spinach,  from  spina, 
a  thorn,  in  reference  to  the  prickly  character  of  the  plant. 

Squash.  —  American  Indian,  asquash,  a  raw  or  green  fruit. 

Tomato.  —  Tomate,  of  South  American  origin. 

Turnip.  —  Probably  Welsh  turn,  round,  and  maip,  turnip. 

5.   Periods  of  Cultivation  and  Native  Countries  of  Cultivated 
Plants. 

(Adapted  from  researches  of  De  Candolle,  and  Gray  and  Trumbull.) 

Almond.  —  Over  4000  years;  Mediterranean  basin,  western 

temperate  Asia. 
Apple. — Over  4000  years;   Europe,  Anatolia,  south  of  the 

Caucasus. 

Apricot.  —  Over  4000  years  ;  China. 
Artichoke.  — Less  than  2000  years  ;  Europe,  Africa,  Canaries, 

and  Madeira. 
Asparagus.  —  Over  2000  years;  Europe,  western  temperate 

Asia. 

Banana.  —  Over  4000  years  ;  southern  Asia. 
Barley,  Common.  —  (?);  western  temperate  Africa. 
Bean.  —  Over  4000  years  ;    unknown  wild.     Probably  North 

America. 
Bean,  Broad.  —  Over  4000  years  ;  south  of  the  Caspian  (?). 


250          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

Bean,  Lima.  —  About  500  years  ;  South  America. 
Blackberry.  —  About  40  years  ;  North  America. 
Buckwheat.  —  Less  than  2000  years  ;  Mandschuria,  central 

Siberia. 
Buckwheat,    Tartarian.  —  Less  than  2000  years ;  Tartary, 

Siberia  to  Dahuria. 

Cabbage.  —  Over  4000  years  ;  Europe. 
Carrot. — Over  2000  years;  Europe,  western  temperate  Asia 

(?)• 
Celery.  —  Over  2000  years  ;  Europe,  Asia,  and  Africa. 

Cherry.  —  More  than  2000  years  ;  temperate  Europe  and  Asia. 

Chestnut.  —  (?);  from  Portugal  to  Caspian  Sea,  eastern  Al- 
geria. 

Chives.  —  Less  than  2000  years ;  temperate  and  northern 
Europe. 

Citron.  —  Over  2000  years  ;  India. 

Corn-salad.  —  Less  than  2000  years  ;  Sardinia,  Sicily, 

Cotton,  Herbaceous.  —  Over  2000  years ;  India. 

Cranberry.  —  About  50  years ;  North  America. 

Cress.  —Over  2000  years  ;  Persia  (?). 

Cucumber.  —  Over  4000  years  ;  India. 

Currant,  Black.  —  Less  than  2000  years ;  Europe,  western 
Himalayas. 

Currant,  Red.  —  Less  than  2000  years ;  Europe  to  Himalayas. 

Date-palm.  —  Over  4000  years  ;  western  Asia  and  Africa. 

Egg-plant.  —  Over  4000  years  ;  India. 

Endive.  — Less  than  2000  years ;  Mediterranean  basin. 

Fig.  —  Over  4000  years  ;  south  of  Mediterranean  basin. 

Garlic.  —  Over  2000  years  ;  desert  of  the  Kirghis. 

Gooseberry.  —  Less  than  2000  years ;  temperate  Europe, 
western  Himalayas.  Houghton  and  Downing  are  from  a 
native  species. 

Grape.  —  European  or  wine  grape  (the  grape  of  history),  over 
4000  years ;  western  Asia  and  Mediterranean  basin. 
American  grapes  are  natives,  and  have  come  into  cultiva- 
tion within  this  century. 

Hop.  —  Less  than  2000  years  j  Europe,  Asia,  United  States. 


NAMES,  HISTORIES,  AND  CLASSIFICATION.      251 

Horseradish. — Less  than  2000  years;  eastern  temperate 
Europe. 

Jerusalem  Artichoke.  —  Probably  ancient ;  United  States. 

Kaki.  —  Ancient ;  Japan  and  China. 

Leek. — Over  2000  years  ;  Mediterranean  basin. 

Lemon.  —  More  than  2000  years  ;  India  or  China. 

Lettuce.  — Over  2000  years  ;  Europe,  Asia,  and  Africa. 

Maize.  —  Very  ancient ;  New  Granada  (?). 

Melon,  Musk.  —  Less  than  2000  years  ;  India,  Beluchistan, 
Guinea. 

Mushroom.  —  Less  than  2000  years ;  Northern  hemisphere. 

Oats.  — Over  2000  years  ;  temperate  Europe. 

Okra.  — Less  than  2000  years  ;  tropical  Africa. 

Olive.  —  More  than  4000  years  ;  Syria,  etc. 

Onion.  —  Over  4000  years  ;  Persia,  Afghanistan,  Beluchistan, 
Palestine  (?). 

Onion,  Welsh.  —  Less  than  2000  years  ;  Siberia. 

Orach. — Less  than  2000  years  ;  northern  Europe  and  Siberia. 

Orange.  —  Less  than  2000  years  in  Europe ;  probably  ancient 
far  East ;  China. 

Parsley.  —  Less  than  2000  years;  Europe,  Algeria,  and  Leb- 
anon. 

Parsnip.  — Less  than  2000  years  ;  central  and  southern  Europe. 

Pea.  — Over  2000  years  ;  Caucasus  to  Persia  (?),  India  (?). 

Peach.  —  Over  4000  years  ;  China. 

Pear.  —  Over  4000  years  ;  temperate  Europe  and  Asia. 

Pepper.  —  Over  500  years  ;  Brazil  (?). 

Pineapple.  —  Over  500  years  ;  Mexico,  Central  America. 

Plum.  —  Over  2000  years  ;  Anatolia,  north  of  Persia.  There  are 
also  many  varieties  of  native  species. 

Pomegranate.  —  More  than  4000  years ;  Persia,  etc. 

Potato.  —  Over  500  years  ;  Chile,  Peru. 

Pumpkin  and  Squash.  —  Over  500  years  ;  temperate  North 
America. 

Quince.  —Over  4000  years  ;  north  of  Persia,  south  of  the  Cau- 
casus, Anatolia. 

Radish.  —  Over  2000  years  ;  temperate  Asia. 


252          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

Rampion.  —  Less  than  2000  years ;  temperate  and  southern 
Europe. 

Rape. — Over  4000  years;  Europe,  western  Siberia  (?). 

Raspberry. — The  European  raspberry  (represented  by  the 
Antwerp  and  Fontenay),  less  than  2000  years  ;  Europe 
and  Asia.  Our  common  red  and  black  raspberries  are 
natives,  and  have  come  into  cultivation  within  the  last  40 
years. 

Rice.  —  Over  4000  years  ;  India,  southern  China. 

Rye.  — Over  2000  years;  eastern  temperate  Europe  (?),  south- 
east of  Europe,  Algeria. 

Salsify. — Less  than  2000  years  (?)  ;  southeastern  Europe, 
Algeria. 

Scorzonera.  — Less  than  2000  years  ;  south  western"  Europe. 

Sea-kale.  — Less  than  2000  years  ;  western  temperate  Europe. 

Shaddock.  —  Over  2000  years  ;  Pacific  Islands. 

Shallot.  —  Less  than  2000  years  ;  unknown,  wild. 

Sorghum.  —  Over  4000  years  ;  tropical  Africa  (?). 

Spinach.  —Less  than  2000  years  ;  Persia  (?). 

Strawberry.  — Less  than  300  years  ;  Chile. 

Sunflower.  —  Very  ancient ;  United  States. 

Sweet  Potato.  —  Very  ancient ;  tropical  America. 

Tobacco.  —  Ancient ;  South  America. 

Tomato.  —  Over  500  years  ;  Peru. 

Turnip.  —  Over  4000  years  ;  Europe,  western  Siberia  (?) 

Watermelon.  —  Over  4000  years  ;  tropical  Africa. 

Wheat.  —  Over  4000  years  ;  region  of  the  Euphrates. 

6.   Statistics  of  the  Vegetable  Kingdom. 

There  are  200  natural  families  or  orders  of  flowering  plants, 
about  7600  genera,  and  over  100,000  species  are  known  and 
described.  The  flowerless  plants  are  much  more  numerous 
than  the  flowering  plants,  both  in  individuals  and  species. 
Ferns,  mosses,  mushrooms,  and  many  smaller  or  even  micro- 
scopic fungi,  lichens,  and  seaweeds  are  flowerless  plants. 

The  Ranunculacese  or  Crowfoot  family  includes   over  1200 


NAMES,  HISTORIES,  AND  CLASSIFICATION.       253 

species  of  plants,  inhabiting  all  parts  of  the  world.  The  clem- 
atis, marsh-marigold  or  so-called  cowslip,  columbine,  adonis, 
buttercup,  Christmas  rose,  love-in-a-mist,  larkspur,  aconite, 
and  peony  are  members  of  the  Crowfoot  family.  The  family 
comprises  30  genera. 

There  are  about  100  species  of  clematis  known. 

About  40  distinct  species  of  delphinium  or  larkspur  are 
described,  few  of  which  are  cultivated. 

It  is  thought  that  there  are  about  a  half-dozen  true  species 
of  peonies  known,  although  many  supposed  species  have  been 
described. 

The  Magnolia  family  comprises  about  70  species  of  trees  and 
shrubs.  Of  these,  14  are  magnolias  proper,  of  which  6  or  7 
are  native  of  Japan,  China,  or  the  Himalaya  region,  and  the 
remainder  are  North  American.  The  tulip  tree,  of  which  but 
a  single  species  is  known,  belongs  to  this  order. 

The  Nymphseacese  or  Water-lily  family  contains  8  genera 
and  about  35  species,  all  aquatic.  The  largest  genus  is 
nymphsea — by  some  called  castalia  —  comprising  some  20 
species. 

The  Mustard  family,  Cruciferse,  comprises  probably  about 
2000  species,  many  of  which  are  grown  for  food  and  ornament. 
The  cabbage,  cauliflower,  turnip,  kohlrabi,  radish,  horseradish, 
sea-kale,  cresses,  and  mustards  are  the  leading  edible  species, 
while  the  stocks,  alyssum,  wallflower,  honesty  or  lunaria  are 
among  the  ornamental  species.  There  are  over  175  genera  in 
the  order. 

The  Violet  family  comprises  about  250  species,  generally  dis- 
tributed over  the  world.  Of  theser  about  200  are  violets.  The 
order  includes  21  genera.  Some  of  the  species,  outside  of  viola 
proper,  are  shrubs  or  small  trees. 

The  Caryophyllacese  or  Pink  family  has  about  1000  species 
and  35  genera.  The  ornamental  genera  are  dianthus,  including 
the  pinks  and  carnation,  saponaria,  silene,  lychnis,  and  a  few 
others  of  less  importance.  Dianthus,  literally  "  Jove's  flower," 
numbers  some  200  species.  The  corn-cockle  and  catchflies 
belong  to  this  family. 


254          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE -BOOK. 

The  Mallow  family,  Malvaceae,  has  about  60  genera  and  700 
species.  The  best-known  genera  are  althaea,  the  hollyhock ; 
malva,  the  mallows ;  hibiscus ;  abutilon ;  and  gossypium,  the 
cotton. 

The  Basswoods  or  Lindens  are  8  in  number,  growing  in 
northern  temperate  climates.  Three  are  natives  of  North 
America.  Tiliaceae,  the  Basswood  family,  comprises  40  genera 
and  about  330  species. 

Some  50  species  of  maples  are  known,  inhabiting  Europe, 
Asia,  and  America.  Nine  or  10  grow  naturally  in  North 
America.  The  Sapindacese,  to  which  family  the  maple  belongs, 
is  largely  tropical.  It  comprises  over  70  genera,  and  600  or  700 
species.  ^Esculus,  the  horse-chestnuts,  belong  here,  and  are 
about  14  in  number. 

The  Legurninosse  or  Pulse  family  is  one  of  the  most  im- 
portant orders  of  plants.  It  furnishes  many  foods,  fine  woods, 
dyes,  medicines,  and  ornamental  plants.  Many  of  the  species 
are  extremely  important  in  agriculture  because  of  the  great 
amount  of  nitrogen  they  contain.  Peas,  beans,  clover,  locusts, 
acacias,  sensitive  plant,  belong  to  this  family.  It  comprises 
about  400  genera  and  6500  species. 

The  Rosacese  or  Rose  family  may  be  called  the  fruit  family 
of  the  north  temperate  zone.  Apples,  pears,  quinces,  June- 
berries,  strawberries,  blackberries,  raspberries,  peaches,  plums, 
apricots,  almonds,  cherries,  all  belong  here.  Prunus,  which 
includes  the  stone  fruits,  has  about  100  species  in  various  parts 
of  the  world,  and  25  are  North  American.  Pyrus,  including 
apple,  pear,  quince,  and  mountain-ash,  has  about  40  species,  of 
which  9  are  in  North  America.  Of  roses,  over  250  have  been 
described,  but  late  authorities  consider  that  there  are  only 
about  30  good  species.  Of  strawberries,  there  are  3  or  4  species 
and  of  spireas  about  50.  The  whole  family  has  about  1000 
species  and  70  genera. 

Vitis,  the  grape  and  its  allies,  has  some  230  species.  There 
are  two  or  three  other  genera,  and  about  a  score  of  other  species 
in  the  family,  Vitacese  or  Ampelidese,  to  which  it  belongs. 

The  Cucurbitacese  includes  the  squashes,  pumpkins,  cucum- 


NAMES,  HISTORIES,  AND  CLASSIFICATION.      255 

bers,  melons,  and  gourds.  The  species  are  about  500  in  number, 
and  are  mostly  tropical  or  subtropical.  Some  25  species  are  de- 
scribed as  cucumis,  to  which  the  cucumber  and  muskmelon 
belong,  and  2  as  citrullus  or  watermelon.  The  pumpkins  and 
squashes  belong  to  cucurbita,  of  which  about  10  species  are 
known,  several  of  them  perennials.  The  family  comprises 
about  70  genera. 

About  350  species  of  begonia  are  known. 

Of  cacti,  there  are  about  1000  species  and  13  genera,  all  but 
one  species  native  of  the  New  World. 

Umbelliferse,  comprising  over  150  genera  and  about  1300 
species,  includes  the  parsnip,  parsley,  carrot,  celery,  caraway, 
anise,  dill,  and  others.  In  Africa  some  of  the  species  attain  to 
the  size  of  trees. 

About  one-ninth  of  all  flowering  plants  are  comprised  in  the 
Composite  or  Sunflower  family.  It  is  by  far  the  largest  order, 
containing  nearly  800  genera  and  about  10,000  species.  Very 
few  of  the  species  furnish  esculent  parts  ;  the  leading  ones  are 
lettuce,  endive,  chicory,  artichoke,  cardoon,  and  salsify.  But 
the  family  comprises  great  numbers  of  ornamental  plants,  of 
which  the  leading  one  at  the  present  time  is  the  chrysanthemum. 
A  very  few  of  the  species  become  small  shrubs. 

The  Heath  family,  Ericaceae,  includes  the  heaths,  heather  of 
Europe,  wintergreen,  whortleberries  or  huckleberries,  cranber- 
ries, azaleas,  rhododendrons,  and  laurels.  Certain  white  and 
flesh-colored  parasitic  plants  also  belong  to  it,  as  the  Indian- 
pipe  and  the  snow  plant  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  About  80 
genera  and  over  1300  species  are  known. 

The  Primulas  belong  to  the  Primulacese  or  Primrose  family, 
and  they  number  some  80  or  more  species,  many  of  which  are 
cultivated.  The  genus  primula  is  commonly  divided  by  florists 
into  auriculas,  polyanthuses,  and  primroses.  One  of  the  prim- 
ulas is  the  true  cowslip.  Primulaceae  has  about  20  genera  and 
250  species. 

Oleaceee,  a  family  of  18  genera  and  nearly  300  species,  in- 
cludes the  jasmine,  forsythias,  lilacs,  ashes,  privet,  and  olive.  A 
dozen  species  of  fraxinus,  or  ash,  are  native  of  North  America. 


256 


There  are  about  120  species  of  jasminum  or  jasmine,  2  of 
forsythia,  6  or  more  of  syringa  or  lilac,  over  30  of  fraxinus, 
about  25  of  ligustrum  or  privet,  and  35  of  olea  or  olive. 

The  Convolvulus  or  Morning-glory  family,  Convolvulacese, 
has  some  800  species,  some  of  which  are  trees,  and  32  genera. 
The  dodders,  peculiar  parasitic  plants,  of  which  several  are 
natives  of  the  United  States,  belong  here,  as  does  also  the 
sweet  potato. 

There  are  about  30  species  of  Phlox  described,  nearly  all  na- 
tives of  North  America.  The  common  Phlox  Drummondii  is  a- 
native  of  Texas.  These  plants,  with  cobsea,  polemonium, 
gilia,  and  some  other  genera,  belong  to  the  family  Polemoniacese. 

Solanaceae  is  a  large  and  important  order,  containing  many 
esculent  plants  and  many  poisons.  Here  belong  the  potato, 
tomato,  egg-plant,  red  pepper,  and  strawberry  or  husk  tomato  ; 
also  tobacco,  belladonna,  and  nightshade.  There  are  66  genera 
and  from  1200  to  1500  species.  The  genus  solanum  alone,  to 
which  the  potato  and  egg-plant  belong,  contains  from  700  to 
900  species.  Lycopersicum,  the  tomato  genus,  has  about  a 
half  dozen  species. 

There  are  about  140  genera  and  2600  species  in  the  Labiatse 
or  Mint  family.  The  order  comprises  a  few  tree-like  and  a  few 
climbing  plants.  The  species  are  aromatic,  and  most  of  our 
cultivated  sweet  herbs,  and  all  the  mints,  belong  to  the  family. 
It  comprises  many  ornamental  species,  among  the  most  promi- 
nent being  species  of  coleus,  of  which  about  50  species  are  de- 
scribed. 

The  Nettle  family  or  Urticacese  comprises  many  dissimilar 
plants.  Here  belong  the  nettles,  mulberry,  fig,  bread-fruit, 
hackberry,  osage-orange,  elm,  hemp,  and  hop.  The  family  has 
hi  the  neighborhood  of  1500  species,  and  the  accepted  genera  are 
108.  Five  elms  and  2  mulberries  are  native  to  North  America, 
and  3  wild  figs  grow  in  southern  Florida. 

Five  genera  and  about  30  species  belong  to  the  Juglandacese 
or  Walnut  family.  All  the  hickories,  8  or  10,  are  natives  of 
North  America.  There  are  2  walnuts  and  1  butternut  in  the 
United  States. 


NAMES,  HISTORIES,  AND  CLASSIFICATION.      257 

Cupuliferae,  the  Oak  family,  numbers  400  species  and  10  gen- 
era. It  gives  us  the  oaks,  about  300  in  the  world  and  44  in  the 
United  States  ;  chestnuts,  beeches,  hazels,  and  filberts,  birches, 
alder,  hornbeam,  and  ironwood.  The  United  States  has  2 
chestnuts,  1  beech,  about  8  birches,  and  6  alders. 

Orchidaceae,  the  Orchid  family,  includes  some  5000  singular 
herbs,  distributed  through  334  genera.  Many  of  the  species  are 
epiphytes,  that  is,  growing  above  ground  on  other  plants.  The 
species  are  the  most  specialized,  perhaps,  of  any  order,  and  they 
are  usually  uncommon  or  rare.  A  number  of  showy  species 
grow  in  the  United  States,  the  best  known  of  which  are  the  lady- 
slippers.  Our  species  usually  inhabit  bogs  or  deep  woods. 

Iridacese,  the  Iris  family,  comprises  many  showy  garden 
plants;  as,  iris,  gladiolus,  sparaxis,  tritonia  or  montbretia, 
babiana,  ixia,  crocus,  tigridia,  and  the  like.  The  family  in- 
cludes about  60  genera  and  700  species. 

The  Amaryllis  family,  Amaryllidacese,  includes  many  lily-like 
plants,  such  as  nerine  or  guernsey  lily,  vallota,  narcissus,  galan- 
thus,  leucoium,  hippeastrum,  crinum,  agave,  polianthes  or 
tuberose,  eucharis,  etc.  About  700  species  and  64  genera  are 
included  in  the  family. 

Over  2000  species,  in  187  genera,  comprise  Liliacese,  or  the 
Lily  family.  Some  of  the  species  are  tree-like.  Here  belong 
the  onion,  asparagus,  tulip,  aloes,  yuccas,  hellebore,  and  many 
choice  ornamental  plants.  Of  lilies,  there  are  about  50  species, 
tulips  in  the  neighborhood  of  50,  and  of  hyacinths  about  30. 

The  Palm  family,  Palmse,  includes  1100  or  more  species  and 
132  genera.  Many  species  produce  edible  fruits,  the  best  known 
in  our  markets  being  the  date  and  the  cocoanut. 

The  GramineaB  or  Grass- family  is  the  most  important  order  of 
plants  to  the  agriculturist.  Besides  all  the  grasses,  it  furnishes 
all  the  cereal  grains,  including  Indian  corn  and  the  sugar-cane. 
Genera  about  300  ;  species  more  than  3000. 

The  Pine  or  Spruce  family  is  known  as  the  Conif  erae,  or  cone- 
bearing  family.  It  includes  plants  of  very  dissimilar  kinds. 
Most  of  the  species  have  needle-like  and  evergreen  leaves,  but 
some  are  deciduous,  and  the  gingko  has  broad  and  flat  leaves. 

8 


258          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

There  are  more  than  30  genera  and  about  300  species  In  the 
family.  Of  pines  there  are  about  70,  and  35  of  them  are  native 
to  the  United  States. 

There  are  about  74  genera  of  ferns  or  Filices,  and  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  2400  species.  Some  of  the  species  attain  to  the  size  of 
small  trees. 

7.  Classification  of  Horticulture. 

(Bailey,  Annals  of  Horticulture,  1891.) 

I.   POMOLOGY,  the  art  and  science  of  growing  fruit. 

1.  Viticulture,  or  Grape-Growing. 

2.  Orchard  Culture,  comprising: 

Pomaceous  fruits ;  Drupaceous  or  Stone  fruits ; 
Citrous  fruits  ;  Nut  fruits  (Nuciculture)  ;  Palma- 
ceous fruits ;  and  others. 

3.  Small- Fruit  Culture,  comprising: 

Bush  fruits  (raspberry,  blackberry,  dewberry,  cur- 
rant, gooseberry,  juneberry,  and  others) ;  Straw- 
berries. 

4.  Cranberry  Culture. 

II.  OLERICULTURE,  the  art  and  science  of  growing  kitchen- 
garden  vegetables.  Comprises  the  following  groups  or 
esculents : 

Radicaceous  (potatoes  and  root  crops) ;  Brassicaceous 
(cabbage-like  plants);  Alliaceous  (onion-like  plants); 
Spinaceous  and  Acetariaceous  (salad  and  salad-like 
plants);  Asparagaceous  (asparagus,  chicory,  sea-kale 
and  the  like) ;  Leguminaceous  (peas  and  beans) ;  Cucur- 
bitaceous  (melons,  cucumbers,  squashes);  Solanaceous 
(red  peppers,  tomatoes,  egg-plants)  ;  Aromatic  esculents 
and  sweet  herbs  ;  Cryptogamic  esculents  (mushrooms). 

III.  FLORICULTURE,  the  art  and  science  of  cultivating  orna- 

mental plants  for  their  individual  uses. 

IV.  LANDSCAPE-HORTICULTURE,  the  art  and  science  of  growing 

ornamental  plants,  especially  trees  and  shrubs,  for  their 
uses  in  the  landscape.  Generally  confounded  with 
landscape-gardening. 


CHAPTER   XXI. 

ELEMENTS,   SYMBOLS,  AND  ANALYSES. 

i.  The  Elements  and  their  Symbols,  and  the  Composition  of 
Various  Substances. 


Aluminium  ....  Al. 

Antimony     ....  Sb. 

Arsenic As. 

Barium Ba. 

Bismuth Bi. 

Boron B. 

Bromine Br. 

Cadmium      ....  Cd. 

Caesium Cs. 

Calcium Ca. 

Carbon C. 

Cerium Ce. 

Chlorine Cl. 

Chromium    .     .     .     .  Cr. 

Cobalt Co. 

Columbium  ....  Cb. 

Copper Cu. 

Didymium     .     .     .     .  D. 

Erbium Er. 

Fluorine F. 

Gallium Ga. 

Glucinum      .     .     .     .  Gl. 

Gold Au. 

Hydrogen      .     .     .     .  H. 

Indium In. 

Iodine I. 

Iridium Ir. 

Iron Fe. 

Lanthanum  ....  La. 

Lead Pb. 

Lithium Li. 

Magnesium  ....  Mg 
Mn. 


Mercury    .  . 
Molybdenum 

Nickel  .    .  . 

Nitrogen   .  . 

Osmium    .  . 

Oxygen     .  . 

Palladium  . 

Phosphorus  . 

Platinum  .  . 
Potassium 

Rhodium  .  . 
Rubidium 

Ruthenium  . 
Scandium 

Selenium  .  . 

Silicon .     .  . 

Silver  .    .  . 

Sodium     .  . 
Strontium 

Sulphur     .  . 
Tantalum 
Tellurium 

Thallium  .  . 

Thorium   .  . 

Tin  .    .     .  . 

Titanium  .  , 

Tungsten  .  , 

Uranium    .  , 

Vanadium  , 

Yttrium     .  . 

Zinc      .     .  . 
Zirconium 


Hg. 

Mo. 

Ni. 

N. 

Os. 

0. 

Pd. 

P. 

Pt. 

K. 

Rh. 

Rb. 

Ru. 

Sc. 

Se. 

Si. 

Ag. 

Na. 

Sr. 

S. 

Ta. 

Te. 

Tl. 

Th. 

Sn. 

Ti. 

W. 

U. 

V. 

Y. 

Zn. 

Zr. 


259 


260 


HORTICULTURIST  S   RULE-BOOK. 


The  Composition  of  Various  Substances. 


Acetic  acid  .     .     . 
Ammonia     .     .     . 
Aniline    .... 
Arsenious  oxide     . 
Carbonic  oxide  .     . 
Carbonic  dioxide  . 
Chloroform  .     .     . 
Ferric  oxide  .     .     . 
Ferrous  oxide   .     . 
Hydrochloric  acid  . 

CoH402 
NH3 
NH2(C6H5) 
As4O6 
CO 
C02 
CHClg 
Fe2O3 
FeO 
HC1 

Mercuric  oxide    .     .     . 
Nitric  acid  
Nitric  oxide    .... 
Nitrous  oxide  .... 
Nitric  peroxide    .     . 
Sulphuretted  hydrogen  . 
Sulphurous  oxide     .     . 
Sulphuric  oxide  .     . 
Sulphuric  acid     .     . 
Water   . 

HgO 
HN08 
NO 

N20 
N02 
H2S 
S02 
S03 
H2S04 
HoO 

2.   Analyses. 

Compiled  from  many  reliable  sources,  largely  from  the  labors 
of  Drs.  Goessinann  and  S.  W.  Johnson. 

(a)    GENERAL  ANALYSES  OP  FRUITS  AND  FRUIT-PLANTS. 
1.    Various  Fruits.     (Fresenius.) 


3      <0 

. 

S 

0     § 

2   | 

O       • 

. 

1 

03 

'a  $ 

11 

•g  -2 

-2 

!3 
CD 

I 

%  1 

il 

$ 

3  2 

CO 

Apples 

6.83 

.86 

.45 

.47 

14.96 

82.04 

Apricots    

1.531 

.766 

.389 

9.283 

12.723 

82.115 

Austrian  Grapes     .     . 

13.78 

1.020 

.832 

.498 

16.49 

79.997 

Cultivated  Strawberries 

7.575 

1.133 

.359 

.119 

9.666 

87.474 

Cultivated  Raspberries 

4.708 

1.356 

.544 

1.746 

8.835 

86.557 

Green  Grapes     .     .     . 

2.96 

.96 

.477 

10.475 

15.19 

80.841 

Heart-Cherries  .     .     . 

13.11 

.351 

.903 

2.286 

17.25 

75.37 

Mulberries     .... 

9.193 

1.86 

.394 

2.031 

14.043 

84.707 

Peaches     

1.580 

.612 

.463 

6.313 

9.39 

84.99 

Pears    .     .     . 

7.00 

.074 

.26 

3.281 

10.90 

83.95 

Red  Currants 

4.78 

2.31 

.45 

.28 

8.36 

85.84 

Red  Gooseberries    .     . 

8.063 

1.358 

.441 

9.69 

11.148 

85.565 

Wild  Raspberries    .     . 

3.599 

1.980 

.546 

1.107 

7.500 

83.86 

Wild  Strawberries  .     . 

3.247 

1.650 

.619 

.145 

6.398 

87.271 

ELEMENTS,   SYMBOLS,   AND   ANALYSES.       261 
2.    Subtropical  Fruits.     (Parsons.) 


! 

a 

«i 

s 

1 

B 

i 

extract. 

1 

13 
0     . 

•ss 

1 
N 

1 

•§ 

1 

8 

i 
c 

§3 

<s 

• 

^ 

-§1 

* 

£ 

£ 

o 

3 

§ 

6 

* 

<1 

S 

Sweet  Pomegranates    .     . 

78.27 

1.33 

0.368 

11.61 

1.04 

1.24 

2.63 

.761 

.177 

15.77 

Sour 

75.41 

1.60 

1.85 

10.40 

O.'2»i 

2.05 

2.88 

.544 

.203 

17.57 

Persimmons    

66.12 

0.827 

0.000 

13.54 

1  03 

0.701  1.78 

861 

29.71 

Florida  Oranges  — 

Bitter-sweet    .     .     .     . 

86,86 

0815 

0417 

5,71 

0,84 

0.243 

Tangerine  . 

83  56 

0  792 

0  477 

6  00 

341 

950 

Mandarin    

79  Qft 

0.834 

0.855 

4.77 

807 

0146 

Bloods    

85.57 

0.700 

0.670 

5.70 

3.94 

0.100 

Navels 

83  70 

1  12 

0  662 

6  03 

Eussets  

83  18 

0905 

0  817 

7  29 

4  51 

Common     

86,58 

0,862 

0  756 

460 

4,38 

0.076 

Sour  

86.76 

1.03 

2.55 

3.36 

0.97 

0.125 

Messina  Oranges  — 
Guy  Pope  

86.22 

0.980 

1.18 

5.95 

1.82 

0.166 

3.    Strawberries,  Average  of  20  Varieties.     (Stone.) 

Water 90.52 

Solids 9.48 

Free  acid 1.37 

Glucose 4.78 

Glucose  after  inversion 5.46 

Difference  calculated  as  cane-sugar 0.58 

COMPOSITION   OF   DRY    MATTER. 

Ash 6.53 

Crude  fiber 16.36 

Ether  extract 6.75 

Crude  protein 10.51 


4.    Raspberries.    (  Weber.) 
Reliance. 
1.78 

Gregg. 
2.82 

Acid   . 

0.92 

0.64 

Seed  . 

3.5 

5.612 

262 


HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 


Reliance.      Gregg. 

Pectose,  protein,  combined  acids,  etc 3.92  5.91 

Ash 0.43  0.42 

Fiber 0.32  0.48 

Water     .     .     .     .    /  . 89.13  84.12 

5.    Peach,  Branches.     (Kedzie.) 

Diseased  by 

Ash  constituents.                                               Healthy,  yellows. 

Silica,  Si02 1.21  1.40 

Oxide  of  iron,  Fe2O3 0.92  0.84 

Lime,  CaO 43.67  45.02 

Magnesia,  MgO 2.53  2.40 

Potash,  K2O 7.07  4.93 

Soda,  Na2O 1.88  2.33 

Phosphoric  acid,  P2O5 7.20  6.03 

Sulphuric  oxide,  SO3 0.54  0.83 

Carbon  dioxide,  C02 34.71  35.85 

Chlorine 0.07  0.11 

Moisture  and  loss ,     0.30  0.26 


Total    .     .     . 100.00    100.00 

6.  Peach,  Fruit  and  Branches.     (Goessmann.} 


ft 

f! 

11 

,fi. 

ASP  CONSTITUENTS. 

•s|^ 

•^n 

|£g 

r*"1  &  n 

fi«8.a 

^    O  ^   <D 

*  % 

f  -  ^* 

pq^| 

pq  >     >* 

ft 

if 

ei 

5^ 

n 

Per 
cent. 

Pei- 
cent. 

Per 

cent. 

Per 
cent. 

Ferric  oxide,  Fe203  .... 

0.58 

0.46 

0.52 

1.45 

Calcium  oxide,  CaO    .     .     . 

2.64 

4.68 

54.52 

64.23 

Magnesium  oxide,  MgO    .     . 

6.29 

5.49 

7.58 

10.28 

Phosphoric  acid,  P2O5  .     .     . 

16.02 

18.07 

11.37 

8.37 

Potassium  oxide,  K20  .     .     . 

74.46 

71.30 

26.01 

15.67 

Total 

10000 

10000 

10000 

10000 

ELEMENTS,    SYMBOLS,   AND   ANALYSES.       263 


7.  Fertilizing  Constituents  in   Various  Products. 
In  Roots,  Tubers,  etc. 

Phosphoric 

Name. 

Ash. 

Nitrogen. 

acid. 

Potash. 

0.99 

0.21 

0.07 

0.29 

Red  Beets  .          ... 

1.13 

0.24 

0.09 

0.44 

Sugar  Bests                   . 

1.04 

0.22 

0.10 

0.48 

Mangels 

1.22 

0.19 

0.09 

0.38 

Turnips      

1.01 

0.18 

0.10 

0.39 

Ruta-ba^as     .... 

1.06 

0.19 

0.12 

0.49 

Carrots 

9.22 

0.15 

0.09 

0.51 

In  Grains  and  Seeds. 

1.53 

1.82 

0.70 

0.40 

Sorghum  Seed 

1.48 

0.81 

0.42 

Barley 

2.48 

1.61 

0.79 

0.48 

Oats  

2.98 

2.06 

0.82 

0.62 

Winter  Wheat    .     .     . 

2.36 

0.89 

0.61 

Rve  . 

1.76 

0.82 

0.54 

Rice 

0.82 

1.08 

0.18 

0.09 

Buckwheat     .... 

1.44 

0.44 

0.21 

Soja  Beans 

4.  99 

5.30 

1.87 

1.99 

In  the  Ash  of  Fruits 

(Goessmann)  . 

Pi 

losphoric 

Name. 

Potash. 

Soda. 

Lime. 

Magn. 

acid. 

Lombard  Plums  .     .     . 

76.59 

.  .  . 

13.26 

2.17 

7.44 

Peaches  

74.46 

2.64 

6.29 

16.03 

Baldwin  Apples  . 

63.54 

1.71 

7.28 

5.52 

20.87 

Asparagus,  stem  .     .     . 

42.94 

3.58 

27.18 

12.77 

12.31 

roots      .     . 

56.43 

5.42 

15.48 

7.57 

15.09 

Clinton  Grapes    .     .     . 

,     57.40 

3.51 

13.10 

7.24 

17.87 

Concord  Grapes  .     .     . 

62.29 

.  .  . 

15.50 

1.76 

18.49 

Cranberries     .... 

,    47.96 

6.58 

18.58 

6.78 

14.27 

White  Currants  .     .     . 

53.81 

17.46 

4.72 

22.54 

Black  Raspberries    . 

50.00 

19.44 

9.60 

20.47 

Blackberries    .... 

51.42 

.  .  . 

17.22 

5.30 

24.13 

Blueberries  

31.36 

28.02 

9.25 

29.05 

264 


HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 


(6)  ANALYSES  or  FRUIT  AND  GARDEN  PRODUCTS 
8.  Analysis  of  Garden  Crops  and  Fertiliz- 

ONE    THOUSAND   PARTS 


NAME. 

1 
£ 

| 

JS 

< 

Potash. 

i 

Corn,  kernels     
stalk  and  leaves     .... 
Potato,  tubers   
vines          .     .         ... 

144. 
150. 
750. 
770. 

16.0 
4.8 
3.4 
4.9 

12.4 
45.8 
9.5 
19.7 

3.7 
16.4 
5.8 
4.3 

0.1 
0.5 
0.8 
0.4 

Peas,  seed     

143. 

35.8 

23.4 

10.1 

0.2 

vines    
Beans,  seed  

160. 
150. 

10.4 
39.0 

43.1 
27.4 

9.9 

12.0 

1.8 
0.4 

vines  
Carrots,  roots    
leaves  
Sugar  Beet  roots  . 

160. 

850. 
822. 
815. 

'  V.2 
5.1 

1.6 

40.2 
8.2 
23.9 
7.1 

12.8 
8.0 
2.9 

3.8 

3.2 

1.7 
4.7 
0.6 

leaves      
White  Turnip,  roots  
leaves      .... 
Swedish  Turnip,  roots    .... 
leaves  .... 
White  Cabbage,  head      .... 
roots     .... 
Savoy  Cabbage,  head  

897. 
920. 

898. 
870. 
884. 
900. 
890. 
871. 

3.0 
1.8 
3.0 
2.1 
3.4 
3.0 
2.4 
5.3 

15.3 
6.4 
11.9 
7.5 
19.5 
9.6 
15.6 
14.0 

4.0 
2.9 
2.8 
8.5 
2.8 
4.3 
5.8 
3.9 

2.0 
0.6 
1.1 
0.4 

0.8 
0.8 
1.5 
1.4 

Cauliflower    

904. 

4.0 

8.0 

8.6 

0.5 

Horseradish,  roots     

767. 

4.3 

19.7 

7.7 

0.4 

Spanish  Radish,  roots     .... 
Parsnip,  roots   . 
Artichoke,  roots    

933. 
793. 
811. 
933. 

1.9 

5.4 

3.2 

4.9 
10.0 
10.1 
5.0 

1.6 
5.4 
2.4 
1.2 

1.0 
0.2 

0.7 
0.9 

Common  Onion,  bulb     .... 
Celery  

860. 
841. 
923 

2.7 

2.4 
49 

7.4 
17.6 
16.0 

2.5 
7.6 
2.5 

0.2 
5.1 

Common  Lettuce  

940. 
943. 

&2 

8.1 
10.1 

3.7 

3.9 

0.8 
0.8 

925 

2  0 

9  8 

2  5 

35 

956. 

1.6 

5.8 

2.4 

0.6 

Pumpkin  
Rhubarb,  roots  
stem  and  leaves  .     .     . 

900. 
743.5 
916.7 
831 

1.1 
5.5 
1.3 
0  6 

4.4 
28.8 
17.2 
2  2 

0.9 
5.3 
3.6 
0  8 

0.9 

V.3 
0  6 

Pears 

831. 

0.6 

3.3 

1.8 

0.3 

Cherries        

825. 

8.9 

2.0 

0.1 

Plums                          .         ... 

838. 

2.9 

1.7 

903 

3.3 

1.3 

0.3 

Strawberries               

902. 

3.3 

0.7 

0.9 

830. 

1.7 

8.8 

5.0 

0.1 

seeds   

110. 

19.0 

22.7 

6.9 

0.5 

ELEMENTS,    SYMBOLS,   AND   ANALYSES.       265 


WITH  REFERENCE  TO  THEIR  FERTILIZING  CONSTITUENTS. 

ing  Constituents.     (Wolff and  Goessmann.) 

OF    THE    PLANTS    CONTAIN : 


NAME. 

ID* 

1 

i 

Phosphoric- 
acid. 

£ 

a     ro 

fl 

"3 

CO 

Chlorine. 

02 

Corn,  kernels  
stalk  and  leaves  .... 
Potato  tubers 

0.3 
4.9 
0.3 

1.9 
2.6 
0.5 

5.7 
8.8 
1  6 

0.1 
2.4 
0  6 

0.2 
0.6 
03 

0.3 
13.1 
0  2 

vines    
Peas  seed 

6.4 
1.1 

8.3 

1.9 

1.6 

84 

1.8 

0.8 

1.1 
04 

0.9 
02 

vines  
Beans  seed 

15.9 
1.5 

3.5 
2.1 

8.5 
9.7 

2.7 
1.1 

2.3 
08 

2.9 
02 

vines     
Carrots  roots 

11.1 
0.9 

2.5 
0.4 

3.9 
1.1 

1.7 
0.5 

3.1 
0.4 

1.9 
02 

leaves      

7.9 

0.8 

1.0 

1.8 

2.4 

2.4 

Sugar  Beet,  roots 

0.4 

0.6 

0.9 

03 

03 

02 

leaves    

3.1 

1.7 

0.7 

0.8 

1.3 

1.6 

White  Turnip,  roots      .... 
leaves     .... 
Swedish  Turnip,  roots  .... 
leaves      .     .     . 
"White  Cabbage,  head     .... 
roots    .... 
Savov  Cabbage,  head     ... 
Cauliflower  
Horseradish,  roots     
Spanish  Radish,  roots    .... 
Parsnip,  roots  
Artichoke,  roots   
Asparagus,  sprout     
Common  Onion,  bulb    .... 
Celery  
Spinach    

0.7 
3.9 
0.9 
6.5 
1.2 
2.8 
8.0 
0.5 
2.0 
0.7 
1.1 
1.0 
0.6 
1.6 
2.3 
1.9 

0.2 
0.5 
0.8 
0.8 
0.4 
0.6 
0.5 
0.3 
0.4 
0.2 
0.6 
0.4 
0.2 
0.3 
1.0 
1.0 

0.8 
0.9 
1.1 
2.0 
1.1 
1.4 
2.1 
1.6 
2.0 
0.5 
1.9 
1.1 
0.9 
1.3 
2.2 
1.6 

0.7 
1.1 
0.7 
2.3 
1.3 
2.4 
1.2 
1.0 
4.9 
0.3 
0.5 
1.3 
0.8 
0.4 
1.0 
1.1 

0.3 
1.2 
0.5 
1.5 
0.5 
1.3 
1.1 
0.3 
0.3 
0.5 
0.4 
0.5 
0.3 
0.2 
2.8 
1.0 

0.1 
0.5 
0.1 
2.1 
0.1 
0.1 
0.7 
0.3 
1.5 

V.2 
0.1 
0.5 
0.7 
0.7 
0.7 

Common  Lettuce 

05 

02 

0  7 

03 

04 

1  3 

Head  Lettuce  
Roman  Lettuce 

1.5 
1  2 

0.6 
0.4 

1.0 
1  1 

0.4 
04 

0.8 
04 

0.8 
03 

Cucumber    
Pumpkin      
Rhubarb,  roots     
stem  and  leaves  .    .    . 
Apples     
Pears  
Cherries 

0.4 
0.3 
5.0 
3.4 
0.1 
0.3 
03 

0.2 

0.2 
1.6 
1.3 

0.2 
0.2 
02 

1.2 
1.6 
0.6 
0.2 
0.3 
0.5 
0  6 

0.4 
0.1 

b!i 

0.2 

0  2 

0.4 
0  1 

0.5 
0.3 

"o'.i 

0.1 

0  4 

Plums  
Gooseberries 

0.8 
04 

0.2 
0.2 

0.4 

0  7 

0.1 
02 

0.1 
0  1 

Strawberries     
Grapes     

0.5 
1  0 

bU 

0.5 
1  4 

0.1 
05 

0.1 
0  1 

0.4 
03 

seeds  

5.6 

1.4 

7.0 

0.8 

0.1 

0.2 

266          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

9.  Apple-Pomace. 

Water 69.90 

Ash 0.71 

Albuminoids 1.58 

Fiber. 4.87 

Nitrogen-free  extract 21.24 

Fat     ...     , 1.71 

100.00 

10.   Cranberry -Vines. 

Moisture  at  100°  C.     .  13.07        Phosphoric  acid .     .     .  0.268 

Nitrogen 0.77         Magnesium  oxide    .     .  0.253 

Ash  constituents    .     .     2.45        Sodium  oxide     .     .     .  0.080 

Ferric  oxide  .     .     .     .     0.087      Potassium  oxide      .     .  0.329 

Calcium  oxide   .     .     .    0.404      Insoluble  matter     .     .  0.834 

11.   Corn-Fodder. 

Moisture  at  100°  C. .     .24.87        Potassium  oxide      .     .  1.465 

Nitrogen 0.995       Sodium  oxide     .     .     .  0.794 

Phosphoric  acid .     .     .     0.201       Ferric  oxide  .     .     .     .  0.026 

Calcium  oxide    .     .     .     0.310       Insoluble  matter     .     .  1.318 
Magnesium  oxide   .     .     0.093 

12.   Corn  Kernels,  New. 

Water 20.00 

Ash 1.25 

Albuminoids 8.06 

Fiber 1.54 

Nitrogen-free  extract 65.38 

Fat 3.77 

100.00 

13.  Pea-Straw. 

Potash 4.73 

Lime 54.91 

Magnesia 6.88 


ELEMENTS,   SYMBOLS,    AND   ANALYSES.  267 

Oxide  of  iron 0.40 

Oxide  of  Manganese 0.15 

Phosphoric  acid 4.83 

Sulphuric  acid 6.77 

Chlorine 0.09 

Alumina 1.21 

Silica 20.03 

100.00 
14.  Peas. 

Potash 36.05 

Soda 7.42 

Lime 5.29 

Magnesia 18.46 

Oxide  of  iron 0.99 

Phosphoric  acid 33.29 

Sulphuric  acid '.  4.36 

Chloride  of  sodium 3.13 

Silica 0.51 

100.00 
15.  Beet,  Egyptian  Turnip. 

Moisture  at  100°  C.   .     85.800      Magnesium  oxide    .     .  0.035 

Nitrogen 0.177       Sodium  oxide      .     .     .  0.061 

Phosphoric  acid    .     .      0.070      Ferric  oxide   ....  0.002 

Potassium  oxide    .     .      0.303      Insoluble  matter     .     .  0.018 
Calcium  oxide       .     .      0.049 

16.   Carrots. 

Moisture  at  100°  C.     .     90.02      Potassium  oxide  .     .     .  0.54 

Ferric  oxide  ....       0.01       Sodium  oxide  ....  0.11 

Phosphoric  acid .     .     .       0.10      Nitrogen 0.14 

Magnesium  oxide    .     .       0.02      Insoluble  matter  .     .     .  0.01 
Calcium  oxide     .     .     .       0.07 

17.    Turnip,  Ruta-baga. 

Moisture  at  100°  C.    .     87.230      Magnesium  oxide    .     .  0.030 

Nitrogen 0.211       Sodium  oxide  0.051 


268          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

Phosphoric  acid  .  .  0.136  Ferric  oxide  .....  0.002 
Potassium  oxide  .  .  0.546  Insoluble  matter  .  .  0.001 
Calcium  oxide  .  .  0.106 

(c)    ANALYSES  OF  ANIMAL  EXCREMENTS. 
18.  Common  Barnyard  Manure,  Fresh. 

Water 710.0      Lime 5.7 

Organic  substance  .     .     246.0      Magnesia 1.4 

Ash 44.1      Phosphoric  acid    .     .     .  2.1 

Nitrogen 4.5      Sulphuric  acid ....  1.2 

Potash 5.2      Silica  and  sand     .     .     .  12.5 

Soda 1.5      Chlorine  and  fluorine    .  1.5 

19.  Common  Barnyard  Manure,  Moderately  Rotted. 

Water 750.0      Lime 7.0 

Organic  substance  .    .     192.0      Magnesia 1.8 

Ash 58.0      Phosphoric  acid     ...  2.6 

Nitrogen 5.0      Sulphuric  acid  ....  1.6 

Potash 6.3      Silica  and  sand      .     .     .  16.8 

Soda 1.9      Chlorine  and  fluorine     .  1.9 

20.  Common  Barnyard  Manure,  Thoroughly  Rotted. 

Water 790.0      Lime 8.8 

Organic  substance   .     .    145.0      Magnesia      ....  1.8 

Ash 65.0      Phosphoric  acid    ...  3.0 

Nitrogen     ....        5.8      Sulphuric  acid       ...  1.3 

Potash   ......        5.0      Silica  and  sand     .     .     .  17.0 

Soda       1.3      Chlorine  and  fluorine     .  1.6 

21.     Cattle-Feces,  Fresh. 

Water 838.0      Lime    ...     ^  ...  3.4 

Organic  substance    .     .  145.0      Magnesia 1.3 

Ash 17.3      Phosphoric  acid      .     .     .  1.7 

Nitrogen 2.9      Sulphuric  acid  ....  0.4 

Potash 1.0      Silica  and  sand      ...  7.2 

Soda .                                    0.2      Chlorine  and  fluorine  0.2 


ELEMENTS,    SYMBOLS,   AND   ANALYSES.       269 
22.    Cattle-Urine,  Fresh. 


Water    .... 

.     .  938.0      Lime    

.     0.1 

Organic  substance 

.     .     35.0      Magnesia  

.     0.4 

Ash   

.     .    27.4      Sulphuric  acid  .     .     . 

.     1.3 

Nitrogen     .     . 

.     .      5.8      Silica  and  sand  .     .     . 

.     0.3 

Potash   .     .     .     . 

.     .      4.9      Chlorine  and  fluorine 

.    3.8 

Soda       .... 

6.4 

23.    Horse-Feces,  Fresh. 

Water    .... 

.     .  757.0      Lime    

.     1.5 

Organic  substance 

.     .  211.0      Magnesia  

.     1.2 

Ash   

.     .     31.6      Phosphoric  acid      .     . 

.     3.5 

Nitrogen     .     .     . 

4.4      Sulphuric  acid   .     .    . 

.     0.6 

Potash    .... 

.     .       3.5      Silica  and  sand  .     .     . 

.  19.6 

.     0.2 

24.    Horse-Urine,  Fresh. 

Water    .... 

.     .  901.0      Lime      

.    4.5 

Organic  substance 

.     .     71.0      Magnesia    

.    2.4 

Ash  

.     .     28.0      Sulphuric  acid    .     .    . 

.    0.6 

Nitrogen      .     .  •  . 

.     .     15.5      Silica  and  sand  .     .     . 

.    0.8 

Potash    .... 

.     .     15.0      Chlorine  and  fluorine  . 

.     1.5 

Soda.    .    .     .     . 

2.5 

25.    Sheep-Feces,  Fresh. 

Water    .... 

.     .  655.0      Lime    

.     4.6 

Organic  substance 

.     .  314.0      Magnesia  

.     1.5 

Ash  ..... 

.     .    31.1      Phosphoric  acid      .     . 

.     3.1 

Nitrogen     .     .     . 

.     .       5.5      Sulphuric  acid   .     .     . 

.     1.4 

Potash   .... 

.     .       1.5      Silica  and  sand  .     .     . 

.   17.5 

Soda  

.     .       1.0      Chlorine  and  fluorine  . 

.     0.3 

26.    Sheep-Urine,  Fresh. 

Water    .... 

.     .  872.0      Lime    

.     1.6 

Organic  substance 

.     .    83.0      Magnesia  

.     3.4 

270          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 


Ash  

.     .    45.2      Phosphoric  acid      .     . 

.     0.1 

Nitrogen     .     .     . 

.     .     19.5      Sulphuric  acid  .     .     . 

.    3.0 

Potash  .... 

.     .    22.6      Silica  and  sand  .    .     . 

.     0.1 

Soda  

.     .      5.4      Chlorine  and  fluorine  . 

.    5.5 

27.    Swine-Feces,  Fresh. 

Water     .... 

.    .  820.0      Lime  

.    0.9 

Organic  substance 

.     .  150.0      Magnesia   

.    1.0 

Ash     

.     .    30.0      Phosphoric  acid  .    .    . 

.    4.1 

Nitrogen  .... 

.     .      6.0      Sulphuric  acid    .    .    . 

.    0.4 

Potash     .... 

.     .      2.6      Silica  and  sand  .    .    . 

.  15.0 

Soda    

.    .      2.5      Chlorine  and  fluorine  . 

.    0.3 

28.    Swine-Urine,  Fresh. 

Water  

.    .  967.0      Soda  

.    2.1 

Organic  substance 

.    .    28.0      Magnesia   

.    0.8 

Ash     

.     .    15.0      Phosphoric  acid  .    .     . 

.    0.7 

Nitrogen  .... 

.     .      4.3      Sulphuric  acid    .     .     . 

.    0.8 

Potash     .... 

.     .      8.3      Chlorine  and  fluorine  . 

.    2.3 

29.    Human  Feces,  Fresh. 

- 

Water     .... 

.    .  772.0      Lime  

.    6.2 

Organic  substance 

.     .  198.0      Magnesia  

.     3.6 

Ash     

.     .    29.9      Phosphoric  acid  .     .    . 

.  10.9 

Nitrogen  .... 

.     .     10.0      Sulphuric  acid    .     .    . 

.    0.8 

Potash  .... 

.    .      2.5      Silica  and  sand  .    .    . 

.     1.9 

Soda    

.     .      1.6      Chlorine  and  fluorine  . 

.    0.4 

30.    Human  Urine,  Fresh. 

Water  

.    .  963.0      Lime  

.    0.2 

Organic  substance 

.     .    24.0      Magnesia  

.    0.2 

Ash     

.     .     13.5      Phosphoric  acid.    .     . 

.    1.7 

Nitrogen  .... 

.     .      6.0      Sulphuric  acid    .    .    . 

.    0.4 

Potash      .     .     .     . 

.     .      2.0      Chlorine  and  fluorine  . 

.     5.0 

Soda    . 

4.6 

ELEMENTS,   SYMBOLS,   AND   ANALYSES.  271 

31.  Hen-Manure,  Fresh. 

Water 560.0      Lime 24.0 

Organic  substance   .     .    255.0      Magnesia 7.4 

Ash .     185.0      Phosphoric  acid    .     .    .  15.4 

Nitrogen 16.3      Sulphuric  acid  ....  4.5 

Potash 8.5      Silica  and  sand  ....  35.2 

Soda 1.0 

32.  Goose-Manure,  Fresh. 

Water 771.0      Lime 8.4 

Organic  substance   .     .     134.0      Magnesia 2.0 

Ash 95.0      Phosphoric  acid     ...  5.4 

Nitrogen 5.5      Sulphuric  acid  ....  1.4 

Potash 9.5      Silica  and  Sand      .     .     .  14.0 

Soda 1.3 

33.  Duck-Manure,  Fresh. 

Water 566.0      Lime 17.0 

Organic  substance    .     .    262.0      Magnesia 3.5 

Ash 172.0      Phosphoric  acid    .     .     .  14.0 

Nitrogen 10.0      Sulphuric  acid  ....  3.5 

Potash 6.2      Silica  and  sand ....  28.0 

Soda 0.5 

34.  Dove-Manure,  Fresh. 

Water 519.0      Lime 16.0 

Organic  substance    .     .    308.0      Magnesia 5.0 

Ash 173.0      Phosphoric  acid     .     .     .  17.8 

Nitrogen 17.6      Sulphuric  acid  ....  3.3 

Potash 10.0      Silica  and  sand      .    .     .  20.2 

Soda 0.7 

(d)   ANALYSES  OF  VARIOUS  MATERIALS  WHICH  ARE  USED 
FOR  FERTILIZERS. 

35.  Peruvian  Guano. 

Moisture  at  100°  C.    .     .    12.17      Total  nitrogen   .    .     .  5.13 

Total  phosphoric  acid    .     18.45      Actual  ammonia    .     .  3.94 


272          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

Soluble  phosphoric  acid  1.54  Organic  nitrogen    .    .  0.86 

Reverted  phosphoric  acid  5.92  Nitrogen  as  nitric  acid  0.33 

Insoluble  phosphoric  acid  10.99  Insoluble  matter    .    .  13.64 

Potassium  oxide    ...  3.46 

36.   Oak-Leaves. 

Moisture  at  100°  C.     .     9.601  Potassium  oxide  .     .     .  0.549 

Organic  matter  .     .     .  83.360  Phosphoric  acid   .     .     .  0.058 

Mineral  matter  .     .     .     6.840  Nitrogen      .     .     .     .     .  0.930 

Ferric  oxide  ....     0.027  Soluble  silica  ....  0.018 

Calcium  oxide    .     .     .    0.548  Insoluble  silica     .     .     .  4.333 
Magnesium  oxide    .     .     0.267 

37.  Seaweed.    (Two  samples.) 

i.  ii. 

Moisture  at  100°  C 12.05  14.96 

Nitrogen 1.66  1.28 

Phosphoric  acid 0.44  0.17 

Potassium  oxide 3.81  0.36 

Calcium  oxide  .     . 2.73  3.86 

Magnesium  oxide 1.48  1.30 

Sodium  oxide 11.75  8.40 

Chlorine 6.40  5.28 

Insoluble  matter 7.73  0.78 

38.    Tobacco-Stems. 
Water 13.47 

Organic  and  volatile  matters  (containing  nitrogen  1.93)  .  70.85 

Ash  (containing  phosphoric  acid  .53) 15.68 

100.00 
39.  Dissolved  Bone-Black. 

This  material  is  a  superphosphate  prepared  by  treating  refuse 
bone-black  from  sugar  refineries  with  oil  of  vitriol,  which  ren- 
ders nearly  all  the  phosphoric  acid  soluble  in  water. 

Soluble  phosphoric  acid 14.55 

Reverted  phosphoric  acid 2.39 

Insoluble  phosphoric  acid 0.20 


ELEMENTS,    SYMBOLS,    AND   ANALYSES.       273 


40.  Bone-Black. 

Moisture  at  100°  C.  .     .     5.04      Phosphoric  acid  .     .     .  16.56 
Ash 67.43      Insoluble  matter  .     .     .    0.37 

41.  Bone  Charcoal. 
Moisture  at  100°  C.  .     .18.16      Reverted       phosphoric 

Ash 72.24          acid 5.18 

Total  phosphoric  acid    .  25.58      Insoluble       phosphoric 

Soluble  phosphoric  acid    0.38          acid 20.02 

Insoluble  matter  .     .     .     0.69 

42.   Ground  Bones.     (Two  samples.) 

i.  ii. 

Moisture  at  100°  C 3.97  12.43 

Ash 49.35  64.21 

Total  phosphoric  acid 19.49  25.67 

Reverted  phosphoric  acid 3.80  6.20 

Insoluble  phosphoric  acid 15.69  19.34 

Nitrogen 4.04  2.68 

Insoluble  matter 0.78  0.42 

43.  Dried  Blood. 
Moisture 15.02      Nitrogen 8.24 

44.  Dry  Ground  Fish. 

Moisture  at  100°  C. 8.34 

Ash 37.76 

Total  phosphoric  acid 8.23 

Soluble  phosphoric  acid 0.10 

Reverted  phosphoric  acid 3.81 

Insoluble  phosphoric  acid 4.32 

Nitrogen 6.81 

Insoluble  matter 0.82 

45.  Sulphate  of  Ammonia. 

This  article,  now  manufactured  on  a  large  scale  as  a  by-prod- 
uct of  gas-works,  usually  contains  over  20  per  cent  of  nitrogen, 
T 


274          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

the  equivalent  of  from  94  to  97  per  cent  of  sulphate  of  ammo- 
nia.   The  rest  is  chiefly  moisture. 

Nitrogen 20.02      Equivalent  ammonia .     .  24.30 

46.   Sulphate  of  Potash.    (Two  samples.) 

The  double  sulphate  of  potash  and  magnesia  is  usually  sold 
as  "sulphate  of  potash." 

Actual  potash 27.76        51.23 

Equivalent  sulphate  of  potash 51.3          94.80 

47.  Sulphate  of  Magnesia. 

Moisture  at  100°  C.    .     .  29.01      Sulphuric  acid  ....  30.35 
Magnesium  oxide  .     ,     .  15.87      Insoluble  matter   .     .    .    6.29 

48.  Nitrate  of  Soda. 

Nitrate  of  soda  is  mined  in  Chile  and  purified  there  before 
shipment.  It  usually  contains  about  16  per  cent  of  nitrogen, 
equivalent  to  97  per  cent  of  pure  nitrate  of  soda.  It  contains, 
besides,  a  little  salt  and  some  moisture. 

Moisture 35      Sulphate  of  soda  .     .    ,     0.21 

Salt  (sodium  chloride)  .    .  .23      Pure  nitrate  of  soda  .     .  99.21 

49.  Muriate  of  Potash.    (Two  samples.) 

Commercial  muriate  of  potash  consists  of  about  80  per  cent 
of  muriate  of  potash  (potassium  chloride)  ;  15  per  cent  or 
more  of  common  salt  (sodium  chloride),  and  4  per  cent  or 
more  of  water.  i 

Actual  potash    .     . 50.0        52.82 

Equivalent  muriate 79.2        83.70 

50.   German  Potash  Salts  —  Average  of  11  Analyses. 

Moisture  at  100°  C.   .     .  13.14  Magnesium  oxide .     .    .    9.25 

Potassium  oxide    .     .     .  21.63  Sulphuric  acid  ....  10.85 

Sodium  oxide    ....  13.76  Chlorine 35.63 

Calcium  oxide  .  .    0.85  Insoluble  matter  .         .2.08 


ELEMENTS,   SYMBOLS,    AND   ANALYSES.       275 

51.  Kainit  —  Average  of  3  Analyses. 

Moisture  at  100°  C.    .     .    9.26      Magnesium  oxide .    .    .    8.97 
Potassium  oxide    .    .    .  14.04      Sulphuric  acid  ....  21.05 

Sodium  oxide    ....  21.38      Chlorine 32.38 

Calcium  oxide  ....    1.12      Insoluble  matter  .    .    .    0.89 

52.  Land-Plaster  or  Gypsum. 

Hydrated  sulphate  of  lime 74.88 

Matters  insoluble  in  acid 1.23 

Moisture 1.18 

Other  matters  chiefly  carbonate  of  lime 22.66 

53.  Ashes  (Wood),  Unleached. 

Moisture  at  100°  C 15.72 

Calcium  oxide 28.61 

Magnesium  oxide 3.00 

Ferric  oxide 1.03 

Potassium  oxide 8.72 

Phosphoric  acid 0.32 

Insoluble  matter,  before  calcination 18.49 

"  after  "  12.12 

54.  Ashes  (Wood),  Leached. 

Moisture  at  100°  C 13.72 

Calcium  oxide 48.07 

Magnesium  oxide 6.06 

Ferric  oxide 0.68 

Potassium  oxide 1.92 

Phosphoric  acid 1.79 

Insoluble  matter,  before  calcination 5.49 

"             after            "          2.57 

55.   Coal  Ashes,  Bituminous. 

Water 5.0      Soda 0.4 

Organic  substance .     .     .     5.0      Magnesia 3.2 

Ash 95.0      Phosphoric  acid    ...  0.2 

Potash 0.4      Sulphuric  acid  ....  8.5 


276          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK, 

56.   Coal  Ashes,  Anthracite. 

Water.    ......    6.0      Soda 0.1 

Organic  substance .     .     .     5.0      Magnesia 3.0 

Ash 90.0      Phosphoric  acid    ...  0.1 

Potash     .......     0.1      Sulphuric  acid  ....  5.0 

57.    Gas-Lime  — Average  of  4  Analyses. 

Moisture  at  100°  C.  .     .22.28       Sulphur 20.73 

Calcium  oxide ....  42.66      Insoluble  matter  .     .     .    6.05 

(e)  TRADE  VALUES  FOR  1895  OF  FERTILIZING  INGREDIENTS 
IN  RAW  MATERIALS  AND  CHEMICALS.  ADOPTED  BY  EX- 
PERIMENT STATIONS  OF  MASS.,  N.  J.,  PENN.,  AND  CONN. 

Cte. 

per  Ib. 

Nitrogen  in  ammoniates 18  \ 

"  nitrates 15 

Organic  nitrogen  in  dry  and  fine  ground  fish,  meat  and  blood  16^ 

"  "  cotton-seed  meal       12 

"  "  fine  bone  and  tankage 16 

"  "  fine  medium  bone  and  tankage      ...  14 

"  "  medium  bone  and  tankage 11 

"  "  coarser  bone  and  tankage 5 

"  "  hair,  horn-shavings,  and  coarse  fish-scrap    5 

Phosphoric  acid,  soluble  in  water 6 

"  "  ammonium  citrate 5| 

"          dry  ground  fish,  fine  bone  and  tankage  .     .     5| 
"         fine-medium  bone,  and  tankage    .     .     .     .    4| 

u          medium  bone  and  tankage 3 

"          coarser  bone  and  tankage 2 

•*         fine  ground  fish,   cotton-seed  meal,  and 

wood  ashes 5 

"          mixed  fertilizers  insoluble  in  ammonium 

citrate      . 2 

Potash  as  high-grade  sulphate  and  in  forms  free  from  mu- 
riate (or  chlorides) 5| 

"  muriate 4 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

GLOSSARY. 

Acclimation.  The  spontaneous  or  natural  process  of  becom- 
ing, or  the  state  or  condition  of  being,  inured  or  habituated 
to  a  climate  at  first  injurious. 

Acclimatization.  The  act  of  man  in  inuring  or  habituating 
to  a  climate  at  first  injurious,  or  the  state  or  condition  of 
being  thus  inured  or  habituated  by  man. 

Adventive.  Said  of  foreign  plants  which  grow  spontaneously, 
but  which  are  not  thoroughly  established. 

Agriculture.  The  art  and  science  of  cultivating  land  and 
of  raising  plants  and  animals  for  economic  purposes.  The 
term  is  often  restricted  to  include  only  the  cultivation  of 
grains  and  forage-plants  and  the  rearing  of  domestic 
animals,  with  the  operations  and  studies  incident  thereto. 

Alburnum.     Sap-wood. 

Ammonia.  A  pungent  gas,  composed  of  1  atom  of  nitrogen 
to  3  of  hydrogen.  In  the  commercial  form,  it  is  dissolved 
in  water. 

Annual.     Living  for  one  year  only. 

Arm.     In  grape-culture,  a  vine-branch  more  than  a  year  old. 

Assimilation.  In  botany,  the  production  of  organic  matter 
from  inorganic  matter. 

Bacterium  (pi.  bacteria).  As  popularly  used,  the  term  is 
applied  to  an  extensive  class  of  microscopic  organisms, 
usually  classed  with  plants.  The  term  microbe  is  used  in 
the  same  sense. 

Basin.  In  descriptions  of  apples  and  related  fruits,  the  depres- 
sion at  the  apex  of  the  fruit.  The  calyx  sits  in  the  basin. 

Berry.  In  botany,  and  properly,  a  separate  fruit  which  is 

277 


278          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

pulpy  and  juicy  throughout,  as  the  grape,  currant,  tomato. 
The  word  is  commonly  employed  to  denote  any  soft  fruit 
or  fruit-like  part  which  is  borne  upon  a  woody  or  perennial 
plant.  The  raspberry  and  blackberry  are  collections  of 
little  fruits. 

Biennial.  Persisting  two  years.  As  a  rule,  biennial  plants  do 
not  blossom  until  the  second  year. 

Bigeneric  half-breed.  The  product  of  a  cross  between  vari- 
eties of  species  belonging  to  different  genera. 

Bigeneric  hybrid.  A  hybrid  between  species  of  different 
genera;  bigener. 

Blight.  The  dying  without  apparent  cause  of  the  tenderer 
parts  of  plants,  especially  of  the  leaves,  flowers,  and  young 
fruit ;  as  pear-blight. 

Botany.     The  science  of  plants. 

Bottle-grafting.  A  modification  of  whip-grafting,  by  which 
a  heel  of  the  scion  is  conducted  into  a  bottle  of  water  to 
supply  temporary  nourishment. 

Bottom  heat.  Heat  applied  underneath  plants  by  artificial 
means. 

Bract.  A  much-reduced  leaf.  Bracts  are  usually  present 
about  the  inflorescence. 

Break.  A  radical  departure  from  the  type.  Ordinarily  used 
in  the  sense  of  sport,  but  in  its  larger  meaning  it  refers  to 
the  permanent  appearance  of  apparently  new  or  very  pro- 
nounced characters  in  a  species. 

Bud.  A  bud  which  is  inserted  in  a  plant  with  the  intention 
that  it  shall  grow. 

Budding.  The  operation  and  practice  of  inserting  a  bud  in 
a  plant  with  the  intention  that  it  shall  grow. 

Bud- variety.  A  strange  variety  or  form  appearing,  without 
obvious  cause,  upon  a  plant  or  in  cuttings  or  layers;  a 
sport.  A  bud-variety  springs  from  a  bud,  in  distinction 
to  those  which  spring  from  a  seed. 

Bulb.  A  large,  more  or  less  permanent  leaf-bud,  usually  occu- 
pying the  base  of  the  stem,  and  emitting  roots  from  its 
lower  portion.  Bulbs  are  of  two  leading  sorts:  scaly, 


GLOSS  AEY.  279 

when  composed  of  narrow  and  mostly  loose  scales,  as  in 
the  lily ;  laminated  or  tunicated,  when  composed  of  more 
continuous  and  closer-fitting  layers,  as  in  the  onion. 

Bulbel.  A  small  bulb  borne  about  a  mother-bulb,  as  in  some 
bulbous  irises  and  some  onions ;  bulbule. 

Bulblet.  A  small  bulb  borne  entirely  above  ground,  as  in  the 
axils  of  leaves,  in  the  inflorescence,  etc. 

Bulbo-tuber.     A  corm. 

Bulbule.     A  bulbel. 

Bush.  A  small  woody  plant  having  no  central  trunk  or  stem  ; 
shrub. 

Bush-fruit.  Small  fruits,  as  the  currant,  gooseberry,  rasp- 
berry, and  the  like. 

Callus.  The  new  and  protruding  tissue  which  forms  over  a 
wound,  as  over  the  end  of  a  cutting. 

Calyx.  The  outer  envelope  of  the  flower.  The  parts,  when 
distinct,  are  called  sepals.  In  apples,  pears,  etc.,  part  of 
the  calyx  persists  on  top  of  the  fruit. 

Cambium.  The  layer  of  new  tissue  which  lies  underneath  the 
bark.  It  is  usually  thin  and  more  or  less  mucilaginous  in 
spring  and  early  summer. 

Cane.  A  young  growth  of  hard-wooded  plants.  Usually 
applied  to  ripened  or  hardened  shoots  a  year  or  less  old. 

Cantaloupe.  A  class  of  muskmelons  characterized  by  firm 
and  warty  or  scaly  rinds. 

Capsule.  A  dry  seed-vessel  which  splits  open  at  maturity  ; 
pod. 

Carbon  dioxide.  A  gas  composed  of  1  atom  of  carbon  to 
2  of  oxygen.  Carbonic  acid  gas  ;  it  is  heavier  than  air. 

Carbonic  acid.     Carbon  dioxide. 

Carpel.  A  simple  pistil,  or  one  of  the  divisions  of  a  com- 
pound pistil. 

Cavity.  In  descriptions  of  apples  and  similar  fruits,  the 
depression  about  the  stalk  or  stem. 

Chlorophyl.    The  green  coloring  matter  of  plants. 

Cion.     See  SCION. 

Cleft-graft.     A  sort  of  grafting  in   which  the  scion  is  cut 


280          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

wedge-shape  at  the  lower  extremity,  and  is  then  inserted 

in  a  cleft  in  the  end  of  a  trunk  or  branch  which  has  been 

severed. 
Close-fertilization.     The  action  of  pollen  upon  the  pistil  of 

the  same  flower  ;  self-fertilization. 
Coldframe.     A  frame  covered  with  glass,   cloth,   or  paper, 

without  bottom   heat,   used  for  starting  plants  early   in 

spring,  for  receiving  plants  transplanted  from   a  hotbed 

or    forcing-house,    or    for    protecting    plants    during    the 

winter. 
Conservatory.      A  glass  house  for  preserving   or   growing 

tender  plants.    Popularly,  the  term  is  applied  to  houses 

in  which  plants  are  grown  for  display  of  flowers. 
Corm.     A  solid  bulb-like  tuber,  as  in  the  gladiolus  and  crocus ; 

bulbo-tuber. 
Corolla.     The  inner  envelope  of  the  flower.    The  parts,  when 

distinct,  are  called  petals. 
Corymb.     A  flower-cluster  which  is  flat  or  convex  on  top,  and 

in  which  the  outer  flower  blooms  first. 
Cotyledon.     A  small  leaf  borne  in  the  seed ;  seed-leaf.    In 

many  plants  the  cotyledons  rise  to  the  surface  when  the 

seed  germinates,  and  increase  in  size. 
Cross.     The  offspring  of  any  two  flowers  which  have  been 

cross-fertilized. 
Cross-breed.     A  cross  between  varieties  of  the  same  species  ; 

half-breed,  mongrel,  variety-hybrid. 
Cross-fertilization.    The  action  of  pollen  upon  the  pistil  of 

another  flower  of  the  same  species.     Cross-fertilization  is 

commonly  used  to  denote  the  mere  conveyance  of  pollen  — 

pollination — but  better  usage  confines  the  term  to  the 

action  of  pollen  upon  the  pistil. 
Cross-pollination.     The  conveyance  of    the    pollen   to   the 

stigma  of  another  flower. 

Crossing.     The  operation  or  practice  of  cross-pollination. 
Crown-grafting.      Grafting  at  or  near    the    surface    of    the 

ground. 
Cryptogam.     One  of  the  class  of  flowerless  plants.    These 


GLOSSARY.  281 

plants  propagate  by  spores  instead  of  seeds.  Ferns,  fungi, 
mosses,  and  seaweeds  are  examples. 

Cucurbit.  A  plant  of  the  family  Cucurbitacese,  as  pumpkin, 
squash,  gourd,  melon,  cucumber,  gherkin,  wild  balsam- 
apple,  etc. 

Cuttage.  The  practice  or  process  of  multiplying  plants  by 
means  of  cuttings,  or  the  state  or  condition  of  being  so 
propagated. 

Cutting.  A  portion  of  a  plant  which  is  inserted  in  soil  or 
water  with  the  intention  that  it  shall  grow  ;  slip. 

Cyme.  A  flower-cluster,  flat  or  convex  on  top,  and  in  which 
the  central  flowers  open  first. 

Deciduous.     Said  of  plants  whose  leaves  fall  in  autumn. 

Derivative  hybrid.  A  hybrid  between  hybrids,  or  between  a 
hybrid  and  one  of  its  parents ;  derivation -hybrid ;  second- 
ary hybrid. 

Dibber.     See  DIBBLE. 

Dibble.  A  pointed  instrument  used  for  making  holes  in  the 
ground  for  the  planting  of  seeds  and  roots  ;  dibber. 

Dioecious.  Said  of  species  in  which  the  stamens  and  pistils 
are  borne  on  different  plants. 

Disbudding.     The  practice  or  operation  of  removing  buds. 

Double-graft.  A  plant  twice  grafted  for  the  purpose  of  over- 
coming the  lack  of  affinity  between  stock  and  scion. 

Double-grafting.  The  practice  and  process  of  twice  grafting 
or  budding  a  plant  so  that  the  root,  the  stem  or  a  part  of  it, 
and  the  top,  shall  each  represent  a  different  variety.  It  is 
used  when  a  certain  variety  will  not  grow  upon  a  given 
root,  but  which  will  grow  on  some  variety  that  unites  with 
that  root ;  double-working. 

Double-working.     See  DOUBLE-GRAFTING. 

Drupe.  A  fleshy  or  soft  fruit  formed  entirely  from  the  ovary, 
and  containing  a  hard  pit;  stone-fruit.  The  peach  and 
cherry  are  examples. 

Embryo.  The  rudimentary  plant  contained  in  the  seed ;  seed- 
germ. 

Entomology.    The  science  of  insects. 


282          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

Evergreen.     Said  of  plants  which  hold  their  leaves  during 

winter. 
Eye.    A  cutting  composed  of  a  single  bud.    A  bud  upon  a 

tuber,  as  a  potato  eye. 

Family.     A  group  of  genera  and  species,  as  Cruciferce,  mus- 
tard family ;  Gramince,  grass  family.     In  botany,  order  is 

the  same. 

Fecundation.     The  action  of  the  pollen  upon  the  pistil ;  ferti- 
lization ;  impregnation. 
Female.     Used  to  designate  flowers  or  plants  which  bear  only 

pistils. 
Fertilization.     The  action   of    the    pollen  upon  the  pistil ; 

fecundation ;  impregnation. 
Fertilizer.     1.  Any  substance  which  promotes  plant- growth. 

2.  Plant-food. 
Fertilizing.     The  act  or    process  of    applying  fertilizers  to 

plants.    The  word  "fertilization"  should  be  restricted  to 

designate  the  action  of  pollen. 

Flagging.     Wilting  of  newly  set  plants  or  herbaceous  cuttings. 
Flat.    A  shallow  box  used  by  gardeners  in  which  to  sow  seeds 

or  handle  plants. 

Floriculture.     The  cultivation  of  flowers. 
Florist.     One  who  practices  floriculture. 
Flower.     An  organ  which  contains  a  stamen  or  pistil,  or  both. 

It  is  usually  provided  with  some  kind  of  an  envelope,  as 

calyx  and  corolla. 
Forcing-house.     A  structure  in  which  plants  are  grown  or 

forced  out  of  their  season. 
Frame.    The  structure  forming  the  sides  and  ends  of  coldframes 

or  hotbeds.    A  frame  is  usually  understood  to  be  the  area 

covered  by  a  single  sash,  when  areas  are  to  be  designated. 
Fruit.     1.   Botanically,  a  ripened  ovary  containing  the  seeds. 

2.   Popularly,  any  edible  or  ornamental  organ  or  collection 

of  organs  which  are  closely  associated  in  their  origin  with 

the  flower. 

Fungicide.     A  substance  employed  to  destroy  fungi. 
Fungoid  (adj.).    Fungus-like  in  general  appearance  or  char- 


GLOSSARY.  283 

acteristics.  A  fungoid  disease  is  one  which  appears  to  be 
due  to  a  fungus,  but  whose  character  is  not  understood. 

Fungous  (adj.}.  Pertaining  or  due  to  a  fungus  or  to  fungi ; 
as,  a  fungous  disease. 

Fungus  (pi.  fungi} .  A  flowerless  plant,  devoid  of  chlorophyl, 
drawing  its  nourishment  from  living  plants  or  animals,  or 
from  decaying  matter. 

Gardener.  One  who  practices  horticulture  on  a  small  or  on 
an  intensive  scale. 

Gardening.  The  art  and  science  of  raising  kitchen-garden 
vegetables,  fruits,  and  ornamental  plants ;  horticulture.  The 
term  is  commonly  restricted,  however,  to  the  operations  of 
growing  kitchen-garden  vegetables  and  flowers. 

Genus  (pi.  genera).  A  group  or  kind  containing  a  greater  or 
less  number  of  closely  related  species ;  as  Bosa,  the  rose 
genus,  Tilia,  the  linden  genus. 

Germination.  The  act  or  process  by  which  a  seed  or  spore 
gives  rise  to  a  new  and  independent  plant. 

Gourd.  An  ambiguous  term,  used  in  America  to  designate 
various  small  fruits  of  the  pumpkin  and  squash  genus 
which  are  grown  for  ornament  and  curiosity.  In  other 
countries  the  term  is  generic  for  most  pumpkins  and 
squashes. 

Graft.     Scion,  which  see. 

Graftage.  The  process  of  grafting,  or  the  condition  or  state 
of  being  grafted. 

Grafting.  The  operation  of  inserting  a  bud  or  scion  upon  a 
stock.  It  is  commonly  restricted  to  the  operation  of  insert- 
ing scions  of  dormant  wood,  or  to  those  operations  in  which 
wax  or  mastic  is  used  to  dress  the  wounds. 

Greenhouse.  A  glass  house  in  which  plants  are  grown. 
Originally  and  properly,  however,  it  was  applied  to  houses 
in  which  plants  were  simply  preserved  green  during  the 
winter. 

Ha-ha.     A  sunken  fence. 

Half-breed.  A  cross  between  varieties  of  the  same  species; 
cross-breed,  mongrel,  variety-hybrid. 


284          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

Half-hardy  (adj.}.  A  term,  applied  to  plants  which  need  pro- 
tection during  winter,  but  which  can  endure  some  frost. 

Half-hybrid.  The  product  of  a  cross  between  a  species  and 
a  variety  of  another  species. 

Hand-box.  A  box  of  size  sufficient  to  cover  a  hill  of  plants, 
provided  with  a  cover  of  glass,  cloth,  or  paper,  used  to 
force  plants  in  the  hill. 

Hardiness.     Capability  to  endure  a  given  climate. 

Hardy  (adj.}.     Able  to  withstand  a  given  climate. 

Heart-wood.  The  inner  and  colored  wood  of  trees.  The 
deeper  color  and  greater  hardness  of  heart-wood  are  due 
chiefly  to  the  deposition  of  mineral  matter  in  the  cells. 

Heeling-in.  The  process  and  operation  of  temporarily  cover- 
ing the  roots  of  plants  to  preserve  them  until  wanted  for 
permanent  planting. 

Herb.  A  plant  possessing  but  a  small  amount  of  hard,  woody 
fiber,  the  stem  of  which  dies  at  the  approach  of  winter. 

Herbarium.  A  collection  of  preserved  plants.  The  plants 
are  usually  dried  and  glued  on  sheets  of  paper. 

Horticulture.  The  art  and  science  of  raising  fruits,  kitchen- 
garden  vegetables,  flowers,  and  ornamental  trees  and 
shrubs. 

Horticulturist.     One  who  practices  horticulture. 

Hotbed.  A  frame  covered  with  glass,  cloth,  or  paper,  pro- 
vided with  bottom  heat,  and  used  for  forcing  plants. 

Hothouse.  A  glass  house,  artificially  warmed,  in  which 
plants  are  grown. 

Humus.  Vegetable  mold.  Black  or  brown  earth-like  material 
formed  of  decayed  vegetable  and  other  organic  matter. 

Hy'brid  or  hyb'rid.  The  offspring  of  plants  of  different 
species. 

Hy'bridism  or  hyb'ridism.  The  state,  quality,  or  condition 
of  being  a  hybrid  ;  hybridity. 

Hy'bridist.     One  who  practices  hybridizing. 

Hy'bridity  or  hyb'ridity.     Hybridism. 

Hy'bridization  or  hyb'ridization.  1.  The  state  or  condition 
of  being  hybridized ;  or  the  process  or  act  of  hybridizing. 


GLOSSARY.  285 

2.   The  action  of  the  pollen  of  one  species  upon  the  pistil 

of  another  species. 
Hy'bridizing  or  hyb'ridizing.     The  operation  or  practice  of 

crossing  species. 
Impregnation.      The  action   of  the  pollen  upon  the  pistil ; 

fertilization ;  fecundation. 
Inarching.      The   process   of    grafting   contiguous  plants    or 

branches  while  the  parts  are  both  attached  to  their  own 

roots.     When  the  parts  unite,  one  is  severed  from  its  own 

support. 
Individual  fertilization.     Fertilization  between  flowers  upon 

the  same  plant. 
Inorganic.     Pertaining  to  unorganized  substances,  as  minerals, 

rocks,  chemicals,  etc. 
Insect.     An  articulate  animal  which  in  the  mature  state  has 

three  distinct  divisions  and  six  legs. 
Insecticide.     A  substance  employed  to  destroy  insects. 
Kitchen-garden.      An  area   devoted   to    the    cultivation    of 

"vegetables,"  or  annual  plants  which  yield  edible  parts. 
Kitchen-garden  vegetable.     An  edible  portion  of  an  annual 

plant.     A  loose  term,  commonly  shortened  to  vegetable. 
Landscape-gardening.     The  art  of  embellishing  grounds  in 

such  manner  that  they  shall  have  nature-like  or  landscape 

effects.     It  demands  a  high  appreciation  of  natural  scenery, 

and  an  ability  to  represent  it  in  grounds. 

Landscape-horticulture.     The  operations  and  manual  appli- 
ances employed  in  embellishing  grounds;   the  industrial 

phase  of  landscape-gardening. 
Larva  (pi.  larvce).     The  worm-like  stage  of  insects.     A  larva 

is  commonly  called  a  worm. 

Lawn.     An  area  of  greensward  used  for  ornamental  purposes. 
Layer.     A  shoot  of  a  plant  bent  down  and  partly  or  wholly 

covered  with  earth  with  the  intention  that  it  shall  take 

root,  when  it  can  be  severed  from  and  become  independent 

of  the  parent  plant. 
Layerage.     The  state  or  condition  of  being  layered,  or  the 

operation  or  practice  of  layering  plants. 


286          HORTICULTURIST'S  KULE-BOOK. 

Legume.     A  simple  pod  composed  of  two  valves  or  parts,  as 

pea  and  bean  pods. 

Leguminous.     Of  or  pertaining  to  legumes.     Used  to  desig- 
nate plants  of  the  pea  and  bean  family. 
Loam.     Friable,  mellow,  rich  soil  which  contains  humus,  and 

does  not  bake  or  leach.     Clay  loam  has  a  basis  of  clay. 

Hard  clay  soil  becomes  clay  loam  by  careful  and  thorough 

tillage  and  the  addition  of  humus.     Sandy  loam  has  a  basis 

of  sand,  and  is  formed  from  sandy  soils  by  the  addition  of 

humus. 
Maiden   (adj.).     Applied  to  young  plants  which  have  not 

borne. 
Male.     Used  to  designate  flowers  or  plants  which  bear  only 

stamens. 
Manure.     1.   Any  substance  which   promotes    plant-growth. 

2.   riant-food. 
Microbe.     A  term  applied  to  various  microscopic  organisms 

usually  classed  with  plants,  which  play  an  important  role 

in  disease,  chemical  decomposition,  and  decay. 
Mildew.     A  powdery  or  mold-like  growth  attached  lightly  to 

the  surface  of  the  plant,  particularly  when  it  is  white  or 

nearly  so,  as  gooseberry-mildew. 
Mongrel.     A  cross  between  varieties  of  the  same  species  ; 

half-breed ;  cross-breed  ;  variety-hybrid. 
Monoecious.     Said  of  plants  in  which  the  stamens  and  pistils 

are  borne  in  different  flowers  on  the  same  plant. 
Mother-bulb.     The  large  bulb  about  which  bulbels  are  formed. 
Mycology.     The  science  of  fungi. 
Nursery.    An  establishment  for  the  rearing  of  plants.     In 

America  the  word  is  generally  used  in  connection  with 

woody  plants  only. 

Offscape.     The  landscape  which  lies  adjacent  to  one's  grounds. 
Olericulture.    The  cultivation  of  kitchen-garden  vegetables  ; 

vegetable-gardening. 
Open.     An  implanted  portion  of  grounds;  an  open  lawn  or 

field. 
Order.     Family,  in  botany. 


GLOSSARY.  287 

Organic.     Pertaining  to  organized  or  living  bodies  or  their 

remains. 
Ovary.     The  lower  extremity  of  the  pistil,  which,  when  mature, 

becomes  the  fruit.     It  contains  the  ovules. 
Ovule.     A  body  borne  in  the  ovary,  the  result  of  sexual  union, 

which,  when  mature,  becomes  the  seed. 

Panicle.     An  open  and  more  or  less  compound  flower-cluster. 
Papilionaceous.     Butterfly-like  ;  said  of  flowers  of  the  pea  and 

bean  family,  from  their  fancied  resemblance  to  butterflies. 
Parasite.     A  plant  or  animal  which  lives  upon  living  plants  or 

animals. 
Pedicel.    The  stalk  of  a  particular  flower  in  a  cluster.    A 

flower  which  is  borne  singly  has  a  peduncle. 
Peduncle.     A  stalk  of  a  flower  which  is  borne  singly,  or  of  a 

cluster  of  flowers. 
Pepo.     A  berry -like  fruit  in  which  the  rind  is  hardened,  and 

which  belongs  to  the  gourd  family,  as  the  pumpkin,  melon, 

cucumber,  etc. 

Perfect.     Said  of  flowers  which  bear  both  stamens  and  pistils. 
Perennial.    Persisting  from  year  to  year.    The  term  "  perennial " 

is  commonly  understood  to  designate  herbaceous  plants 

which  live  for  many  years. 
Perianth.     The  leaves  of  a  flower.    Usually  applied  to  those 

flowers  in  which  the  calyx  and  corolla  are  nearly  alike,  as 

the  lily. 
Pet'al,  or  Pe'tal.    One  of  the  separate  parts  of  the  corolla  ;  an 

inner  leaf  of  a  flower. 
Petiole.     The  stem  of  a  leaf. 
Pheiiogam.     One   of    the  class  of    flowering   plants.    These 

plants  propagate  by  seed. 
Pip.     A  term  applied  to  certain  small  seeds  or  seed-like  fruits 

of  berries  and  other  fruits. 
Piping.     A  cutting. 
Pistil.     That  portion  of  the  flower  which  receives  the  pollen 

and  bears  the  seeds.     It  always  has  two  parts,  the  stigma 

and  the  ovary,  and  these  are  usually  connected  by  a  style. 

It  is  the  female  organ  of  the  plant. 


288          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

Pistillate.     Bearing  pistils  alone ;  female. 

Plantlet.    The  little  plant  just  emerged  from  the  seed.    It 

becomes  a  plant  when  it  is  able  to  assimilate  and  lead  an 

independent  existence. 

Pod.     A  dry  seed-vessel  which  splits  open  at  maturity  ;  capsule. 
Pollen.     A  product  of  the  anthers,  which  is  capable  of  fertiliz- 
ing the  stigma.     It  is  usually  granular  and  powdery. 
Pollination.     The  conveyance  of  pollen  from  the  anther  to  the 

stigma. 

Polygamous.     Said  of  plants  or  species  which  bear  both  per- 
fect and  imperfect  flowers. 
Pome.     A  fleshy  fruit  with  a  papery  core  surrounded  by  a 

greatly  thickened  calyx,  as  the  apple,  quince,  etc. 
Race.     A  fixed  variety ;  that  is,  a  variety  which  reproduces 

itself  more  or  less  uniformly  from  seeds. 
Raceme.     A  more  or  less  elongated  and  simple  flower-cluster 

with  one-flowered  pedicels. 
Regermination.    Second  germination.    Seeds  which  have  been 

checked    after    germination   has   begun   may  resume  the 

process  under  favorable  conditions. 
Root.     A  part  of  the  plant  which  bears  neither  leaves  nor  buds, 

and  which  absorbs  nourishment  for  the  plant,  or  serves  as 

a  support  for  it.     It  may  be  subterranean  or  aerial. 
Root-cap.   The  covering  upon  the  end  of  a  growing  root.    The 

elongation  of  the  root  takes  place  just  behind  the  root-cap. 
Root-grafting.     Grafting  upon  the  root. 
Root-hair.     A  very  delicate  prolongation  of  a  cell  of  a  young 

root.     Root-hairs  are  active  agents  in  absorbing  plant-food. 
Rot.     The  decay  of  the  thicker  part  of  plants,  however  brought 

about ;    the    amount     of    moisture    present    determines 

whether  it  shall  be  called  wet  or  dry  rot. 
Runner.     A  procumbent  or  creeping  herbaceous  shoot  which 

takes  root  at  the  joints. 
Rust.     Any  plant-disease  in  which  the  surface  of  the  plant  is 

apparently  converted  into  a  powder  or  scurf,  particularly 

when  of  a  ferruginous  or  blackish  color,  as  wheat-rust. 
Saddle-graft.    A  sort  of  grafting  in  which  the  scion  is  split 


GLOSSARY.  289 

below  and  inserted  over  the  end  of  the  stock,  which  is  cut 

wedge-shape. 
Salad.    A  dish  of  uncooked  herbs,  or  chopped  meat  combined 

with  uncooked  herbs. 

Sap.     A  term  designating  loosely  the  liquid  contents  of  plants. 
Saprophyte.    A  plant  which  lives  upon  dead  or  decaying 

matter,  as  a  mushroom  or  toadstool. 
Scion,  or  Cion.     A  portion  of  a  plant  which  is  mechanically 

inserted  upon  the  same  or  another  plant  with  the  intention 

that  it  shall  grow ;  a  graft.    As  commonly  used,  a  scion, 

in  distinction  from  a  bud,  bears  two  or  more  buds. 
Secondary  hybrid.     A  hybrid  between  hybrids,  or  between 

a  hybrid  and  one  of  its  parents  ;  derivative  hybrid  ;  deriva- 
tion-hybrid. 
Seed.     The  reproductive  organ  of  flowering  plants  ;  a  ripened 

ovule.     Its  essential  part  is  the  embryo,  or  rudimentary 

plant-let. 
Seedage.     The  process  of  propagation  by  seeds,  or  the  state  or 

condition  of  being  propagated  by  seeds. 
Seed-germ.    The  rudimentary  plant  contained  in  the  seed ; 

embryo. 
Seedling.     A  plant  growing  directly  from  the  seed,  without  the 

intervention  of  grafts  or  cuttings. 
Self-fertilization.     The  action  of  pollen  upon  a  pistil  of  the 

same  flower ;  close-fertilization. 
Self-pollination.     The  transfer  of  pollen  to  a  pistil  of  the 

same  flower. 
Se'pal,  or  Sep'al.     One  of  the  separate  parts  of  the  calyx  ;  an 

outer  leaf  of  a  flower. 
Separation.     The   act  or  process  of  multiplying  plants    by 

means  of  naturally  detachable  asexual  organs,  or  the  state 

or  condition  of  being  so  multiplied. 
Shoot.     A  soft  and  growing  branch. 
Shrub.     A  small  and  bushy  woody  plant,  with  no  central  stem 

or  trunk  ;  a  -bush. 
Side-graft.    A  sort  of  grafting  in  which  the  scion  is  inserted 

in  a  slit  or  oblique  cleft  in  the  side  of  the  stock. 
u 


^90          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

Slip.     A  cutting. 

Small-fruit.      Low  and  bush-like  fruit-plants,  and  the  fruits 

they  produce,   as    the    currant,    gooseberry,    blackberry, 

strawberry,  and  the  like. 
Splice-graft.     A  sort  of  grafting  in  which  both  the  scion  and 

stock  are  cut  off  obliquely  and  the  cut  surfaces  applied  to 

each  other,  the  two  scions  being  held  secure  by  bands  of 

string. 

Spore.     The  reproductive  body  of  a  flowerless  plant,  answer- 
ing to  the  seed  of  a  flowering  plant.     It  contains  no  em- 
bryo. ' 
Sport.    A  marked  new  variety  or  form,  coming  from  either  a 

seed  or  a  bud  without  any  apparent  reason.    Commonly 

and  properly  restricted  to  forms  originating  from  buds ;  a 

bud-variety. 

Spur.    A  very  short  and  small  branch  bearing  leaves  or  flowers. 
Stalk.     In  descriptions  of  apples  and  similar  fruits,  the  stem 

or  pedicel. 
Stamen.    That  portion  of  the  flower  which  bears  the  pollen. 

It  consists  of  the  anther  and  filament.    It  is  the  male  organ 

of  the  plant. 

Staminate.     Bearing  stamens  alone  ;  male. 
Stem.     That  portion  of  the  plant  which  bears  leaves  or  buds, 

or  both.     It  may  be  aerial  or  subterranean. 
Stigma.     The  upper  extremity  of  the  pistil  upon  which  the 

pollen  is  received.     It  is  usually  more  or  less  papillose  and 

glutinous. 
Stipule.     A  more  or  less  leaf-like  and  usually  small  appendage 

at  the  base  of  a  petiole.     Stipules  are  borne  in  pairs,  but 

they  are  not  always  present. 
Stock.     1.   The  parentage  of  a  particular  strain  or  variety. 

2.  A  plant  or  part  of  a  plant  upon  which  a  bud  or  graft  is 

set. 
Stolon.     A  decumbent  shoot  which  roots  at  or  near  the  tip,  as 

the  shoots  of  black  raspberries. 
Stove.     A  very  warm  glass  house,  used  for  growing  tropical 

plants. 


GLOSSARY.  291 

Strain.  A  sub-variety,  or  individuals  of  a  variety,  which  has 
been  improved  and  bred  under  known  conditions. 

Stub.  A  portion  of  a  trunk  or  branch  which  has  been  recently 
grafted.  Usually  applied  to  top-grafting. 

Style.  The  more  or  less  slender  portion  of  the  pistil  connect- 
ing the  stigma  and  ovary. 

Tongue-graft.     Whip-graft. 

Top-grafting.     Grafting  upon  the  top  of  a  plant. 

Tree.  A  woody  plant  attaining  the  height  of  a  man  or  more, 
and  having  a  definite  central  stem  or  trunk. 

Truss.    Loosely  applied  to  clusters  of  flowers  or  fruits. 

Tuber.  A  prominently  thickened  root  or  stem,  usually  subter- 
ranean. 

Umbel.  A  flower-cluster  which  is  flat  or  flattish  on  top,  and 
whose  pedicels  start  from  a  common  point,  or  nearly  so. 

Variety-hybrid.  A  cross  between  varieties  of  the  same 
species  ;  half-breed  ;  cross-breed  ;  mongrel. 

Vegetable.  1.  A  plant.  2.  In  horticulture,  an  edible  por- 
tion of  an  annual  plant ;  kitchen-garden  vegetable.  In  the 
latter  sense  a  loose  term. 

Vegetable-gardening.  The  cultivation  of  kitchen-garden 
vegetables  ;  olericulture. 

Vegetation.  1.  Vegetable  or  plant  life.  2.  The  process  or 
act  of  vegetating  or  growing. 

Veneer-graft.  A  sort  of  grafting  in  which  the  scion  is  applied 
to  the  side  of  the  stock,  only  the  bark  being  removed  be- 
tween them. 

Viticulture.     Grape-culture. 

Weed.  A  plant  which  grows  where  it  is  not  wanted  and 
which  becomes  troublesome. 

Whip-graft.  A  species  of  grafting  in  which  the  scion  is 
secured  to  the  stock  by  means  of  a  tongue  which  is  inserted 
in  a  cleft  in  the  stock  ;  tongue-graft. 

Wilding.  A  wild  or  uncultivated  plant.  Commonly  used  to 
designate  the  wild  individuals  of  a  cultivated  species. 

Wind-shake.  An  injury  to  the  trunk  of  a  tree,  consisting  of 
the  more  or  less  complete  separation  of  the  concentric 


292          HORTICULTURIST'S  RULE-BOOK. 

annual  layers  or  of  the  separation  of  the  bark  from  the 

wood.     The  injury  is  commonly  ascribed  to  the  wind,  but 

it  is  oftener  due  to  frost  and  other  causes. 
Winter-killing.     The  process  or  act  by  which  a  plant  is  killed 

by  the  climate  of  winter. 
Worm.     A  term  properly  applied  to  a  large  class  of  legless 

articulated  animals  of  which  the  angleworm,  or  earthworm, 

and  trichina,  are  examples.     The  term  is  commonly,  but 

improperly,  applied  to  the  larvae  of  insects. 


INDEX. 


Abies  pectinate,  seeds  of,  103. 

Abraxis  ribearia,  27. 

Abutilon,  classification,  254. 

Acacias,  classification,  254. 

Acanthacara  similis,  38. 

Acer  dascycarpum,  seeds  of,  103. 

Acer  platanoides,  seeds  of,  103. 

Acer  rubrum,  seeds  of,  103. 

Acer  saccharinum,  seeds  of,  103. 

Aconite,  classification,  253. 

Acorus  gramineus,  165. 

Acre,  number  of  plants  on,  115. 

Acre,  quantity  of  seed  for,  98. 

Acrobasis  Vaccinni,  25. 

Acrocystis  Batatas,  74. 

Actinomena  Kosse,  71. 

Adiantuin  cuneatum,  164. 

Adiantum  gracillimum,  164. 

Adonis,  classification,  253. 

^Esculus,  classification,  254. 

^Esculus  glabra,  seeds  of,  103. 

Agave,  classification,  257. 

Agriculture,  department  of,  239. 

Agrotis,  27. 

Ailanthus  glandulosus,  seeds  of,  103. 

Ailanthus,  weight  of  seeds,  103. 

Alcohol  for  preserving,  188. 

Alcoholic  waxes,  86. 

Alder,  classification,  257. 

Alkali  and  oil,  wash,  9. 

Allen,  Charles  L.,  book  by,  230. 

Almond,  disease  of,  52. 

Almond,  stocks  for,  127. 

Almonds,  classification,  254. 

Aloes  and  soda,  14. 

Aloes,  classification,  257. 

Aloysia  citriodora,  164. 

Althaea,  classification,  254. 

Alyssum,  classification,  253. 


Amaryllis  family,  257. 
Ambergris,  in  perfumery,  190. 
American  Blight,  20. 
American  Carnation  Soc.,  208. 
American  Chrysanthemum  Soc.,  208 
American  Florists,  rules,  195. 
American  Pom.  Soc.,  rules,  193,  201. 
American  Rose  Soc.,  208. 
Ammonia,  sulphate  of,  273. 
Ammoniacal  carbonate  of  copper,  46. 
Ampelidea?,  classification,  254. 
Ampelophaga  Myron,  30. 
Amphicerus  bicaudatus,  21. 
Analyses,  260-276. 
Anarsia  lineatella,  36,  44. 
Angles  of  roofs,  159. 
Angleworm,  17. 
Angoumois  Grain-Moth,  25. 
Anise,  classification,  255. 
Anthomyia  Eaphani,  40. 
Anthonomus  quadrigibbus,  18. 
Anthonomus  suturalis,  25. 
Anthonomus  signatus,  44. 
Ants,  32. 
Aphides,  17. 
Aphids,  fumigating,  6. 
Aphis,  17. 
Aphis  Forbesii,  44. 
Aphis,  on  house  plants,  164. 
Aphis  Persicse-niger,  35. 
Aphodius  granarius,  24. 
Aponogetons,  165. 
Apothecaries'  measure,  131. 
Apothecaries'  weight,  129. 
Apple  boxes,  144. 
Apple,  diseases  of,  53. 
Apple,  how  multiplied,  127. 
Apple,  insects  of,  17. 
Apple-Maggot,  18. 

293 


294 


INDEX. 


Apple,  stocks  for,  127. 

Apples,  analyses  of,  260,  263,  264,  266. 

Apples,  classification,  254. 

Apples,  contents  of  bins,  150. 

Apples,  measures,  140,  142,  143. 

Apples,  pollination  of,  122. 

Apples,  storing,  168. 

Apples,  to  measure  in  bins,  150. 

Apples,  weights  of,  149. 

Apples,  wholesale  quantities,  148. 

Apples,  yield  of,  124. 

Apricot  boxes,  146. 

Apricot,  disease  of,  54. 

Apricot,  insects  of,  21. 

Apricot,  stocks  for,  128. 

Apricots,  analysis  of,  260. 

Apricots,  classification,  254. 

Aquatic  plants,  164,  165. 

Arkansas,  weight  in,  140. 

Arsenate  of  lead,  2. 

Arsenate  of  soda,  2. 

Arsenate  of  soda,  on  walks,  84. 

Arsenic,  1. 

Arsenic  acid,  for  herbaria,  181. 

Arsenite  of  soda  on  walks,  84. 

Arsenites,  2. 

Arsenites  and  glue,  wash,  6. 

Arsenites  and  soap,  13. 

Artichoke,  analysis  of,  264. 

Artichoke,  classification,  255. 

Artichoke,  yield  of,  125. 

Artificial  flowers,  186. 

Artificial  stone,  to  make,  94. 

Artipus  Floridanus,  34. 

Artotrogus  DeBaryanus,  58. 

Asafcetida  for  rabbits,  80. 

Ascochyta  Ellisii,  60. 

Ascomyces  deformans,  64. 

Ash,  classification,  255. 

Ash,  seeds  of,  103,  104. 

Ashes,  analyses  of,  275,  276. 

Asparagus,  analyses  of,  263,  264. 

Asparagus,  classification,  257. 

Asparagus,  insects  of,  21. 

Asparagus  medeoloides,  166. 

Aspidiotus  perniciosus,  42. 

Aster,  disease  of,  54. 

Aster- Worm,  22. 

Attar  of  roses,  190. 

Audoynaud  process,  48. 

Auriculas,  classification,  255. 


Austrian  money,  138. 

Avoirdupois  pound,  in  various  states, 

143. 

Avoirdupois  weight,  129. 
Awards,  rules  for,  201. 
Azaleas,  classification,  255. 
Azolla  Caroliniana,  165. 

Babiana,  classification,  257. 

Bacillus  Cloacae,  57. 

Baedeker,  money  table,  139. 

Bag- Worm,  22. 

Bailey,  L.  H.,  books  by,  229,  234. 

Bailey,  tomato  score,  209. 

Bait,  4. 

Balaninus,  24. 

Balm  of  Gilead,  disease  of,  54. 

Balsam  of  fir,  7. 

Bananas,  wholesale  quantities,  148. 

Bandage,  waxed,  88. 

Barberry,  how  multiplied,  127. 

Barberry,  seeds  of,  103. 

Barker, 'Michael,  book  by,  230. 

Bark-Lice,  17. 

Bark-Louse,  Apple,  18. 

Barley,  analysis  of,  263. 

Barnard,  Charles,  book  by,  229. 

Barnyard  manure,  analyses,  268. 

Barometer  indications,  220. 

Barrels,  mending,  91. 

Barry,  P.,  book  by,  234. 

Baryta,  carbonate  of,  for  mice,  78. 

Basket  plants,  164. 

Basket- Worm,  22. 

Basswood  family,  254. 

Basswood,  seeds  of,  103. 

Battles'  scale  of  points,  214. 

Bean-Bug,  22. 

Bean,  disease  of,  54. 

Beans,  analyses  of,  264. 

Beans,  bushel  of,  140. 

Beans,  classification,  254. 

Beans,  Green  or  Snap,  yield  o£  125. 

Beans,  Lima,  yield  of,  125. 

Bean-Weevil,  22. 

Bearing  age  of  plants,  123. 

Beeches,  classification,  257. 

Beefsteak  geranium,  164. 

Bees,  number  in  a  pound,  150. 

Beeswax  grafting-wax,  86. 

Beet,  diseases  of,  54. 


INDEX. 


295 


Beets,  analyses  of,  263,  264,  267. 

Beets,  weight  of,  141. 

Beets,  yield  of,  125. 

Begonias,  164,  165. 

Belladonna,  classification,  256. 

Bellis  perennis,  166. 

Beinbecia  marginata,  40. 

Benzine,  4. 

Herberts  Aquifolium,  246. 

Berberis  vulgaris,  seeds  of,  103. 

Berries,  weight  of,  141. 

Berries,  wholesale  quantities,  149. 

Betula  alba,  seeds  of,  104. 

Bichloride  of  mercury,  48. 

Biggie,  Jacob,  book  by,  234. 

Bins,  contents  of,  150. 

Birch-bark,  77. 

Birch,  seeds  of,  104. 

Birches,  classification,  257. 

Bird-poisons,  80. 

Bisulphide  of  carbon,  4. 

Bisulphide  of  carbon  and  kerosene,  5. 

Blackberries,  analysis  of,  263. 

Blackberries,  classification,  254. 

Blackberries,  weight  of,  141,  150. 

Blackberry,  diseases  of,  55. 

Blackberry,  how  multiplied,  127. 

Blackberry,  insects  of,  22. 

Blackberry,  yield  of,  125. 

Black-Knot,  68. 

Black,  J.  J.,  book  by,  234. 

Black  Locust,  seeds  of,  104. 

Black-Rot  of  grapes,  59. 

Bleeding,  to  prevent,  89. 

Blepharida  Khois,  44. 

Blight,  of  pear,  66. 

Blister-Beetle,  22. 

Blood,  analysis,  273. 

Blood,  for  rabbits,  79. 

Blood,  in  cement,  91. 

Blueberries,  analysis  of,  268. 

Blue-grass,  83. 

Blue-grass  seed,  bushel  of,  140. 

Blue  vitriol,  49. 

Bog  plants,  165. 

Boiler  cements,  90. 

Boiler  estimates,  156. 

Boilers,  mending,  90,  91. 

Boilers,  to  protect,  160. 

Bone-black,  analyses,  272,  273. 

Bone  charcoal,  analysis,  278. 


Bones,  analyses  of,  273. 

Books,  list  of,  229. 

Borax,  in  glue,  96. 

Bordeaux  mixture,  47. 

Borders,  concrete  for,  92,  93. 

Borer,  Currant,  26. 

Borer,  Flat-headed,  19. 

Borer,  Pin-hole,  36. 

Borer,  Eound-headed,  20. 

Boric  acid  preservative,  187. 

Boston,  dates  for  sowing  at,  109. 

Bostrichus  bicaudatus,  21. 

Botanical  Club  rules,  200. 

Botrytis  vulgaris,  62. 

Bottles,  preparing  old,  189. 

Bottom  onion  sets,  weight  of,  141, 

Box  elder,  seeds  of,  103. 

Boxes  for  fruits,  142-147. 

Bran,  in  bait,  4. 

Bread-fruit,  classification,  256. 

Brickwork,  92. 

Brill,  Francis,  books  by,  282. 

Bruchus  obtectus,  22. 

Bruchus  Pisi,  35. 

Brunswick  green,  in  cement,  92. 

Bucculatrix,  17. 

Buckwheat,  analysis  of,  268. 

Buckwheat,  bushel  of,  140. 

Budding,  126. 

Bud-Moth,  18. 

Buhach,  10. 

Bulletins,  238. 

Bunch,  148. 

Bundle,  148. 

Burning  insects,  5. 

Burpee,  W.  Atlee,  books  by,  232. 

Bush  &  Son  &  Meissner,  book  by,  234 

Bushel,  standards,  140. 

Buttercup,  classification,  253. 

Butternut,  classification,  256. 

Butternut,  seeds  of,  108. 

Buttonwood,  disease  of,  55. 

Cabbage,  analyses  of,  264. 
Cabbage,  classification,  253. 
Cabbage,  Club-root,  55. 
Cabbage,  insects  of,  22. 
Cabbage,  keeping,  168. 
Caeoma  luminatum,  71. 
California  fruit  packages,  144-147. 
California,  rabbit  poisons,  79,  80. 


296 


INDEX. 


California  scores,  209. 

California,  weights  in,  140. 

Caltha  palustris,  165. 

Campbell,  Ella  Grant,  book  by,  280. 

Camphor  for  mice,  78. 

Canada  thistle,  83. 

Canadian  score  cards,  209. 

Cane-Borer,  40. 

Canker- Worm,  19. 

Capacities  of  pipes  and  tanks,  151,  152. 

Caraway,  classification,  255. 

Carbolic  acid,  48. 

Carbolic  acid  and  soap  mixtures,  5. 

Carbolic  acid  and  water,  5. 

Carbolic  acid  emulsion,  5. 

Carbolic  acid  on  walks,  85. 

Carbolized  plaster,  5. 

Carbon,  bisulphide  of,  4. 

Carbonate  of  baryta  for  mice,  78. 

Carbonate  of  copper,  ammoniacal,  46. 

Carbonate  of  copper,  cost,  46. 

Carbonate  of  copper,  precipitated,  48. 

Cardoon,  classification,  255. 

Carex,  85. 

Carman,  E.  S.,  book  by,  282. 

Carnation,  classification,  253. 

Carnation,  diseases  of,  55. 

Carnation,  Twitter,  23. 

Carpenter,  E.  C.,  on  heating,  154. 

Carpocapsa  pomonella,  19. 

Carrot,  classification,  255. 

Carrot,  insect  of,  23. 

Carrots,  analyses  of,  263,  264,  267. 

Carrots,  weight  of,  141. 

Carrots,  yield  of,  125. 

Carya  alba,  seeds  of,  108. 

Caryophyllaceae,  253. 

Castalia,  classification,  253. 

Castanea  vesca,  var.,  seeds  of,  103. 

Catalpa  speciosa,  seeds  of,  103. 

Catchflies,  classification,  253. 

Cattle-feces,  analyses,  268. 

Cattle-urine,  analyses,  269. 

Cauliflower,  analysis  of,  264. 

Cauliflower,  classification,  253. 

Cauliflower,  insects  of,  23. 

Cedar  apples,  53. 

Cedar,  seeds  of,  103. 

Celery,  analysis  of,  264. 

Celery,  classification,  255. 

Celery,  disease  of,  56. 


Celery,  insects  of,  23. 
Celery,  keeping,  169. 
Celsius  thermometer,  158. 
Cements,  90. 
Cement  wash,  5. 
Centigrade  thermometer,  153. 
Ceratocystis  fimbriata,  73. 
Cercospora  angulata,  58. 
Cercospora  Apii,  56. 
Cercospora  beticola,  54. 
Cercospora  circumcissa,  52. 
Cercospora  rossecola,  71. 
Cercospora  Violae,  76. 
Cereal  grains,  classification,  257, 
Chain  measure,  181. 
Chalk,  in  cement,  90. 
Chautauqua  grape  figures,  178. 
Cheese,  in  cement,  91. 
Cherries,  analyses  of,  260,  264. 
Cherries,  classification,  254. 
Cherries,  weight  of,  141. 
Cherry  boxes,  145,  146. 
Cherry,  diseases  of,  56. 
Cherry,  insects  of,  23. 
Cherry,  seeds  of,  103. 
Cherry,  stocks  for,  128. 
Chestnuts,  classification,  257. 
Chestnut,  seeds  of,  103. 
Chestnut-Weevil,  24. 
Chicory,  classification,  255. 
Chinese  sacred  lily,  164. 
Chiswick  flower-pots,  160. 
Chorlton,  William,  book  by,  234. 
Christmas  rose,  classification,  253. 
Chrysanthemum,  classification,  25f 
Chrysanthemum,  insects  of,  24. 
Chrysanthemum,  leaf-spot,  57. 
Chrysanthemum,  scales  of,  214. 
Chrysanthemum,  species,  166. 
Chrysobothris  femorata,  19. 
Cider,  150. 

Citrous  fruits,  scale  of,  209. 
Citrullus,  classification,  255. 
Citrus  trifoliata,  128. 
Cladosporium  carpophilum,  64. 
Cladosporium  fulvum,  74. 
Cladosporiurn  on  orange,  63. 
Classification  of  horticulture,  258. 
Clay,  grafting,  87. 
Clay,  in  cement,  90,  91. 
Clematis,  classification,  253. 


INDEX. 


297 


Click-Beetles,  45. 

Clisiocampa,  21. 

Cloth,  for  sash,  160. 

Cloth,  paints  for,  95. 

Cloth,  waxed,  88. 

Clover,  classification,  254. 

Club-root,  55. 

Coal  ashes,  analyses  of,  275,  276. 

Coal-tar,  for  wounds,  88. 

Coal-tar  fumes,  5. 

Coal-tar  on  walks,  85. 

Cobsea,  classification,  256. 

Coccotorus  scutellaris,  28. 

Cocoanut,  classification,  257. 

Cocoanuts,  how  shipped,  150. 

Cocos  Weddelliana,  164. 

Codlin-Moth,  19. 

Coleosporiuin  Sonchi-arvensis,  54. 

Coleus,  164. 

Coleus,  classification,  256. 

Collecting  specimens,  180. 

Colletotrichum  Lindemuthianum,  54. 

Colletotrichum  Spinaceae,  72. 

Collingwood,  H.  W.,  book  by,  284. 

Collodion  for  wounds,  89. 

Colorado,  weights  in,  140. 

Columbine,  classification,  253. 

Commercial  weight,  129. 

Composite,  255. 

Compositions  of  various  substances, 

260. 

Computation  tables,  129. 
Concrete,  92. 
Conifer*,  257. 

Connecticut,  weights  in,  140,  141. 
Conotrachelus  nenuphar,  20,  38. 
Convolvulaceae,  256. 
Cook's  emulsion,  7. 
Copper,  ammoniacal  carbonate  of,  46. 
Copper  carbonate,  cost  of,  46. 
Copper,  cement  for,  91. 
Copper,  precipitated  carbonate,  48. 
Copper,  sulphate  of,  49. 
Copper  sulphate,  cost  of,  46. 
Copperas,  5. 

Corn,  analyses  of,  263,  264,  266. 
Corn,  bushel  of,  140. 
Corn-cockle,  classification,  253. 
Corn,  contents  of  bins,  150. 
Corn,  diseases  of,  57. 
Corn,  insects  of,  24. 


Corn,  sweet,  weight,  150. 

Corn,  to  measure  in  bins,  150. 

Corn,  yield  of,  125. 

Corrosive  sublimate,  48. 

Corrosive  sublimate,  for  herbaria,  181. 

Corrosive  sublimate  preservative,  187. 

Corrosive  sublimate  wash,  6. 

Cotton,  classification,  254. 

Cottonwood,  disease  of,  57. 

Cottonwood  Leaf-Beetle,  39. 

Covent  Garden  measures,  147. 

Cowslip,  classification,  253. 

Crambus,  24. 

Cranberries,  analyses,  263,  266. 

Cranberries,  classification,  255. 

Cranberries,  weight  of,  141. 

Cranberry  box  in  New  Jersey,  142. 

Cranberry  culture,  258. 

Cranberry,  diseases  of,  57. 

Cranberry,  how  multiplied,  127. 

Cranberry,  insects  of,  25. 

Cranbefry,  yield  of,  125. 

Craponius  insequalis,  29. 

Cresses,  classification,  253. 

Cricket,  40. 

Crinum,  classification,  257. 

Crioceris  Asparagi,  21. 

Crocus,  classification,  257. 

Crosses,  naming,  196,  198. 

Crowfoot  family,  252. 

Crown-Gall,  41. 

Crows,  81. 

Crozier,  A.  A.,  book  by,  232. 

Crozier,  William,  book  by,  229. 

Cruciferse,  253. 

Crystallized  fruit,  170. 

Cubic  measure,  132. 

Cucumber,  analysis  of,  264. 

Cucumber,  diseases  of,  58. 

Cucumber,  insects  of,  25. 

Cucumber,  yield  of,  125. 

Cucumbers,  classification,  254. 

Cucumis  flexuosus,  101,  105. 

Cucurbita  moschata,  241. 

Cucurbitacese,  254. 

Cultivation,  periods  of,  249. 

Cummins,  D.,  book  by,  232. 

Cupric  steatite,  49. 

Cupuliferae,  257. 

Curculio,  Apple,  18. 

Curculio,  Grape,  29. 


298 


INDEX. 


Curculio,  Plum,  20,  88. 
Curl  of  peach  leaves,  64. 
Currant,  diseases  of,  58. 
Currant,  how  multiplied,  127. 
Currant,  insects  of,  26. 
Currant,  yield  of,  125. 
Currants,  analyses  of,  260,  263. 
Currants,  weight  of,  141. 
Customary  weights,  140,  143. 
Customs  rates,  219. 
Cut  flowers,  166. 
Cutting  bottles,  189. 
Cuttings,  126. 
Cut-Worm,  27. 
Cut-Worm,  climbing,  27. 
Cut-W7orms,  bait  for,  4. 
Cyanide  bottle,  188. 
Cylindrosporium  Padi,  67. 
Cyperus  alternifolins,  164,  165. 
Cyperus  Papyrus,  165. 
Cystopus  Ipomcese-panduranae,  74. 

Dactylopius  adonidum,  33. 

Dahlia,  insects  of,  27. 

Daisy,  ox-eye,  83. 

Dakotas,  weight  in,  141. 

Dakruma  convolutella,  29. 

Dalmatian  insect  powder,  10. 

Damping-oif,  58. 

Date,  classification,  257. 

Dates  for  seed-sowing,  108. 

Dates  of  various  fruits,  178. 

Datura  Stramonium,  185. 

Day,  J.  W.,  books  by,  232. 

Definitions,  277. 

Delaware,  weights  in,  140. 

Delphinium,  classification,  253. 

Department  of  agriculture,  239. 

Depressaria  heraclina,  35. 

Derivation  of  names,  247. 

Destroying  affected  parts,  48. 

Dewberry,  how  multiplied,  127. 

Dew-point,  222. 

Diabrotica,  26. 

Dianthus,  classification,  253. 

Dill,  classification,  255. 

Diplosis  pyrivora,  87. 

Directory  of  Experiment  Stations,  233. 

Distances  for  planting,  112, 118. 

Docks,  83. 

Dodders,  classification,  256. 


Dolichos  sesquipedalis,  100,  104. 

Doryphora  decemlineata,  39. 

Dove-manure,  analysis,  271. 

Downing,  A.  J.,  book  by,  234. 

Downing,  Charles,  book  by,  234. 

Dried  flowers,  181. 

Dried  fruit,  149. 

Dried  fruit  boxes,  145. 

Dried  fruits,  packages  for,  145. 

Dried  peaches,  weight  of,  141. 

Dried  plums,  weight  of,  141. 

Dropsy,  63. 

Drying  plants,  180. 

Dry  measure,  130. 

Duck-manure,  analysis,  271. 

Dutch  money,  138. 

Dutch,  names  in,  243. 

Dwarf  Juneberry,  how  multiplied,  127. 

Earthenware  cement,  91. 

Earthworm,  17. 

Eau  celeste,  48. 

Eau  Grison,  49. 

Egg-plant,  classification,  256. 

Egg-plant,  insect  of,  28. 

Egg-plant,  yield  of,  125. 

Eichhornia,  164,  165. 

Eisen,  Gustav,  book  by,  234. 

Ekimis,  150. 

Elaphidion,  21. 

Eleme,  150. 

Elements,  259. 

Elliott,  F.  E.,  book  by,  230. 

Ellwanger,  attar  of  roses,  190. 

Ellwanger,  H.  B.,  book  by,  280. 

Elm,  classification,  256. 

Elm,  insects  of,  28. 

Elm,  seeds  of,  103,  104. 

Emblematic  flowers,  246. 

Emphytus  maculatus,  44. 

Empoa  albopicta,  27. 

Emulsion,  kerosene,  7,  8. 

Endive,  classification,  255. 

Endive,  insect  of,  28. 

Engle.  leaf-prints,  185. 

English  measures,  147. 

English  money,  137. 

English  sparrows,  81. 

Entomosporium  maculatum,  66,  70. 

Entyloma  Ellisii,  72. 

Epiphyllum  truncatum,  164. 


INDEX. 


299 


Ericaceae,  255. 

Erysiphe  Cichoracearum,  58,  75. 

Erysiphe  Martii,  64. 

Erythroneura  vitis,  31. 

Esteve  process,  50. 

Eucharis,  classification,  257. 

Eudeinis  botrana,  29. 

Eudioptis  hyalinata,  33. 

Eudioptis  nitidalis,  25. 

Eufitchia  ribearia,  27. 

Evaporated  fruits,  149. 

Excrements,  analyses  of,  268. 

Exhibition,  rules  of,  201. 

Exhibition,  specimens  for,  187. 

Exoascus  deformans,  64. 

Exoascus  Pruni,  68. 

Experiment  Station  literature,  238. 

Experiment  Stations,  directory,  238. 

Fahrenheit  thermometer,  153. 

Fairchild,  on  pollination,  122. 

Falconer,  William,  book  by,  232. 

Fall  Web-Worm,  19. 

Farmer,  L.  J.,  book  by,  234. 

Feces,  analysis,  268-271. 

Fences,  wash  for,  94. 

Ferns,  in  houses,  165. 

Ferns,  statistics  of,  258. 

Ferry,  D.  M.  &  Co.,  model  garden,  119. 

Fertilization  of  fruits,  121. 

Fertilize!* |  analyses  of,  268,  271. 

Fertilizer^,  values  of,  276. 

Fertilizing  ingredients,  values  of,  276. 

Ficus  elastica,  164. 

Fidia  viticida,  30. 

Fig  boxes,  145. 

Fig,  classification,  256. 

Figs,  grades  of,  150. 

Figs,  how  multiplied,  127. 

Figs,  keeping,  170. 

Filberts,  classification,  257. 

Filices,  258. 

Fir,  seeds  of,  103. 

Fire-proof  cement,  91. 

Fire-proof  paint,  95. 

Fire- Worm,  25. 

Fish,  analysis  of,  273. 

Fitz,  James,  books  by,  232,  234. 

Flag  weather  signs,  225. 

Flat-headed  Borer,  19. 

Flea-Beetle,  18. 


Flies,  11. 

Floors,  cements  for,  92,  93. 

Floral  arrangements,  214. 

Floriculture,  classification,  258. 

Florida  fruit  packages,  143. 

Florists'  plants,  166. 

Flower  gum,  97. 

Flower-pots,  sizes,  159. 

Flower-pots,  to  clean,  161. 

Flower  scores,  214. 

Flowers,  artificial,  186. 

Flowers,  books  on,  230. 

Flowers,  emblematic,  246. 

Flowers,  registration  of,  208. 

Flowers,  to  keep  fresh,  186. 

Fluid  measure,  131. 

Forcing,  plants  for,  165,  166,  167. 

Forcing,  temperatures  for,  167. 

Forest  tree  seeds,  103. 

Formalin,  188. 

Formica,  82. 

Formic  acid  preservative,  188. 

Forsythias,  classification,  255. 

Four-striped  Plant-Bug,  28. 

Fowler,  A.  B.,  book  by,  229. 

Fragaria  Indica,  164. 

Fraxinus  Americana,  seeds  of,  103. 

Fraxinus,  classification,  255. 

Fraxinus  sambucifolia,  seeds  of,  103. 

Fraxinus  viridis,  seeds  of,  104. 

Freesia  refracta,  164. 

French  money,  138. 

French,  names  in,  242. 

French  waxes,  87. 

Fresenius,  analyses  by,  260. 

Frosts,  to  predict,  222. 

Fruit,  measures,  140-147. 

Fruit  packages,  143. 

Fruits,  compositions  of,  260. 

Fruits,  distances  for  planting,  112. 

Fruits,  keeping,  168. 

Fruits,  propagation  of,  127. 

Fruits,  to  preserve,  187. 

Fuchsias,  164,  165. 

Fuller,  A.  S.,  books  by,  229,  234,  235. 

Fulton,  Alexander,  book  by,  235. 

Fumigation,  6. 

Fungicides,  46. 

Fusarium  niveum,  76. 

Fusicladium  dendriticum,  68. 

Fusicladium  pyrinum,  67. 


300 


INDEX. 


Galanthus,  classification,  257. 

Galleruca  xanthomekena,  28. 

Gallons,  in  tanks  and  pipes,  151,  152. 

Galls,  41. 

Garden  borders,  cement  for,  93. 

Gardeners,  rules  for,  193. 

Gary,  Thomas  A.,  book  by,  235. 

Gas,  for  insects,  6. 

Gas-lime,  analyses  of,  276. 

Gelechia  cerealldla,  25. 

Georgia,  dates  for  sowing  in,  111. 

Georgia  fruit  packages,  144. 

Georgia,  weights  in,  140. 

Geraniums,  164,  165. 

German  ivy,  164. 

German  money,  138. 

German,  names  in,  243. 

German  potash  salts,  274. 

Germination  of  seeds,  99. 

Gilia,  classification,  256. 

Gingko,  classification,  257. 

Gipsy-Moth,  29. 

Girdling  by  mice,  77. 

Gironde,  copper  mixture  of,  47. 

Glace  fruit,  170. 

Gladiolus,  classification,  257. 

Glass,  cement  for,  91. 

Glass,  cooling  of,  by  wind,  158. 

Glass,  light  reflected  from,  158. 

Glazing,  161. 

Gleditschia  triacanthos,  seeds  of,  103. 

Glceosporium  fructigenum,  53,  62. 

Gloeosporium  necator,  70. 

Gloeosporium  nervisequum,  67. 

Gloeosporium  Eibis,  58. 

Glossary,  277. 

Glue  and  arsenites  wash,  6. 

Glues,  96. 

Goessmann,  analyses  by,  260,  262,  263, 

265. 

Goff,  emulsion,  8. 
Gooseberries,  analyses  of,  260,  264. 
Gooseberries,  keeping,  171. 
Gooseberries,  weight  of,  141. 
Gooseberry,  how  multiplied,  127. 
Gooseberry,  insects  of,  29. 
Gooseberry,  mildew,  59. 
Gooseberry,  yield  of,  125. 
Goose-manure,  analysis,  271. 
Gopher  remedies,  80. 
Gossypium,  classification,  254. 


Gourds,  classification,  255. 

Grades  of  fruit,  143. 

Grades  of  fruits,  etc.,  150. 

Grading  fruit,  176. 

Grafting,  126,  127. 

Grafting  waxes,  86. 

Grains,  cereal,  257. 

Graminse,  257. 

Grape  boxes.  145. 

Grape,  diseases  of,  59. 

Grape,  how  multiplied,  127. 

Grape,  insects  of,  29. 

Grape,  yield  of,  125. 

Grapes,  analyses  of,  260,  263,  264. 

Grapes,  classification,  254. 

Grapes,  harvesting,  etc.,  178. 

Grapes,  keeping,  171. 

Grapes,  pollination  of,  122. 

Grapes,  weight  of,  141,  150. 

Grapes,  wholesale  quantities,  149. 

Graptodera  chalybea,  30. 

Grass  family,  257. 

Grass  seed,  bushel  of,  140. 

Grass  seed,  for  lawns,  82,  83. 

Grasses,  as  weeds,  83. 

Grasshoppers,  31. 

Grasshoppers,  bait  for,  4. 

Grate  surface,  154. 

Gray,  Asa,  book  by,  229. 

Gray,  Dr.,  herbarium  poison,  181. 

Green,  S.  B.,  book  by,  235. 

Green,  W.  J.,  dried  berries,  150. 

Green-Fly,  17,  32. 

Greenhouse  heating,  154. 

Greenhouse  heating,  book  on,  229. 

Greenhouse  work,  etc.,  154. 

Gregory,  J.  J.  H.,  books  by,  233. 

Greiner,  T.,  books  by,  233. 

Grison  liquid,  49. 

Ground-Squirrel  remedies,  80. 

Grout,  92. 

Gryllotolpa  borealis,  39. 

Guano,  analysis,  271. 

Guernsey  lily,  classification,  257. 

Gum-ammoniac,  91. 

Gum-galbanum,  91. 

Gum-mastic,  91. 

Gum  or  glue,  97. 

Gurney,  C.  W.,  book  by,  285. 

Gymnosporangium,  53. 

Gypsum,  analysis  of,  275. 


INDEX. 


301 


Hackberry,  classification,  256. 

Hair,  for  plastering,  92. 

Half-sieve,  147. 

Halliday,  Eobert  J.,  books  by,  230. 

Haltica  rufipes,  36. 

Haltica  striolata,  28. 

Hand,  148. 

Hanging  plants,  164. 

Harcourt,  Helen,  book  by,  235. 

Hardy  catalpa,  seeds  of,  103. 

Hardy  vegetables,  112. 

Harlequin  Cabbage-Bug,  23. 

Harris,  Joseph,  book  by,  233. 

Hay,  estimate  of  stacks,  151. 

Hazels,  classification,  257. 

Healing-paint,  88. 

Heath  family,  255. 

Heating  greenhouses,  154. 

Heinrich,  Julius  J.,  book  by,  230. 

Helianthus  tuberosus,  241. 

Heliothis  armiger,  45. 

Hellebore,  classification,  257. 

Hellebore,  white,  16. 

Helotropha  atra,  24. 

Hemp,  classification,  256. 

Henderson,  dates  for  sowing,  110. 

Henderson,  Peter,  books  by,  229,  230, 

233. 

Hen-manure,  analysis,  271. 
Herbarium,  poisons  for,  181. 
Herbarium  specimens,  180. 
Heterodera  radicicola,  41. 
Heterosporium  echinulatum,  56. 
Hibiscus,  classification,  254. 
Hickories,  classification,  256. 
Hickory  (Shellbark),  seeds  of,  103. 
Hilgard's  wash,  14,  50. 
Hills,  William  H.,  book  by,  235. 
Hinges,  to  preserve,  96. 
Hippeastrum,  classification,  257. 
Histories  and  names,  247,  249. 
Hoffmann,  on  phenology,  227. 
Hollyhock-Bug,  32. 
Hollyhock,  classification,  254. 
Hollyhock  disease,  62. 
Honesty,  classification,  253. 
Honey-locust,  seeds  of,  103. 
Hop,  classification,  256. 
Hornbeam,  classification,  257. 
Horse-chestnuts,  classification,  254. 
Horse-chestnut,  seeds  of,  103. 


Horse-feces,  analysis,  269. 
Horseradish,  analysis  of,  264. 
Horseradish,  classification,  253. 
Horseradish,  yield  of,  125. 
Horse-urine,  analysis,  269. 
Horticulture,  classification  of,  258. 
Hoskin's  wax,  88. 
Hotbed  sash,  160. 
Hot  iron  for  bleeding  vines,  89.     • 
Hot  water  for  insects,  7. 
Household  measures,  133. 
House-plants,  insects,  32. 
Hubbard-Riley  emulsion,  7. 
Huckleberries,  classification,  255. 
Human  feces,  analysis,  270. 
Human  urine,  analysis,  270. 
Hunt,  M.  A.,  book  by,  231. 
Husk  tomato,  classification,  256. 
Husmann,  books  by,  235. 
Hutchins,  Eev.  W.  T.,  book  by,  231. 
Hyacinths,  164. 
Hyacinths,  classification,  257. 
Hybrids,  naming,  196,  198. 
Hydrocleys  Coinmersonii,  166. 
Hydrocyanic  gas,  6. 
Hyphantria  cunea,  19. 

Illinois,  weights  in,  140. 
Impost  rules,  215. 
Inarching,  126. 
Indiana,  weights  in,  140,  141. 
Indian  corn,  classification,  257. 
Ink  for  labels,  192. 
Insecticides,  1. 
Insects,  17-45. 
Insects,  collecting,  188. 
Iowa,  weights  in,  140,  141. 
Ipomoea  pandurata,  74. 
Iridacese,  257. 
Iris,  classification,  257. 
Iris  family,  257. 
Iron,  cement  for,  90. 
Iron-filings,  in  cement,  90,  91. 
Iron,  hot,  for  bleeding  vines,  89. 
Iron,  sulphate  of,  5,  50. 
Ironwood,  classification,  257. 
Isosoma  vitis,  29. 
Italian  money,  138. 
Italian,  names  in,  243. 
Ivory-black,  in  cement,  92. 
Ixia,  classification,  257. 


302 


INDEX. 


Jasmine,  classification,  255. 

Jewelers'  weight,  129. 

Johnson,  Eev.  E.  A.,  book  by,  281. 

Johnson,  S.  W.,  analyses  by,  260. 

Journals,  list  of,  236. 

Judging  fruits  and  flowers,  208. 

Juglandaceae,  256. 

Juglans  cinerea,  seeds  of,  103. 

Juglans  nigra,  seeds  of,  103. 

Juncus  effusus,  variegated,  166. 

Juneberries,  classification,  254. 

June-grass,  83. 

Juniperus  Virginiana,  seeds  of,  103. 

Junk,  148. 

Kainit,  analysis  of,  275. 
Kainit  for  insects,  10. 
Kansas,  weights  in,  140,  141. 
Katydid,  34,  38. 
Kedzie,  analyses  by,  262. 
Kedzie,  on  frosts,  222. 
Keeping  fruits,  168. 
Keeping-power  of  seeds,  104. 
Kemp,  Edward,  book  by,  231. 
Kentucky,  weights  in,  140,  141. 
Kerosene  and  bisulphide  carbon,  5. 
Kerosene  and  condensed  milk  emul- 
sion, 8. 

Kerosene  and  milk  emulsion,  8. 
Kerosene  and  water  emulsion,  8. 
Kerosene  emulsion,  7. 
Kerosene  for  insects,  7. 
Kerosene  to  preserve  fruits,  188. 
Kettles,  mending,  91. 
Kitchen  garden,  model,  119. 
Knitting  cotton  for  grafting,  88. 
Kohlrabi,  classification,  253. 
Kohlrabi,  yield  of,  125. 

Labels,  191. 
Labels,  gum  for,  97. 
Labiate,  256. 
Lachnosterna  fusca,  32. 
Lacy,  T.  Jay,  book  by,  235. 
Lady-slippers,  classification,  257. 
Lsestadia  Bidwellii,  59. 
Lamborn,  L.  L.,  book  by,  231. 
Lampblack,  in  cement,  92. 
Land  plaster,  analysis,  275. 
Landreth,  Burnet,  book  by,  233. 
Landscape  gardening,  books  on,  229. 


Landscape  horticulture,  258. 

Lansing,  dates  for  sowing  at,  108. 

Larkspur,  classification,  253. 

Laurels,  classification,  255. 

Lavender  bag,  190.     . 

Lawns,  ants  in,  32. 

Lawns,  to  make,  82,  83. 

Layering,  126. 

Lead,  arsenate  of,  2. 

Lead,  red,  for  cement,  90. 

Leaf-Crumpler,  32. 

Leaf-Curl,  64. 

Leaf-Hopper  27. 

Leaf-Prints,  185. 

Leather,  paints  for,  95. 

Lecanium,  39. 

Lefort's  wax,  86. 

Legal  weights,  140. 

Leguininosse,  254. 

Lelong,  B.  M.,  book  by,  235. 

Lemon  scores,  212. 

Lemons,  wholesale  quantities,  149. 

Lettuce,  analyses  of,  264. 

Lettuce,  classification,  255. 

Lettuce,  diseases  of,  62. 

Lettuce,  insects  of,  32. 

Leuchars,  on  cooling  glass,  158. 

Leucoium,  classification,  257. 

Lice,  32. 

Lichen  on  trees,  62,  85. 

Light  reflected  from  glass,  158. 

Ligustrum,  classification,  256. 

Lilacs,  classification,  255. 

Lilium  Harrisii,  166. 

Lily  family,  257. 

Lily-of-the-valley,  85,  166,  167. 

Lima  bean,  disease  of,  54. 

Lime  and  soap,  13. 

Lime,  in  cement,  91. 

Lime,  on  walks,  84. 

Lime  spray,  8. 

Limnanthemum,  165. 

Limnocharis  Humboldtii,  165. 

Lina  scripta,  39. 

Lindens,  classification,  254. 

Linear  measure,  131. 

Line  measure,  131. 

Linseed  oil,  in  cement,  90. 

Linseed  oil,  in  washes,  94. 

Linseed  oil,  in  wax,  86. 

Liquid  manure,  163. 


INDEX. 


303 


Liquid  measure,  130. 
Liquid  putty,  161. 
Literature,  229. 
Litharge,  in  cement,  91. 
Live-forever,  83. 
Liver  of  sulphur,  50. 
Livingston,  A.  W.,  book  by,  233. 
Lixus  concavus,  41. 
Locusts,  classification,  254. 
Lodeman,  E.  G.,  book  by,  230. 
London  purple,  2. 
Long,  E.  A.,  books  by,  231. 
Longevity  of  fruit-plants,  124. 
Longevity  of  seeds,  104. 
London's  rules,  193. 
Louisiana,  weights  in,  140. 
Love-in-a-mist,  classification,  253. 
Lunaria,  classification,  253. 
Lychnis,  classification,  253. 
Lycopersicum,  classification,  256. 
Lye  and  sulphur  wash,  9. 
Lye  and  whale-oil  soap,  9. 
Lye  wash,  9. 

Lysimachia  nummularia,  85. 
Lytta,  22. 

Maceration,  skeletonizing  by,  185. 
Madura  aurantiaca,  seeds  of,  103. 
McMillan,  William,  book  by,  231. 
McNeil,  J.  W.,  book  by,  235. 
Macrodactylus  subspinosus,  42. 
Macrosila  quinquernaculata,  45. 
Macrosporium  Solani,  69. 
Macrosporium  Tomato,  75. 
Maggot,  apple,  18. 
Maggot,  cabbage,  23. 
Magnesia,  sulphate  of,  274. 
Magnolia  family,  253. 
Mahernia  odorata,  164. 
Mail  rates,  215. 
Maine,  weights  in,  140,  141. 
Maize,  diseases  of,  57. 
Mallow  family,  254. 
Malva,  classification,  254. 
Malvaceae,  254. 
Mangels,  analysis  of,  263. 
Mangels,  weight  of,  141. 
Manure,  liquid,  163. 
Manures,  analysis  of,  268. 
Manville,  A.  H.,  book  by,  235. 
Maple  disease,  62. 


Maple  family,  254. 

Maple,  seeds  of,  103. 

Margaronia  quadristigmalis,  39. 

Marguerite,  166. 

Market  dates,  178. 

Marsh-marigold,  classification,  253. 

Marvin,  Arthur  Tappan,  book  by,  235. 

Maryland,  weights  in,  140. 

Mason-work,  estimates,  92. 

Massachusetts  Hort.  Soc.  rules,  202. 

Massachusetts,  weights  in,  140,  141. 

Mastics,  86. 

Mathews'  scale  of  points,  214. 

Mathews,  F.  Schuyler,  book  by,  231. 

Maturities  of  various  crops,  123. 

May-Beetle,  32. 

May-Bug,  32. 

Maynard,  lettuce  mildew,  78. 

Maynard,  wash,  78. 

Mealy  Bug,  33,  164. 

Measures,  legal,  140. 

Measures,  miscellaneous,  132. 

Measures,  tables  of,  130. 

Medlar,  stocks  for,  128. 

Meech,  W.  W.,  books  by,  235. 

Melampsora  populina,  68. 

Melittia  Ceto,  43. 

Melon  boxes,  145. 

Melon  disease,  63. 

Melon,  insects  of,  33. 

Melons,  classification,  255. 

Melons,  wholesale  quantities,  149. 

Mercuric  bichloride,  48. 

Metals,  to  prevent  rusting,  96. 

Methylated  spirit,  in  cement,  91. 

Metric  tables,  134. 

Mice,  to  protect  from,  77,  78. 

Michigan  Hort.  Soc.  rules,  204. 

Michigan,  weights  in,  140,  141. 

Microcentrum  retinervis,  34. 

Micrococcus  amylovorus,  66. 

Middlings,  in  bait,  4. 

Mineral  pitch,  93. 

Minnesota,  weights  in,  140. 

Mint  family,  256. 

Mints,  classification,  256. 

Missouri,  weights  in,  140,  141. 

Mite,  33,  34. 

Mitzky,  C.,  &  Co.,  book  by,  235. 

Model  kitchen  garden,  119. 

Mole-Cricket,  39. 


304 


INDEX. 


Money  tables,  137. 
Moneywort,  85. 
Monifia  fructigena,  56,  64. 
Monilochsetes  infuscans,  73. 
Montana,  weights  in,  140,  141. 
Montbretia,  classification,  257. 
Moore,  Eev.  T.  W.,  book  by,  235. 
Morning-glory  family,  256. 
Mortars,  90. 
Morthiera  Mespili,  66. 
Morton,  James,  books  by,  231. 
Mosquito-bar  covering,  81. 
Mosquitoes,  11. 
Moss,  on  lawns,  85. 
Moss,  on  trees,  62,  85. 
Moulton,  F.  C.,  quoted,  2. 
Mountain-ash,  classification,  254. 
Mountain-ash,  seeds  of,  104. 
Mowing  lawns,  83. 
Mulberries,  analyses  of,  260. 
Mulberry,  classification,  256. 
Mulberry,  how  multiplied,  127. 
Mulberry,  stocks  for,  128. 
Mules,  naming,  198. 
Multiplication  of  plants,  126,  127. 
Murgantia  histrionica,  23. 
Muriate  of  potash,  274. 
Mushrocin-Fly,  34. 
Muskmelon  disease,  63. 
Mustard  family,  253. 
Myriophyllum  proserpinacoides,  165. 
Myrtus  communis,  164. 
Mytilaspis  Pomorum,  18. 
Myzus  Perfelcae,  36. 

Nails,  to  preserve,  96. 
Names,  derivations  of,  247. 
Names  in  various  languages,  242. 
Names  of  plants,  241. 
Narcissus,  164. 
Narcissus,  classification,  257. 
National  flowers,  246. 
Native  countries  of  plants,  249. 
Nebraska,  weights  in,  140. 
Nectarine,  stocks  for,  128. 
Negundo  aceroides,  seeds  of,  103. 
Nelumbium,  kinds  of,  165. 
Nemaspora  ampelicida,  60. 
'  Nematus  ventricosus,  26. 
Nerine,  classification,  257. 
Netting,  bird,  81. 


Nettle  family,  256. 

Nettles,  classification,  256. 

Nevada,  weights  in,  140. 

New  Hampshire,  weights  in,  140. 

New  Jersey,  weights  in,  140. 

New  York,  dates  for  sowing  at,  110. 

New  York,  weights  in,  140. 

Nicotyl,  16. 

Nightshade,  classification,  256. 

Nitrate  of  soda,  274. 

Niven,  Robert,  book  by,  233. 

Nomenclature,  rules  of,  193-201. 

Norfolk,  dates  for  sowing  at,  110. 

North  Carolina,  weights  in,  140. 

Nuciculture,  258. 

Number  of  plants  on  an  acre,  115. 

Nuphar  advena,  165. 

Nursery  stock,  diseases  of,  63. 

Nuts,  dates  of,  178. 

Nymphaea  Lotus,  246. 

Nymphaea,  species,  165. 

Nymphaeacese,  253. 

Oak  family,  257. 
Oak-leaves,  analysis  of,  272. 
Oats,  analysis  of,  263. 
Oberea  bimaculata,  40. 
Ochre,  in  waxes,  87. 
Ocneria  dispar,  29. 
(Ecanthus  niveus,  40. 
Oedema,  63. 

Oemler,  A.,  book  by,  233. 
Oemler,  dates  for  sowing,  111. 
Ohio,  weights  in,  140,  141. 
Oil  and  alkali  wash,  9. 
Oil  of  vitriol  on  walks,  84. 
Olea,  classification,  256. 
Oleaceae,  255. 

Olericulture,  classification,  258. 
Olive,  classification,  255. 
Olive,  how  multiplied,  127. 
Oncideres  cingulatus,  38. 
Onion,  analysis  of,  264. 
Onion  book,  233. 
Onion,  classification,  257. 
Onion,  diseases  of,  63. 
Onion-Maggot,  34. 
Onion,  yield  of,  125. 
Onions,  bushel  of,  140. 
Onions,  storing,  174. 
Oospora  scabies  on  beet,  55. 


INDEX. 


305 


Oospora  scabies  on  potatoes,  69. 

Orange  disease,  63. 

Orange,  how  multiplied,  127. 

Orange,  insects  of,  34. 

Orange  packages,  143,  145. 

Orange  scores,  209. 

Orange,  stocks  for,  128. 

Orange  trees,  distance  for  planting,  113. 

Oranges,  analyses  of,  261. 

Oranges,  keeping,  174. 

Oranges,  wholesale  quantities,  149. 

Orchard  culture,  classification,  258. 

Orchidaceae,  257. 

Orchid  family,  257. 

Oregon,  weights  in,  140. 

Orgyia  leucostigma,  21. 

Orris-root,  190. 

Orthotylus  delicatus,  32. 

Osage-orange,  classification,  256. 

Osage-orange,  seeds  of,  103. 

Oscinis,  24. 

Othonna  crassifolia,  164. 

Othonnopsis  cheirifolia,  164. 

Otto  of  roses,  190. 

Out-buildings,  wash  for,  94. 

Ouvirandra  fenestralis,  165. 

Ox-eye  daisy,  83. 

Packages  for  fruits,  142-147. 

Tacking  fruit,  176. 

Paint,  estimates  of,  96. 

Paints,  94. 

Paleacrita  vernata,  19. 

Palm  family,  257. 

Pansy  rust,  63. 

Paper-birch,  77. 

Paper  for  artificial  flowers,  186. 

Paper,  for  sash,  160. 

Paper,  paint  for,  96. 

Papers,  list  of,  236. 

Papilio  Asterias,  34. 

Papyrus,  165. 

Paraffine  oil,  7. 

Paris  code,  197. 

Paris  daisy,  166. 

Paris  green,  3. 

Parsley,  classification,  255. 

Parsley-Worm,  34. 

Parsnip,  analysis  of,  264. 

Parsnip,  classification,  255. 

Parsnip,  insects  of,  35. 


Parsnips,  weight  of,  141. 

Parsnips,  yield  of,  125. 

Parsons,  analyses  by,  261. 

Parsons,  Samuel,  Jr.,  book  by,  231. 

Parsons,  S.  B.,  book  by,  231. 

Partrigeon  Bordeaux  mixture,  47. 

Party  flowers,  246. 

Pattison,  W.  M.,  keeping  grapes,  172. 

Pea  boxes,  144,  147. 

Pea-Bug,  85. 

Pea  mildew,  64. 

Pea-Weevil,  35. 

Pea,  yield  of,  125. 

Peach   and    other   stone   fruits,    how 

multiplied,  127. 
Peach  boxes,  146. 
Peach,  diseases  of,  64. 
Peach,  insects  of,  35. 
Peach,  stocks  for,  128. 
Peach,  yield  of,  126. 
Peaches,  analyses  of,  360, 2S2,  263. 
Peaches,  classification,  254. 
Peaches,  measures,  140,  142,  143. 
Peaches,  weight  of,  141. 
Peaches,  wholesale  quantities,  149. 
Pear  boxes,  144,  147. 
Pear,  diseases  of,  66. 
Pear,  how  multiplied,  127. 
Pear,  insects  of,  37. 
Pear,  stocks  for,  128. 
Pear,  yield  of,  125. 
Pears,  analyses  of,  260,  264. 
Pears,  barrel  of,  142. 
Pears,  classification,  254. 
Pears,  pollination  of,  121. 
Pears,  storing,  174. 
Pears,  wholesale  quantities,  149. 
Peas,  analyses  of,  264,  266,  267. 
Peas,  bushel  of,  140. 
Peas,  classification,  254. 
Pelargoniums,  164. 
Pennsylvania,  weights  in,  140. 
Peony,  classification,  253. 
Pepper,  yield  of,  125. 
Perfumery,  190. 
Periodicals,  list  of,  236. 
Periwinkle,  85. 
Peronospora  effnsa,  72. 
Peronospora  gangliformis,  62. 
Peronospora  Schleideniana,  63. 
Perouospora  Violae,  63,  76. 


306 


INDEX. 


Peronospora  viticola,  61. 

Persian  insect  powder,  10. 

Persimmon,  Japanese,  stocks  for,  128. 

Persimmon  Twig-Girdler,  38. 

Persimmons,  analysis,  261. 

Peruvian  guano,  271. 

Phenic  acid,  48. 

Phenology,  226. 

Phin,  John,  book  by,  235. 

Phlegethontius  celeus,  45. 

Phlox  Drummondii,  classification,  256. 

Phlox  family,  256. 

Phoma  Batatse,  73. 

Phoma  ustulatum,  60. 

Phoma  Uvarum,  60. 

Phoma  uvicola,  59. 

Phorbia  Brassiere,  23. 

Phorbia  Ceparum,  34. 

Phosphorus  for  mice,  78. 

Phoxopteris  comptana,  44. 

Phragmidium  mucronatum,  72. 

Phycis  indigenella,  32. 

Phyllosticta  acericola,  62. 

Phyllosticta  ampelopsidis,  60. 

Phyllosticta  bataticola,  78. 

Phyllosticta  Chenopodii,  72. 

Phyllosticta  Labruscae,  60. 

Phyllosticta  on  beet,  54. 

Phyllosticta  viticola,  60. 

Phyllotreta  vittata,  28. 

Phylloxera,  30. 

Physalospora  Bidwellii,  60. 

Phytophthora  Cactorum,  58. 

Phytophthora  infestans,  69. 

Phytophthora  Phaseoli,  54. 

Phytoptus  Pyri,  37. 

Pickle-Worm,  25. 

Pieris  Kapse,  22. 

Pine  family,  257. 

Pine,  seeds  of,  103. 

Pineapple,  Katydid,  38. 

Pineapples,  wholesale  quantities,  148. 

Pin-hole  Borer,  86. 

Pink  family,  253. 

Pinks,  classification,  253. 

Pinus  Strobus,  seeds  of,  103. 

Pipe,  dimensions  of,  157. 

Pipe,  size  of  for  heating,  156. 

Pipes,  capacities  of,  151. 

Pipes,  mending,  91. 

Piqueria  trinervia,  166. 


Pistia  Stratiotes,  166. 

Pitch,  in  washes,  94. 

Pitch,  mineral,  93. 

Pitch  waxes,  87. 

Plane  tree,  diseases  of,  67. 

Plant  diseases,  52. 

Planting-tables,  108. 

Plant-Lice,  17. 

Plants,  collecting,  180. 

Plants  for  houses,  164. 

Plants,  number  on  an  acre,  115. 

Plasmidiophora  Brassicae,  55. 

Plasm  opara  Cubensis,  63. 

Plaster  and  kerosene,  10. 

Plaster  and  turpentine,  10. 

Plaster,  carbolized,  5. 

Plastering,  estimates  of,  92. 

Plastics,  for  grafting,  86. 

Plowrightia  morbosa,  68. 

Plum  boxes,  146. 

Plum,  diseases  of,  67. 

Plum,  insects  of,  38. 

Plum,  stocks  for,  128. 

Plum,  yield  of,  125. 

Plums,  analyses  of,  263,  264. 

Plums,  classification,  254. 

Plums,  pollination  of,  122. 

Plusia  Brassicae,  32. 

Podeschard's  powder,  49. 

Podosphsera  Oxyacanthse,  53. 

Poecilocapsus  h'neatus,  28. 

Points,  scales  of,  208. 

Poisons,  for  herbarium,  181. 

Poisons  for  mice,  etc.,  78-81. 

Polemoniaceae,  256. 

Polemonium,  classification,  256. 

Poli,  Dr.  Aser,  248. 

Polianthes,  classification,  257. 

Pollination  of  fruits,  121. 

Polyanthuses,  classification,  255. 

Polyporus  versicolor,  67. 

Pomegranate,  how  multiplied,  127. 

Pomegranates,  analysis,  261. 

Pomology,  books  on,  234. 

Pomology,  classification,  258. 

Pomology,  definition,  258. 

Pontederia  cordata,  166. 

Poplar,  disease  of,  68. 

Poplar,  insects  of,  39. 

Portland  cement,  for  concrete,  92-94. 

Postage  rules,  215. 


INDEX. 


307 


Postal  rates,  215. 
Posts,  to  preserve,  192. 
Potash  for  insects,  10. 
Potash,  muriate  of,  274. 
Potash,  sulphate  of,  274. 
Potassium  sulphide,  50. 
Potato,  classification,  256. 
Potato,  diseases,  69. 
Potato,  insects  of,  39. 
Potato,  yield  of,  125. 
Potatoes,  analyses  of,  263,  264. 
Potatoes,  contents  of  bins,  150. 
Potatoes,  measures,  140,  142,  143. 
Potatoes,  to  measure  in  bins,  150. 
Pots,  sizes,  159. 
Pots,  to  keep  clean,  161. 
Potsherds,  in  cement,  90. 
Potting  earth,  162. 
Potting  plants,  162. 
Pottle,  148. 

Powell,  E.  C.,  books  by,  231,  236. 
Preserving  fruits,  187. 
Preserving  posts,  192. 
Pressing  plants,  ISO. 
Prim,  insect  of,  39. 
Primrose,  Chinese,  164. 
Primrose  family,  255. 
Primulaceae,  255. 
Printing  plants,  184. 
Pristophora  identidem,  25. 
Privet,  classification,  255. 
Privet,  insect  of,  89. 
Promoting  growth,  10. 
Propagation,  methods  of,  126, 127. 
Propagation  of  plants,  126,  127. 
Protective  compounds,  94. 
Prunes,  grading,  147. 
Prunus,  classification,  254. 
Prunus  Pennsylvania,  128. 
Prunus  serotina,  seeds  of,  103. 
Psychrometer,  222. 
Psylla  pyricola,  87. 
Pteris  serrulata,  164. 
Pucciuia  Malvacearum,  62. 
Pnccinia  Peckiana,  71. 
Puccinia  Pruni-spinosse,  67. 
Pulse  family,  254. 
Pumpkin,  analysis  of,  264. 
Pumpkin,  disease  of,  70. 
Pumpkins,  classification,  254. 
Punnet,  147. 


Putty,  liquid,  161. 
Pyrethro-kerosene  emulsion,  7. 
Pyrethrum,  10. 

Pyrethrum  cinerariaefolium,  10. 
Pyrethrum  roseum,  10. 
Pyrus  Americana,  seeds  of,  104. 
Pyrus,  classification,  254. 
Pythium  omnivorum,  58. 

Quantity  of  seed  for  acre,  98. 
Quassia,  11. 

Quicklime,  in  cement,  91. 
Quin,  recipes  by,  182,  188. 
Quince,  diseases  of,  70. 
Quince,  how  multiplied,  127. 
Quince,  insects  of,  39. 
Quince,  pollination  of,  122. 
Quince,  stocks  for,  128. 
Quince,  yield  of,  125. 
Quinces,  barrel  of,  142. 
Quinces,  classification,  254. 
Quinces,  storing,  174. 
Quinces,  weight  of,  141. 
Quincunx  planting,  119. 
Quinn,  P.  T.,  books  by,  283,  236. 

Rabbits,  to  protect  from,  78-80. 

Radiating  surface,  155,  156. 

Radish,  analysis  of,  264. 

Radish,  classification,  253. 

Radish-Maggot,  40. 

Railroad-Worm,  18. 

Raisin  boxes,  146. 

Raisins,  grapes  for,  150. 

Ramularia,  72. 

Rand,  E.  8.,  Jr.,  books  by,  231,  232. 

Ranunculacese,  252. 

Raspberries,  analyses  of,  260,  261,  263. 

Raspberries,    black,    how   multiplied, 

127. 

Raspberries,  classification,  254. 
Raspberries,  dried,  150. 
Raspberries,  red,  how  multiplied,  127 
Raspberries,  seeds  in,  150. 
Raspberries,  weight  of,  141. 
Raspberry,  diseases  of,  70. 
Raspberry,  insects  of,  40. 
Raspberry,  yield  of,  125. 
Rats,  78. 

Rattles  of  grapes.  61. 
Rawson,  dates  for  sowing,  109. 


308 


INDEX. 


Rawson,  W.  W.,  books  by,  238. 

Reaumur  thermometer,  158. 

Red  lead,  for  cement,  90. 

Red  ochre,  in  waxes,  87. 

Red  pepper,  classification,  256. 

Red  spider,  40. 

Registration  of  flowers,  208. 

Resin  and  fish  oil,  12. 

Resin  and  petroleum,  12. 

Resin  and  soda  wash,  14. 

Resin  soap,  12. 

Resin,  soda,  and  tallow,  12. 

Resin  wax,  86. 

Rexford,  Eben  E.,  book  by,  232. 

Rhizopus  nigrlcans,  73. 

Rhode  Island,  weights  in,  140,  141. 

Rhodites  radicum,  40. 

Rhodium,  oil  of,  79. 

Rhododendron  Californicum,  246. 

Rhododendrons,  classification,  255. 

Rhopobota  vacciniana,  25. 

Rhubarb,  analysis  of,  264. 

Rhubarb-Curculio,  41. 

Ribes  Grossularia,  59. 

Rice,  analysis  of,  263. 

Rice  corn,  weight  of,  141. 

Robinia  Pseudacacia,  seeds  of.  104. 

Roe,  E.  P.,  books  by,  230,  236. 

Rcestelia,  53. 

Roll,  148. 

Roofs,  angles  of,  159.      , 

Roofs,  light  reflected  from,  158. 

Roofs,  shading,  161. 

Root,  A.  I.,  books  by,  232,  236. 

Root  crops,  weight  of,  141. 

Root-Gall,  41. 

Root  Gall-Fly,  40. 

Root-grafting,  string  for,  88. 

Root-Knot,  41. 

Root-Louse,  20. 

Roots,  measures  of,  140-142. 

Roots,  storing,  174. 

Rosaceae,  254. 

Rose-Beetle,  20,  42. 

Rose  diseases,  71. 

Rose  family,  254. 

Rose,  insects  of,  42. 

Roses,  attar  of,  190. 

Roses,  classification,  254. 

Rosette,  of  peaches,  64. 

Rotation  of  crops,  13,  49. 


Round-headed  Borers,  20. 
Royal  Hort.  Soc.  rules,  195. 
Rubble-work,  92. 
Rules  of  nomenclature,  193. 
Rural  Science  Series,  236. 
Russian  money,  138. 
Rusting  of  metals,  96. 
Ruta-bagas,  analyses  of,  263,  267 
Ruta-bagas,  weight  of,  141. 
Rye,  analysis  of,  263. 

Sacidium  viticolum,  60. 

Sagittaria  Montevidensis,  166. 

Sal  ammoniac,  in  cement,  90. 

Salicylic  acid  preservative,  187. 

Salsify,  classification,  255. 

Salsify,  yield  of,  125. 

Salt  and  lime  wash,  13. 

Salt,  in  cement,  90. 

Salt  on  walks,  84. 

Salvinia  natans,  166. 

Sand,  drying  plants  in,  183. 

Sand,  in  cement,  91. 

Sanina  exitiosa,  36. 

San  Jose  scale,  42. 

Saperda,  20. 

Sapindacese,  254. 

Saponaria,  classification,  253. 

Sarracenia  purpurea,  166. 

Sash,  cloth  and  paper  for,  160. 

Sash,  mending,  91. 

Saunders,  William,  book  by,  236 

Saxifraga  sarmentosa,  164. 

Scab  of  potatoes,  69. 

Scale  in  boilers,  160. 

Scales  of  points,  208. 

Schsefell's  healing-paint,  88. 

Schizocerus  ebenus,  44. 

Schizoneura  lanigera,  20. 

Sciapteron  polistiformis,  30. 

Sen-pus  Tabernaernontani,  166. 

Scolytus  rugulosus,  36. 

Score,  148. 

Score  cards,  209,  214. 

Scott,  F.J.,  book  by,  232. 

Scraping  trees,  85. 

Scribner,  F.  Lamson,  book  by,  236 

Sea-kale,  classification,  253. 

Sealing  cements,  92. 

Seasons  of  various  fruits,  178. 

Seaweed,  analysis,  272. 


INDEX. 


309 


Sediment,  to  prevent,  160. 

Sedum  Sieboldii,  164. 

Seed,  quantity  for  an  acre,  98. 

Seedage,  126. 

Seed-crops,  yields  of,  10T. 

Seeds,  longevity  of,  104. 

Seeds,  number  in  a  pound,  103. 

Seeds,  time  to  germinate,  99. 

Seeds,  weight  and  size  of,  99. 

Seed-tables,  98. 

Selandria  Cerasi,  24. 

Selandria  Kubi,  40. 

Selandria  vitis,  80. 

Self-fertile  fruits,  121. 

Self-sterile  fruits,  121. 

Sempers,  F.  W.,  book  by,  230. 

Senecio  scandens,  164. 

Sensitive  plant,  classification,  254. 

Septoria  cerasina,  67. 

Septoria  Dianthi,  56. 

Septoria,  on  chrysanthemum,  57. 

Septoria  Eibis,  58. 

Septoria  viticola,  60. 

Sesia  Pyri,  37. 

Sesia  tipuliformis,  26. 

Setting  plants,  dates  of,  108. 

Shading  roofs,  161. 

Sheehan,  James,  book  by,  232. 

Sheep-feces,  analysis,  269. 

Sheep,  protecting  trees  from,  78. 

Sheep-urine,  analysis,  269. 

Sieve,  147. 

Signals  of  weather  bureau,  225. 

Signs  of  weather,  220. 

Silene,  classification,  253. 

Silvanus  Surinamensis,  24. 

Size  of  seeds,  99. 

Sizes,  legal  and  society,  141, 143. 

Skeletonizing  plants,  185. 

Skim-milk,  in  washes,  94,  95. 

Slate  flour,  for  cements,  91. 

Small-fruit  boxes,  145. 

Small-fruit  culture,  258. 

Smoking,  6. 

Smudging,  6. 

Snails,  43. 

Snapping-Beetles,  45. 

Snow  plant,  classification,  255. 

Snuff,  13. 

Snuff  and  sulphur,  15. 

Soap  and  arseuites,  13. 


Soap  and  carbolic  acid,  5. 

Soap  and  lime,  13. 

Soap  and  soda,  13. 

Soap  and  tobacco,  14» 

Soap,  fish-oil,  14. 

Society  standards  and  sizes,  143. 

Soda  and  aloes,  14. 

Soda  and  resin  wash,  14. 

Soda  and  soap,  13. 

Soda  and  whale-oil  soap,  14. 

Soda  bisulphite  preservative,  188. 

Soda,  nitrate  of,  274. 

Soda,  resin,  and  tallow,  12. 

Soda,  sulphide,  14. 

Soda  wash,  14. 

Soja  beans,  analysis  of,  263. 

Solanacese,  256.  * 

Solid  measure,  132. 

Solly,  George  A.  &  Son,  book  by,  232 

Sorghum  seed,  analysis,  263. 

Sowing  plants,  dates  of,  108. 

Spalding,  William  A.,  book  by,  236. 

Spanish  money,  138. 

Spanish,  names  in,  243. 

Sparaxis,  classification,  257. 

Sparrows,  to  destroy,  81. 

Specimens,  bottles  for,  189. 

Specimens,  collecting,  180. 

Specimens,  gum  for,  97. 

Sphaceloma  Ampelinum,  59. 

Sphaerella  Fragariae,  72. 

Sphseria  Bidwellii,  60. 

Sphaeria  morbosa,  68. 

Sphseropsis  Malorum,  70. 

Sphaeropsis  uvarum,  60. 

Sphaerotheca  Castagnei,  73. 

Sphserotheca  Mors-uvae,  59. 

Sphaerotheca  pannosa,  71. 

Spinage,  analysis  of,  264. 

Spinage,  diseases,  72. 

Spinage,  yield  of,  125. 

Spireas,  classification,  254. 

Spraying,  defined,  14. 

Spruce  family,  257. 

Square  measure,  132. 

Squash-Borer,  43. 

Squash,  mildew,  72. 

Squashes,  classification,  254. 

Squashes,  keeping,  174. 

Squirrels,  mischief  by,  80. 

Standard  measures,  140. 


310 


INDEX. 


State  flowers,  246. 

States,  legal  measures  in,  140. 

States,  legal  weights  in,  140. 

Statistics  of  vegetable  kingdom,  252. 

Stewart,  Henry,  book  by,  280. 

Stewart,  H.  L.,  book  by,  233. 

Stictocephala  festina,  45, 

Stocks,  classification,  253. 

Stocks  for  fruit  plants,  12T. 

Stocks,  to  measure,  150. 

Stone  cement,  91. 

Stone,  to  make  artificial,  94. 

Storing,  168. 

Stoves,  mending,  91. 

Strawberries,  analyses,  2GO,  261,  264. 

Strawberries,  classification,  254. 

Strawberries,  pollination  of,  122. 

Strawberries,  weight  of,  141. 

Strawberries,  wholesale  quantities,  149. 

Strawberry,  diseases  of,  72. 

Strawberry,  how  multiplied,  127. 

Strawberry,  insects  of,  43. 

Strawberry,  yield  of,  125. 

String,  waxed,  88. 

Strong,  W.  C.,  book  by,  236. 

Strychnine,  79. 

Stucco,  in  plastering,  92. 

Subtropical  fruits,  analyses,  261. 

Suet,  in  waxes,  87. 

Sugar-cane,  classification,  257. 

Sulfo-steatite,  49.  , 

Sulphate  of  ammonia,  273. 

Sulphate  of  copper,  49. 

Sulphate  of  copper,  cost,  46. 

Sulphate  of  iron,  5,  50. 

Sulphate  of  magnesia,  274. 

Sulphate  of  potash,  274. 

Sulphatine  powder,  50. 

Sulphide  of  potassium,  50. 

Sulphide-of-soda  wash,  14,  50. 

Sulphur,  15,  50. 

Sulphur  and  lime,  51. 

Sulphur  and  snuff,  15. 

Sulphur  and  whale-oil  soap,  15. 

Sulphur,  for  preserving  flowers,  182. 

Sulphur,  for  rabbits,  79. 

Sulphur,  on  walks,  84. 

Sulphur  preservative,  187. 

Sulphuret  of  potassium,  50. 

Sulphuric  acid,  51. 

Sulphuric  acid  on  walks,  84. 


Sulphurous  acid  preservative,  187, 
Sumac,  insects  of,  44. 
Sunburn  of  strawberries,  72. 
Sunflower  family,  255. 
Surface  measure,  132. 
Surveyors'  measure,  131,  132. 
Sweet  corn,  weight  of,  150. 
Sweet  herbs,  classification,  256. 
Sweet  potato,  classification.  256. 
Sweet-potato  diseases,  73. 
Sweet-potato  Saw-Fly,  44. 
Sweet  potatoes,  storing,  175. 
Swine-feces,  analysis,  270. 
Swine-urine,  analysis,  270. 
Symbols,  chemical,  259. 
Synchytrium  Vaccinii,  57. 
Syringa,  classification,  256. 
Syrup,  in  bait,  4. 

Tables  of  weights,  etc.,  129. 

Taft,  L.  K.,  book  by,  230. 

Taft,  on  greenhouse  roofs,  159. 

Tallies,  191. 

Tallow,  in  waxes,  86. 

Tallow,  resin,  and  soda  soap,  12. 

Tally,  148. 

Tanks,  capacities  of,  151, 152. 

Taphrina  deformans,  64. 

Tar,  15. 

Tariff  rates,  219. 

Tarred  paper,  78. 

Tartar  emetic  for  mice,  78. 

Temperatures  for  plants,  167. 

Tender  vegetables,  112. 

Tennessee,  weights  in,  140. 

Tent-Caterpillars,  21. 

Teras  vacciniivorana,  25. 

Termites,  45. 

Terry,  T.  B.,  books  by,  234,  236. 

Tetranychus  birnaculatus,  33. 

Tetranychus  6-maculatus,  34. 

Tetranychus  telarius,  40. 

Texas,  weights  in,  140. 

Thermometer  scales,  153. 

Thermometer,  wet  and  dry  bulb,  222 

Thomas,  J.  J.,  book  by,  236. 

Thompson,  Fred  S.,  book  by,  234. 

Thyridopteryx  ephemerseformis,  22. 

Tigridia,  classification,  257. 

Tilia  Americana,  seeds  of,  103. 

Tiliacese,  254. 


INDEX. 


311 


Timber,  to  preserve,  192. 
Tmetocera  ocellana,  18. 
Toad-flax,  83. 
Tobacco,  16. 
Tobacco  and  soap,  14. 
Tobacco,  classification,  256. 
Tobacco-stems,  analysis,  2T2. 
Tomato,  classification,  256. 
Tomato  diseases,  74. 
Tomato,  insects  of,  45. 
Tomato  score,  209. 
Tomato,  yield  of,  1251 
Tomatoes,  keeping,  176. 
Tracy,  W.  W.,  model  garden,  119. 
Tradescantia  zebrina,  164. 
Trade  values,  fertilizers,  276. 
Transplanting,  dates  for,  108. 
Trapa  natans,  166. 
Treat,  Mrs.  Mary,  book  by,  230. 
Tree-Cricket,  40. 
Trees,  seeds  of,  103. 
Trichobaris  trinotata,  39. 
Trifolium  repens,  246. 
Tritonia,  classification,  257. 
Troy  weight,  129. 
True  cowslip,  classification,  255. 
Tryon,  J.  H.,  book  by,  236. 
Trypeta  pomonella,  18. 
Tuberose,  classification,  257. 
Tuberous  begonias,  book  on,  232. 
Tulip,  classification,  257. 
Tulip  tree,  classification,  253. 
Turnip,  classification,  253. 
Turnip-Maggot,  45. 
Turnip,  yield  of,  125. 
Turnips,  analyses  of,  263,  264,  267. 
Turnips,  bushel  of,  140. 
Turpentine,  in  emulsion,  7. 
Turpentine,  in  waxes,  87. 
Tussock-Moth,  21. 
Twig-Borer,  21. 
Twig-Pruners,  21. 
Twitter,  of  carnations,  23. 
Tyloderma  Fragariae,  43. 
Typha  latifolia,  166. 
Typhlocyba  Eosse,  42. 

Ulmus  Americana,  seeds  of,  104. 
Ulmus  fulva,  seeds  of,  104. 
Ulmus  racemosa,  seeds  of,  103. 
Umbelliferse,  255. 


Uncinula  spiralis,  61, 
United  States  weather  signs,  226. 
Urine,  analysis,  269-271. 
Urocystis  Cepulse,  63. 
Uromyces  Betae,  55. 
Uromyces  caryophyllinus,  56. 
Urticaceae,  256. 
Ustilago  Maydis,  57. 

Vallota,  classification,  257. 

Vallota  purpurea,  164. 

Values  of  fertilizing  materials,  276. 

Van  Bochove,  G.,  book  by,  234. 

Vanessa  antiopa,  45. 

Vaughan,  J.  C.,  book  by,  234. 

Vegetables,  books  on,  232. 

Vegetables,  compositions  of,  266. 

Vegetables,  date  of  sowing,  108. 

Vegetables,  distances  for  planting,  113. 

Vegetables  for  forcing,  165. 

Vegetables,  keeping,  168. 

Vegetables,  names  of,  241. 

Vegetables,  naming,  194. 

Vegetables,  tender  and  hardy.  112. 

Venetian  red,  in  waxes,  88. 

Verbena  mite,  33. 

Verbena  rust,  75. 

Vermont,  weights  in,  140,  141. 

Veratrum  album,  16. 

Vicia  Faba,  241. 

Victoria  regia,  166. 

Vilmorin,  seed-tables,  99,  104. 

Vinca  minor,  85. 

Vinca  variegata,  164. 

Vines,  to  prevent  bleeding,  89. 

Violet,  disease  of,  76. 

Violet  family,  253. 

Virginia,  weights  in,  140. 

Vitacese,  254. 

Viticulture,  classification,  258. 

Vocabulary,  277. 

Volutella,  on  carnation,  55. 

Waite,  on  pollination,  121,  122. 
Walks,  concrete  for,  92,  93. 
Walks,  to  make,  84,  92. 
Wallflower,  classification,  253. 
Walls,  washes  for,  95. 
Walnut  family,  256. 
Walnut,  seeds  of,  103. 
Wandering  Jew,  164,  165. 


312 


INDEX. 


Washes,  for  fences,  etc.,  94. 
Washes,  for  trees,  12-16,  50. 
Washington,  weights  in,  140,  141. 
Washington,  wholesale  quantities  in, 

148. 

Water,  in  pipes  and  tanks,  151,  152. 
Water-lily  family,  253. 
Watering  plants,  163. 
Watering-pots,  mending,  91. 
Watermelon,  classification,  255. 
Watermelon,  diseases  of,  76. 
Watermelons,  how  shipped,  150. 
Watermelons,    wholesale     quantities, 

149. 

Waterproof  cloth,  160. 
Water-proofing  paints,  95. 
Waterproof  paper,  160,  186. 
Watson,  B.  M.,  Jr.,  quoted,  126. 
Waxes,  for  grafting,  86. 
Weather,  220. 

Weather  bureau  signals,  225. 
Webb,  James,  book  by,  236. 
Weber,  analyses  by,  261. 
Web- Worm,  19. 
Weed,  C.  M.,  books  by,  230. 
Weeds,  82-84. 

Weidenmann,  J.,  book  by,  232. 
Weight  of  seeds,  99. 
Weights,  legal,  140. 
Weights  of  apples,  149. 
Weights,  tables  of,  129. 
Wells,  capacities  of,  151. 
West  Virginia,  weights  in,  140. 
Whale  oil  and  soda,  14. 
Whale  oil  and  sulphur,  15. 
Whale-oil  soap,  16. 
Wheat,  analysis  of,  263. 
Wheat,  bushel  of,  140. 
Whistle  weather  signs,  226. 


White  ants,  45. 
White  hellebore,  16. 
White,  J.  J.,  book  by,  236. 
White,  William  N.,  book  by,  234. 
Whiting,  in  cement,  92. 
Whitner,  J.  N.,  book  by,  234. 
Wholesale  quantities,  148. 
Whortleberries,  classification,  255. 
Wickson,  E.  J.,  book  by,  236. 
Wickson,  fruit  packages,  144. 
Wild  peaches,  weight  of,  141. 
Willow- Worm,  45. 
Wind,  cooling  glass,  158. 
Window-garden  plants,  164. 
Window-garden  work,  154. 
Window-screen  protector,  78. 
Wintergreen,  classification,  255. 
Wire-Worm,  45. 
Wisconsin,  weights  in,  140,  141. 
Wolff,  analyses  by,  264. 
Wood  alcohol,  in  cement,  91. 
Wood,  to  preserve,  192. 
Woodward,  F.  W.,  book  by,  236. 
Woodward,  George  E.,  book  by,  286 
Woolverton,  score  cards,  209. 
Wounds,  waxes  for,  38. 

Xyleborus  Pyri,  37. 

Yellow  ochre,  in  waxes,  8T. 
Yellows,  in  peaches,  65. 
Yields,  124. 

Yields  of  seed-crops,  107. 
Yuccas,  classification,  257. 

Zebrina  pendula,  164. 

Zinc  chloride  preservative,  187. 

Zizania  aquatica,  166. 


THE  RURAL  SCIENCE  SERIES. 

NOW    READY. 

The  Soil.     By  FRANKLIN  H.  KING,  Professor  of  Agricultural  Physics, 

University  of  Wisconsin.     i6mo.     Cloth,     pp.  303.      75  cents. 
The  Spraying  of  Plants.     By  ERNEST  G.  LODEMAN,  Cornell  University. 

PP-  399-     #1-00. 

IN    PREPARATION. 

The  Apple  in  North  America.     By  L.  H.  BAILEY,  Editor  of  the  Series. 

The  Fertility  of  the  Land.     By  I.  P.  ROBERTS,  Cornell  University. 

Milk  and  its  Products.     By  H.  H.  WING,  Cornell  University. 

Bush  Fruits.     By  FRED  W.  CARD,  University  of  Nebraska. 

The  Grass.     By  W.  H.  BREWER,  Yale  College. 

The  Feeding  of  Animals.     By  W.  H.  JORDAN,  Experiment  Station  of 

Maine. 
Leguminous  Plants  and  Nitrogen-Gathering.      By  E.  W.  HILGARD, 

University  of  California. 

Irrigation.     By  F.  H.  KING,  author  of  "The  Soil." 
Seeds  and  Seed-Growing.     By  GILBERT   H.  HICKS,  Curator  of  Seeds, 

Division  of  Botany,  Department  of  Agriculture. 
Physiology  of  Plants.     By  J.  C.  ARTHUR,  Purdue  University. 
Pathology  of  Plants.     By  B.  T.  GALLOWAY,  Chief  of  the  Division  of 

Vegetable  Pathology,  Department  of  Agriculture,  assisted  by  ERWIN 

F.  SMITH  and  ALBERT  F.  WOODS. 


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APPLICATION  OF  LIQUIDS  AND  POWDERS  TO  PLANTS  FOR  THE 

PURPOSE  OF  DESTROYING  INSECTS  AND  FUNGI. 


By  E.  G.  LODEMAN, 

Instructor  in  Horticulture  in  the  Cornell  University. 

With  Preface  by  B.  T.  GALLOWAY. 
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It  is  a  remarkable  confirmation  of  the  common  saying  that  this  is 
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THE   GARDEN-CRAFT   SERIES. 

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PLANT-BREEDING. 

BY 

L.    H.    BAILEY, 

PROFESSOR  OF  HORTICULTURE  IN  THE  CORNELL  UNIVERSITY;  EDITOR  OF 
"  THE  RURAL  SCIENCE  SERIES,"  ETC. 

i2mo.      293  pages.     Cloth.     Price  $1.00. 

CONTENTS. 

LECTURE     I.  The  Fact  and  Philosophy  of  Variation. 

"          II.  The  Philosophy  of  the  Crossing  of  Plants. 

"        III.  Specific  Means  by  which  Garden  Varieties  originate. 

"         IV.  Borrowed  Opinions,  of  B.  Verlot,  E.  A.  Carriere,  and  W.  O. 
Focke,  on  Plant-Breeding. 

"          V.  Detailed  Directions  for  the  Crossing  of  Plants. 
GLOSSARY. 


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The  Horticulturist's  Rule-Book. 

A   COMPENDIUM    OF    USEFUL    INFORMATION    FOR    FRUIT-GROWERS 
TRUCK-GARDENERS,   FLORISTS,  AND  OTHERS. 

By  L.  H.  BAILEY, 

Professor  of  Horticulture  in  the  Cornell  University. 
Fourth  Edition,  with  Many  Additions. 


i2mo.    312  pages.    Limp  Cloth,  75  Cents. 


This  volume  is  the  only  attempt  ever  made  in  this  country  to  codify  and  con- 
dense all  the  scattered  rules,  practices,  recipes,  figures,  and  histories  relating  to 
horticultural  practice,  in  its  broadest  sense.  It  is  much  condensed,  so  that  its 
three  hundred  pages  comprise  several  thousand  facts,  the  greater  part  of  which 
the  busy  man  would  never  possess  if  he  were  obliged  to  search  them  out  in  the 
voluminous  literature  of  recent  years.  All  the  approved  methods  of  fighting 
insects  and  plant  diseases  used  and  discovered  by  all  the  experiment  sta- 
tions are  set  forth  in  shape  for  instant  reference.  This  feature  alone  is 
worth  the  making  of  the  book. 

Amongst  the  additions  to  the  volume,  in  the  present  edition,  are  the  follow- 
ing: A  chapter  upon  "  Greenhouse  and  Window-garden  Work  and  Estimates," 
comprising  full  estimates  and  tables  of  heating  glass-houses,  list  of  plants  for 
forcing,  for  cut  flowers,  for  window-gardens,  aquaria,  and  the  like,  with  tem- 
peratures at  which  many  plants  are  grown,  directions  for  making  potting-earth 
and  of  caring  for  plants,  etc. ;  a  chapter  on  "  Literature,"  giving  classified  lists 
of  the  leading  current  writings  on  American  horticulture,  with  publisher's 
addresses  and  prices,  and  a  list  of  periodicals,  and  directories  of  officers  of 
whom  the  bulletins  of  the  various  experiment  stations  may  be  obtained ;  lists 
of  self-fertile  and  self-sterile  fruits;  a  full  account  of  the  method  of  predicting 
frosts  and  of  averting  their  injuries ;  a  discussion  of  the  aims  and  methods  of 
phenology,  or  the  record  of  climate  in  the  blooming  and  leafing  of  trees ;  the 
rules  of  nomenclature  adopted  by  botanists  and  by  various  horticultural  socie- 
ties; score-cards  and  scales  of  points  for  judging  various  fruits,  vegetables,  and 
flowers;  a  full  statement  of  the  metric  system,  and  tables  of  foreign  money. 


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WORKS    BY    L.    H.    BAILEY. 

PROFESSOR  OF  HORTICULTURE  IN  CORNELL  UNIVERSITY. 


Talks  Afield :  About  Plants  and  the  Science  of  Plants,  pp.  173. 
Illustrated. 

Field  Notes  on  Apple  Culture,    pp.  90.    Illustrated. 

The  Horticulturist's  Rule-Book:  A  Compendium  of  Useful 
Information  for  Fruit-Growers,  Truck-Gardeners,  Florists, 
and  Others.  Fourth  edition,  pp.  312. 

The  Nursery-Book:  A  Complete  Guide  to  the  Multiplication 
and  Pollination  of  Plants,  pp.  304.  Illustrated. 

American  Grape  Training,    pp.  95.     Illustrated. 

Annals  of  Horticulture  in  North  America  for  the  Year  1889  : 
A  Witness  of  Passing  Events  and  a  Record  of  Progress, 
pp.  249.  Illustrated. 

Annals  of  Horticulture  for  1890.  pp.  312.  Illustrated. 
Annals  of  Horticulture  for  1891.  pp.  415.  Illustrated. 
Annals  of  Horticulture  for  1892.  pp.  387.  Illustrated. 

Annals  of  Horticulture  for  1893  :  Comprising  an  Account  of 
the  Horticulture  of  the  Columbian  Exposition,  pp.  179. 
Illustrated. 

Gray's  Field,  Forest,  and  Garden  Botany:  A  Simple  Introduc- 
tion to  the  Common  Plants  of  the  United  States  East  of  the 
looth  Meridian,  Both  Wild  and  Cultivated.  Revised  and 
extended  by  L.  H.  BAILEY,  Editor  of  The  Rural  Science 
Series  of  agricultural  and  horticultural  books. 

Plant-Breeding :  Being  Five  Lectures  upon  the  Amelioration 
of  Domestic  Plants,  pp.  293.  Illustrated. 

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